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CHAPTER XI.

Ascend to Nango mountain-Moraines-Glaciers-Vegetation-Rhododendron
Hodgsoni-Rocks-Honey-combed surface of snow-Perpetual snow--Top of
pass-View-Elevation-Geology-Distance of sound- Plants-Tempe-
rature Scenery-Cliffs of granite and hurled boulders-Camp-Descent-
Pheasants—Larch-Himalayan pines-Distribution of Deodar, note on-
Tassiehooding temples - Kambachen village- Cultivation-Moraines in
valley, distribution of-Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation-
Tibetan sheep and goats-Cryptogramma crispa-Ascent to Choonjerma pass
-View of Junnoo-Rocks of its summit-Misty ocean---Nepal peaks---Top
of pass-Temperature, and observations-Gorgeous sunset-Descent to
Yalloong valley-Loose path-Night scenes-Musk deer.

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250

CHAPTER XII.

Yalloong valley-Find Kanglanamo pass closed-Change route for the southward
-Picrorhiza View of Kubra-Rhododendron Falconeri-Yalloong river-
Junction of gneiss and clay-slate-Cross Yalloong range--View-Descent—
Yew-Vegetation-Misty weather-Tongdam village Khabang-Tropical
vegetation-Sidingbah mountain-View of Kinchinjunga-Yangyading
village Slopes of hills, and courses of rivers-Khabili valley-Ghorkha
Havildar's bad conduct-Ascend Singalelah-Plague of ticks-Short com-
mons-Cross Islumbo pass-Boundary of Sikkim- Kulhait valley-
Lingcham-Reception by Kajee-Hear of Dr. Campbell's going to meet
Rajah-Views in valley-Leave for Teesta river-Tipsy Kajee-Hospitality
-Murwa beer-Temples-Acorus Calamus-Long Mendong-Burning of
dead-Superstitions-Cross Great Rungeet-Boulders, origin of Purchase
of a dog-Marshes-Lamas-Dismiss Ghorkhas-Bhoteea house-Murwa
beer

271

CHAPTER XIII.

Rak lang pass-Uses of nettles-Edible plants-Lepcha war-Do-mani stone-
Neongong-Teesta valley--Pony, saddle, &c.-Meet Campbell-Vegetation
and scenery-Presents-Visit of Dewan-Characters of Rajah and Dewan--
Accounts of Tibet-Lhassa-Siling-Tricks of Dewan-Walk up Teesta-
Audience of Rajah-Lamas-Kajees-Tehebu Lama, his character and posi-
tion-Effects of interview- Heir-apparent - Dewan's house-Guitar-
Weather Fall of river-Tibet officers - Gigantic trees - Neongong lake
-Mainom, ascent of-Vegetation-Camp on snow- -Silver-firs - View
from top-Kinchin, &c.-Geology-Vapours Sunset effect-Elevation—
Temperature, &c.-Lamas of Neongong-Temples-Religious festival-
Bamboo, flowering-Recross pass of Raklang-Numerous temples, villages,
&c.-Domestic animals-Descent to Great Rungeet

292

CHAPTER XIV.

Tassiding, view of and from-Funereal cypress-Camp at Sunnook-Hot vapours
-Lama's house-Temples, decorations, altars, idols, general effect-Chaits
-Date of erection-Plundered by Ghorkas-Cross Ratong-Ascend to
Pemiongchi-Relation of river-beds to strike of rocks-Slopes of ravines-
Pemiongchi, view of Vegetation-Elevation-Temple, decorations, &c.-
Former capital of Sikkim-History of Sikkim-Nightingales-Campbell
departs—Tehonpong-Edgeworthia-Cross Rungbee and Ratong-Hoar-
frost on plantains-Yoksun-Walnuts-View-Funereal cypresses-Doobdi
-Gigantic cypresses-Temples-Snow-fall-Sikkim, &c.-Toys

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315

CHAPTER XV.

Leave Yoksun for Kinchinjunga-Ascend Ratong valley-Salt-smuggling over
Ratong-Landslips-Plants-Buckeem-Blocks of gneiss-Mon Lepcha--
View-Weather-View from Gubroo-Kinchinjunga, tops of-Pundim-
cliff-Nursing-Vegetation of Himalaya-Coup d'œil of Jongri-Route to
Yalloong-Arduous route of salt-traders from Tibet-Kinchin, ascent of—
Lichens Surfaces sculptured by snow and ice-Weather at Jongri-Snow
-Shades for eyes..

340

CHAPTER XVI.

Ratong river below Mon Lepcha-Ferns-Vegetation of Yoksun, tropical-
Araliacea, fodder for cattle-Rice-paper plant Geology of Yoksun-Lake
-Old temples-Funereal cypresses-Gigantic chait-Altars-Songboom--
Weather-Catsuperri-Velocity of Ratong-Worship at Catsuperri lake-
Scenery Willow-Lamas and ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim-
Tengling Changachelling temples and monks-Portrait of myself on walls
-Block of mica-schist-Lingeham Kajee asks for spectacles-Hee-hill—
Arrive at Little Rungeet-At Dorjiling-Its deserted and wintry ap-
pearance

358

CHAPTER XVII.

Dispatch collections-Acorns--Heat-Punkabaree-Bees-Vegetation-Haze-
Titalya-Earthquake-Proceed to Nepal frontier-Terai, geology of Phy-
sical features of Himalayan valleys-Elephants, purchase of, &c.-River-beds
-Mechi river-Return to Titalya-Leave for Teesta-Climate of plains-
Jeelpigoree-Cooches-Alteration in the appearance of country by fires, &c.
-Grasses-Bamboos-Cottages-Rajah of Cooch Behar-Condition of people

-Hooli festival-Ascend Teesta-Canoes-Cranes-Forest-Baikant-pore
-Rummai-Religion-Plants at foot of mountains-Exit of Teesta-Canoe
voyage down to Rangamally-English genera of plants-Birds-Beautiful
scenery-Botanizing on elephants-Willow-Siligoree-Cross Terai-Geology
-Iron-Lohar-ghur-Coal and sandstone beds-Mechi fisherman-Hail-
storm-Ascent to Kursiong-To Dorjiling-Vegetation-Geology-Folded
quartz-beds-Spheres of feldspar-Lime deposits

PAGE

373

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS.

Fig.

Page

I. THE DHAK, BUTEA FRONDOSA, AND COCHLOSPERMUM GOSSY PIUM, WITH
THE KYMORE HILLS IN THE BACKGROUND.

II. VIEW OF KINCHINJUNGA FROM MR. HODGSON'S BUNGALOW AT DORJILING,
FROM A SKETCH BY W. TAYLER, ESQ., B.C.S

III. FROM CHINGTAM, LOOKING UP THE TAMBUR VALLEY

Frontispiece.

IV. NANGO MOUNTAIN, FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GREAT MORAINE IN
YANGMA VALLEY, LOOKING EASTWARD.

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196

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232

264

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

1. OLD TAMARIND ROOTS

17

2. CROSSING THE SOANE RIVER ABOVE TURA, WITH THE KYMORE HILLS IN

[blocks in formation]

7. PUNKABAREE, SIKKIM TERAI, AND BALASUN RIVER. THE TREES IN THE FOREGROUND ARE ARALIACEE

105

8. LEPCHA GIRL AND BOODHIST PRIEST. FROM A SKETCH BY MISS COLVILE.

129

9. PINUS LONGIFOLIA, IN THE GREAT RUNGEET VALLEY 10. CONSTRUCTION OF A CANE SUSPENSION-BRIDGE

[blocks in formation]

Fig.

11. LEPCHA BOY CARRYING A BAMBOO WATER VESSEL. FROM A SKETCH BY

Page

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17. HEAD OF TIBET MASTIFF. FROM A SKETCH TAKEN IN THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS BY C. JENYNS, ESQ.

18. VIEW ON THE TAMBUR RIVER, WITH ABIES BRUNONIANA

203 207

19. WALLANCHOON VILLAGE, EAST NEPAL

210

20. HEAD OF A TIBETAN DEMON. FROM A MODEL IN THE POSSESSION OF CAPTAIN H. STRACHEY

226

21. ANCIENT MORAINES SURROUNDING THE LOWER LAKE-BED IN THE YANGMA VALLEY (LOOKING WEST).

234

22. SECOND LAKE-BED IN THE YANGMA VALLEY, WITH NANGO MOUNTAIN, (LOOKING EAST)

237

23. DIAGRAM OF THE TERRACES AND GLACIAL BOULDERS, &C., AT THE FORK
OF THE YANGMA VALLEY (LOOKING NORTH-WEST UP THE VALLEY).
THE TERRACES ARE REPRESENTED AS MUCH TOO LEVEL AND ANGULAR,
AND THE BOULDERS TOO LARGE, THE WOODCUT BEING INTENDED
AS A DIAGRAM RATHER THAN AS A VIEW

242

24. VIEW OF THE HEAD OF THE YANGMA VALLEY, AND ANCIENT MORAINES OF DEBRIS, WHICH RISE IN CONFUSED HILLS SEVERAL HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE FLOOR OF THE VALLEY BELOW THE KANGLACHEM

PASS (ELEVATION 16,000 FEET)

245

25. SKULLS OF OVIS AMMON. SKETCHED BY J. E. WINTERBOTTOM, ESQ.

249

26. ANCIENT MORAINES, IN WHICH SMALL LAKE-BEDS OCCUR, IN THE KAMBACHEN VALLEY (ELEVATION 11,400 FEET)

260

27. BRASS BOX TO CONTAIN AMULETS, FROM TIBET

270

28. PEMIONGCHI GOOMPA (OR TEMPLE) WITH CHAITS IN THE FOREGROUND

286

29. COSTUMES OF SIKKIM LAMAS AND MONKS, WITH THE BELL, MANI, DORJE, AND TRIDENT .

291

30. THE DO-MANI STONE, WITH GIGANTIC TIBETAN CHARACTERS

294

31. IMPLEMENTS OF WORSHIP IN THE SIKKIM TEMPLES.

314

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