cultivated. The country here is beautifully variegated with wood and water*. In the eastern extremity of the county lies rish is a rich loamy foil, and is well The caftle, fituated on the weft fide of the harbour, is a venerable ruin, but the date of its building is uncertain; it stands within fea-mark, and before the use of artillery, muft have been impregnable. It was to it that the Earl of Bothwell fled, leaving the unfortunate Mary in the hands of the affociated Lords at Carberry-hill. The famous defeat of the Scottish army, under General Lefly, by Cromwell, was at Daverhill, near Dunbar. In this parifh there is plenty of Lime. Near the Harbour there is a rock of martial jafper, which takes an exceeding fine polifh. Some beautiful pebbles have been occafionally found on the fhore. The gentlemen's feats in this parish are Broxmouth, belonging to the Duke of Roxburgh; Lochend, to Sir Peter Warrender ; Ninewar, to Mr Hamilton; Belton, to Mr Hay; and Winterfield to Mr Anderson. OLDHAMSTOCKS, 6 miles east from Dunbar, extending about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 3 in breadth, and containing about 500 inhabitants. The country here is broken and hilly; on the coaft the foil is pretty fertile, but barren in the higher parts. On the coaft there is a confiderable fishing, as the ocean here furnishes, in general, confiderable quantities of haddocks, cod, herrings, and lobsters. The Caftle of Dunglafs, where now ftands a good modern house erected for the refidence of Sir James Hall, famous in Scottifh hiftory, is in the parish. 7 PRESTON-KIRK lies about 5 miles from Haddington, on the London road by Berwick. It extends about 7 miles from north to fouth, and 4 from east to weft, and contains nearly 1200 inhabitants +. The river Tyne runs thro' the parish, and empties itfelf into the fea, about 3 miles below the church. The country is finely variegated, and the fields very fertile; the prevalent foil being a rich clayey mould. Smeaton, an elegant commodious modern house, the property of G. Buchan Hepburn, Efq; is the only one of note in this parish. DUNBAR parish extends about nine miles in length, along the coaft, in breadth it is only two, and contains 3700 inhabitants. The foil is a rich light dry mould, perhaps the most fertile in Scotland, and, in general, it is also the earlieft. In this fituation, and having the advantage of abundance of fea-ware and lime for manure, the yearly rent is very high, the burgh acres give about five guineas, and the farms are rented at from 30s. to 2 guineas; the rent of the whole parish is about L. 8oco Sterling. The country here is finely adorned with gentlemen's feats, and the town of Dunbar is one of the pleasanteft and neatest in Scotland. Situated on the German ocean, it has long been a place of trade, particularly WHITEKIRK and TYNNINGHAM. The herring and whale fifh- Thefe united parishes extend from S. ings have also been long a part of the to N. 6 miles, and from E. to W. Occupation of the inhabitants. Dun- about 4; and contain about 1000 inhabar, at a very early period, was a place bitants. The country is on the whole of firength; but there was no harbour for fhips till Oliver Cromwell began the conftruction of the prefent one, which is moftly formed out of the folid rock. for corn. This parish contains about 4990 acres, L. 4700 Sterling. the rent of which may be computed to be Mr John Walker of Beanfton, in this parish, had the honour of setting the first example of fallowing ground, in this part of the ifland. flat flat here, and the foil a rich loam, on in Scotland which are frequented by a gravelly bottom. Whitekirk hill rifes the Solan Goofe. The Bafs is alfo to a very moderate height, only afford- frequented by numberless other birds of ing an elevation for a beautiful and ex- various denominations. It is acceffible tenfive view. The most remarkable only on one fide by a narrow paffage, thing in this parish is the very extenfive and there is a well of fresh water near and thriving woods of Tynningham, its top. It had been formerly inhabited, planted the beginning of this century by and during the reigns of Charles II. Thomas, the 6th Earl of Haddington. and James II it was made a state priAlthough planted upon barren Links, fon; fome ruins of houfes are ftill to the very brink of the ocean mark, ftanding. Now the only inhabitants they have grown with uncommon vi- are a few sheep. gour. Tynningham houfe is beautifully fituated at the eftuary of the river Tyne, Forth, and extends almost 6 miles. and the gardens were amongst the earlieft in the country in the modern ftyle. Newbeith, the refidence of Mr Baird, is alfo in this parish. DIRLETON lies upon the Frith of fquare. The lower ground upon the coaft, confifting of about 3000 acres, is links; but inland to the fouth, there are about 5000 acres extremely fertile. The grofs rent is about 6000l. Sterling; the number of inhabitants is about 1200. The only feat in the parish is that of thirds of the whole. There is ftill the romantic ruin of an old castle standing on the east end of the village. NORTH BERWICK. Situated near the mouth of the Frith of Forth, it extends along the coaft about 3 miles, being in breadth from N. to S. nearly Mr Nifbet, the proprietor of about two24 miles, containing about 1300 inhabitants. The whole parish, containing nearly 4000 acres, is arable, being a rich loamy foil, with the exception of ABERLADY parish lies alfo on the the hill, and fome linky ground; and fhore, weftward. The flat part is, in is well cultivated. The rent varies general, light and fandy, but farther infrom 16s. or 17s. per acre, to near 31. land, where the land rifes, it is rich and The ruins of the castle of Tantallan fertile. The parish contains 800 fouls; stand about 2 miles from North the village of Aberlady 386. Berwick, it was once a place of great strength. The beautiful conic hill called North-Berwick Law, and which is feen at fo great a distance, rifes from a level plain to about 400 feet, and overlooks a very fertile country. The famous fea-rock Bafs lies about a mile from the fhore*. This rock, and Ailfa and St Kilda, are the only places "A nimble courier The Earl of Wemyss is building a very ele gant houfe at Gosford in this parish. The only other feat of any note is Balincrieff the property of Lord Elibank. The foil is, in ge ATHOLSTON FORD. This parish is nearly an oblong square, 4 miles long and from 2 to 3 broad, containing about 4000 acres. neral, a rich loam, and very productive, though, as in other places of a fimilar extent, there are partial exceptions, yet it has all been occafionally ploughed *. From the fmall range of Garleton hills, which bound this parish on the fouth, there is an extenfive plain 4 miles broad, having a fmall and gradual inclination to the fea, and containing a track of country not inferior in beauty and fertility to any in Scotland. "The Grave," This part of the country is thus defcrib- In this parish there are abount 950 in that eastward of the burgh, that Parliament was conveened July 7th 1548, during the fiege of the town, which gave confent to Queen Mary's marriage with the Dauphin, and to her being educated at the court of France. Every Friday there is at Haddington one of the beit that much admired poem, was written by Mr Blair, minifter of this parish, and father to R. Blair, Efq; his Majefty's Solicitor General for Scotland. It is well known that the author of the Tragedy of Douglas was feveral years pafhere. Gilmerton, the property of Sir G. Kinloch, is the only feat of note corn-markets in Scotland. There has in this parish. been no coal discovered in this parith,, though there is abundance of fandftone, and both lime and coal within 4 miles of Haddington. HADDINGTON, the county town of East Lothian, lies 17 miles east of Edinburgh, and is the firft ftage on the great poft road from thence to London. GLADSMUIR, about twelve miles from It is a neat well built town, fituated Edinburgh on the ealt road to London. on the river Tyne. The greatest extent The ground here forms a fort of ridge, of the parish is nearly 6 miles both ways. gradually floping towards the Frith of It contains 12,000 acres of land, and a- Forth on the north, and the river Tyne bout 4000 inhabitants. The ground is on the fouth; the fummit of which is very muirish toward the western part, a stiff barren clay, but becomes fertile though the whole parish is arable, ex- as you defcend on either fide, pantiqua cepting a few particular fpots of little larly on the north. This parish com extent. The greater part of this parish prehends about 6000 acres, one half is well inclosed, and in a high state of of which only is in tillage. The rent cultivation. The real rent is about is about 4500l. fterling, and it contains, 8oool. Sterling; the ground near the 1380 inhabitants. There is great a town fets from 59s, to 31. per acre. bundance of coal in this quarter. This The town is very ancient; the parish parifh gave birth to the noted George church is a venerable ftructure, and Heriot, founder of the hofpital; and appears to have been built in the 12th Dr William Robertfon, the hiftorian of or 13th century. It is only in the weft Scotland, and Principal of the Univer end that worship is performed; all the fity of Edinburgh, was paftor of it, and reft is a ruin. In a corner of this ftruc- compofed his History of Scotland while ture there is the burying place of the fa- here. mily of Maitland, who for many ages TRANENT is about 8 miles from Epoffeffed Lethington, now the feat of dinburgh, alfo on the East London road; Lord Blantyre. In this aifle there are the length is about 6, and the breadth feveral marble ftatues of the Dukes of about 3 miles, containing nearly 2,496 Lauderdale, as large as life, lying in inhabitants. The whole of this parifh beds of ftate. There are feveral agree- may be reckoned arable, though part is able feats in this parish; the most remarkable is Amisfield, belonging to the Earl of Wemyfs: In the gallery there are many fine, paintings, by the first mafters, particularly Vertumnus and Pomona, by Rubens, valued at 800 guineas,The beautiful eftates of confiderable coalieries in this sparifh Adderstone, Letham, and Clerkington, are all in the immediate vicinity of the town. The famous John Knox the Reformer was a native of this parifh the houfe where he was born in Gif fordgate, is Aill thown. It was at the Abbey of Haddington, about a mile ftill lying in a wasted state. The low ground towards the fea lets. at from 40s. to 50s. per acre, and the higher ground, which is a clayey foil, at from 15s. to 208. the whole producing about 5,570l. per annum. There are three the largest feam is 9 feet, and lies about 30 fathoms below the furface. Not far from Tranent ftand the ruins of Seton-houfe, the once princely refidence of the Earls of Wintown.com bat erv (To be continued)bas cinsin 66 MINUTES OF AGRICULTURE. FROM SURVEY OF THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS," BY MR MARSHALL. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 329. MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES. Under the feudal fyftem.-The ma nagement of estates, as landed property, could be but little attended to the poffeffion itself depended too often on force of arms, rather than on legal right, and it was more neceffary to train the tenantry to war than to rural improvements. On the large eftates of the Chieftains, an officer under the name of Chamberlain, was at once minister, general, and manager of the estate. Under thefe circumftances, and particularly in the times of difturbance," the tenants might be faid to be in full poffeffion of their refpective holdings; neither their chieftain nor his chamberlain dared to remove them, nor even to check their evil practices ;-fuch as cutting down timber and other wood; not only for building and implements, but for its bark, (it being recently the practice for every man to tan leather for his own confumption,) leaving the difbarked wood perhaps to rot in the place of its growth; circumstances in themfelves fufficient to account for the decay of forests, and the prefent naked nefs of the country, in places remote from the refidences of chieftains; where respect, if not fear, might check fuch baneful depredations. Nor, under thefe circumftances, could any plan of improvement be profecuted, even during times of greater tranquillity, for the length of the day of peace was uncertain; and a good foldier, or a fool-hardy defperado, was of more value than a good husbandman. Indeed the works of agriculture in those war like times, were neceffarily carried on in a great measure by the women: a circumftance which accounts for their prefent habits of labour and induftry. And another neceffary confequence ef thofe extraordinary circumftances was ftill more fubverfive of improvements, and more lasting in its effects. The farms were divided and fubdivided VOL. LVIIL to make room for a greater number of foldiers, and were thus frittered down to the atoms in which they are now found, and the country burdened with a load of tenantry, which has hitherto been confidered as a bar, even under a change of circumstances, to the profecution of any rational plan of management. The larger eftates are divided into Officiaries, each confifting of an ancient barony, cr of an arbitrary modern divifion, better fuited to the prefent circumstances of the estate. On the banks of Loch Tay, these officiaries contain from one to three fquare miles of valley lands each, with their proportion of hill, comprifing from ten to twenty "towns" or farms; each farm, or petty town-fhip, being fubdivided into farmlets; generally from two to fix or eight in number; or in fome few inftances the farms remain entire, or have been brought back to their original entirely. In each of thefe officiaries refides a Ground Officer, generally a principal tenant, whofe office is fomewhat fimilar to that of the bailiff of an English manor, but more extenfive and more ufeful: he not only diftributes orders or notices, from the lord or factor to the tenants, but fees the fervices performed (from which he is himself exempt,) the roads kept in repair, the removal of tenants, the fettling of difputes, the forwarding of dispatches, &c. Alfo, in each officiary are Birley men, fworn appraisers or valuers; who are called in by the ground officer (at the request of the manager) to, fettle difputes between the landlord and the tenants, or between tenant and tenant. Thefe petty inquefts are extremely convenient upon an extensive estate, and might be well introduced (in their prefent, or in an improved form) upon the larger eftates of the island in general, The feveral officers being refident within their respective officiaries, know the 3G parties parties and the matters in dispute more State of Hufbandry-After the curintimately than any large proprietor, or fory view which I took of the Highlands any agent of a large eftate poffibly can: in the fummer of 1792, I left it with iand if a manager diftinguish properly be- deas rather favourable to its ftate of cultween the useful information they are tivation. The corn, before I reached capable of giving him, and the partia- this part of the Highlands, had grown lities which they muft neceffarily form tall enough to hide weeds; the braes among the tenantry, he may, on many were green, and through the moistnefs occafions, render them highly beneficial of the feafon full of grafs; the sheep were to the due performance of his charge, upon the hills; and the cattle which I which, where the happinefs of thoufands faw were full of condition. depends more or lefs on his conduct, is a thing of no light importance. Tenancy. The nature of the hold, or occupancy of the Highland tenants, is principally that of tenant at will, holding from year to year. If leafes For tacks, as they are called, be granted for a term of years, the term is generally one or more nineteen years, a number which one would think nothing but caprice would have rendered cuftomary. Life leafes, too, are granted, or have been granted, in Scotland; perhaps for three lives and a nineteen years, or three nineteen years and a life. Rent. The rate of rent varies much on different eftates. The fmaller eftates may have been raised to fomething near their real value but the larger, I believe, remain at rents much below the real value of their respective foils; even when the difadvantages of fituation and climate are taken into the estimate. Nevertheless, it appears equally evident, that while the prefent state of things remains, while the holdings remain fo fmall, fo inconvenient, fo expofed and fo uncertain as to poffeffion as they are at préfent, eftates in general may be faid to be at rack rent. No man could wish to fee the occupiers of lands in a lower ftate than are at prefent the fmaller tepants of the Highlands; indeed, were their holdings free they could not through their means enjoy the common comforts of life equally with the day la bourers of other districts. Formerly the rents were paid in kind, as grain, poultry, &c.; and fill what are called "victual or rents in grain," are paid, but " money rents" are becoming yearly more prevalent. But in the more deliberate furvey of last year, fresh facts arofe, efpecially in the fpring feafon. In the latter end of April, and the early part of May, the country exhibited the most defolate and diftreffing picture. Not the fainteff appearance of greennefs, nor even blade of pafturable herbage to be detected, ekcept in the parks and paddocks of men of fortune, or the farms of the few fuperior managers; and there the clover and rye-grafs were already in full bite (a most interesting fact!) while the country at large, under the old fyftem of management, lay a mere wafte; nothing to be feen but ftones and dry blades of couch grafs, or other pallid remains of unpafturable herbage; the pasture and meadow lands gnawed to the quick, and ftrewed with the dead carcafes of theep, lying a difgrace and nuifance to the country: their wool wafting away with their carcafes, as if their owners were afhamed to claim it. The cattle, too, were in a starving ftate: fome actually ftarved; others barely able to crawl out of the way of the paffenger: calves, and perhaps a few young fheep, nibbling off the feedling blades of oats; and the most active of the cattle running after the plough and harrow, ftriving for the roots of the weeds turned up, their almost only means of fubfitence. But the feafon had been more than ufually fevere, and the deaths and diftreffes fomewhat more than is ufually sesiperienced. ! |