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ing the banks, annually cave into the stream, unloosing thousands of forest trees, which are, by this means, drifted from the cold regions of the north, to decay prematurely beneath a tropical sun.

The majority of these forest giants, however, accumulate on sand-bars, and in the "short bends," fasten by their roots and limbs to shallow places, and are soon wholly, or in part, covered by the constant deposit-creating in a single year new-born islands, and turning swamp into high land. Others, again, will firmly fasten themselves in the deep channel, with their trunks pointing up-stream, and then shedding their more delicate limbs, they present the long, formidable shafts, known as "snags" in Mississippi navigation. Other trees, again, will fasten themselves in the current with their trunks down stream. The ever-rolling tide will force them under, until the tension of the bending roots overcomes the pressure, and they will slowly appear in sight, shake their drifting limbs, and then disappear for awhile in the depths belowsuch is the dreaded "sawyer." These last-described obstructions were the terror of the early boatmen of the Mississippi-the Scylla and Charybdis of its early navigation.

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Among other physical peculiarities is presented the singular phenomenon of a mighty river, as you approach its termination, gradually narrowing within its banks. Soon after you pass New Orleans, the soil begins to grow less firm, and the depth of the river continues to diminish all the way to the sea; in the progress of a hundred miles it becomes lost in the low marshes, and all vegetation, except long rank grass, disappears. Here the current, without any visible reason, divides into three "passes”almost undistinguishable channels, which cut through the accumulated deposit, the half-formed soil, and reach out into the Gulf. The depth of water in these outlets, unfortunately for the purposes of commerce, is never great, and constantly varies under the influence of wind and storm.

A vessel, many years ago, was built at Pittsburg, and from that town cleared for Leghorn. When she arrived at her place of destination, the captain produced his papers before the custom-house officer, who would not credit them, observing, that he was well acquainted with the name of every shipping port-that no such place as Pittsburg existed, and that the vessel must be confiscated. The American, not at all

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abashed, laid before the unbelieving receiver | laden with rich stores through a perilous voyof customs a map of the United States, and age of fifteen hundred miles, avoiding whirldirecting the attention of the functionary to the pools, "snags," and "sawyers," and exposed to Gulf of Mexico, pointed out the Belize, and hostile conflict with the savage foe. The dethen carried his finger a thousand miles up the mand was supplied by the wild spirits we have Mississippi to the mouth of the Ohio-then pro- alluded to, and thus originated the keel-boatceeding up the last-named river another thou- men of the Mississippi-men more remarkable sand miles, he reached the port whence his vessel than any other that ever lived, and whose excleared. The astonished Italian, in his amaze- aggerations, physical and mental, have given ment, devoutly crossed himself, and could have rise to the most genuine originality we can been but little less surprised had the skipper claim as American character. kept on with his "inland navigation" until he reached the north pole itself. He did not know that his fellow-countryman, Columbus, "had discovered so much."

Two classes of people originally crowded into the virgin fields of the West. Marietta, the first permanent settlement on the Ohio, was-characteristically of those times-made up entirely of renowned men of the Revolution: officers and soldiers, who, at the close of seven years' privation and suffering, found themselves turned loose upon the world, their private fortunes ruined, themselves estranged from their early and perhaps desolate homes, and to them all profitable occupation gone. Such men projected cities, opened farms, and laid wide and strong the foundation of future empire.

There was another class to whom the excitement of the "war-path" was a necessity, as it was difficult for these rude yet brave men to control themselves so as to perform their allotment of the rough and confining labors of a frontier life. A place, however, was unexpectedly prepared for them, which required all their energy of character to fill, and which blended most happily the labors of civilization with those of the scout and hunter.

The surplus of the rich lands of the West found an active demand, not only at the headwaters of the Ohio, but also among the rich settlements of Florida and Louisiana. A race of gigantic men was required to guide in safety, against a swift-running current, the rude craft

The keel-boat was long and narrow, sharp at the bow and stern, and of light draft. From fifteen to twenty "hands" were required to propel it along. The crew, divided equally on each side, took their places upon the "walkingboards," extending along the whole length of the craft, and, setting one end of their pole in the bottom of the river, the other was brought to the shoulder, and with body bent forward, they walked the boat against the formidable current.

It is not strange that the keel-boatmen, always exercising in the open air, without an idea of the dependence of the laborer in their minds, armed constantly with the deadly rifle, and feeling assured that their strong arms and sure aim would any where gain them a livelihood, should have become, physically, the most powerful of men, and that their minds, often naturally of the highest order, should have elaborated ideas singularly characteristic of the extraordinary scenes and associations with which they were surrounded. Their professional pride was in ascending "rapids." This effort of human strength to overcome natural obstacles was considered by them worthy of their steel. The slightest error exposed the craft to be thrown across the current, or to be brought sideways in contact with rocks or other obstructions, which would inevitably destroy it. The hero vaunted "that his boat never swung in the swift current, and never backed from a "shute!"

Their chief amusements were "rough frolics,"

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that the object of his indignation could be more seriously damaged by an unsteady aim.

dancing, fiddling, and fist-fights. The incredi- | offender's heel, and did this without a thought ble strength of their pectoral muscles, growing out of their peculiar labor and manner of life, made fights with them a direful necessity-it was Cutting off a wild turkey's head with a riflean appetite, and, like pressing hunger, had to be ball at a hundred yards' distance, while the bird appeased. The keel-boatman who boasted that was in full flight, was not looked upon as an exhe had never been whipped, stood upon a dan-traordinary feat. At nightfall, they would snuff gerous eminence, for every aspirant for fame candles at fifty paces, and do it without extinwas bound to dispute his claim to such distinc-guishing the light. Many of these extraordition. Occasionally, at some temporary landing-nary men became so expert and cool, that in the place, a number accidentally came together for heat of battle they would announce the place a night. From the extreme labors of the day, on their enemy they intended to hit, and subpossibly quietness reigned in "the camp," when, sequent examination would prove the certainty unexpectedly, the repose would be disturbed by of their aim. "Driving the nail,” however, was some restless fellow crowing forth a defiance their most favorite amusement. This consisted in the manner of a game-cock; then, spring-in sinking a nail two-thirds of its length in the ing into some conspicuous place, and rolling up his sleeves, he would utter his challenge as follows:

"I'm from the Lightning Forks of Roaring River. I'm all man, save what is wild cat and extra lightning. I'm as hard to run against as a cypress snag-I never back water. Look at me a small specimen-harmless as an angleworm-a remote circumstance-a mere yearling. Cock-a-doodle-doo! I did hold down a bufferlo bull, and tar off his scalp with my teeth, but I can't do it now-I'm too powerful weak, I am."

By this time those within hearing would spring to their feet, and, like the war-horse that smells the battle afar off, inflate their nostrils with expectation. The challenger goes

on:

centre of a target, and then at forty paces, with a rifle-ball, driving it home to the head.

If they quarreled among themselves, and then made friends, their test that they bore no malice, was to shoot some small object from each other's heads. Mike Fink, the best shot of all keel-boatmen, lost his life in one of these strange trials of friendship. He had a difficulty with one of his companions, made friends, and agreed to the usual ceremony to show that he bore no ill-will. The man put an apple upon his head, placed himself at the proper distanceMike fired, and hit, not the inanimate object, but the man, who fell to the ground, apparently dead. Standing by was a brother of this victim either of treachery or hazard, and in an instant of anger he shot Mike through the heart. In a few moments the supposed dead man, without a wound, recovered his feet. Mike had, evidently from mere wantoness, displaced the apple by shooting between it and the skull, in the same way that he would have barked a squirrel from the limb of a tree. The joke, unfortunately, cost the renowned Mike Fink his life.

"I'm the man that, single-handed, towed the broadhorn over a sand-bar-the identical infant who girdled a hickory by smiling at the bark, and if any one denies it, let him make his will and pay the expenses of a funeral. I'm the genuine article, tough as bull's hide, keen as a rifle. I can out-swim, out-swar, out-jump, outdrink, and keep soberer than any man at Cat- The glorious point upon the Mississippi for fish Bend. I'm painfully ferochus-I'm spiling the gathering of the boatmen was "Natchezfor some one to whip me-if there's a creeter under-the-Hill." It was at this landing that in this diggin' that wants to be disappointed in the best market was found for the products of trying to do it, let him yell-whoop-hurra!" the "upper country," and oftentimes there acRifle-shooting they brought to perfection-cumulated a mass of richly-laden boats, extheir deadly aim told terribly at the battle of New Orleans. As hunters, the weapon had been their companion, and they never parted with it in their new vocation, While working at the oar or pole, it was always within reach, and if a deer unexpectedly appeared on the banks, or a migratory bear breasted the waves, it was stricken down with unerring aim.

By an imperative law among themselves, they were idlers on shore, where their chief amusement was shooting at a mark, or playing severe practical jokes upon each other. They would, with the rifle-ball, and at long distances, cut the pipe out of the hat-band of a fellow-boatman, or unexpectedly upset a cup of whisky that might, at "lunch-time," be for the moment resting on some one's knee. A negro, exciting the ire of one of these men, he at the distance of a hundred yards, with a rifle-ball, cut off the

tending for miles along the shore. The peaceable inhabitants residing on "the bluff" ofttimes looked down with terror upon the wild bands of powerful men, who, having reached the terminus of their journey, were "paid off," and left without restraint to indulge their caprices in every form of reckless "rowdyism." Generally, they expended their animal prowess among themselves, but they would occasionally break through the acknowledged boundaries of their own district, and carry the devoted city, so beautifully situated, by storm. Taking possession of the streets, with equal impunity they rode over the law and every physical obstruction; rare, indeed, was it that the police could make any headway against these mighty men. Having gratified their humors, drank up, or otherwise destroyed, all the whisky in their reach, with yells and war-whoops, that fairly

wakened the aborigines sleeping beneath the walls of Fort Rosalie, they would retreat down the winding road that leads to the plateau "under the hill," most likely to meet with a number of their own set and engage in a pitched battle, the Herculean force of which finds no parallel, except in Homer's descriptions of the fabulous collisions between the gods.

False, indeed, would be the supposition that these men, lawless as they were, possessed a single trait of character in common with the law-defying wretches of our crowded cities. They committed, it is true, great excesses in villages where their voyages terminated, and when large numbers of them were assembled together. If they defied the law it was not because it was irksome, but because they never felt its restraints. They had their own laws, which they implicitly obeyed. With them "fair play was a jewel." If the crew of a rival boat was to be attacked, only an equal number was detached for the service; if the intruders were worsted, no one interfered for their relief. Whatever was placed in their care for transportation was sacred, and would be defended from harm, if necessary, at the sacrifice of life. They would, from mere recklessness, pilfer the outbuildings of a farm-house, yet they could be intrusted with uncounted sums of money, and if any thing in their possession became damaged or lost, they made restitution to the last farthing. In difficulties between persons, they invariably espoused the cause of the weaker party, and took up the quarrels of the aged, whether in the right or wrong.

way through the Indian nation, in due time he reached his home in "Old Kaintuck."

Months rolled on, and the time of trial approached. As a matter of course, the proba bilities of M'Coy's return were discussed. The public had doubts-the Colonel had not heard from him since his departure. The morning of the appointed day arrived, but the prisoner did not present himself. The attending crowd and the people of the town became excitedall except the Colonel despaired-evening was moving on apace-the court was on the point of adjourning, when a distant huzza was heard; it was borne on the wings of the wind, and echoed along, each moment growing louder and louder. Finally the exulting cry was caught up by the hangers-on about the seat of justice. Another moment and M'Coy—his beard long and matted, his hands torn to pieces, his eyes haggard, and sun-burnt to a degree that was painful to behold—rushed into the court-room, and from sheer exhaustion fell prostrate upon the floor.

Old Colonel W-embraced him as he would have done a long-lost brother, and eyes unused to tears filled to overflowing when M'Coy related his simple tale. Starting from Louisville as "a hand on a boat," he found in a few days that, owing to the low stage of water in the river and other unexpected delays, it was impossible for him to reach Natchez at the appointed time by such a mode of conveyance. No other ordinary conveyance, in those early days, presented itself. Not to be thwarted, he abandoned "the flat," and, with his own hands, shaped a canoe out of the trunk of a fallen tree. He had rowed and paddled, almost with

thus redeemed his promise almost at the expense of his life. His trial in its progress became a mere form; his chivalrous conduct and the want of any positive testimony won for him a verdict of not guilty, even before it was announced by the jury or affirmed by the judge.

As an illustration of their rude code of honor, is remembered the story of "Bill M'Coy." He was a master-spirit, and had successfully dis-out cessation, thirteen hundred miles, and had puted for championship upon almost every famous sand-bar visible at low-water. In a terrible row, where blood had been spilled and a dark crime committed, Bill was involved. Momentarily off his guard, he fell into the clutches of the law. The community was excited-a victim was demanded to appease the oft-insulted majesty of justice. Brought before one of the courts holding at Natchez, then just closing its session for the summer vacation, he was fully committed, and nothing but the procurement of enormous bail would keep him from sweltering through the long months of summer in durance vile. It was apparently useless for him to expect any one to go upon his bond; he appealed, however, to those present, dwelt upon the horrors, to him more especially, of a long imprisonment, and solemnly asseverated that he would present himself at the time appointed for trial. At the last moment, Colonel W, a wealthy, and on the whole rather a cautious citizen, came to the rescue, and agreed to pay ten thousand dollars if M'Coy did not present himself to stand his trial. It was in vain that the Colonel's friends tried to persuade him not to take the responsibility, even "the Court's" suggestion to let the matter alone was unheeded. M'Coy was released-shouldering his rifle, and threading his

An old resident upon the banks of the lower Mississippi relates an incident strikingly characteristic of the early times. On one occasion, when quite a young man, he was sitting upon the gallery of his house looking out upon the wide expanse of the river. In the far distance was seen, lazily moving with the current, a boat, upon the deck of which was dimly discernible two or three men and a number of women and children, evidently a family of emigrants. While he was mechanically gazing, he observed a rude fellow, just in front of him on the shore, endeavoring, by a series of ridiculous and indecent antics, to attract the attention of the persons on the boat. The effort was quite successful, as one of the men shook his fist threateningly, as an evidence of disapprobation. The landsman continued his performances until he showed a desire to insult the party in the boat. When this was clearly perceived and comprehended, "the man at the sweep" seized his rifle; but the distance from its proposed victim seemed to

umphs of steam in the Valley of the Missis- | Rocky Mountain costume; a gun-case reposes sippi?

upon a bandbox; and a well-preserved rifle is half-concealed by the folds of an umbrella. The volume of a strange, eventful, and ever-changing life is before you, on the pages of which are impressed phases of original character such as are nowhere else exhibited, nowhere seen, but on the Mississippi.

The passengers being usually together from five to seven days, there is, from necessity, en

the happiest reminiscences of well-spent lives are connected with the enjoyments, novelties, and intellectual pleasures of such prolonged trips.

The crowd of passengers ordinarily witnessed on our Mississippi steamers present more than is any where else observable in a small space, the cosmopolitanism of our extraordinary population. Upon their decks are to be seen immigrants from every nationality in Europe; in the cabin are strangely mingled every phase of social life-the aristocratic English lord is intruded upon by the ultra-socialist; the conserva-couraged a desire to be pleased, and many of tive bishop accepts a favor from the graceless gambler; the wealthy planter is heartily amused at the simplicities of a "Northern fanatic;" the farmer from about the arctic regions of Lake Superior exchanges ideas, and discovers con- After the "first day out" genial minds natsanguinity, with a heretofore unknown person urally gather into sympathetic circles; converfrom the everglades of Florida; the frank, open-sation is relieved by continued change of scene; handed men of the West are charmed with the business-thrift of a party from "down East;" politicians of every stripe, and religionists of all creeds, for the time drop their wranglings in the admiration of lovely women, or find a neutral ground of sympathy in the attractions of a gorgeous sunset.

Upon an examination of the baggage you meet with strange incongruities-a large box of playing-cards supports a very small package of Bibles; a bowie-knife is tied to a life-preserver; and a package of garden seeds rejoices in the same address as a neighboring keg of powder. There is an old black trunk, soiled with the mud of the Lower Nile, and a new carpet-bag direct from Upper California; a collapsed valise of new shirts and antique sermons is jostled by another plethoric with bilious pills and cholera medicines; an elaborate dress, direct from Paris, is in contact with a trapper's

SCENE AT THE LANDING.

every "landing-place" suggests a reminiscence of "early times," and varies, without interrupting, the flow of conversation. Groups of persons snugly dispose of themselves under the shady side of the "guards;" among which are often found ladies and gentlemen but recently from the worn-out fields and ruined cities of Central Europe, and they find something particularly inspiring in the surrounding evidences of vitality as exhibited in the rich soil and hopeful "settlements." There are also present persons who have for many years been in some way connected with the river, who have learned its traditions, and love to repeat over the thousand reminiscences that are constantly revived by the moving panorama.

The "social hall" of a Western steamer is the lounging-place, and "the bar" the centre of attraction. However much we may be opposed to the abuse of alcoholic beverages, the

opposition is, in intellectual minds, here often neutralized by the professional manner displayed in their indulgence, and is charmed by the entire ignorance that many evince of any possible moral or physical wrong in their use. To make the consumption of intoxicating liquors a business, and its most minute phenomena, as exhibited by personal experience, a close, scientific speculation; and, above all, to devote the entire intellectual faculties and muscular energy to the one single ambition of consuming the largest amount of alcohol while displaying the least possible physical evidence of its effects, is entirely characteristic of no ordinary specimens of the human race; it is in keeping with the highest display of genius, the most brilliant success in concealing art.

One of these specimens was a tall, gaunt, wiry looking man, who could flourish in the malaria of the swamps, and be perfectly insensible to attacks of intermittent fever. He was unmistakably one of those persons who consider "a barrel of whisky a week but a small allowance for a large family without any

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