horizon. The steep declivity of the plain above stretched along from the northwest to the southeast, like a vast wall, while the moon shone with resplendent clearness from out of the dark blue sky. If striking scenes in nature are fitted to awaken devotion, what a spot this for one who enters into the spirit of the xixth Psalm.

CHAPTER IV.

THE PELOPONNESUS.

Province of ELIS continued--Productions of the plains-Lala-Douca-Plain of Olympia-Valley of the Alpheus-Re-enter the province of ARCADIA-Rivers Erymanthus and Ladon-District of Liodoras-Albanian villages-Langadia-"Heap of cursing"-River Gortynius-Reception at Demetsana-School -Description of the place-Religious customs-Conversation with a schoolmaster-On making the Scriptures our only rule of faith and practice-The Oeconomos of Demetsana-Muleteers-Costume-Food of the peasantryStriking scenery on the road to Carytæna-Cary tæna--Theodore Colocotrones -Mount Lycæus and fine views-Andritsana and its school-Another heap of cursing-Situation at night-Temple of Apollo Epicurius-River Neda-Enter the province of UPPER MESSENIA-Comparative interest of this provinceCustom in relation to the dead-New range of mountains-Convenience of a tent-Scripture imagery from pastoral life-District and town of ArkadiaRoad to Navarino-Philiatra-Reflections on the battle of Navarino-Navari

no-Mothone---Corone.

THE plains mentioned at the close of the last chapter abound in fern. At the time when bread-corn was rarely to be obtained by the impoverished inhabitants of the Morea, the root of this plant was employed as a substitute; and it was found to be a more nutritive succedaneum, than any of the other herbs of the field to which the famishing multitudes were driven for food. On the plain of Lala there is a species of clover interspersed with the fern, that affords good pasturage for the flocks. Few marks of tillage are now anywhere to be seen; yet the grape, olive, and winter grains might be cultivated. Cherry, fig, almond, and walnut trees now grow upon and around the site of Lala. The ruined walls of three or four chieftain's palaces, apparently the only buildings made of stone, are all that remains of the town. The walls of the other houses, about 1,000 in number, being composed of unburnt bricks and laid open to the rains, have melted into heaps of clay. Thus does a considerable town disappear from the

earth in the short space of seven or eight years. Not a dozen families now reside on the ground. Lala was inhabited almost solely by a clan of Albanian robbers, who formed one of those half-rebellious, half-independent communities, that are tolerated by the weakness or policy of the government in so many parts of the Turkish empire. Always clad in armor, and formidable for their brave and warlike disposition, the Laliotes kept the surrounding country in awe. Like most mountain tribes, they held inviolable the right of asylum, and the refugee with them had little reason to fear the orders of the pasha. They took arms early in the revolution to assist in subduing the Greeks, and were defeated by a body of Ionians, and compelled to fly to Patras, while the victors entered their town and burnt it. The defeat of the most intrepid body of Moslems in the Peloponnesus in the first battle between the Greeks and their oppressors, must have greatly encouraged the Greeks in their revolutionary struggle.

Not being able to obtain any bread here, we went off our road to Douca, a new and flourishing village of 50 houses, where the inspector of police for this district resides. He showed us many attentions, and gave us information freely. Having procured bread enough for two or three days, we returned to our road, and had new evidence, in a continued descent of an hour, of the great elevation of the plains above. We travelled down a glen. Much of the path was shaded, and springs fre quently gushed from the hill side forming the Cladeus, which pours into the Alpheus on the plain of Olympia. Both that plain and the Alpheus were visible at 5 P. M., and a little after sunset we pitched our tent between a large tumulus and the "Hill of Saturn." After having traversed the rich and beautiful plains of Arcadia and Achaia, I cannot say I was struck with anything remarkable in the present aspect of this renowned spot. The hills on the north are covered with the sea-pine, instead of the oak, and, at this season, look dry and uninviting. On the other side of the Alpheus, however, they were

102

PLAIN OF OLYMPIA.

verdant, and were varied by green recesses, wooded promontories, and terraces that had their origin in the industry of former times. The Alpheus flows along the southern side of the plain, and its banks are adorned by the platanus. As it overflows the plain every year, the soil has risen, by constant accretions, ten or fifteen feet above its original level, and covered most of the remains of antiquity. A detachment of the French savans were then excavating the ground, and had made some interesting discoveries.

While looking over this deserted plain-for no man thinks it worth while to erect his dwelling there-I could not but compare its present condition with that of ancient times. How changed! Splendid porticoes and shaded walks and groves crowned all these heights, and magnificent structures adorned the plain. And during the games, what crowds, what bustle, what busy preparation; what anxiety, fear and hope; what disappointment and grief; what exultation and triumph; what glory was won, what shouts echoed, among these hills! Here the human body and the human mind put forth their highest powers, and here an influence was exerted upon the Grecian communities, which will never be exerted here again, but which must have been immense during a period of more than a thousand years.-The excessive heat we found in the middle of June, and the troublesome swarms of musketoes, almost the first that had assailed us in Greece, made us leave the vale of Pisa without regret, and admire the athletic hardiness of the ancient Greeks, which could find amusement there in the burning month of July.

Following up the valley of the Alpheus, we soon came upon the banks of the river. It is a rapid, muddy stream, and the largest in the Peloponnesus. The banks are fertile and considerably cultivated. Twelve miles from Olympia the character of the country changes;

(1) I am aware that Chateubriand, on the authority of Strabo, calls the Pamisus the largest river. Mr. Smith subsequently crossed the Pamisus.

RIVERS ERYMANTHUS AND LADON.

103

the pines cease, the hills assume another form, and the mountains of Arcadia appear in front. We suffered much from the heat, as did our animals, and were glad to stop at a quarter past 7 on an eminence above malaria and the musketoes. Near 11 o'clock a man passed on horseback without returning the salutations of our muleteers, who were lying on the ground near our tent-a circumstance which, two years ago, would have occasioned just alarm. Yet we slept without fear or molestation, as we did in every part of the country. Next morning, June 12th, we forded the Erymanthus, or Dogana, just above its junction with the Alpheus, and were again in the province of ARCADIA." After about an hour, we crossed the Ladon, or Roufeas, in a ferryboat. The river is 70 feet wide at the ferry, and just below is broader and fordable. It soon unites with the Alpheus, and is the larger of the two. The latter is called the river of Carytæna, and comes down from the southeast, through a broad, uneven valley between high mountains, composing the district of Liodoras. This district is the ancient Heræa, the capital of which is supposed to have occupied the site of the present Agios Ioannes on our road three miles from the Ladon. From our elevated encampment during the sultry hours of noon, a beautiful country lay open to our inspection, extending from the south round to the west and northwest-a great area, containing hills, valleys and plains, generally susceptible of cultivation, and much actually cultivated. The peasants were gathering their wheat and barley, as in the eastern parts of the peninsula.

The road now led up a long and tedious ascent through shrubbery and oaks. Neither Turk nor Arab foe had climbed these heights. Near the top the village of Paloumpa, with its large, white houses, made a showy appearance. From the rocks above, you look down upon the valley of Liodoras, and the Alpheus winding through it; and a number of villages are

(m) Paus. B. 8. c. 26.