the very streets of Florence, they will challenge one another, and improvise sometimes as rapidly as those in set companies. Their most common subject is the commendation of their several mistresses, or two shepherds contending for the same, or a debate which is the best poet. They often put one in mind of Virgil's third, fifth, and seventh eclogues, or what he calls the contention of his shepherds, in alternate verse; and by the way, Virgil's shepherds also seem sometimes to be tied down by the thought expressed in the preceding stanza, as these extempore poets are by the preceding rhyme." From Fraser's Magazine. LIFE AND MANNERS IN PERSIA.* THIS is preeminently the age of tourist- Scotch terrier who bore the endearing ism, journalism, diaryism, and memoir-name of Crab, and who, as frequently ism; a writing epidemic is stalking happens with ladies' pets, got her husband through the length and breadth of the into some difficulty in Germany, from not land, and every body seems suffering from having his name and address on his collar. a kind of literary pleurisy, for which the The party started early in August, 1849, only cure they seek is the indulgence of the and by the end of the month found thempublic, whose patience, it can not be denied, selves on the Polish frontier. The Russian they frequently tax most severely. The railways appear to travel at the twelveWestern World has furnished a fruitful mile-an-hour pace of our old fast Brighton field in go-a-headism, expectoration, and coaches, which Lady Sheil attributes to niggers. The Eastern has provided scarce- their burning wood; but a trip across the ly less abundantly its contribution of shahs, Atlantic would have removed that false pachas, nabobs, and harems. impression. As some atonement for their We must now introduce to the reader a tortoise pace, they are remarkably safe, lady from the East in whose society we an accident being all but unknown. At have spent a pleasant hour or two, and Warsaw the illness of the Grand Duke who, as she deals largely in those wares Michael prevented her witnessing the which are attractive to her own sex, will, military pageant of a review of 50,000 we doubt not, find much favor among them, men under the Emperor in person. As a a favor heightened perhaps by the fact of curious instance of etiquette, she mentions her having played the ambassadress among the fact that persons are not permitted to the people of whom she writes. walk in the gardens before the palace with The authoress is Lady Sheil, and her their hats on, lest the Emperor should be subject, Life and Manners in Persia. looking out of the window as they passed; The traveller's party consists of a husband, and as a certain Colonel Sconsiderthree Irish servants, and one French ser-ed this to be an indignity an Englishman vant-the cook, of course-and, though ought not to submit to, the coveted walk last, not least in her own estimation, a was sacrificed at the shrine of British * Glimpses of Life and Manners in Persia. Lady Sheil. London: John Murray. 1856. pride. The mazourka was danced at the By theatre upon the occasion of her visit, and Lady Sheil appears to have been as enthu "Each dancer wore the heavy long boots and spurs and the ponderous sabre without which the Polish noble never appeared in public. At every movement of the dance they sharply struck their boots and spurs together, as if beating time, converting the peaceful and graceful mazourka of our ball-rooms into a genuine war-dance, in which with hand and foot they were heartily joined by the Russian officers, who for the moment seemed to forget their hatred of every thing Polish." siastic in her admiration as the rest of the Taman. The day was spent in examining audience. The women were all dressed in the military hospitals, which were found in the becoming national costume, and the remarkably good order, and every thing men after the manner of their country in bespeaking care and attention. Their the days of her independence. route was continued through the Kuban, where our authoress not only found the roads execrable, but had her peace of mind destroyed by hauntings of an attack from the Circassians in the hills. Unfortunately for the excitement of the narra tive, their journey was pursued in perfect peace, and Prince Woronzow's introductions ensured them many useful civilities. Among many other subjects touched upon by Lady Sheil, we find several pages on the Circassians, and the slave-trade thereof; her information was obtained The authoress observed with pain the from a slave-dealer, who confessed that squalor and poverty prevalant all over Po- the vigilance of Russia was inconveniently land, and which fomed a striking contrast sharp, and rendered the traffic difficult and to the appearance of comfort she found at dangerous. The supply of slaves is kept the Russian village of Kief. From this up in various ways: criminals are sold; place they proceeded to Odessa, where slaves are brought from distant places; orthey made the acquaintance of Prince Wo-phans are frequently offered for sale; some ronzow, a name respected in every country persons are desirous of change, and willing in Europe. From him they received an to be sold. A father can not sell son or invitation to visit his palace in the Crimea, daughter without their consent; the latter whither they proceeded in a war-steamer are often willing to go into the market. Unthe following day. Lady Sheil was much married girls do nothing but needlework; struck with the condescending familiarity married women do all the drudgery. The of the Russian nobles to their inferiors, girls are not very handsome, but they are exwhich she justly ascribes to the unapproach- ceedingly clever and intelligent, readily able differences of classes, and of which she learning Turkish, music, and dancing; and may any day see an antitype by visiting a they speedily acquire, by their intellectual Virginia planter. Passing Eupatoria, Se- superiority, influence in a Turkish family. bastopol, and Balaklava-names sacred to The Georgian women, though superior in England as the scene of so much glory and beauty, are inferior in mind, and of less vaso much grief-the steamer anchored off lue in the market. The value of a male Yalta, whence they commanded a splendid slave ranges from £10 to £70; the lowest view of the lovely scenery of Southern price being given for boys at five, and for Crimea. An aide-de-camp soon appeared men at thirty, after which age it would alongside, and conducted them to the gor- seem they are not marketable. They comgeous palace of their host, where the prince mand the highest value from ten to fifteen. and princess exercised hospitality with The female price ranges from £10 to £150, royal munificence. The party at dinner and the marketable age between five and amounted to fifty people, and the company fifty. They are at their highest between was of a motly description: "According to the custom of the Russian nobles, who appear indifferent to the rank of their guests, farther than giving each a higher or lower place at table, and more or less costly fare, in proportion to his social status. The wines were excellent and numerous, and all provided from the surrounding vineyards on Prince Woronzow's property." From thence the party proceeded inland viâ Simpheropol and Theodosia, to Kertch, and there crossing the straits, landed at fourteen and eighteen. Our authoress dilates with evident satisfaction on the musical talents of the Russian soldiers. On one occasion a concert was improvised, which calls forth the following expressions: "It had a really surprising effect to hear the rough, uncultivated men singing with the utmost precision tenor, second tenor, base, and all preserving a perfect correctness and harmony. It is said that on a march an entire regiment of Russian soldiers will sometimes relieve their fatigue by singing in parts one of their national melodies." Arrived at Tiflis, we find a pithy and Commander-in-chief of the Caucasus in correct description of the Georgian and 1844. The late war must have been a Armenian characters. The former are scource of the deepest grief to him, for described as famous for their military though a devoted patriot, he had many talents, bold, turbulent, reckless, extrava- ties of the deepest affection and esteem in gant, and unsurpassable topers; the latter this country. These feelings probably as mean, cringing, timid, always intent on lessened the regret with which, from illgain, and unlike the Georgian, in keeping health, he was obliged to resign his comwhat is gained. The Armenian priests mand, upon which occasion he received are represented as grossly ignorant and the unusual compliment of being requested highy immoral. Prince Woronzow's fos- to name his successor-General Réad, tering care seems to have lost none of its since killed in the Crimea. energy by distance. Georgia, and Tiflis Prince Woronzow possesses firmness of itself, bear many marks of it. In the lat-purpose and administrative powers of the ter he has planned many valuable institu- highest order, blended with extreme kindtions, as well as opened an opera-house and ness of heart. These talents he employed a small theatre for the civilization of the in ameliorating the condition of the people, citizens. increasing commerce, encouraging art, etc. As South Russia has been so long the Rarely has a subject been the recipient of scene of his labors, and as he is one of the higher honors, or been held in more unimost remarkable men in the Empire, a versal estimation; and never did one posslight sketch of his career can not be de- sess more entirely the confidence of his void of interest. Prince Woronzow was sovereign. born in 1782, and entered the army at We hasten back from this digression to nineteen. He was constantly employed resume our journey, culling stray flowers on active service, in which he always found of manners or customs as we jaunt along. some opportunity for distinguishing him- In case any anxious mother should not self; and ere he was three-and-twenty he be satisfied with Revalanta Arabica, alias had earned several decorations. He was lentils, we beg to insert a recipe for a new made a general at twenty-seven, and receiv- dish, wherewith to fill their tender little ed a letter of thanks from the Czar for his ones: conduct at the battle of Batine, (1809,) in which he took the Seraskier's camp. Two "Our hostess helped herself to a large bowl of years after this he was presented with a soup, fattened in the proportions that Russians sword set in diamonds, for his bravery on love, into which she poured half a bottle of the the field of Roustchouk. He was greatly and sugar; after duly amalgamating which ingre favorite beverage, London stout, adding eggs distinguished and severely wounded at the dients, she gave a plate of the fearful mixture to bloody struggle of the Borodino, and re- her only child, a pretty, delicate-looking little ceived in consequence the decoration of girl, who seemed highly delighted and refreshed St. Anne in diamonds. Continually at the with the compound." post of danger, we find him earning fresh laurels at Leipsic. Ever marching onward Previous to crossing the Aras into Peron the road to fame and favor, he receiv- sia, Lady Sheil touches upon Russian chaed a letter of thanks from the Emperor for racter, in doing which she seems to hold his conduct when in command of a division their heads tenderly with one hand, and before Paris, (1814.) When hostilities to slap their faces with the other. Here were renewed he was named aide-de-camp are her words: to the Emperor, and to him was confided the command of the Russian division of "Russia is often reviled, but if we were to judge the Army of Occupation. In 1823 he was of the national character by what we saw, canmade Governor of South Russia and Bes- dor would oblige us to declare that intelligence, sarabia. In 1836 he became a member of cordiality, and liberality are the prevailing the Imperial Grand Council. Decorations What struck me more than qualities. and swords flowed in upon him perpetually the upper classes for the feelings of their serany thing else in Russia, was the disregard of in recognition of his eminent services. Avants and dependants. They seemed to me gold medal was presented to him for his to look on, and to treat them as inferior animals." unwearying and successful personal exer tions in arresting the plague at Odessa, When it is remembered that the au(1837.) He received his appointment as thoress was a British Minister's wife, and instinct." would therefore naturally receive every | infinitely surpasses the turbaned cavaliers of courtesy and attention, we fear that if her India. The whole nation seems to ride by pages ever meet Russian eyes, the exclamation will be forced from them, "Lord, preserve us from our friends!" We are now fairly in Persia, and the impression which its scenery has left on the writer's mind is any thing but pleasant: "Sterile indeed was the prospect, and unhappily it proved to be but an epitome of all the scenery in Persia, excepting on the coast of the Caspian. A desolate plain, or rather valley, bounded on each side by rocky or chalky mountains still more desolate - not a tree visible excepting the few willows, poplars, and fruit-trees, surrounding the villages thinly scattered over the waste- such is Persia, and her scenery in general, excepting that sometimes a fine village is to be seen smothered in immense gardens, orchards of the most delicious fruits, and vineyards. These bright spots are, however, not numerous." In short, the beauties of Persia are about equal to those of a sand-bank with a few stray thistles sparsely sprinkled over it. We dare not indorse such an opinion, as we believe it to be an exaggeration, brought out, probably, as many such wholesale expressions are, by the weariness of uncomfortable travelling, accompanied with a slight touch of dyspepsia; under which circumstances we too often see through a glass darkly. The population do not appear to have been viewed quite as unfavorably as their country: "A Persian on horseback, prepared for war or a journey, is, to the eye at all events, a formidable personage. He is armed from top to toe, a long gun at his back, a pistol at his waist, another behind, a sword at his left, a tremendous dagger, called a kamma, at his right, while at his belt dangles an infinity of horns for various sorts of ammunition-powder for loading, powder for priming, balls, etc. Add to this a swarthy visage, half-hid in a long black beard, a tall cap of lambskin, immense trowsers, boots, red or black, to the knee, a shaggy yapoucha on his shoulder, a short chibouk under the flap of his saddle, and the Persian horseman is complete. His hand is so desperately rough as to deprive the horse's mouth of nearly all sensibility. He is said to be inferior to the Hindostance horseman in grace and dexterous feats on horseback, such as jerking out with his lance a tentpin deeply fixed in the ground, the horse at half speed or galloping in a circle round his lance, the point on the ground, and the other end on his arm; but that in energetic, bold riding, which stops at nothing, the Persian Among other peculiarities of the Persians is one in which they rival the southern nations of Europe-a love of lollipops. Lady Sheil says: "At every station from the Aras to Teheran, the first thing I beheld on entering the room was several pounds of tea, flanked by a suitable of sweetmeats, on which the Persian servants number of loaves of sugar, with a whole cargo regaled themselves with all the greediness of children." The feelings of our lady author were naturally shocked at a most disagreeable ceremony enacted in their honor on approaching a village: "An unfortunate cow in the midst of the crowd, close to the roadside, was held down by the head and feet; when we came within a yard or so of the miserable animal, a man brandished a large knife, with which he instantly, before head from its body. He then ran across our there was time for interference, severed its road with the head, allowing the blood to flow in our path in torrents, and we passed on to encounter a repetition of the same cruel rites performed on various sheep. This ceremony was called korban, or sacrifice, these poor creatures having been immolated in order that all the misfortunes, evils, and disasters which might overtake us, should fall on them; and fall on them assuredly they did." They were preceded in their entry by ferashes, or lictors, who thrashed every body that came in the way after the lodged, the authoress became an object of most approved Oriental fashion. When intense curiosity, as the ladies had never before seen one of their sex dressed in "trowsers with one leg," for so they term a gown. sians and other Mussulmans, she rightly In speaking of the religion of the Perobserves that the former are called Sheah and the latter Soonnee; the Sheahs regarding Ali as the successor of Mohammed, and the Soonnees giving precedence to Abubekr, Omar, and Osman; but we can not believe she consulted her husband before hazarding the opinion that there is little or no difference in their doctrine, as those conversant with their respective creeds could point out many salient points of difference. We will now allow our authoress to describe the grand ceremonial of the entrance into Tabreez, from which the ungallant cavaliers of Persia excluded her, as belonging to "the inferior and ignoble class," womankind: "It was difficult to say how many thousand people had assembled, or what class of persons had not come forth to do honor to the Queen of England's representative. There were princes and priests, and merchants and moolas, and mountebanks, and dervishes, and beggars; there were Koordish and Toork horsemen of the tribes, and soldiers and Ghoolams; in short, there was every thing and every body, but there was not a single woman, for in Persia a woman is no body. The cavalcade began four miles from the town, and each step brought a fresh reënforcement to the procession, or istikbal, as it is called. The visitors approached the envoy, and after paying their compliments and congratulations, rode by his side or fell behind, according to their rank. The advance was slow, the dust stifling, the fatigue of complimenting several thousand people overwhelming; but careful of the exhausted envoy, and the Russian treaty on etiquette moreover not being out of his view, his Royal Highness the Prince Governor had prepared a tent midway, where the grandees of the istikbal alighted, smoked kalleans and chibouks, drank tea and coffee, and partook of the everlasting sweetmeats. To horse, again, with a greater crowd than ever! more beggars, more lootees or mountebanks with their bears and monkeys, more dervishes vociferating for inam or bakhshish, heaping praises and blessings without measure on Ala Hezret Padshah e Inglis-her Majesty the Queen of England-and Junabe Elchee, his Excellency the Envoy; and uttering loud benedictions on Hezret Eesa and Hezret e Miriam, the Lord Jesus and the blessed Mary. These latter benedictions surprised me, but I afterwards learned that, with the exception of the denial of his divinity, and the assertion of his being second to Mohammed, and to Mohammed only, the veneration of Mussulmans for our Saviour nearly equals our own. They rarely allude to him without using the words Hezret Eesă alchoos salām-the Lord Jesus, on whom be blessings. They believe him to have been a special creation of the Almighty, like Adam, by his will alone. Their reverence for the Blessed Virgin, too, is not much inferior to the homage of the Church of Rome, the RussoGreek Church, and all the churches of the East. The tall white lily is in Persia called the Goole Miriam, or Flower of Mary; and in a Persian painting representing the Annunciation, lilies are growing round her. "The throng now reached the town; and here began the tug of war. The deep broad ditch surrounding the city was crossed by a narrow causeway, over which the multitude passed. The leaders had no difficulty; but when the reckless crowd arrived-for a Persian on horseback is thoroughly reckless-every one pressing forward, despite of kicking and fighting horses, the confusion and uproar may be imagined. However, they all got through at wounded or not I can not tell; and I brought up last, though whether with any killed and the rear, and entered the city covered with dust, and hot and tired. Any thing more dismal can hardly be conceived. The images of youth are not easily effaced; and the Arabian Nights and Lolla Rookh will hold their place in the memory whether it will or not. But once inside the gate of a Persian city, the charm is dissolved, the magician's wand is broken, and reality takes the place of romance, which is destroyed for ever. Half the city seemed depopulated; there were large spaces wholly vacant, with deep excavations on either hand, from which the earth had been dug to build houses. Dead dogs, and here and there a dead horse half-eaten, offended more than one sense. The houses were frightful. Constructed of brown unburnt bricks, looking exactly like mud, and without a single window to the street, they presented a most gloomy aspect. This is a general picture of a Persian town; and be it remembered that Tabreez is one of the best and richest cities in the whole kingdom. As we approached the European and Armenian quarter some improvement began to be visible. A few of the houses had windows, here and there an ornamental gateway appeared, and some attempt at embellishment was made by means of paint. Still, the sombre brick, and a general air of decay, maintained supremacy. It is, nevertheless, only the outside of a Persian house which looks so comfortless. The interior of those belonging to the better class are very commodious, and often of a great size. "On arriving at the British Government House, the first thing I saw was a whole room full of sweetmeats-sugar-candy and refined sugar, sent by the Prince Governor as a mark of congratulation. Every festival is celebrated in this way. The Queen's birthday, our New Year's day, invariably brought in each succeeding year a supply from the Shah, carried by his Majesty's fetashes through the most public parts of the town, on immense trays, covered with embroidered silk. The etiquette was to send back the covers, which I confess I used to do with reluctance, for they were sometimes very handsome. An omission in these matters is looked on as a slight, which the Russians are careful in avoiding by notifying to the Minister for Foreign Affairs his Imperial Majesty's birthday, fete-day, saint's-day, and the other host of festivals which the Muscovites love to solemnize. These honors are rather costly, the bearers of these sweetmeats not being at all satisfied unless they receive a donation to the amount of twelve or fifteen pounds sterling. His Majesty, who is of a very affable and amiable disposition, during his hunting excursions near Teheran, often sends a few partridges or hares to the foreign representatives as a mark of his favor; and it is little exaggeration to say that each head of game costs its weight in silver." |