Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

and beautiful scenery, unequalled but in some of the most mountainous of the Swiss cantons. Farm-houses, corn and pasture fields appearing above the clouds; elegant countryseats embellishing the banks of alpine streams; magnificent forests clothing the sides of hills, whose summits glittered with eternal snow. Such were the prospects which delighted the travellers. Neatness, exemplary cleanliness, rustic plenty, exuberant hospitality, health, tranquillity, and independence, characterized the interior of their dwellings, and their fortunate possessors. Tronyem, formerly the metropolis of Norway, is a large, handsome, well-built, commercial city; the public edifices are numerous; society on the most liberal footing. The situation of the town is wonderfully picturesque, standing on the side of a bay, almost surrounded by mountains. Notwithstanding its high latitude, 63°, the natural coldness of the air is so modified by its maritime situation, that plums, cherries, and apples are produced plentifully, and of excellent quality; in this respect, the western parts of Norway possess a decided advantage over the northern part of Sweden, under the same latitude, where horticulture is almost `unknown; provisions of all kinds are excellent, but not very cheap. The people are naturally brave, and enthusiastically fond of independence, eq. ally disliking the Danes and Swedes; the hope of one day rescuing their country from the Danish yoke, and rising to the rank of a separate nation, cheered their minds, and was the burthen of their most favourite national song. No impartial person who reads what Dr. Clarke has written on this subject, but must sympathize in the regret he expresses, that it should have been thought necessary by the framers of the partition treaties of Vienna, to amalgamate the Norwegians with the Swedes. It is consolatory, however, to find that the present king of Sweden has had the moderation and good sense to respect the rights and liberties of the Norwegians, and so to administer his government as to afford no ground for the imputation of partiality or tyranny. We may also remark, that the union of the two nations under the sway of the same monarch, effectually protects the Norwegians

from the disastrous consequences of an invasion by land. Let us, therefore, hope, that however questionable the means by which the change has been accomplished, it may ultimately produce a cordial integration of feelings and identity of interests between the two most gallant and virtuous nations of the continent of Europe.

We cannot follow Dr. Clarke through the interesting details of his journey to Christianstadt. Let it suffice to observe, that he crossed the famous mountain of Dofrefield, one of the loftiest in the Alpine chain, exceeding 8000 feet in height, by a difficult and most romantic pass, about midway up the mountain. The same sublime and magnificent scenery, the same indications of rural abundance, with simple and virtuous manners, noble and manly independence of character, every where accompanying and cheering his route.

The copious analysis we have given of the volume of Dr. Clarke's Travels in Scandinavia, and the limits to which, in a work of this kind, we are necessarily restricted, prevent our bestowing upon the remaining works of this distinguished tourist the attention which is due to their sterling merit, and which in justice to the author, and a due regard to the entertainment of our readers, we should have been most happy to have extended. His travels in Russia present a striking contrast to those in Scandinavia, not greater, perhaps, than might be expected from the opposite manners, genius, and condition of the people. It was equally unlucky for Dr. Clarke, and unpropitious to the opinion he had formed of the Russian nation, that he traversed the mighty Muscovite empire at a time when a lunatic tyrant (the emperor Paul) sported with the properties and the interests of his people, and when it appeared to be a favourite maxim of his policy, (if that term could be applied to the furious excesses of a lawless power as inconsiderately as cruelly exercised) to make his subjects retrograde, by swift gradations of suffering and debasement, to the savage condition from which it required all the courage and all the talent of the great Peter to awaken their Petersburg was the first town he visited; this great metropolis, a durable monument of the powerful genius of Peter, has been so fully described by former travellers, as well as by subsequent tourists, that it appears hardly necessary to relate what it has been already so fully and so ably represented. Petersburg is the Venice of the north; constructed on piles, it rose like an exhalation from the marshes of the Neva. The public buildings, the arsenal, the palace, the quays, are superb, worthy to embellish the capital of the most extensive, although not the most powerful, empire of the earth. Moscow, the ancient residence of the czars, a wilderness of palaces, and a chaos of hovels, was the next city visited by Dr. Clarke. Its appearance was equally singular, picturesque, and sublime; embosoned in forests, magnificent gilded domes rising above the tops of lofty trees, presented to the eye of an English traveller a resemblance of Oxford, but upon a scale incomparably more splendid. Here were the palaces of the most powerful of the Russian nobility, who felt a pride in embellishing them with all that was costly, precious, and rare. Here, in barbaric pomp, they are described as spending in thoughtless prodigality the immense treasures which the fatal system of slavery enabled them to exact from debased, indigent, demoralized vassals. The cathedral, the kremlin, the memorials of the Greek superstition, the various assemblages, from every part of Russia, of individuals of the innumerable tribes who crouch beneath the sceptre of the czars; a crowd of foreigners from different European and Asiatic nations, all habited in their peculiar garbs, and speaking their own languages; the extraordinary length of the streets; the extremes of oriental splendor and squalid indigence, brought into direct and immediate parallelism, constituted a picture so striking, unlike what any other city had at any time exhibited. Such was Moscow! From its ashes is springing up a phenix; a town which, it is said, will eclipse its venerable predecessor, emulate its magnificence, and avoid its imperfections. From Moscow Dr. Clarke proceeded to the Crimea; the route lay for many hundred miles through

ancestors.

[ocr errors]

vast and verdant plains, producing the finest pasture, and where cultivated, yielding immense crops of wheat and other kinds of grain; the climate throughout all the southern provinces of Russia is favourable to the culture of fruit-trees, and at a distance from the sea and the marshy banks of rivers, eminently wholesome. An escort of Cossacks attended the vehicle of the traveller. On more than one occasion Dr. Clarke encountered wandering Calmucks. This singular race possess the same manners as their ancestors, who under Attila, Zinghis Khan, and Tamerlane, occupied and desolated the immense region of Middle Asia, and the eastern parts of Europe. Ferocious in demeanour, horrid in aspect, obscenely unclean in their persons, and disgusting to an excess in their diet, which consists chiefly of tainted horseflesh, they are notwithstanding an acute, and even a learned people. The Cossacks are described by the Doctor as being in their own territories industrious, intelligent, and far more civilized than the Russians. The tenure of their military service exalts them almost to the rank of freemen, and, although hated by the Russians, they are greatly superior in morals as well as in genius. Every part of the Crimea was carefully explored by Dr. Clarke and his companion. It is represented as possessing a temperate, yet unhealthy climate, and in those parts which admit of cultivation, exuberantly rich. Its ancient possessors, the Crim Tartars, are a polished race of men, whose taste for, and proficiency in, the useful and ornamental arts, is shewn in the number and beauty of their edifices, public and private, as well as in the diligent cultivation of their lands. At the time Dr. Clarke visited the country, the blind rapacity of the Russian soldiers, combined with the insolence of their officers, had reduced the Tartars to poverty and despair. The enlightened administration of the Duke of Richlieu, has, we believe, changed the aspect of this region, so celebrated in classic lore'; and with security of person and property, trade has revived, and the fields once more teem with abundance.

Having completed his inspection of the Crimea, Dr. Clarke embarked in a vessel bound for Constantinople, and narrowly escaped shipwreck in the Black Sea. Nothing can be more dissimilar than the appearance of this famous city, as seen from the Dardanelles, and the aspect of the houses and streets when minutely examined. The universe does not afford a nobler spectacle than the distant view of Constantinople. Perhaps no metropolis, upon a close inspection, is so inconvenient, dirty, irregular, and mean; the streets are narrow, and defiled with various and accumulated impurities; the capital of a barbarous people, its institutions are barbarous also. The greater part of the city being built of wood, destructive fires are frequent; the blind fatality of the Turks aggravates the evil. Beyond any other situation favourable for carrying on an universal commerce, industry, uncertain of preserving the fruits of its labours, is paralyzed at the outset. Possessing one of the finest climates, and contiguous to one of the most fertile soils in the world, with abundant materials for costly and curious manufactures, the scourge of a government which is alike imbecile, corrupt, and oppressive, joined to the constitutional indolence of the Turks, counteracts the blessings of nature. An inborn enemy, the Greek, the despised Giaour, the Jew, the cunning and indefatigable Frank, monopolize almost all the trade carried on in the city.

Dr. Clarke, availing himself of an opportunity very rarely afforded to Europeans, and in his case seized at the imminent peril of his life, inspected almost every part of the female seraglio. Another adventure, as bold as fortunate, beheld, unseen, the favourite sultanas of the Grand Seignior, as well as his highness's private apartments. The habits of the ladies were gorgeously splendid; the rooms gaudily embellished with gilding and paintings in the Turkish style; but the furniture, with some exceptions, comparatively mean and badly preserved; taste and regularity appeared to be

unknown.

Quitting Constantinople, after a short stay, Dr. Clarke spent some time in exploring the plain of Troy. His observations on the antiquities and localities of this interesting territory are as important as curious. We regret that we

« ZurückWeiter »