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supposed so remarkably to distin- feet. Every Icelander, of whatever guish the island.

Sir George's zeal to accomplish the object of his expedition seems to have led him to begin his movements at an earlier period of the season than was well suited for travelling in this climate; and he was thus obliged to undertake the excursion on foot. Some horses, however, were necessary for carrying the baggage; and a curious account is given of the manner in which journies are performed with these animals.

"The packsaddles consist of square pieces of light spungy turf, cut from the bogs. These are tied on with a rope; a piece of wood made to fit the horse's back, with a peg projecting from each side, is fastened over the turf, and on these pegs the baggage is hung by means of cords. The Icelanders pretend to be very nice in balancing the loads; but I do not recollect ever having travelled two miles, without stopping ten times to rectify the baggage. When all the horses are loaded, they are fastened to each other, head to tail. A cord is tied round the under jaw of the second horse, and the other end of it is joined to the tail of the first; and thus I have seen thirty or forty; marching through the country. The Iceland horses, though very hardy, and patient of fatigue, are easily startled. When any one horse in a string is alarmed, it often happens, that the cords break, and the whole cavalcade is put into confusion. The poor animals, however, never fail to stop where they can get any thing to eat; and at all times they are easily caught. A well broke riding-horse will wait on the spot where his master leaves him, for any length of time. If any grass he may feed; but if there is none, he will stand perfectly still for hours. Many horses will not even touch grass when under their

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rank, can shoe a horse. The shoes are plain; and the nails, which are very large, are driven firmly through the hoof, and carefully doubled over; and in this simple state the shoes remain firm till completely worn, or accidentally broken. Travellers always carry a supply of shoes and nails, when going long journies. For a short journey it is customary to put shoes only on the fore feet of the horses. When iron is scarce, the

horns of sheep are made use of for horse shoes."

The first place they reached was Havnefiord, which, with the approach to it, seems very striking.

"We passed through a bare dismal looking country, over some low hills; till, not far from Havnefiord, we entered a rough path, and got upon a track which bore dreadful marks of fire. As we approached this scene of desolation, snow began to fall so thickly, that we could not see more than fifty yards distance; and this added not a little to the awful impressions which the first sight of a stream of lava made upon us. The melted masses had been heaved up in every direction, and had assumed alf sorts of fantastic forms; on every side chasms and caverns presented themselves. As we advanced, the scene assumed a more terrific aspect; and when we least expected it, we descried Havnefiord situate directly under one of the most rugged parts of the lava; and so placed, that the houses obtained the most complete shelter from masses of matter, that had formerly carried destruction in their course.

"There are only two merchants' houses here, and a few storehouses, all constructed of wood, and placed close to the sea, which here forms a small but very snug bay, in which there is good anchorage. There is a

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dry harbour, into which a sloop of forty or fifty tons may be brought for repair. The wooden buildings, the cottages scattered among the lava, the sea, and the distant country, form altogether a singular scene."

From this they went to visit the school at Bessestad, the account of which gives but a melancholy view of the condition and prospects of the literature of that island.

soon came in sight of a phenomenon, most singular in any other country, though it soon proved to be common here.

"We saw vapour arising behind a hill at a short distance. We approached, and beheld it ascending with impetuosity from a circular bason, in a hollow near the summit of the mountain. Having advanced to the spot, we were surprised to see no water running from what was supposed to be a boiling spring. On advancing nearer, we heard loud splashing, and going close to the bason, which was twelve feet in diameter, we perceived it to be full of thick black mud, in a state of very violent ebullition. This singular phenomenon seemed to be occasioned by steam escaping from some deep seated reservoir of boiling water, and suspending the mud, which was probably produced by the action of the steam, in softening the

"We proceeded to the school house, and were received by the bishop in his full dress. His under robe was of black velvet, over which was a silk one bordered with velvet; the cuffs were of white cambric. Round his neck he wore a white ruff. In this dress our good friend had a most venerable and dignified appearance. The school-rooms are lofty, but rather confined and dirty. Above these are barrack-rooms for the scholars and attendants, all in a very uncleanly condition. The lector lament-matter through which it forced its ed this, and the bishop pronounced with emphasis, Bella, horrida bella!' which at once explained the evident state of decay into which this only remaining seminary of learning seerned to be falling. There is a considerable collection of books, a few of them curious and rare; but they are piled confusedly together in a miserable garret, and covered with dust and cobwebs."

The travellers now proceeded towards the sulphur mountains, through a country which exhibited the most singular aspect of entire desolation. The surface was wholly covered with lava, which rose in a thousand fantastic forms. Not a leaf, not a tree, no sign of vegetation, was to be seen, and their track was over pointed rocks, covered with sand and ashes. Such a path could with difficulty be passed on foot, and would have presented insuperable obstacles to any horses but those of Iceland. They

way. We discovered a number of little fissures in the sand round about, from which steam rushed with a hissing noise. Though the splashing of the mud was incessant and violent, we did not observe any of it to escape from the boundary it had formed for itself."

At length our travellers reached the sulphur mountain, the chief object of this part of their excursion; and they have given the following view of its very singular construction.

"At the foot of the mountain was a small bank composed chiefly of white clay and some sulphur, from all parts of which steam issued.— Ascending it, we got upon a ridge immediately above a deep hollow, from which a profusion of vapour arose, and heard a confused noise of boiling and splashing, joined to the roaring of steam escaping from narrow crevices in the rock. This hollow, together with the whole side of

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the mountain opposite, as far up as we could see, was covered with sulphur and clay, chiefly of a white or "yellowish colour. Walking over this soft and steaming surface we found to be very hazardous; and I was frequently very uneasy when the vapour concealed my friends from me. The day, however, being dry and warm, the surface was not so slippery as to occasion much risk of our falling.The chance of the crust of sulphur breaking, or the clay sinking with us was great, and we were several times in danger of being much scalded.Mr Bright ran at one time a great hazard, and suffered considerable pain from accidentally plunging one of his legs into the hot clay. From whatever spot the sulphur is removed, steam instantly escapes; and in many places the sulphur was so hot that we could scarcely handle it. From the smell I perceived that the steam was mixed with a small quantity of sulphurated hydrogen gas. When the thermometer was sunk a few inches into the clay, it rose generally to within a few degrees of the boiling point. By stepping cautiously, and avoiding every little hole from which steam issued, we soon discovered how far we might venture. Our good, fortune, however, ought not to tempt any person to examine this wonderful place, without being provided with two boards, with which any one may cross every part of the banks in perfect safety. At the bottom of this hollow we found a cauldron of boiling mud, about fifteen feet in diameter, similar to that on the top of the mountain which we had seen the evening before; but this boiled with much more vehemence. We went within a few yards of it, the wind happening to be remarkably favourable for viewing every part of this singular scene. The mud was in constant agitation, and often

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thrown up to the height of six or eight feet. Near this spot was an irregular space filled with water boiling briskly. At the foot of the hill, in a hollow formed by a bank of clay and sulphur, steam rushed with great force and noise from among the loose fragments of rock.”

Our author is of opinion, that if proper arrangements were made for collecting the sulphur, which is continually sublimating in this extraordinary spot, it might be made a profitable article of commerce. The steps necessary for this object, however, seem much too complicated to allow us to expect that they should be taken by a people so poor and so little enterprising.

From the sulphur mountain, our party proceeded to a place called Grundevick, which they found animated by a great degree of industry. Fishing was there carried on to a great extent by a number of persons from all the neighbouring parts of the island. The following very interesting view is here introduced of the domestic economy of the natives, and the sources from which they derive their subsistence.

"One of the chief cares of an Icelander is the laying in a stock of provision for the winter season. Towards this object, almost his whole time and exertions are directed, and the sea is his great and sure resource. About the beginning of February, the people of the interior, and even those inhabiting the northern parts of the island, begin to move, and a great part of the male population emigrates towards the western and southwestern coasts. The farmers send their servants, and frequently accompany them. They take a small stock of butter and smoked mutton, and sheep skin dresses. The farmers are sometimes distinguished from their servants by having a small quantity

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of rye bread and a little brandy. Be fore commencing his journey, an Icelander takes off his hat, places it be fore his face, and repeats a prayer prescribed for such occasions. He is welcomed at every cottage he stops at, and it is seldom that any remune ration is required for his entertainment. Many travel two hundred miles amidst snow and darkness, to the place they chuse for their fishing station; and if they have not previ ously made some agreement with the proprietor of a boat, a bargain is soon. entered into, the terms of which have long been established by custom. By these, a person coming from the interior, engages himself from the 12th February to the 12th May, (the pe riod varies a little) to be ready to obey the call for fishing, and to assist in the management of the boat. In return for his labour he receives forty pounds of meal, (if any is to be got) and five gallons of sour whey, besides a share of the fish that are taken. The fish are divided into two shares more than the number of men employ ed, and these belong to the owner of the boat, who provides lines and hooks. When he furnishes nets, which are generally used during the early part of the season, he receives one half of the fish caught. All the people engaged for one boat generally live together in the same hut. The previous arrangements being made, a long period of hardship and privation begins. In darkness, and subjected to intense cold, these poor people seek from the ocean the means for subsisting their families during the follow ing winter. As soon as the boat is pushed from the shore, the man at the helm takes off his hat and repeats a prayer for success, in which he is joined by the crew. They generally remain at sea from eight to twelve hours, during which time they taste nothing but a little sour whey, January 1812.

which is the only provision ever taken out with them. The women assist in cleaning and splitting the fish, after they have been brought to land. When the weather is so stormy that the fishermen cannot venture to sea, they frequently amuse themselves by wrestling, or playing at leap frog," and other diversions. Their mode of wrestling is somewhat peculiar →→→ The two men who are to try their strength and skill, lay hold of each other in the way they think best.---As soon as they have secured their grasp, each endeavours by sudden jerks, or by lifting him from the ground, or by quick turning, to throw his antagonist; and the dexterity they display is often extraordinary. About the beginning of May, the fishermen return home, leaving their fish, which are not by this time perfectly dried, and which may amount to five or six hundred for the share of each individual, to the care of some person who resides on the spot. About the middle of June, when the horses have got plump and strong, the farmers set out on their second annual journey, carrying with them all their marketable commodities, which they dispose of, and return home with their fish and such things as they may have purshased. When the stock of fish is thought too small, they barter wool, tallow, or butter, for any additional quantity they may require, and pay a small sum for the lodging and food of their servants.”

Sir George now returned to Reikiavik, previous to exploring some other parts of Iceland. After a short residence there, he set out on an excursion over the western part of the island, terminated by a very lofty mountain, called Snæfell Jokul, which our travellers were anxious to examine. Their present route lay through a more inhabited district than the former; and considerable in

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formation is given in the course of it respecting the domestic and rural economy of Iceland. We were much pleased with the extracts from a register kept by the clergyman of a village called Saurbar, and with the minute and beneficent inspection which it exhibits into all the con⚫cerns and interests of his parishioners, We are then conducted to Indreholm, the residence of Mr Stephenson, chief justice, and apparently the most important personage in the island. Here, therefore, our travellers had an opportunity of observing the highest style of society, free from any foreign mixture. It certainly differs considerably from our standard, particularly in one respect. The ladies of the family, instead of sitting down to dinner, waited and acted as servants; the mistress of the house, indeed, did not join in the executive part, but merely stood and observed. In other respects, however, they seem to have behaved on a footing of equality. There is no mention of any hired servants kept in the house of Mr Stephenson, though a man of considerable property.

Mr Stephenson appears to be the most zealous in the cultivation of literature of any person now in Iceland. He has a library of 700 or 800 volumes; he is at the head of the first literary society, and has the management of the only printing press in the island. Unfortunately, however, for the benefits to be derived from this latter circumstance, he is himself an author, and very voluminous; he entertains, moreover, a higher opinion of his own works than of those produced by any other of his countrymen. The consequence is, that the latter can with great difficulty find access to this only channel by which their writings could become known.

As our travellers approached the

Snæfell Jokul, the country again as sumed the character of desolation, though not so entire as that observed in their former journey. The surface was covered with lava, and many little hills formed by that substance; clearly proving that this region is also volcanic. Caves were also observed, exhibiting columnar appearances on a great scale. Two of the party ascended nearly to the summit of the mountain, higher than any of the natives had ever ventured; and a very interesting account is given by Mr Bright of the obstacles which they here met and surmounted.

The most remarkable object which they observed on their return to Reikiavik, consisted in the hot springs in the valley of Reikholt.

The third excursion embraced objects the most celebrated and most interesting of all; the Great Geyser and Mount Hekla. On their way, our travellers visited Thingvalla, a place celebrated in the ancient history of Iceland. On the shores of its lake was held the Allthing, or general assembly of Iceland; and Thingvalla continued, till within these ten years, to be the seat of the courts of justice. At that time, they were transferred to Reikiavik, and scarcely any thing now remains to mark the former greatness of Thingvalla. Our travellers next proceeded to Skalholt, which has been erroneously supposed to be the capital of Iceland. It is beautifully situated, but not of such magnitude as to deserve to be called a town.

About sixteen miles from Skalholt, lie the Geysers, whither Sir George immediately proceeded. He soon witnessed an eruption of the Great Geyser,a description of which our readers will no doubt be anxious to peruse.

"I returned to the Geyser in order to collect specimens of the incrus. tations on the mount. I selected a

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