wealthy individuals-mausoleum of Akber-Mahomed Gose and Tanseine-account of that extraordinary musician-luxurious fête of Akber-Mhadajee Sindia's treachery in obtaining Gwalier from the rajah-bravery of some of the rajah's troops-attachment to his queen-and heroic death of that princess-cruel fate of the rajah—Nourabad-occurrences—bridge over the Gumbeer—Serai at Jajew-singular Hindoo tombs-arrival at Agra-dreadful situation of that ancient capital-a chaos of ruin and desolation— Taje Mahal appropriated for the residence of the embassy—that magnificent fabric, with the gardens, fountains, and tombs, particularly described.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

On our arrival at Oojen, the capital of Mhadajee Sindia's territory in Malwa, we found our tents pitched in a pleasant situation on the banks of the Sepra, not far from its western walls. The next morning, the 11th of April 1785, an officer and suitable attendants, came by Sir Charles Malet's desire to conduct us within the gates, and also to view the suburbs. Our first visit was to MhaduGhur, called also Byro Ghur, a fortress a mile and a half north of Oojen, by a road running on the banks of Sepra. At the entrance of Mhadu Ghur, is a large Hindoo temple; the outer walls and towers are irregular; within is another fort, or citadel, of an exact square, with four gates, leading to a palace of good dimensions, in an unfinished state. The Sepra, as before observed, flows on the western side of the fortress, and part of its channel is to be conducted into a deep ditch, now forming round the remainder. It is altogether a place of little strength; the walls and towers appearing more like those round an oriental pleasure ground than a fortification. The whole is a recent work, commenced by order of Mhadajee Sindia, not yet finished, nor likely to be.

Our guides then conducted us to a very extraordinary build

ing, at Kallea Déh, about a mile and a half further, said to have been erected by a king of the Goree dynasty, as a place of luxurious retirement. The Sepra running on the east, in its natural bed, has been conducted by a channel to the western side of the structure; where the stream rushes through the arches of a bridge into two large reservoirs, and is, from thence, led to numerous small ones, with fountains and other ornaments. On the right is a range of buildings divided by arches, each leading to a square apartment, with a roof partly projecting inward to form a colonnade round a fountain and small tank, bordered with chunam. This was open to the sky, while the company sat beneath a piazza round the water. Under the roof, throughout all the apartments, arc iron rings, from which the tattees, or screens of sweet-scented grass, were suspended. These when sprinkled with water, convert the hottest wind into a cool and fragrant breeze. This range of apartments, the bridge, and large central building, form three sides of a square: on the fourth, which is open to the rest, the river divided into five streams, rushes down as many artificial cascades, into a general receptacle, which loses itself at the foot of a neighbouring hill. The central building, immediately fronting this pleasing scene, consists of a square apartment, covered by four domes, but has no private chambers; it seems to have been intended for the duan konna, or eating room; where the company assembled to take refreshment, and enjoy a view of the lake and cascades below. This structure still remains in high preservation; the excellent materials, especially the fine chunam, having hitherto resisted the effects of time, and the elements. In

front of the whole are the remains of a wall, enclosing about three miles of ground; which was formerly a park belonging to this royal villa.

From a Persian history of the province of Malwa, Sir Charles Malet collected the following account of this extraordinary work: "Sultaun Nasir al Deen Ghilzey, son of Ghias al Deen, ascended the throne of Malwa, in the 905th year of the hejira, and reigned eleven years and four months. This prince was tyrannical and cruel: he caused the buildings, the fountains, the reservoirs, and the cascades, to be constructed at Kallea, Déh, and Saadunpore. Having contracted an insufferable heat in his habit, by the use of fixed quick-silver, he had recourse to these watery abodes; there he spent his time, and transacted the business of his kingdom." By this account the water-works and subaqueous edifices are three hundred years old A. D. 1785; and from the excellent state of their present preservation, deservedly claim our admiration. I would remark that the people of India have extraordinary ideas of the invigorating and stimulating powers of fixed mercury. I am told the above prince caused similar places to be constructed in other parts of his dominions; and that there are very fine ones at Mando, about twenty-six coss from Oojen. C. W. M.

From Kallea Déh we returned to the city through the suburbs, where we passed several Hindoo temples, rather pretty than grand; and one most beautiful well, belonging to a merchant of Oojen. The suburbs are extensive and very dusty, most of the houses being built with mud. The city is large, and extremely populous; the streets, broad, airy, paved, and clean; the houses

generally good. The most striking public structures are a temple built by Ranojee Sindia, father of Mhadajee; the palace not yet completed for Mhadajee Sindia; a mausoleum erecting in memory of a celebrated Gosannee devotee; and another containing the ashes of Ranojce Sindia. The two latter, with others of less importance, adorn the bank of the Sepra, from whence several large flights of steps lead to the river; the whole produces a good effect. Oojen is infested by swarms of Hindoo mendicants and a prodigious number of courtezans, of more effrontery than usual; in passing through the public streets the dancing-girls beckoned from their doors and windows, and seemed less under the restraint of modesty than any women I have seen in India.

Oojen is a very ancient city, said to have been founded by the great rajah Bicker Maje, who gave an æra to the Hindoos still current in a great part of India, this year, A. D. 1785, being 1842 in their calendar. The city with a large proportion of Malwa province has been about fifty years in the possession of the Mahratta family of india.

We spent the afternoon at a pleasant garden belonging to Kaunna Khan, a Patan general, in great favour with Mhadajee Sindia, and now with him and the army. It was laid out, like most oriental gardens, in a formal manner, divided by narrow gravel walks, bordered with chunam, on which there was room only for one person to walk; this takes off from its utility as a public garden, for which it seems to be intended; at least the citizens have free access to it during the absence of the proprietor. It contains some remarkably fine cypresses, and abundance of apple-trees, figs, mulberries, and sweet lemons: a profusion of