quickly attacked and destroyed. As many of your readers colouring facing-bricks red. I can buy it at the [74645.]-Cutting Paper. I want particulars of a knife, either circular or otherwise, to cut paper, similar to newspaper, as it passes over a wooden roller. A knife that would keep a good edge for a long time without tampering with would be most suitable, to be simple in construction, and to give a clear cut without making frayed edges.-PAPER-CUTTER. (74646.]-Carbonising.-Will some reader familiar with the subject kindly say what is the best strength of acid solution for carbonising wool, or rather the vegetable admixture, and the temperature of the desiccating chamber?-T. T. W. [74647.)-Foucault's Test. - Many thanks to ** Širrah " for his answer to my query. I have discarded the speculum metal and purchased a glass disc. Can Sirrah" tell me what is meant by Foucault's test? In reply to "Orion," how is the plane mounted? A sketch would greatly oblige of the telescope complete.-FUL MINATE. [74648.]-Eyepiece for Newtonian-Will any of your readers kindly say which kind of eyepiece it is better to use on a Newtonian reflector: and also what is the theory of the use of a Barlow lens 1-H. J. MABYON. 174649.]-Steeple Jack.-Will any kind reader tell me the best way to point a church steeple? I do not want to scaffold the job. Any particulars as to fixing of blocks at the top, if this method is advised, would oblige.J. F. [74650.]-The Preservation of Fruit.-I am very anxious just now to obtain all the information I can on the matter of preserving fruits, such as the evaporating of apples, as done in America, the preparation of the prunes which come in 'such quantities from France, and also the manufacture of the high-class French fruits preserved in syrup, which are seen everywhere, such as raspberries and gooseberries.-F. C. [74651.]-Piano, to Regild. I have piano, the front of which has been gilded with narrow marked Fancy stripes. I should be glad if some one could tell what materials to get, so that I might be able to regild Et, so that it will not be spoilt with polishing the woodwork across it. All the narrow marks are let in a little.JOE. [74652.]-Greenhouse.-Will someone kindly inform ne if I can heat a greenhouse with hot water from the boiler of a cottage range? The greenhouse is 7ft. square, and 20ft. away from the boiler. If so, which is the best way to do it?-AMATEUR. [74653.]-Thermometer.-1. Please give me simple instructions from which I could make an inexpensive thermometer, with method of dividing scale. 2. What additions to above, and how made, for an adjustable electric alarum, as I wish to make one for a greenhouse? Will copper wire, with in. of platinum soldered on, do for contact, instead of platinum wire right through? 3. What principle is a thermometer based on? Any instructions will be thankfully received by-ONE IN A MUDDLE. [74654.] Amateur Photography. - Having a Lancaster's "Merveilleux" camera, and using Ilford low plates, I have the following defects in the negatives: -After exposing two to five minutes on a fair day indoors, I find, after developing plate either in ferrous or pyro, or the single developer, the coating is so faint and early all washed away. I always understood that you cannot overwash or develop. Is this so, or is there any Fule or sign when to cease developing and immerse into fixing solution? The coated side of plate shows up well; but on the other side it is yellow, or thick, and just visible. There is also a kind of fog on plates. I make up my solutions as follows: [74659.]-Induction Coil.-To MR. BOTTONE.- refraction as one-seventh that due to curvature, which vertical position. These I want to make take a sudden movement of revolution every half-minute. These wheels will have considerable friction to overcome, as every alternate wheel carries a bobbin. Are Leclanché cells suitable for such work, as it is necessary that the concern should run with as little attention as possible for at least several months, or what would be the longest they would last? A plan of any description would greatly oblige.-A. SLUCE. [74668.]-Aerial Screw. -What power would be required to drive a fixed screw through the air, having one square yard of surface, which would travel (if worked in an unyielding substance) at 120 miles an hour, and what would be tne speed and pressure per square inch of air driven from screw?-E. FLOWER. dynamo with a ring armature 7in. in diameter, and four [74669.]-Brush Dynamo.-I am making a brush coils on it. Will some one kindly tell me the size and quantity of wire that I ought to put on the armature and field magnets to get the greatest efficiency? Also whether the armature and F.M.'s will do of cast iron; also what a shunt-wound dynamo is, and whether this would be best for me 1-G. H. D. [74670.]-Model Locomotive.-I write to remind "J. H." of his promise to give further information regarding the size of wire, &c., needed for the safetyvalve spring. Will he also kindly explain where the pipe from pump enters the boiler? The illustration of pump would seem to make the pipe go outwards; but it is met by a splasher, and must, I suppose, pass inwards, and enter at bottom of boiler. The arrangement for coupling locomotive and tender will, I presume, be explained in his articles upon the tender.-A. F. C. INCLUDING approaches, the new Tower Bridge will be more than half a mile long, and 80,000 tons of stone, 20,000 tons of cement, 15,000 tons of steel and iron, and 31,000,000 bricks will enter into its composition. THE North London steam tramcars will shortly cease running, in consequence of an agitation set on foot some months ago by the residents at Finsbury-park and neighbourhood. The Board of Trade has now refused to grant a renewal of the running powers of the North London Steam Tramways Company between Finsbury-park, Woodgreen, and Edmonton. The steam cars were not running in accordance with Board of Trade requirements, and the engines were not kept in good order. a distance A B of ten miles, the dip will be 66 5ft., leaving refraction out of the question for the present; therefore a ship, the top of whose masts are 66 5ft. above the water level, could not be seen by an observer at A, whose eyes were level with the edge of the shore. Now, if the person stand up to a height of 6ft., his horizon will be about three miles off. Now the dip for the remaining Theatrical Face Paints.-Torjesen gives the seven miles will be about 32ft., and this minus 66ft. equal following formula: White.-Oxide of zinc, sub34ft., which will be the height that he can see the masts nitrate of bismuth, and plumbate of alumina-of above his horizon. Is this so? If I take the error due to each, loz. Mix, and make into a paste with almond will give the dip about 29ft., will this be so, or will there oil (5 to 6 drachms required), and perfume with 12 be any difference for the remaining three miles.-S. C. B. minims of peppermint oil, 12 grains of camphor, [74661.]-Gas-Engine.-As I am very much inter- and a drachm of ess. bouquet. Bright red.-Oxide ested in gas-engines, and would like to have a good one, of zinc, subnitrate of bismuth, and plumbate of would any reader of the "E.M." who has had experi- alumina-of each, 10 drachms; eosin, 2 grains ence with, or knows them well, kindly let me know which (dissolved in a drachm of ess. bouquet); oil of pepis the most reliable, giving the least trouble, in the market at present? the question of price is of no im-permint, 12 minims; camphor, 12 grains; almond portance. I know that from the nature of things a good oil, a sufficiency to make a paste. Mix as above. thing must be of higher price than a jerry-built thing. Deep Bordeaux Red.-Oxide of zinc, subnitrate of Everybody I speak to advises Crossley's; but I think that bismuth, plumbate of alumina-of each, 15 drachms; this is more because they are so well known than from oil of peppermint, 12 minims; camphor, 12 grains; any special features they may have. There is a German carmine, 30 grains (dissolved in 80 minims of soluor Swiss engine which I have just heard about, which is tion of ammonia); almond oil, a sufficiency; ess. called the Martini; it has an electric-spark ignition. If this engine has been made by the Martini who made the bouquet, 1 drachm. Mix. Skin Colour.-Verrifles, I think it ought to be a good one. milion, 3 drachms; tincture of saffron, 2 drachms; seen or heard anything of this engine?-Any information powdered orris, 5 drachms; precipitated chalk and will greatly oblige.-W. Duff. oxide of zinc, of each, 20 drachms; camphor, 20 Is the above ferrous too strong, your readers tell me how to keep above clear of rust? I drachm; almond oil, [74662.-Rusty Washing Boiler.-Can any of grains; oil of peppermint 20 minims; ess. bouquet, Of the pyro I make upa sufficiency. Mix. It is carefully cleaned after use with petroleum oil, and Black.-Drop black (made by burning camphor and again before using, and yet the rust seems to be as bad washing the soot with spirit), 2 drachms; almond as ever, injuring the clothes. It is not long in use, and oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms. Mix, has always been carefully kept. The rust seems to work out of the iron, though not visible.-F. H. PETEBS. perfume, and cast into sticks. Protosulphate of iron Potassium oxalate.. I use 1 of A to 4 of B. Citric acid Pot. bromide Руто Water Am. bromide 1 ounce A 5 minims 5 ounces 5 ounces 20 grains B 20 ounces 5 grains 10 grains 40 grains 1 2 Ammonia, 880 [74655.]-Softening Water.-Do any of our readers know of an easy method of softening water in a large tank by means of sulphuric acid? The water is being constantly pumped in and used.-F. M. Has anyone [74663.]—Ohm's Law.-By what I understand of Ohm's law, a cell with an E.M.F. of two volts and in ternal resistance one ohm would send a current of one ampère througn a bell the resistance of whose coil was [74664.]-Massa's Universal Lathe.-Can any reader give the date when Mr. Massa's lathe or combined [74656.]-Joining Lead Pipes.-What kind of machine appeared; also that of the No. in which solder do plumbers use for doing this kind of work, and "F. A. M.'s" front-slide appeared ?-V. W. for joining lead to brass, &c. I have often seen them at [74665.]-Italy and Switzerland. Will some work apparently pouring out molten solder on a well-reader kindly inform me whether Venice, Rome, and scraped joint, and wiping it round with some kind of Naples are too hot to be visited in August or September? skin, but I cannot manage it myself. The solder hardens Any information as to how to spend a holiday cheaply in immediately.-F. M. Italy or Switzerland would oblige.-W. R. COOPER. [74666.]-To Prevent Rust.-Having a number of new joiners' chisels and other tools which will not be required for four or five years, and as I wish to prevent their rusting, would it not be well to pack them in sawdust in a tin box or small cask, and then to pour on some sort of oil? I shall be glad if one of your numerous readers will give the required information.-J. M. [74667.]-Wheels.-I have a row of two dozen wheels, of 13in. diameter, in gear with one another in a Wanted, Safety Bicycle, nearly new. Exchange good Model HORIZONTAL ENGINE and Copper Boiler, tested Sob co plete on polished oak box, in working order, nearly new, with t and water-gauges. Approval.-Particulars, send A. Roora, Lamb close, Eastwood, Nottinghamshire. First-class 2H P. Gas Engine, in good working order, cost £120. Will take in exchange a three-man power or Gas Engine and cash. Also Brown's patent steam donkey-ja No. 7. Offers.-W., 36, Lower-road, Rotherhithe. Wood turner's Lathe. 9in. centre, two rests, 12 tools 7ft., in exchange for worn clothing, value 36s-12, High street, Ground Live GATES AND WICKETS. To make a good field-gate is not perhaps very often or very wisely an amateur's undertaking. As a rule, he does not attempt work necessitating the manipulation of heavy material; but there is, at the same time, no reason why it should not be attempted. In the present day the stuff needed can be easily obtained roughly cut to size at the sawmill or the sawpit, and this is only to be rails about 3in. thick, by 3in. in width, | hook needs no screw, and is always] made to reduced by planing or similar handiwork to and the two falling and front stiles the same. drive in, because there is no tendency the form required. After this has been done The flat rails which pass through these and to draw it out of the hinge - post, as the mortise chisel and tenon or hand-saw through the diagonal strut are in. thick the weight of the gate acts, at that will suffice to complete the work. The and 24 to 3in. wide. They are, perhaps, well point, in the opposite direction. labour required is not in reality more than replaced by bars of round iron, a plan often the purpose of gate-making, the ordinary is needed for many an article of joinery, adopted in better-class gates of oak. As they carpenter's bench will not suffice, unless it because the pieces are for the most part much tedious tenon-and-mortise work is planing up the rails, therefore, i.e., the are of course passed through round holes, happens to be of an unusual length. For narrow, and are therefore easier to plane avoided by their use. main top and bottom ones, a couple of trestles may be used; the stuff being thick The top rail is mortised into the hanging 13 Fig 14 For than a 12in. or 14in. deal board as it comes from the sawmill. Whether an amateurmade gate will stand the ravages of wind and weather depends entirely upon the care and skill bestowed upon the joints, so that any amateur capable of fitting mortises and tenons should find no real difficulty in making a substantial and durable gate. Some few years ago I attempted to explain the principles upon which a gato depends for its stability, and these may be briefly repeated here for the sake of those who may not have given attention to such work. A gate is primarily composed of a bar secured to the upper part of an upright post, the latter hinged to an adjoining post firmly secured at its base by being sunk into the ground. Fig. 12 represents such an erection. A long bar, how- stile, as shown in Fig. 14, the part adjoining enough not to bend under the operation. ever, like this would be entirely dependent the tenon being cut off at an angle, as upon the tenon at D, and the end B would shown, giving, as stated above, very efficient tend to assume the position of C. In fact, aid in supporting the bar. A gate of this such a gate would have no stability. The description is usually divided by the falling end B must consequently be supported, and stiles into three equal parts, and the diagonal this is easily effected by a strut E. The strut remains entirely within the other one. tendency of B to sag downwards is by this The strut in this position forms a more means converted into a horizontal thrust in efficient support than if it formed a smaller the direction of the arrow, and it is efficiently angle with the top rail, and the entire design resisted by the hinge-post at the point most is probably as correct in theory as it is capable of bearing it. The simple bar has efficient in practice. It is true that few field thus become a substantial truss. In by-gone gates open and shut as they ought to do; days of turnpike gates this form was not unfrequently found as a "toll-bar" blocking some by-road, by which there would otherwise have been a means of escape from the gatekeeper's fee. The next step in the construction is to fill up the space under the top bar in order to keep back sheep and other smaller cattle. These add somewhat to the stiffness of the structure, but do not affect the principle of construction as stated above. For the flat slats below the bench can be used, by adding a 12ft. 14in. or 2in. board, or a 3in. plank. This, lying on the bench and set against the planing stop at one end, converts it into a 12ft. bench for the time being, and it is as well to keep such a plank on purpose, fitted with a plug to act as its own planing stop. A nice level plank will come into use frequently for planing up longer stuff than the bench will otherwise receive. Taking up the work in an orderly manner, the back, or hanging stile, Fig. 13, 10-feet In the finished gate, Fig. 17, it will be seen that the part which carries the hinges, and which is called the hanging stile, is much wider at the upper end than at the lower. This appears to be a generally accepted rule; but why it should be so is less easy to determine. It certainly gives a little additional support, at a, to the top rail, where the main but this is generally due to the entire hinge- calls first for attention. It will only be strain would fall if not taken by the diagonal post yielding to the strain caused by the necessary to plane off the saw-marks on each strut. There is, perhaps, another reason for weight of the structure. There should always side, and to face up the edges with a jackkeeping to this form, which is, that the top be a good spur, or strut, at x. It would not plane quite squarely to the sides. Any hinge formed on one side as a strap is only then be found that the front part of the gate, additional finish, such as chamfering the turned over, drawn out to a point, and driven after a short period of use, touches the angles, should be effected at a later stage. into the wood just where the top mortise ground; for the same reason the hook which The mortise holes must be squared off comes (see Fig. 15). It is not easy to see takes the upper hinge should be always made and marked from the back edge of this why this hinge, instead of thus weakening as a screw passing through the post and piece, owing to the fact that the opposite an important part, should not be made as a secured by a nut at the back. In this case, edge slopes away downwards, i.e., if the strap on both sides, so as entirely to embrace if from any cause the gate drops forward, a orthodox shape is to be retained. If the rail and stile, adding to the security of few turns of the nut will, by drawing back this piece is 3in. thick, the mortise the joint (see Fig. 16). The ordinary field the upper end of the hanging stile, lift the should be at the very least lin., and it may gate is 10ft. in length, and the top and bottom! other end clear of the ground. The lower very safely be in. more, for although the VOL. LIII.-No. 1969 sides will be that much thinner, there is ample stuff left, owing to the great width of the wood at this part. It may, however, not be amiss to add an extra in. to the thickness stated, letting the hanging stile for a 10ft. gate be 3 in. thick, which, with 14in. mortise, will leave the cheeks lin. thick. This is, however, outside measure, and is only needed for gates likely to have extra rough usage. The general rule is to use 3in. stuff, and to let each of the tenons or mortises measure of that amount, or lin. Whatever, in fact, may be the thickness of the wood for any structure, is the commonly accepted proportion for the tenons and mortises. With regard to width, a very well-made oak gate on my land has a hanging stile 9in. across its widest part, and 6in. at its smaller end. It is exactly 3in. thick, has lin. mortises, and the top rises 7in. above the upper rail; this being left, not only because it gives a better finish, but beause it prevents all danger of the mortise spliting out by the insertion of the tenon of the top rail. The hinge being also (as explained) driven in at this part, it becomes a matter of importance to leave the stuff as substantial as possible. ما sheet-iron, known as ferrotype plate, which can 25.-Fitting. The height of a gate is usually 3ft. or threabouts, measuring from the top of the The reproducing diaphragm must be of a upper rail to the bottom of the lower one, more flexible nature than ferrotype, so that the but the hanging and front stile project undulations on the wax cylinder may not be below about 2in. or 3in., the latter being cut perceptibly worn away when imparting the vibrato its precise length after the mortise is tions to the diaphragm. The material which completed, to prevent accidental splitting at seems to answer these requirements best, and also that part. They also project at the upper skin. A disc of this somewhat larger than the one which is easily manipulated, is gold-beater's part, the hanging stile 6in. or 7in., and the diaphragm, say 24in., is cut out, and having front one 3in.; but the intermediate dropping placed a thin rubber ring in the annular recess stiles, being mortised into the top and on the spectacle frame, the disc of goldbottom rails, do not, of course, stand above beater's skin is laid concentrically on it, and the forme r. In the sketch of a finished gate again on the top of the skin a second rubber ring -not, however, drawn to scale-various is placed, being, of course, coincident with the measureme nts are added. The bottom rail ring below. The diaphragm cover can now be is made to lie 2in. off the ground, and the placed on, care being taken that the holes in it flat slats are 6in. apart, leaving 13in. above correspond to those in the spectacle-frame, the upper one. The hanging stile is 3ft. because all twist of cover must be avoided when long up to the horizontal cut, and is left 10in. pressed down, or the skin will be pulled in above this part, of which the top rail occu-be held when the cover is being pressed down, in "puckers." The outside edge of the skin must pies 3in.; 7in. therefore remain to the ex-order that the diaphragm may be stretched tight, tremity. Both the intermediate stiles should like a miniature drum-head. The reproducing be cut longer than ultimately required, say, stylus may then be fastened to the diaphragm, the 3ft. 6in., and should be planed up accurately cylindrical part of the stylus being previously square, and the first tenon marked at 4in. from oiled: this last remark applying, of course, to one end, which should be marked top"; the recording stylus as well. then at 18in. will be the top line of the first mortise, which is to be 3in. Îong by in. wide clear, the flat rails just sliding in freely, but not Before proceeding to put in the electro-motor loosely; then set off 6in. and mark a second and driving-wheels, it will be best to fit together, mortise, and again 6in, and mark the tenon. and in running order, the phonograph proper, The two stiles should be laid side by side on that is to say, all the parts above the brass bedplate; and a few hints here, with regard to this the bench, and marked together to secure absolute uniformity. It remains to mark part of the work, may be of use. the front stile and hanging stile; but not a cut ought to be taken until each is tested as to correct measurement. All tenons should be carried through the stiles, as being a surer method, because the mortises are thus marked and cut from opposite sides. It will not, however, matter so much if the two flat laths are only imbedded about half-way into the hanging stile if the lower mortise is cut quite through. The tenons also of the diagonal strut need not penetrate far at either end, as there is no tendency in these to draw out of their mortises, but only to settle in more deeply. After all is put together (a little white lead upon the tenons being beneficial), and oak pins driven in at The repeating lever, having its "shoe" with all the several joints, it is usual to chamfer the small contact lever and spiral spring off the edges or arrises under the top rail, attached, must now be screwed to the motion an also the stiles between the joints, lever. The strength of the spring is adjusted leaving them square for the 3in. or 4in. until it is just sufficient to hold down the lever in contact with the threaded part of the main where the mortises occur. This gives light-shaft, so that when the shaft revolves, the ness to the appearance, and puts a work- threaded semicircle shall follow along the thread, manlike finish to the whole. A spokeshave carrying with it all the parts connected with the is the tool generally used. In cutting the sliding tubes. The necessary pressure of the mortises, much labour may be saved by motion lever on the shaft will be found to be boring with a screw auger or bit and brace, very slight, and therefore the spiral spring may thus removing the bulk of the material, be made from fine hard-drawn brass wire. finishing accurately to line with mallet and Having got thus far with the instrument, the mortise chisel. ́0. J. L. *All rights reserved. It is assumed that the framework has been put together, and has the appearance of Fig. 8, p. 42, all the other parts since described being made and ready to hand. position of the pin which moves in the slotted piece e, Fig. 13, p. 133, can now be determined. To do this, turn the spectacle frame into one of its normal positions, and adjust the screw which rests on the front guide-rod until the stylus is viously been screwed in its place on the slidingabout in. distant from the largest part of the coned mandrel. The slotted piece having pretube, a hole is drilled in the collar on the small tube in such a position that a pin screwed into this hole shall touch the top of the slot. If the repeating lever is now lifted slightly, the slotted piece, by pressing against the pin, will lift the whole of the spectacle frame up, and when the wax cylinder is in place on the mandrel, the stylus will be lifted clear of the wax surface, and back to any point it is desired to repeat from. can thus, when at any part of a record, be lifted. repeating motion is effected automatically while In some of Mr. Edison's phonographs this the machine is still running in the same direction by means of a second threaded revolving shaft, against which can be pressed at pleasure & half-nut. When it is required to repeat any part of the record, a lever is pressed, which brings this half-nut into contact with the threaded shaft, the rotation of this shaft being in such a direction that it carries the nut back, and with it the spectacle frame and diaphragm cells. This automatic motion, however, is not absolutely necessary in such an instrument as is now being described, this being intended for scientific experiments and amusements; but for use in printers offices and the like, the automatic repeating motion is no doubt very advantageous. 66 cut" The spiral springs of the turning-tools should be very stiff in order that in taking a spring of the toggle-joint should also be suffi from the wax the tool may not dig in, The ciently stiff to hold the spectacle frame firmly in either position. A little oil on the spring where the pin presses will facilitate its action. shavings, about 6in. long and 4in. wide, A light metal tray for the reception of the wax should be made to slip under the cylinder and rest on the bed-plate. It may be the same depth on all sides, as it can be put in from either front or back of the machine; but the height over all from the surface of the bed-plate should not exceed 1in. The tray may conveniently be polished and lacquered; or from ordinary tin made of sheet brass, which can afterwards be plate, giving a coat of good japan. In either case the under surface of the tray should be covered with some soft material, such as baize, washleather, or cork, to avoid the polished surface of the bed-plate being scratched. ERRATUM.-On p. 133, Fig. 16, the total length of supporting column should be 3in. instead of 3 in. MODEL LOCOMOTIVE-MAKING. XXIII. Fig. 101. It is customary to put rather HE tender brake arrangement is shown in more work in the brake-gear than I have shown here. This is one of the simplest made, but In putting the sliding-tubes on the guide-rod there is quite enough for the purpose. Taking the bearing surface should be well oiled, in order the parts in succession, we have: first, the brakethat there may not be any wear due to the grind pillar A. This is a piece of wrought-iron turned ing of the bare metal surfaces together, as it is to the shape shown, and screwed into the footvery important that these tubes should not have plate B at the bottom. Its top end is turned the slightest "shake." Before slipping the tubes down to pass through a drilled hole in the cross on, however, the "stop-plate" and "turning-bar C, to which it is secured with a nut on a should be fastened on the "supporting-column.' tool" (p. 133), together with their accessories, corresponding screwed end. The cross-bar Cis Having done this and slipped on the tubes, the It is fitted over the pillar A at one end, and a bit of steel filed to the shape seen in both views. end standards should be secured by the nuts on attached with screws to the side of the tender at the guide-rods, both standards being then firmly the other end. Through the bossed central screwed down again on the bed-plate. The rod is kept from vertical movement by the portion a hole is drilled for the brake-rod D. boss of the brake-handle E, which is screwed on and secured with a nut, and by the collar F. The rod D is made in two portions, the upper part being screwed to move in the bridle-like end of the lower part. The body of the bridle is turned, and the recess for the screw drilled and filed out slot-shape. drilled to fit between the fork of the bell-crank The bottom end of the rod D is bossed, and lever G, and a pin passes through them. The bell-crank lever is keyed, or held with a set screw on the brake-shaft H. This shaft passes across from inside frame to inside frame, and has its bearings in the bosses of the wrought iron brackets J, which are screwed to the inner frames. The lower end of the bell crank is not forked, but is plain, and fits between the fork of the first brake-rod K, to which it is secured with a pin. At the other end of the brake-shaft H, a short lever, similar to the lower arm of the bell crank, is keyed or pinned; this fits between the fork of the first rod on the right-hand side of the tender. This and the remainder of the rods on each side of the tender correspond exactly with each other, so that the same description will apply to those on each side. Hangers, L, are suspended from the inside FIG 105 are neatly made, the whole of the rods will move in unison on the turning of the brake-handle E. Fig. 105 shows the method by which I propose to couple the engine and tender. A coupling screw, right and left-handed, would answer the purpose, but wouldn't look quite the thing in a model of this character. There is first a rigid link, A, secured on engine and tender with pins passing down through their respective foot-plates. The boss for the pin that passes through the engine foot-plate is formed in the casting of the drag-plate. The boss for the pin that passes through the tender foot-plate is a casting, B, screwed to the cross-plate Cat the front end of the tender. The pin is shown at D. riveted or otherwise fastened underneath the foot-plate. The cock for the feed-pipe, and the connection between the tender-pipe and the pump on the engine are shown in Fig. 106. This I have simplified as much as possible without impairing its efficiency. First there is a strainer, A, fixed with screwe in the bottom of the tank, to prevent mud and foreign substances from getting into the feedpipe. This can be made as a brass casting, and the holes in the top will be drilled. The feed-pipe B is of copper tube bent in two directions. The bending shown in the front view is merely done to allow the flange C to clear There are usually three of these connecting links, with slotted holes at one end. The introduction of the spring E and buffers F is a refinement that may be well neglected in a model. It is a serviceable arrangement in practice, lessening concussion when running round quick curves. frames to carry the horizontal brake - rods. Usually these hangers are pivoted in castings bolted to the bottom plates of the tank. If we pivot them to the frames, that will answer equally well. The brake-blocks M are screwed to these hangers with wood screws. The bottom The sheaf of springs E is made as previously ends of the hangers are bossed up, and light cross described in the loco. articles Vol. XLIX. shafts, N, connect these ends with the horizontal p. 105, and is inclosed in the band E'. A pin, brake-rods K, N, O on both sides. The connec-G, passes down through the foot-plate and band tions between rods, hangers, and cross shafts into the casting B that receives the link-pin D, may be made with pins or by riveting. Pins are the more workmanlike method of union. All these light rods with forked ends, being so slight, should be made in steel. If these fittings and secures the centre of the spring in one position. The end of the spring takes the thrust of the little buffers F, which pass through holes drilled in the small castings or forgings H, | the angle-iron; otherwise its position on the bottom of the tank is of no importance. The pipe B is soldered or brazed into this flange C, which is screwed to the bottom of the tank. The other end of the pipe B is made fast into the cock D. The cock is made from patterns, and consists mainly of shell D, and plug D1. The shell is cast with a foot, to be bolted to the plate E that carries the brake shaft. The plug is cast with a stiff stem that passes up through the footplate, and turns in a little bearing, F, that is screwed against the front of the tender. It is opened and shut with the bossed handle G. There is no gland to the cock, but it is made tight by means of the nut H, turned against the face of the washer J. That end of the plug that |