and top, but close at the feet *, and fo doubled. When paffengers go to bed, their cuftom was to prefent them with a fleeping cup of wine at parting. The country people and merchants used to drink largely; the gentlemen fomewhat more fparingly; yet, the very courtiers, by night meetings, and entertaining any firanger, used to drink healths not without excefs; and, to fpeak truth without offence, the excefs of drinking was then far greater in general among the Scots than the English. Myfelf being at the court, invited by fome gentlemen to fupper; and being forewarned to fear this excefs, would not promife to fup with them, but upon condition that my inviter would be my protection from large drinking, which I was many times forced to invoke, being courteoufly entertained, and much provoked to caroufing; and fo for that time avoided any great intemperance. Remembering this, and having fince obferved, in my converfation at the English court, with the Scots of the better fort, that they spend great part of the night in drinking, not only wine, but even beer; as myfelf cannot accufe them of any great intemperance, fo I cannot altogether free them from the imputation of excefs, wherewith the popular voice chargeth them. "The husbandmen in Scotland, the fervants, and almost all the country, did wear coarse cloth made at home, of grey or fky-colour, and flat blew caps, very broad. The merchants in Cities were attired in English or French cloth, of pale colour, or mingled black and blue. The gentlemen did wear English cloth or filk, or light ftuffs, little or nothing adorned with filk lace, much lefs with lace of filver or gold. And all followed at this time the French fashion, especially in court. Gentlewomen, married, did wear clofe upper bodies, after the German manner, with large whale-bone fleeves, after the The fame prevails univerfally in Scot land at thay. + Morilon's itinerary, part 3. b. 3. c. 4. French manner, fhort cloaks like the Germans, French hoods, and large falling bands about their necks. The unmarried of all forts did go bare-headed, and wear fhort cloaks with most clofe linen fleeves on their arms, like the virgins of Germany. The inferior fort of citizens wives, and the women of the country, did wear cloaks made of a coarse stuff, of two or three colours, in checker work, vulgarly called Plodan ‡. To conclude, in general, they would not at this time be attired after the English fashion, in any fort ; but the men, especially at court, follow the French fashion; and the women, both in court and city, as well in cloaks, as naked heads, and close sleeves on the arms, and all other garments, follow the fashion of the women in Germany." About 20 or 30 years ago, the generality of the people of Edinburgh were in ufe to dine at two o'clock. Shopkeepers were wont to lock their fhops at one for dinner, and open them again at two o'clock; business was attended to by all ranks after dinner: a fimple dinner, confifting of one or two plain dishes, was the ufual fare; wine was feldom or never feen at the tables of the middle ranks. The intercourse of the fexes was kept up chiefly at tea vifits at five o'clock. The people of Edinburgh were exemplary for their regular attendance at church. Public places were little frequented; excepting at the theatre, the middling ranks feldom appeared at any public amufements. Families had, in general, only one or two maid fervants; a livery fervant was, we believe, unknown in the middling flation. The wages of a maid fervant, in general, was from L. 3 to L. 4 a-year, and thefe dreffed in red cloaks or tartan plaids; they feldom wore fhoes but on Sundays. The taverns and lodging-houses were poor and dirty; there was no fuch place as a hotel. i. e. Plaiding, or plaids. At. were very few inftances (if any) of a citizen of Edinburgh keeping his carriage 20 years fince; now there are many. At this period the inhabitants of Edinburgh were greatly hampered for lodging; people of quality and fashion were obliged to fubmit to fmall, dull, and unhealthy habitations; as a proof The lodgings, particularly of the of this, it is only neceflary to mention, New Town, and other newly erected that, even fo far back as the 1783, the buildings, are elegant and healthy. In houfe which, in 1763, the then Lord general, furniture is to be seen correfJaitice Clerk inhabited, was poffeffed ponding to the houfes. Though the by a French teacher; the Lord Prefi- wages of fervants have been much the dent Craigie's houfe by a rouping-wife, fame these twenty years, yet their apor falefwoman of old furniture; and pearance and drefs is greatly improved ; Lord Dunmore's houfe was left by a now, perhaps, thefe are on the other chairman for want of accommodation; extreme. Till within these few years, and a houfe lately occupied by one of umbrellas were unknown. the prefent Lords of Seffion, is now poffeffed by a taylor. LEITH. LEITH, being the fea-port of Edinburgh, falls next to be noticed. It is a populous, and thriving town, fuppofed to contain about 14,000 inhabitants ; but the houfes are in general indifferent, and the ftreets narrow and dirty. The harbour is formed by a ftone pier, which has been lately much improved. When finifhed, according to the plan lately made out, the harbour will be useful and commodious. Ships can only enter the harbour at full tide; but the roads of Leith, afford most excellent anchoring ground at all times, for fhips of any fize. Of late the change is alfo, in every other refpect, remarkable. The tables of the middling ranks not only exhibit varieties of difhes, but wines are almost universally drank; and when a party goes abroad to dine, there they alfo fpend the afternoon. It is much to be regretted that the ladies are fo much neglected in thefe parties; the gentlemen, in general, preferring the bottle to the drawing-room. That foftnefs and elegance of manners, which can only be acquired in the company of ladies, is much on the decline. The hour of dinner now is 4, and often 5 o'clock, and business is but feldom attended in the evening. Sunday is now the principal day for feeing company; of course the churches are but badly attended. The drefs of people of fathion was coftly and elegant; it was account ed abfolutely neceffary to be in drefs at a public place. This part of ceremony is much given up, and people go to affemblies, plays, and concerts, much in the fame way as they go to dinner. The ladies, ftill, however, attend more to drefs; many good confequences might be figured to enfue, were the Ships gentlemen equally attentive to this part Sloops of ceremony. Hofpitality is a leading Tons 3244 26,170 75,809 105,223 feature of the inhabitants. The lower During the fame period, there came into. ranks may, with juftice, be charged with Leith harbour, from ports within the Firth of Forth, 393 veffels with coals, meafuring intemperance, and this is much owing to the cheap price of whify. There 14,956 tons, and the fame number of veels with other goods, measuring 16,139 tons.* Befides a very frequent intercourfe with London, the trade of Leith is to the Baltic, to the different ports of Germany in the caft feas, and to Holland; to Spain, France, Portugal, and the Mcditerranean, for wines, fruits, &c. and for fome years paft, the West India trade has been fuccefsfully attempted*. The making of glass, foap, and carpet * From the Statistical Account, the trade of Leith, from the 14th November 1786 to the 13th November 1787, appears to be as follows: Brigs Scotch. Total. 17 27 22 92 12: 282 1407 1708 1) ing, are the chief fpecies of manufac- with iron and fulphur, is light upon the ture. In Leith there are two banks; ftomach, and highly diurctic. the Leith Banking Company, and a branch of the British Linen Company. The fortifications erected in the time Oliver Cromwell, in North Leith, ed the citadel, for the purpofe of deferding the harbour, were demolished at the reftoration of Charles II. Of late, However, a very elegant battery has been bilt for the defence of the fhipping, a ale to the weft of the citadel, on a riIng ground, which fully commands the fatrance of the harbour. RESTALRIG. About a mile to the east of Edinbrgh, in a hollow plain, ftands the ruinous church of Reftalig. It was founded by James III, but, at the Reformation, the General Affembly ordered it to be demolished; notwithftanding this, the remains of a beautiful Gothic window, and part of the walls, remain. In the middle of the churchyard, there is a fpacious vaulted maufoleum, with yew trees growing upon its top, which belongs to the Earl of Moray. The Water of Leith is the only river in the vicinity of Edinburgh. It is but a fmali ftream, which empties itfelf in- The Frith of Forth contributes much to the Frith of Forth, and forms at to the riches and comfort, as well as Leith a pretty good harbour for the fhip- the beauty of this part of the island. A ping. On its banks are erected the mills communication being now formed with which manufacture flour, &c. for the the western parts, by means of the great city; alfo a very extenfive diftillery for canal, Leith, the port of Edinburgh, making whifky. There is no tract of has now become a great fea-port. The country, of equal dimenfions, in Scot- Frith affords fih in coufiderable abun land, where there is fo little running dance. Of late, the benings have water. In the bed of the river, a little paid a vifit to it, and afford a cheap below the mills, we have a ftriking ex- fupply of food to the poor, as well as ample of the rents or fiffures in the ftrata of one being cemented and filled up It is a vein of whinstone near 3 feet wide, traverf ing the horizontal ftrata in the bed of the river, which appears to have been introduced in a fluid ftate, the rents of the frata admitting the 'quid mafs of whin tone to flow in and unite them. with extranecus matter. ST BERNARD'S WELL. Many years ago, a mineral water vas difcovered to iffte from the rock upen the fide of the Water of Leith, a Idealove Stockbridge. It was inCofed with a tone building, but had Ieen demolished by the feats of the Iver. The late Lord Gardenflone, thinking Liebly of the quality of the water, and finding relief from drinking i, caufed a very elegant temple to be erected over it, which contains a ftatue Hygeia, but which is too large for its fituation. This water is impregnated This circumstance called forth the fol. wing epigram. "Heu! fuge fatales hauftus, fuge virus aquarum, Fer facra, telluris fic quoque fecit Herus." drain; decline, The Lord erector's regimen be thine, a a lucrative branch of traffic to the merchart. The islands in this part of the Forth are Inchkeith, three miles from Leith harbour; Inchcolm and Mickry, about four miles to the weft; and Cmond Island, nearly the fame diftance. On the shores of the Firth are found fpecimens of iron ftone, particulariy feptaria, jafpers, agates, flint, fhor, and zeolite. INCHKEITH here: it is of a greenish colour, with a dufky line, and takes a fine polifh. Agates, in detached nodules, are found on the fhores of this ifland; but none have been discovered in the rock. Asphaltum, or Jew's pitch, is found inclofed in fhiftus, in the fiffures of the rock. The rocks on both fides of the island abound with fhorl. The most remarkable production is a ftratum of flint, on the fouth weft fide of the ifland. It lies Is a defolate ifland. In ancient under a bed of limeftone, and appears times it was used as a place of ba- to have been once in a liquid ftate; for nifhment, as appears from the follow- in many places, we find madrepores and ing order of the Privy Council to the marine fhells inclofed in the flint, themMagifirates of Edinburgh, in Septem- felves converted to a flint, and retainber 1497: "That ali manner of per- ing their fhapes entire. We believe fons being within the freedom of this many naturalifts deny the existence of a burgh, who are infected of the faid ftratum of flint, but this affords an excontagious plague, cailed the Grandgore, ample to the contrary. The fact is of devoid, rid, and pafs furth of this confequence, too, in the great difpute town, and compeer upon the fands of as to the formation of filicious and calLeith, at ten hours before noon, and careous matter, by equeous or igneous. there fhall have and find boats ready in the harbour, ordered to them by the officers of this burgh, readily furnished, with victuals, to have them to the Inch, (land of Inchkeith), and there to remain till God provide for their health." A fortification was erected upon it a bout 1550. A confiderable part of the fortalice, or calle, remains on the fummit of the island, upon the north end of which the arms of Scotland are to be feen. Near this is a good spring of fresh water. Several fheep are annually fed on the island. The eaft fide of this ifland prefents fomething like bafaltic columns; they are of the moorítone kind, minutely mixed with calcarious This, too, is a small ifland, chiefly fpar. Many of the maffes found here compofed of rock, and lies within a have the appearance of petrified wood, mile of the Fyfe coaft. There is a fine and take a fine polifh.. It has very pro- ruin of its once famous monaftery ftill bably undergone a ftrong heat. There to be feen. There is at prefent a is alfo plenty of limestone on the island; battery erecting on this ifland. This externally it resembles afbestus. A monaftery was founded by Alexander I. ftriated white calcareous fpar is also in 1123. It is reported, that this found here, chiefly on the weft fide of the ifland; alfo madrepore and coralmar ble. Jaíper is likewife to be met with This is particularly defcribed by Dr Futton, in the Edinburgh Phil. Tran. vol. 1. folution. For here are found fhells of the most delicate texture, converted to flint, and their fhapes unimpaired. It is well known, too, that in many fpecimens found in the chalk hills in England, the fhells, though calcareous in the outfide, are filled with flint within; even thofe of the most delicate ftructure, as the fea-egg. It is difficult to conceive, how fuch changes could be effected by heat, and yet thefe delicate fubftances enabled to refift it. In any experiments we can inftitute, fhells and fuch bodies are very foon converted to lime by a moderate heat. INCHCOLM. Prince, when croffing the Firth, was overtaken by a violent ftorm, and driven upon Inchcolm. Its only inhabitant was a poor hermit, who gave him a very hofpitable reception, and enter CRAMOND ISLAND. tained the King for three days, while of broken rocks and precipices, formftorm-bound, with the milk of his cow, ing a fort of amphitheatre of folid rock, and a few fhell-fish. His Majefty, in whofe fummit is 550 feet in height. This gratitude to the faint to whom he attri- rock is used for the pavement of the buted his fafety, here founded a mo- ftreets of London and Edinburgh. Benaftery of Auguftines, and dedicated it tween these two hills, there is a reclufe to St Columba. The rock of this valley. Immediately upon defcending ifland is chiefly a coarse whin ftone. into this valley, the view of Edinburgh The rock of which the greatest part of is totally loft; the imperial profpect of this ifland is compofed, as well as that the city and caftle, which these rocks of Inchkeith, is fimilar to that on which in a manner overhang, is intercepted the Caffle of Edinburgh ftands. They by Salisbury Craigs. Seldom are huare all exceedingly hard, and admit of man beings to be met in this lonely vale, a fine polish; particularly that on the or any creature to be feen, but the sheep fouth fide of thefe rocks. On the caft feeding on the mountain, and the hawks fide, there is feen black fhorl, project- and ravens winging their flight among ing from a decayed ground of the whin- the rocks. This valley has much the Itone. In many places, fiffures of cal- appearance of a crater, long ago filled careous fpar interfect the rock. up in part, the weft fide, which forms Salisbury Craigs, having yielded, and Cramond Island, nearly oppofite to funk down on one fide. There are a the former, lies within a mile of the confiderable variety of rock plants to be fouth fhore. It is a flat ifland, and found on thefe hills, but we fhall only confiderably larger than Inchcolm. It take notice of that remarkable appearis famous as a rabbit warren. Both it ance, defcribed by Dr Hutton in the and Inchcolm have been occupied, of Edinburgh Phil. Tran. vol. 1. Tolate, as pafture ground for particular wards the top of the hill, and furroundbreeds of theep imported to this coun- ing a confiderable part of it, there aptry by the British Wool Society. pears fomething refembling the withered To return to the hills. The en- grafs of a foot-path: The breadth of virons of Edinburgh are perhaps the this ftripe is from 9 to 12 inches; the moft picturefque in the world. The length is confiderable, 100 or 200 yards, appearance of the Frith, with the extending from the fouth-eaft fide of variegated face of the country, have a the fouthmost hill through a hollow, very ftriking effect. All travellers feem and ascending obliquely the fhoulder of to agree, that the view from the Cal- the fummit of Arthur's Seat, on the ton-hill yields to none in Europe, if the fouth-eaft fide. In the fpring, about banks of the Lake of Geneva be ex- the month of April, the grafs begins cepted. The largest hill in the imme- gradually to wither and decay. It is diate vicinity of Edinburgh, is Arthur's perfectly dead in a little time, that is, Seat. This bill has a broad bafe, but a week or two, and then appears white near the fummit it rifes to a conical top. or withered. Similar appearances exIts height from the base is 700 feet, and tend from the fouth fide of the fummit 796 above the level of the fea. Adjoin to the north fide of the hill, half way ing to Arthur's Scat is Salisbury Craigst. down the plain; but none at the bottom. Thefe prefent to the city an awful front Parallel to each of those tracts of withered grafs, there is another perfect noble So called, after Arthur, the British. prince who, in the end of the 6th century, ly fimilar, but of a black colour, as if defeated the Saxons in that neighbourhood. + This has its name from the Earl of Salifbury, who accompanied Edward III. in an expedition against the Scots. VOL. LVIII. made the year before, the grafs having taken root. This distance of the old from the new track, in general, is but a few inches. In fome places, Dr A a Hutton |