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Personal Sketch.—Highland Ancestors.—Family Traditions.—Grandfather removes

to the Lowlands.—Parents.—Early Labors and Efforts.—Evening School.—Love

of Reading.—Religious Impressions.—Medical Education.—Youthful Travels.—

Geology.—Mental Discipline.—Study in Glasgow.—London Missionary Society.—

Native Village.—Medical Diploma.—Theological Studies.—Departure for Africa.

—No Claim to Literary Accomplishments Page 1


The Bakwain Country.—Study of the Language.—Native Ideas regarding Comets.

—Mabotsa Station.—A Lion Encounter.—Virus of the Teeth of Lions.—Names

of the Bechuana Tribes.—Seehele.—His Ancestors.—Obtains the Chieftainship.

—His Marriage and Government.—The Kotla.—First public Religious Services.

—Sechele's Questions.—He Learns to Read.—Novel mode for Converting his

Tribe.—Surprise at their Indifference.—Polygamy.—Baptism of Sechele.—Oppo-

sition of the Natives.—Purchase Land at Chonuane.—Relations with the People.

—Their Intelligence.— Prolonged Drought.— Consequent Trials.—Rain-medi-

cine.—God's Word blamed.—Native Reasoning.—Rain-maker.—Dispute between

Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor.—The Hunting Hopo.—Salt or animal Food a

necessary of Life.—Duties of a Missionary 9


The Boers.—Their Treatment of the Natives.—Seizure of native Children for

Slaves.—English Traders.—Alarm of the Boers.—Native Espionage.—The Tale

of the Cannon.—The Boers threaten Sechele.—In violation of Treaty, they stop

English Traders and expel Missionaries.—They attack the Bakwains.—Their

Mode of Fighting.—The Natives killed and the School-children carried into

Slavery.—Destruction of English Property.—African Housebuilding and House-

keeping.—Mode of Spending the Day.—Scarcity of Food.—Locusts.—Edible

Frogs.—Scavenger Beetle.—Continued Hostility of the Boers.—The Journey

north.—Preparations.—Fellow-travelers.—The Kalahari Desert.—Vegetation.—

Watermelons.—The Inhabitants.—The Bushmen.—Their nomade Mode of

Life.—Appearance.—The Bakalahari.—Their Love for Agriculture and for do-

mestic Animals.—Timid Character.—Mode of obtaining Water.—Female Water-

suckers.—The Desert.—Water hidden 35


Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849.—Companions.—Our Ronte.—Abund-

ance of Grass.—Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert.—Mode of digging Wells.—

The Eland.—Animals of the Desert.—The Hyaena.—The Chief Sekomi.—

Dangers.—The wandering Guide.—Cross Purposes.—Slow Progress.—Want of


Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane—Reach the Zouga.-The

Tsétse.—A Party of Englishmen.—Death of Mr. Rider.—Obtain Guides.—Chil-

dren fall sick with Fever.—Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituane.—Mr.

Oswell's Elephant-hunting.—Return to Kolobeng.—Make a third Start thence.

—Reach Nchokotsa,—Salt-pans.—“Links,” or Springs.-Bushmen.—Our Guide

Shobo.—The Banajóa.—An ugly Chief-The Tsetse.—Bite fatal to domestic

Animals, but harmless to wild Animals and Man.—Operation of the Poison.—

Losses caused by it.—The Makololo.—Our Meeting with Sebituane.—Sketch of

his Career.—His Courage and Conquests.-Manoeuvres of the Batūka.—He out-

wits them.—His Wars with the Matebele.—Predictions of a native Prophet.—

Successes of the Makololo.—Renewed Attacks of the Matebele.—The Island of

Loyélo.—Defeat of the Matebele.—Sebituane's Policy.—His Kindness to Stran-

gers and to the Poor.—His sudden Illness and Death.-Succeeded by his Daugh-

ter.—Her Friendliness to us.-Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing

in the Centre of the Continent.—Its Size.—The Mambári.-The Slave-trade.—

Determine to send Family to England.—Return to the Cape in April, 1852.-

Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during Hostilities.—Need of a “Spe-

cial Correspondent.”—Kindness of the London Missionary Society.—Assistance

afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape........................................ 88


graceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains. — Letter from Sechele. — Details

of the Attack. — Numbers of School-children carried away into Slavery. — De-

struction of House and Property at Kolobeng. — The Boers vow Vengeance against

me. — Consequent Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Jour-

ney. — Start in November, 1852. — Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain

Redress from the Queen. — He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape. — Meet

Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami. — The hot Wind of the Desert. —

Electric State of the Atmosphere. — Flock of Swifts. — Reach Litubaruba. —

The Cave Lepelole. — Superstitions regarding it. — Impoverished State of the

Bakwains. — Retaliation on the Boers. — Slavery. — Attachment of the Bechu-

anas to Children. — Hydrophobia unknown. - — Diseases of the Bakwains few

in number. — Yearly Epidemics. — Hasty Burials. — Ophthalmia. — Native

Doctors. — Knowledge of Surgery at a very low Ebb. — Little Attendance

given to Women at their Confinements. — The "Child Medicine." — Salu-

brity of the Climate well adapted for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Com-

plaints ................ Page 124


Departure from the Country of the Bakwains. — Large black Ant. — Land Tor-

toises. — Diseases of wild Animals. — Habits of old Lions — Cowardice of the

Lion. — Its Dread of a Snare. — Major Vardon's Note. — The Roar of the Lion re-

sembles the Cry of the Ostrich. — Seldom attacks full-grown Animals.— Buffaloes

and Lions.- — Mice. — Serpents.. — Treading on one. — Venomous and harmless Va-

rieties. — Fascination. — Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty. — Ceremony of the Sechu for

Boys. — The Boyale for young Women. — Bamangwato Hills. — The Unicorn's

Pass. — The Country beyond. — Grain. — Scarcity of Water. — Honorable Conduct

of English Gentlemen. — Gordon Cumming's hunting Adventures". — A Word of

Advice for young Sportsmen. — Bushwomen drawing Water. — Ostrich. — Silly

Habit.— Paces.— Eggs.— Food ................ U8



Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey. — A Picho. — Twenty-seven Men ap-

pointed to accompany mo to the West. — Eagerness of the Makololo for direct

Trade with the Coast. — Effects of Fever. — A Makololo Question. — The lost Jour-

nal. — Reflections. — The Outfit for the Journey. — 1 1th November, 1853, leave Lin-

yanti, and embark on the Chobe. — Dangerous Hippopotami. — Banks of Chobe. —

Trees. — The Course of the River. — The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the

Chobe and the Leeambye. — Anecdote. — Ascend the Leeambye. — A Makalaka

Mother defies the Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke. — Punishment

of Thieves. — Observance of the new Moon. — Public Addresses at Sesheke. — At-

tention of the People. — Results. — Proceed up the River. — The Fruit which yields

Nux vomica. — Other Fruits. — The Rapids. — Birds. — Fish. — Hippopotami and

their Young ................ Page 247


Increasing Beauty of the Country. — Mode of spending the Day. — The People and

the Falls of Gonye. — A Makololo Foray. — A second prevented, and Captives de-

livered up. — Politeness and Liberality of the People. — The Rains. — Present of

Oxen. — The fugitive Barotse. — Sekobinyane's Misgovernment. — Bee-eaters and

other Birds. — Fresh-water Sponges. — Current. — Death from a Lion's Bite at

Libonta. — Continued Kindness. — Arrangements for spending the Night during

the Journey. — Cooking and Washing. — Abundance of animal Life. — Different

Species of Birds. — Water-fowl. — Egyptian Geese. — Alligators. — Narrow Escape

of one of my Men. — Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator. — Large

Game. — The most vulnerable Spot. — Gun Medicine. — A Sunday. — Birds of

Song. — Depravity; its Treatment. — Wild Fruits. — Green Pigeons. — Shoals of

Fish. — Hippopotami ................ 265


Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives. — Navigation of the

Leeambye. — Capabilities of this District. — The Lceba. — Flowers and Bees. —

Buffalo-hunt. — Field for a Botanist. — Young Alligators; their savage Nature. —

Suspicion of the Balonda. — Sekelenke's Present. — A Man and his two Wives. —

Hunters. — Message from Manenko, a female Chief. — Mambari Traders. — A

Dream. — Sheakondo and his People. — Teeth-filing. — Desire for Butter. — Inter-

view with Nyamoana, another female Chief. — Court Etiquette. — Hair versus

Wool. — Increase of Superstition. — Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and

Husband. — Mode of Salutation. — Anklets. — Embassy, with a Present from Ma-

siko. — Roast Beef. — Manioc. — Magic Lantern. — Manenko an accomplished

Scold: compels us to wait. — Unsuccessful Zebra-hunt ............................. 285


Nyamoana's Present. — Charms. — Manenko's pedestrian Powers. — An Idol. — Ba-

londa Arms. — Rain. — Hunger. — Palisades. — Dense Forests. — Artificial Bee-

hives. — Mushrooms. — Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses. — Divination and

Idols. — Manenko's Whims. — A night Alarm. — Shinte's Messengers and Present.

— The proper Way to approach a Village. — A Merman. — Enter Shinte'a Town:

its Appearance. — Meet two half-caste Slave-traders. — The Makololo scorn them.

— The Balonda real Negroes. — Grand Reception from Shinto. — His Kotla. —

Ceremony of Introduction. — The Orators. — Women. — Musicians and Musical

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