ested of the party, and continued his monotonous tune with mechanical precision. Each guest, whose sole attraction was a feeling of sociability, for there was no repast, nor did he expect it, lighted his torch of turpentine-wood, and retired to his tent or shed. In the morning we started to attempt to cross the river, which was gradually subsiding; and we heard, among a variety of reports, that its passage was now practicable. Riding for an hour and a half, and regaining our track of the previous day, we arrived on the banks of the ancient river Calbis, now called Dollomonchi. Arrangements were made among the peasants for getting us across; the depth of the water, whose stream was very rapid, was found to be just the height of a man's shoulder, and thirteen men undertook to transport us, with all our horses and baggage, safely over. They all stripped naked, except their turbaned head and girded loins, and as each seized an article of the baggage, and shouldered it, they formed a fine group of figures for the study of an Academy. They soon were in the deep waters; one bearing a package on his head, while two others accompanied him in order to steady it, and assist him in stemming the stream. We each followed on our horses, which were led by one man, and guided against the stream by another, and were all safely landed on the eastern banks of this very considerable river. Hearing a shout from our shivering naked attendants, I asked its meaning, and found that they had received their pay, and with one accord uttered a cry expressive of their satisfaction, and hoping God would bless us, for he was good. They all hastened into the river, swimming and dancing, to show that eight or ten passages of its waters had not tired them. I must mention one feature, which, I regret to say, seems to be almost peculiar to these people. We were Frankssupposed as usual to be rich, mylordos: we must cross the river, and had no alternative; we called the people from their homes and work as we passed their tents; no one else had before crossed this river, and these men did not wish to attempt it, nor did they approve our plan; notwithstanding this, no bargain was made, no advantage taken of us, and when all were over, they left us to fix the backshish, or presentmoney; although they received a trifling difference of amount, each man being paid in proportion to his exertions, they all cried out that they were satisfied, and blessed us. April 1st.-An unfortunate date! We delayed proceeding towards Macry, in order to see some ruins, said to be those of an ancient Greek city, whence many coins had been brought it was situated upon an isolated rocky hill, in the midst of the extensive plains of Dollomon. : Our search has been fruitless; the day is spent, and we have found only a few rude stones, which may probably have been the walls of some hold of a robber a few centuries ago; nevertheless in this, as in many other instances, I felt a certain satisfaction in knowing that we have left nothing unseen. I am speaking of sight-seeing; the mere act of travelling in this country is itself pleasurable; everything is beautiful, and much new to an European eye. This valley of Dollomon is perhaps fifteen miles wide, and bounded on the north by a range of mountains thirty miles distant. Its southern end is the sea-coast; every variety of scenery is displayed, from the misty horizon, broken by the mountainous island of Rhodes in the south-west, to the towering snow-topped heights peering above the richlywooded crags of the mountains to the north-east; still richer hills surround the valley, which is too much overgrown with trees and thickets for cultivation. Amidst the rich swampy soil the elm, plane, and peach are almost borne down by the vines, clematis, and creepers; and the myrtle, olean * The pay averaged six piastres (1s. 2d.) each. der, and the pomegranate cover the banks of every stream. The plains, which need much the capital and skill of the Lincolnshire farmer, are alive with the camels, buffalos, and breeding horses, while the large tortoise creeps along amidst the numerous plovers, quails, and snipes. The flowers are less varied than on the hills, and the swampy ground makes it impossible for us to dismount and gather additions to our botanical collection. 294 CHAPTER XVII. INCONVENIENCE FOR WANT OF CORN. ANCIENT TOMBS.-CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.-PECULIAR ARCHITECTURE.-DISCOVERY OF CALYNDA. -NATURAL HISTORY.-TELMESSUS.-TOMBS, WORKS OF ART.-PECULIAR CLIMATE.-HOOZUMLEE.-ITS INHABITANTS.-STATE OF THE ARTS AMONG THE ANCIENT LYCIANS.-DISCOVERY OF CADYANDA.— ITS RUINS.-VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.-HOORAHN.-ANCIENT TOMBS AND RUINS OF ARAXA. April 2nd. But little barley is grown in this district, and none is now to be obtained at any price for our cavalcade of horses; they have obstinately rejected maize, which is the only corn for man or horse hereabouts, and the grass is not sufficiently grown for the cattle to graze. The consequence is, that we are able only to move forward on our fainting nags three or four hours a day: even at this slow pace they fall occasionally, injuring the baggage and causing delay; this inconvenience has just afforded me some amusement, from witnessing the simple habits of the people. After ascending a range of mountains, and descending by a steep track through a highly picturesque pass, we arrived, in four hours from Dollomon, at a beautiful ravine in the mountains, where we found a few wicker huts, and near them for the first time we pitched our tents, in order to depasture the horses on the scanty herbage around us. The huts were searched for barley, as had been every tent on the way; here, in one alone, we found some, which the owner did not wish to part with, it being his last store. Money was refused, but the little stock was at last given to us, as well as some bread newly-baked, and in return we gave a joint and the head of a kid, which we had bought and killed on the road; a little gunpowder and a present to the boy completed this friendly barter, and I just arrived in time to witness the excitement among the half-starved horses, whose impatience at seeing each nose-bag receiving its portion of corn was most amusing. At this little place of Beenajah-cooe we found ample occupation, until it was too late to ramble among the overhanging rocks. We have seen around us for two miles tombs excavated in the cliffs, and one which we passed near the road was highly ornamented as a temple, cut out of the rock, similar to the many I had seen in Lycia, and described at Telmessus. This specimen had triglyphs, and in its pediment were two shields: I regret that we did not make careful drawings of it, but our guide assured us that thousands of better ones were around the village a mile or two in advance. Thousands is in the East used as an indefinite number, but in this instance it was probably no exaggeration, for tombs appeared on every cliff as we travelled eastward up this beautiful valley. Geological causes have generally given the first features to the country; and here the division between the changing rocks was marked by a valley, formed probably in some degree by a river, which almost always finds its course at these transition points. On our left, the comparatively round mountains of a schisty serpentine were stained with an ochry red earth, and wooded with pines; while those on our left were grey, with the silvery crags of the marble range enriched by their peculiar stains of orange, red, and yellow; on every ledge were varieties of luxuriant vegetation. Behind us was the Gulph of Macry, with its numerous grey islands scattered on the blue sea, and the whole scene was backed by the dis |