Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

have abandoned the hope that any survive, yet the return of the searching party, which is now on its way to Simpson Strait, must be looked forward to by many with intense anxiety.

We remained incarcerated by the ice until the 10th of August, when it suddenly disappeared, passing away to the eastward, and leaving Dease Strait free. The probability of our egress by Peel Inlet appeared to me quite as feasible as the western route, but upon examination, it was found that from some error at Woolwich we were 18 tons of coal short. I had, therefore, no alternative but to make the best of my way to a coast where drift- wood could be found; we accordingly retraced our route, and met with no obstruction until opposite the embouchure of the Coppermine, when we found the channel blocked, and in our endeavours to get through were frequently in great peril, being beset and carried in the pack among the numerous islets and rocks with which this channel abounds. At length, with the loss of two anchors and 140 fathoms of chain, we effected our escape from the Dolphin and Union Strait, and had the satisfaction of being able once more to put trust in our compasses, and steer the ship in fogs and cloudy weather without risk of losing our way.

On arrival at Cape Bathurst, instead of the open sea which existed at the same period two years previous, we found the pack resting on the shore, and had considerable difficulty in getting through it. From thence, with less obstruction, we reached Herschel Island, but were here again brought to a standstill, until a westerly wind dispersed the ice, and with great difficulty we got at length into Camden Bay. This was fated to be our resting-place for the third winter, as at its western horn the ice was closely packed upon the shore, which an easterly wind was continually augmenting; and while waiting with a hope that a change in its direction would loosen the pack, the frost came and cemented all together. With the exception of spirits and a small deficiency in tea and sugar, we had an ample supply of provisions; and as soon as the ice would bear, set to work to lay in a stock of fuel for the winter. The beach was covered with drift-wood, and as it had to be dragged 4 miles off to the ship, the shortness of the days prevented our making more than one trip. We succeeded, however, in obtaining a sufficiency, and then settled down to our winter occupations. The season fortunately proved mild, and the general state of health was equal to the first and superior to the second year. When the spring advanced, I undertook a journey to the N., in the hope of settling the Polynia question; but although lightly laden, our sleighs broke down, and some of the men receiving severe falls from the hummocky condition of the ice, induced me to abandon the journey; and then the ascent of the Romanzoff mountains was undertaken, whence I hoped to

obtain an extended view to the northward. But in this we were also disappointed, in consequence of the prevalence of foggy weather, and the difficulty of travelling after the thaw commenced, all the water-courses being flooded.

On the 2nd of July the Esquimaux arrived from Barter Island, and we obtained from them some papers printed on board the Plover, by which we learnt that that vessel had passed the winter of 1852 at Point Barrow, and that the Investigator had not been heard of since 1850. As it was probable she had not made her escape the last season, it was determined at once to open a communication with Capt. Maguire, so as to enable him to collect provisions in time for us to return this season; and when the landwater admitted, which was the 10th of July, the whale boat under Lieut. Jago was despatched to Point Barrow. After a great

deal of labour he reached that spot on the 24th, and found the Plover had sailed two days previously. The boat was so much damaged by being launched over the ice, that it was not prudent to return; he accordingly remained until our arrival. While waiting for us, the Rattlesnake stood in to the Point, but the weather being too bad for the boat to go off, she was not seen; and Capt. Trollope finding the Plover had sailed, returned without having noticed the boat's signals. This slight occurrence prevented our being in the ice at the present moment, as on board the Rattlesnake they were not aware at that time that Capt. M'Clure had communicated with the eastern expeditions, and as there was provision for two years on board of her, we should have completed and returned to the eastward.

The ice broke off alongside the ship on the 15th of July, but it was the 20th ere a navigable channel was found round Point Brownlow, and then we made but slow progress to the westward owing to contrary winds. On our route we fell in with the Point Barrow natives on their way to Barter Island, who immediately came on board, addressed me by name, and said Maguire had told them to supply us with provisions. A brisk barter immediately took place, and among other things a file of the Illustrated London News,' containing the opening of the Great Exhibition, was produced, being the first intelligence we had received from England since January, 1851!

On the 8th of August we reached Point Barrow, and having picked up our boat, made all sail to the southward; and on the 11th fell in with five American whale-ships, and reopened our communication with the civilized world after an interval of 1126 days.

When the result of our observations upon the moon-culminating stars, which have been obtained at each of our winter quarters, is ascertained, I will communicate to the Society the geographical

positions established by the Enterprise, and will conclude this paper by a few remarks upon the navigation of the sea that is now thrown open.

From the absence of field-ice and icebergs, the entrance by Behring Strait to the Polar Sea will always be found less hazardous than that by Davis Strait; and, in my opinion, the great difficulty lies between Icy Cape and Point Barrow. When the latter is rounded, although exposed to detention, yet the voyage may be considered as sccure; and in the event of a vessel not being able to reach a sheltered harbour before the winter sets in, the security in which we passed the winter of 1853 on the open coast affords good reason to think that the ice hereabouts remains stationary; but the vicinity of the Mackenzie or Point Barrow should be avoided unless shelter from the land can be obtained.

Between Icy Cape and Point Barrow we found a current setting continually to the N.E., but along the American continent, the Prince of Wales and Dease Strait, the current is governed by the wind, while in the Dolphin and Union Strait a regular ebb and flow occurs. The tides seldom rise 3 feet. A synopsis of these and the meteorological observations will accompany the geographical positions. A large collection of specimens in natural history, which have been lodged in the British Museum, has been made by the surgeon, Mr. Anderson. While we must all lament that the noble object on which we were sent was not attained, we have the answer of a good conscience on our part that no means of affording aid to the missing ships was left untried, and that the search was continued to the uttermost our means afforded.

Geographical Positions established by Her Majesty's Ship Enterprise in the Polar Sea.

The accompanying longitudes are based upon the results of moon-culminating observations at the following places, viz.

[merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

The meridian distances obtained by the chronometers (five in number) are as follows:

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small]

By which it will be seen that there is an error of 24', or 6 miles, in the longitude brought back to Port Clarence; and as it is difficult to determine where this error occurs, I have preferred retaining the result of each culminating station to referring the whole of the observations to one particular spot. The artificial horizon was frequently used on board the ship, the smoothness

of the sea sometimes admitting of its use, even when the vessel had a rate of three knots through the water. But some of the positions are liable to a slight uncertainty, either from being oversea observations or deduced from the rate of a pocket chronometer during our sledge operations.

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

[The following is an account of the Jimma country given me by a native whom I met some years ago in Egypt. He had been carried off as a slave, and was taken to the Port of Berbera, from which he was sent to Mókha, and afterwards to Cairo.-J. G. W.]

ON going into the interior towards the S.W. from the port of Berbera, you traverse the Somául country, then that of Adderay, beyond which is the Jimma district. This is the name given it by the inhabitants; the Gallas call it Warági (Warakee). It lies to

*From the Plover's observations.

[merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]
« ZurückWeiter »