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somewhat fragrant smell is given out during combustion, which, at a distance, is not disagreeable. Sometimes the sawdust is put up in coils of paper, and is then burned on the floors of the houses. Various species of wormwood are likewise employed for the same purpose. The stems and leaves of these plants are twisted and dried, and probably dipped in some preparation to make them burn.

The moscheto has a mortal aversion to all these substances, and wherever they are burning there the little tormentors will not come. I procured the sticks in question, and burnt them daily, after this; and although the insects were often swarming when I entered the boat or an inn, the moment their “tobacco" was lighted they quickly disappeared, and left me to sit at my ease, or to enjoy a refreshing sleep. Whoever discovered this precious tobacco was a benefactor to his country, and should have been honoured with the blue button and peacock's feather at the least. But I suppose, like all other Chinese discoveries, it is so old that the name of its original discoverer cannot now be traced.

We were now evidently approaching the head of the Vale of Nan-che, and one of the sources of the Green River. The hill from which the town of Chang-shan takes its name was pointed out to me, and in a short time afterwards the masts of the boats and the town itself came into view. Having a strong fair wind, we sailed rapidly over the current, and were soon moored in safety amongst a great number of other boats within a short distance of the town.

CHAP. IX.

ARRIVE AT CHANG-SHAN.

181

The river being no longer navigable, it was necessary for me to prosecute my journey by land. I determined therefore to remain at Chang-shan for the night, in order to make arrangements for the change of conveyance.

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CHAPTER X.

City of Chang-shan and its trade — Land journey - My chair and chair-bearers - Description of the road-Trains of tea cooliesRoadside inns - Boundary of two provinces - Dinner at a Chinese inn - Value of the chopsticks — Adventure with two Canton men -City of Yuk-shan - Its trade and importance - Quan-sin-fooMy servant speculates in grass-cloth - A Chinese test of respectability-Description of the country and its productions — Arrive at the town of Hokow.

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CHANG-SHAN is a city of the third class, and is said to be 140 le from Chu-chu-foo. Judging from the population of other towns in China, I estimated the population of this place at from twenty to thirty thousand. It is built at the base of a hill about a mile from the river, but its suburbs extend down to the water's edge. The streets are narrow, and the shops have a mean appearance when compared with those of Hang-chow-foo or Ning-po. It has no trade of its own, but, as it is situated on the principal road which leads from the towns on the coast to the great black-tea country of Fokien, to the large towns of Yuk-shan, Quan-sin-foo, Hokow, to the Poyang Lake, and even to Canton, it is necessarily a place of considerable importance. Hence the town is full of hongs, inns, tea-shops, and warehouses for the accommodation of travellers, coolies, and merchandise, the latter being chiefly the black teas of Fokien and Moning.

CHAP. X.

TRAVELLING-CHAIRS.

183

On the morning after our arrival we bade adieu to our boat and our obliging boatmen, and proceeded on foot to one of the inns in the city, in order to hire chairs for the next stage of our journey. We did not attract the slightest notice as we passed along the streets, and, as popularity in my present circumstances was not desirable, I confess I felt much pleased at this. When we reached the inn the landlord received us with great politeness, asked us to be seated, and brought us some tea. In reply to our inquiries respecting a chair, he said that those he had were uncovered, and pointed to some of them which were standing in the entrance-hall. I observed that they were exactly like those mountain-chairs which I had frequently used amongst the hills near Ning-po, and informed him that one of them would answer my purpose. This chair is a most simple contrivance, and consists of two long poles of bamboo, with an open seat in the middle and a small crossbar slung from the poles on which the feet can rest. The coverlet on which I slept was thrown over the seat, and my primitive carriage was ready for the journey.

After breakfast the chair-bearers arrived, and we started. A number of other travellers were going and returning by the same road as ourselves. Some of them had chairs like mine, while others had a light framework of bamboo erected over the seat, and covered with oil-paper, to afford some protection from the sun and rain. I found when too late that it would have been much better for me to have had one of these chairs instead of the one I was in. It

was no use, however, now to indulge in vain regrets; so with a Chinese umbrella over my head I jogged along, consoling myself with the thought that, at least, I enjoyed a better view of town and country in this chair than if I had been shut up in a more comfortable one.

I had now passed through the crowded street of Chang-shan, and was already in the open country. It had rained heavily during the night, but, as the morning was fine, the late showers had only tended to increase the natural beauty of the country. There was a coolness in the atmosphere too which was most agreeable. The grass on the hill-sides and the young rice in the valleys were of the liveliest green. Every bush and tree was loaded with heavy drops of rain which glistened in the sunshine. Altogether the scenery was delightful, and, with the freshness of the morning air, put me in the highest spirits.

The road on which we were travelling was one of the broadest and best I had met with in the country. It was well paved with granite, about twelve feet in width, and perfectly free from weeds, which proved, if other proof had been wanting, that there was a great traffic upon it. The general aspect of the country was hilly, but there was abundance of good land in the valleys amongst the hills. It reminded me of some of the pretty islands in the Chusan archipelago. No mountain-passes had to be crossed on our way, for the little hills seemed, as it were, to open up a passage for the road as we went along.

For the first few miles after leaving Chang-shan

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