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and some pretty scenery. Nothing can be more wearisome than the German posting. The sluggishness and sang froid of the people, the delays, the hilly roads, the extreme slowness, and the impossibility of obtaining the smallest attention to your remonstrances, beyond having a puff of smoke in your face, is a continued trial of patience. The Bavarian postboys are dressed in light-blue, with white feathers, and a horn, on which they sometimes play a pretty waltz, but more frequently only produce a cracked and disagreeable sound. A great deal of fuss is made about the passports, which are taken from you, examined, and mumbled over, in every town.
Würzburg is a venerable old city, looking dull and deserted, but possessing great remains of its former splendour ; when under ecclesiastic rule. An ancient bridge, with colossal statues, is first passed. We spent the night at an Hôtel which we found dear, dirty, and the eating beyond all description bad. Having discovered that the waiter and the master of the inn understood French, I derived considerable comfort from informing them that we had meant to stay the next day, but finding every thing so bad, we should go on.
Next morning we went to see the old palace, which is of great extent, and from its magnificence in gilding, marbles, &c., is called the German Versailles, nor is it wholly unworthy of the name. The chapel, into which we were first shown, is not very much inferior to the French one. The staircase is large, and particularly easy of ascent. There are various suites of apartments belonging
to the king, the queen, the crown prince, and the queen mother. The rooms of the latter are filled with pictures of her numerous family, but there is nothing remarkable, beyond the length of the vista, and the number of apartments, except an old chamber entirely composed of painted glass, even the ceiling and shutters are of the brightest colours, and the whole has a singular and pleasing effect, being like the finest enainel.
We went to see the old cathedral, which is spacious and handsome, and was once richly gilt. After a hurried visit to a curiosity-shop, where china, glass, cabinets, old silver, and plate were displayed, we recommenced our journey. The distance from Würzburg to Nuremburg may be accomplished in twelve hours, but we determined to divide this, and sleep at Langufeldt, a small dirty inn, where nineteen years ago, returning from Vienna, we bought and carried off all their china, of which they knew neither the beauty nor the value, but which turned out to he the finest old Dresden, and once the property of the Margraves of Anspach. The landlord remembered us all, but was sure prised when shown Seaham, as the baby then three months old.
On arriving at Nuremburg the following day, after passing through a country where hop-gardens replaced the vineyard, we found the whole place in the greatest possible state of commotion and rejoicing. The king held his court there, and the reviews were just over; there had been 20,000 men. Many foreigners of distinction were still there, and several balls and concerts had been lately given. Every house was decorated with blue and white festoons, every window wreathed with garlands, and triumphal arches had been erected, flags were flying, and in short the city was one scene of gaiety. We found rooms prepared for us at l'Hôtel de Bavière, and here we determined to remain a few days.
He had per
Lord L. wrote to the aide-de-camp in waiting, explaining our ignorance of the king's being at Nuremburg, our intention of proceeding to Munich to pay our court, and also that Lord L.'s uniform had been sent on with the baggage, but that he trusted he would be allowed the gratification of an audience with his majesty. To this we received a cold and flat refusal, rendered the more uncivil and unkind, in Lord L's opinion, from the former intimacy that subsisted between the king (when crown prince) and Lord L., and the late Lord Castlereagh, at Vienna, during the Congress in 1814. We found Lord Combermere, who had likewise met with a similar refusal.
Prince Ernest of Saxe Coburg came to visit us. formed our last year's tour round Spain, had been to Lisbon and Tangiers, and expressed himself delighted with all he had seen. going off immediately, to the camp near Manheim, where there were to be reviews of the German confederation troops, about 60,000 men, commanded by the King of Wurtemberg.
The weather being very wet during our stay at Nuremburg, we were unable to go out.
The town of Fürth, close to it, has lately sprung up, and is principally peopled with Jews. A railroad connects it with Nuremburg, and à distance of four miles is accomplished in a quarter of an hour; for eren the railways in Germany are sadly slow. The canal that is to connect the Danube and the Rhine, and fulfil the great scheme of Charlemagne and the favourite project of Napoleon, will pass through this city. It is an immense work, and will cost twelve hundred thousand florins. It appears to be carried on in a noble manner, being formed with the finest and whitest stone. We were told it had been undertaken by the king, who was very eager about it, but that the commercial men had no opinion of the speculation, and that the shares had fallen thirty per cent., from the idea that there never could be sufficient traffic to repay such an immense outlay.
We were unwilling to leave Nuremburg without seeing Fürth ; we accordingly set out by the railway, which runs close by the roadside, and appears to be placed there for the purpose of frightening all the horses that pass near it. I must not omit to record the singular fact, that as there is but one steam-engine, which is always going backwards and forwards, the alternate trips are performed by two miserable horses. Having missed the right train, by delaying too long at Mr. Pickert's, an old Jew, with all the commercial ability of his tribe, who has an immense collection of antiques and curiosities of all sorts and descriptions, we returned with the horses, and were half an hour on the road.
We were informed that there is not a single English resident in all Nuremburg. It is a dull old town. We went over the exhibition, where in several rooms are displayed the various manufactures of the place. The furniture was the best, and rather in the French style ; but in general, the things struck me as clumsy and uncouth. We also visited Bestel Mayers, a sort of bazaar, where I was much struck with the beauty of the toys, every thing being executed in miniature, in gold and silver.
Wednesday 16.-We left Nuremburg. The distance to Ratisbon, thirteen and a half German miles, or sixty-five English, was divided into two days, as the roads were hilly, the carriages heavy, and the posting indescribably slow and tedious. We slept at a clean new inn at Neumarkt, and proceeded next morning to Ratisbon. The scenery was wild, and we passed through a great extent of forest. There is a stone bridge at Ratisbon, the only one on the whole course of the Danube down to the Black Sea.
The inn was noisy and dirty, though the best in the place; but as it was only intended to stay one day, this was of little consequence. We determined to make the most of our time, and setting out early, in a dirty fiacre, drove to Monsieur Koch's curiosity-shop. We found temptation only in some silver clasps for books, and after making choice of a few, and offering nearly half what he demanded, we left him to reflect upon the matter, and pursued our drive. The Rathhaus or Town Hall, has no merit or beauty, but it is of great antiquity ; the dangerous and ancient methods of torture are shown, but we declined the pressing invitation of our guide to visit them. Ratisbon is a curious old town, but sad and deserted; the cathedral is a fine specimen of ancient Gothic architecture; some of the windows are of old painted glass ; but those put in by the present king nearly equal them in richness of colour.
We drove to the Walhalla, which occupied about half an hour, through an ugly flat country. This fine Grecian temple is built on an eminence looking over the Danube, and has a very extensive and magnificent view. It was commenced in 1830, and is to be finished in 1842. The conception is grand, and too much praise cannot be bestowed on the King of Bavaria, for the liberality and public spirit with which it has been executed, with revenues that otherwise he might have appropriated himself. The proportions I regretted I could not obtain, but they are colossal. It is built on the model of the Parthenon, and of the finest white stone, entirely lined with red and white marble, and is destined to contain the statues and busts of all the great, good, and wise men who have ever lived in Germany, from the earliest ages to the present moment. Three stone terraces and a light of steps lead down to the water.
At the adjoining village is the summer residence of Prince Tour and Taxis. The gardens are on the Danube's banks, and the stables and riding-school seemed well arranged; but being pressed for time, we did not delay, but returned to Ratisbon. Here is the town palace of the same prince, who is said to possess immense wealth. It is yet in an unfinished state, and numbers of workmen are employed about it. Some Gothic passages and a small private chapel have been completed, and are in good taste. The painted windows in the latter, though modern, are exquisitely finished, and a fine statue of Christ is here, in Carrara marble, by Dannecker.
We saw a collection of modern pictures, and on returning home we found Monsieur Koch, who had decided on accepting our offer for the silver book-clasps.
The journey from Ratisbon to Vienna being nearly sixty posts, and tedious and uninteresting, we determined to avail ourselves of the steamers down the Danube, which mode of travelling reduces the whole to a voyage of two days. The only drawback is the necessity of rising early, the vessel starting before five o'clock in the morning. On account of the difficulty of the navigation of the Danube, the boats are very long and narrow. Those to Lintz, which is the first day's halt, belong to a Bavarian company, and are certainly interior to the Austrian.
We passed Walhalla, which, when the wooden shed in which it is now encased is removed, will be a commanding object from the Danube. The scenery is wild, and in my opinion much more striking than the dressed and cultivated banks of the Rhine; the steep hills, the dark pine-forests, the high crags, are all bolder, nor are ruins and old castles wanting to complete the picturesque effect, while legends and traditions exist to add to the interest.
We reached Lintz at seven o'clock in the evening, and with great difficulty got some extremely bad ganets, at the inn called “ The White Goose,” for which I was told we paid nearly double what we had previously given for good ones.
The carriage and baggage were removed to the Austrian steamer, and next morning at six we came on board in a most violent deluge of rain. The vessel was much larger than the one of the preceding day, but we found it a scene of bustle and confusion, as several carriages, and between two and three hundred people of all nations, required accommodation.
I was most comfortable in a deck-cabin, with plenty of air and light, from whence I could gaze on the scenery, and unseen, observe our fellow-passengers. A Tyrolese party in their national dress attracted attention ; their carriage was peculiar, and we were told that the head of the family was a chief in his own land. Turks, Germans, and a motley crew, completed the party.
We made acquaintance with the Belgian ininister, who was going to Vienna, and found him a gentlemanlike young man. The rain continued without intermission the whole day. The scenery was much the same as yesterday, and the river, rushing like an angry torrent, bore us on rapidly. We passed Mölk, and admired its old Benedictine convent, which is of great size, and situated on a height overhanging the river. It is a striking object, and must command a magnificent view.
At about four o'clock we reached Nensdorf, and the passengers rushed to the landing, to meet their expecting friends in the crowd assembled on shore. Prince Esterhazy had most kindly sent his intendent, and his carriage, to take us to the Swan Inn in Vienna, where we were to residè until his country-house at Maria Hülf, at ashort distance from the town, could be prepared for our reception. We were driven by the coachman who had served us when we were last in Vienna in 1823.
The hotel was noisy, and though the cuisine was good, we had in no other respect reason to be pleased with our abode. Our rooms were large, but on the second-floor, and we were annoyed with a very bad smell, most accurately described in Murray's “ Southern Germany."
Here we found a letter from Count Michel Woronzoff, and further heard that he was in Vienna, and would come and see us, and talk over the possibility of our going to Constantinople by Odessa and the Cri
Jun.- VOL. LXX. NO.CCLXXVII.
mea, rather than by the Danube. On the one hand was to be considered the fatigue of a long land journey, over bad roads, and with bad inns; and on the other, the damps and risks of the Danube, the changing steamers, &c.
The day after our arrival, we dined with Lord Beauvale. He was extremely kind and amiable, but I was rather surprised to find the English ambassador living on a second-floor, in two rooms. Mr. Crompton and Mr. Maule, the two attachés, and Mr. Milbanke, the secretary of the embassy, whom we had formerly known at Petersburg, completed the party.
It is curious to revisit a place after eighteen years absence, and to mark the change in people. Prince Metternich replied to Lord L.'s inquiries after various people
« Ecoutez, mon cher-les vieilles femmes que vous avez connue sont mortes, et les jeunes sont devenu vieilles. Voila l'histoire."
We asked permission to see our old house, now the residence of the French ambassador, and we walked through all the rooms, so interesting to us from former recollections. It is one of the best houses in Vienna.
The city has been greatly improved; the suburbs have been paved and connected with the town, which of itself is small; the buildings are grander, the shops and magasins more than trebled, and great changes for the better have taken place on all sides.
Wednesday 23.—We were at a great dinner at Monsieur Tatischeff, the Russian ambassador's. He has the spacious hotel belonging to Prince Louis Lichtenstein. The dinner was very magnificent, and I was afterwards shown the armory, and an immense collection of bijouterie and vielleries. We met Madame Narishkin, Count Woronzoff
, Prince and Princess Kourakin, Countess Razumouffsky, and many whose names I did not know.
After the dinner we drove to Prince Metternich's garden, where there was a "reception," he and the princess having just returned from their château at Konigswerth in Bohemia. I own I was curious to see once more this extraordinary man, who has so long exercised so great an influence over European politics, and whose power here seems supreme. Eighteen years ago, I thought him old, but very agreeable ; he was then married to an amiable invalid, of his own age, and had four daughters and one son. Within short intervals, he lost all but two daughters, one of whom is now married to Count Sonder, a great Hungarian noble, who was in England, and for some time at Melton. The loss of his only son, Victor, was a great blow; and when his second daughter Clementine, a beautiful girl, who was painted by Lawrence as Hebe, faded away, his affliction was extreme. He was, however, in time consoled by a beautiful young wife, who was rather looked down on by the proud noblesse of Vienna, on account of her Jewish origin. Gentle and lovely, she lived but a year, and died, leaving one child, a boy. Soon afterwards the prince again found comfort in a third choice, Countess Mélanie Lichy, the present princess. She is an agreeable, handsome woman, and has now three children, the eldest about eight years old.
I found the prince's manner unchanged ; the same peculiar calmness still distinguished him. His form is yet erect, but his eye more