ventional bar against it is fast disappearing. As for ladies, smoking-a prejudiced opinion is valueless and is therefore best suppressed—but it is a temptation to inveigh against it! After the supper the ability of some one to sing one or two "coon songs or coster ballads sometimes tides over an awkward few moments in which no one seems to know just what to do, and a little later all take their leave, the young women usually with their maids, who call for them.

A chafing-dish supper is generally a pleasant informality, and one consisting of a Welsh rarebit

dish supper

At

and ale, or "golden buck" (a rarebit. Chafing with poached eggs on it) with lager beer, is usually much relished. these informal affairs the servants are not in evidence. Everybody waits upon everybody else. For an elaborate supper, which "gourmets" would appreciate, one may have bouillon, terrapin, canvas-back ducks (or red-heads, ruddy A supper ducks or woodcock) with celery mayfor a onnaise. Each person is expected to

"gourmets"

eat a whole duck, cooked rare and very hot. Champagne or burgundy is served, and the feast concludes with a fruit salad, each individual portion surmounted by a tablespoonful of orange ice garnished with glacé cherries.

66

The

In English households the "supper English tray" is expected as a matter of course. supper- Cold meat, potato salad, bread and cheese tray" with ale or beer, are its usual furnishings.

The usual ball

Suppers at balls and dances are generally served "en buffet." A large table is set with flowers, lights, and many tempting delicacies. The dining-room is brilliantly lighted, the chairs are set against the wall, and on the sideboard is a generous supply of plates, glasses, cups, and saucers, small fringed napkins, knives, forks, and spoons.

supper

Serving the

At eleven or twelve o'clock the dining-room doors are opened or portières drawn, and without further announcement the guests go in and out as they please. Several ser- supper vants are in attendance, who are on the alert to assist the men in serving the ladies, see that no one is overlooked, and to clear away the dishes and glasses that have been in use.

The menu

The menu may be as simple or as elaborate as the host choose. Bouillon, oysters served in any way but raw, toothsome preparations of lobster, chicken timbales or croquettes, lobster and chicken salads, sandwiches, with ices of various kinds, cakes, and bonbons compose the usual ball supper; but salmon with green mayonnaise, terrapin, cold birds, game pâtés, canvas-back ducks, and boned turkey may be added, if one please. Champagne or sometimes light Rhine wines, "cup" of one or two kinds, mineral waters, and black coffee are served. In some houses, the servants are instructed to bring forth a fresh supply of hot oysters, cold game, and salad, with wines for the men who have ignored

their own claims of appetite in ministering to the ladies. The attention is much appreciated when opportunity serves. In a small room, or somewhere near the ball-room, is always a table where throughout the evening a servant dispenses lemonade and punch from large bowls that are kept constantly replenished.

A supper

At a small dance, where the assistance of a caterer is not desired, the supper may consist of bouillon, one hot dish, salad, informal ices, sandwiches, cakes, bonbons, and coffee. Two capable maid-servants

at an

dance

may serve it acceptably.

The most elegant way to serve a ball supper is at small tables, either in a room adjoining or near the ball-room, if the accommodation is A supper served at spacious, or a corps of servants with small tables marvellous celerity carry a number of small tables, already set, and distribute them about the ball-room, dining-room, and hall-way, if necessary. Each table is arranged with lights, flowers, etc., at which four or six persons may be accommodated, and are served in courses.

The menu

The supper may consist of oysters, bouillon, a hot entrée, game with salad, ices, bonbons, and coffee. Claret and champagne are served. The opportunity is favorable for the enjoyment of some fine selections from the orchestra, in total contrast to the dance-music.

The supper concluded, the tables and chairs are quickly removed, and the dancing recommences.

Chapter Tenth-DINNERS

DINNER where the "bill of company" and the bill-of-fare are both pleasing has rightly been called the flower of hospitality," as it is its most charming expression.

Fashion now condemns an over-bountiful provision, and the elegance of an entertainment depends rather upon the choice of the viands than upon the number of the courses. Good taste has always put quality before quantity. The first rule to be observed is not to attempt more than can be done well and with ease.

A centrepiece of flowers, fruit, or ferns, spotless damask, sparkling silver and glass, comfortable chairs, a room not too warm, a few dishes well cooked and daintily served, however simple, a genial host, a gracious hostess, and pleasant people furnish an entertainment leaving little to be desired.

We have begun to recognize that entertainments are intended to be recreations, and several small

dinners fulfil that requirement better Little
than one or two long and elaborate re-
pasts. It is also considered "smarter" SO

dinners

to entertain, and that of course settles the matter.

As "it requires a gentleman to wear a dresscoat," so only people of native refinement are able to achieve an ideal little dinner, for nothing must be overdone. Large wealth is by no means one of the essentials. As entertaining becomes elaborate it provokes envy and criticism, and is a thankless task at best.

A charming little dinner may be given at a cost of not more than twenty-five dollars for eight or ten persons, or for half that sum exclusive of wines, if a salad with cheese replace the game course; or it may be a feast worthy of Lucullus and tax the purse of a Fortunatus.

Choosing the guests

Not the least among the qualifications of a good hostess is to know how to bring the right people together. A notable French gastronomer gives as a rule that the number of guests should not exceed ten persons nor be fewer than six. When the number is smaller there is little sparkle to the conversation, and where there are many guests they are apt to divide themselves into groups, and the gayety that is born of numbers is lost.

Our Frenchman advises a judicious mingling of old and new friends. The old friends identify themselves with their host and have a personal interest in making the affair a success, while the presence of strangers stimulates all wits, and under the "inspiration of a new audience" old stories renew their youth and acquire freshness and interest.