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INTERPRETER FOR THE TOUR.

feasts, and often argued with our boatmen and muleteers on the absurdity of denominating that a fast, which consisted merely in substituting one kind of food for another. The regard he saw us have for veracity in our intercourse with men, struck him forcibly, and he often mentioned the fact by way of caution to our muleteers. He also learned that Protestants make the Scriptures their only rule of religious faith and practice; and at the end of his engagement with us he evidently had a more favorable impression of Protestanism, than at the beginning. But I fear his heart was never seriously affected.

CHAPTER VIII.

IONIAN ISLANDS.

From Corfu to Santa Maura-Historical associations-Island of Paxo-Island of Santa Maura-Amaxichi-Remarks upon the island-Cefalonia-Argostoli-Lixuri-Ruins of Cranium-Convent of St. Andrew and female boarding school-Cross the island-Pilaro-Samos-Remarks on the island and its inhabitants-Treatment received from the Greek clergy of Argostoli and cause of it-Intercourse with laymen-Island of Ithaca-hysical character-Bathi -Fountain of Arethusa-Social intercourse-Bishop of Ithaca-Castle of Ulysses-Detention-Police regulations-Chief occupation of the IthaciansIsland of Zante-city-condition of females-Remarks on the island.

On Friday morning, March 20th, we left Corfu in the government steamboat that plies regularly between Corfu and Zante, touching at the different islands on the route. The day was charmingly serene. The voyage, too, was over waters and in view of shores full of historical interest. Here was fought the first naval battle on record. Here Augustus and Antony contended for the empire of the world. Just above the waves on the left, was the rock of Parga covered with white houses, where expired almost the last remnant of Grecian liberty. Beyond stood the mountains of Suli, and among them a solitary peak shooting above the rest and clad in snow, beneath which the brave but hapless Suliotes once lived.

At PAXO we only exchanged mails, without landing, and of course had no opportunity to examine the island. It appeared to be covered with olive trees.

The sun was setting when we cast anchor in the little harbor of Amaxichi, the chief town of SANTA MAURA; but as the evening was lighted by the moon, we went on shore, and spent a couple of hours in the streets. The town is unwalled, and contains about 5,000 souls. Owing to the shallows in the vicinity, it is one of the

186

ISLANDS OF SANTA MAURA AND CEFALONIA.

most unhealthy places in the islands. In 1825 it suffered terribly by an earthquake, and the inhabitants, since that event, have had the precaution to build most of their houses of one story, and to strengthen the walls by cross-bars of wood. Coffee-shops are numerous, in which coffee is sold in very small cups, and rakia in glasses still more diminutive. The raki was most in demand, yet no one appeared to be intoxicated. Cardplaying was to be seen in almost every shop.

Santa Maura is a mass of mountains about thirty miles long and twelve broad, separated from the continent by a narrow channel, which history attributes (as has already been intimated) to the enterprise of the Corinthians. Oil and wine are the chief productions. Here was the seat of a rebellion a few years since, from which the government took occasion to disarm the inhabitants of all the islands. Since that time robberies and assassinations have been few, and tranquillity, if not contentment, has pervaded the islands.

The boat got under way at two in the morning, and at day-light we were opposite the promontory on the south of the island, called "Sappho's Leap," where that unhappy woman is supposed to have thrown herself into the sea. Ithaca was now in sight eastward—

By ten o'clock we had swept round the western shore of CEFALONIA, and entered the bay of Lixuri, which penetrates the island from the southwest. The town of Lixuri lies on the western shore, and when opposite that, the harbor of Argostoli opens to the southeast between two ridges. No harbor can be better protected from the sea. Beneath the ridge on the right lies the town of Argostoli, the capital of the island; more modern in its appearance than Lixuri, but not quite as large.b

(a) An intoxicating liquor.

(b) Neither contains 6,000 inhabitants. In the island are 140 villages.

SCHOOL FOR FEMALE EDUCATION.

187

Our English friend, Mr. Smithson, took us to Lixuri, and introduced us to a number of his Greek acquaintances, who impressed us very favorably by their hospitality and the seriousness of their deportment and conversation. The town house is the most beautiful edifice we saw in the Ionian Islands, excepting the palace at Corfu. Sixty Doric pillars of white native freestone surround the edifice, and support a terrace which commands a view of the bay and sea. A justice's court was sitting within, and a young Greek lawyer was pleading with characteristic and wonderful fluency and animation. Here, as well as at Argostoli, is a model school for mutual instruction, containing 70 pupils. There is also a private Lancasterian school, at which the parents pay a greater sum for the instruction of their children, than is required at the government schools, and in this the Scriptures are used.

Cefalonia in ancient times received occasionally the name of Tetrapolis, from the four principal cities of the island-Samos, Pali, Pronos, and Cranium. The last of these covered a hill at the head of the harbor of Argostoli, and the entire circuit of its walls may still be traced. They are Cyclopean, and belong to a very early period of society.

On one occasion we ascended the valley that runs up from the head of the harbor, west of the deserted site of Cranium, and prolonged our walk to the convent of St. Andrew, five miles from town. The road was of the best description. The low ground around the harbor had been drained and converted into vineyards. A cultivated slope rose on our right, at the foot of which white country seats peered out from among garden trees with pretty effect, especially on our return in the evening twilight. Leaving the valley, and passing beneath a pointed hill surmounted by an old castle, we reached the convent, where we were affectionately welcomed by the Rev. George Dickson and his amiable lady. These persons are natives of Scotland, belong to the Baptist denomination, and, though unconnected with any mis

188

EXCURSION ACROSS THE ISLAND.

sionary society, came out mainly with the design of improving the religious character of the Greeks, through the medium of female schools. The government gave them the use of the convent, which, after supporting seven or eight nuns, is worth about 100 pounds sterling a year. This enables them to board and instruct girls at a charge to each of only three dollars a month. The school had been in operation but a few months, and contained twelve pupils, two of whom were English and four others had English fathers and Greek mothers. They are taught the elementary branches, with the English language. The New Testament is used as a school-book, but all other books of a religious nature are excluded by an order from the government. The school has a strong prejudice to contend with among the Greeks against female education. The same objection is made to it in Cefalonia, that is common in other parts of the Levant-that it will lead young females into an improper correspondence with the other sex; and the stress which is put upon this, indicates a low state of morals.

At an early hour of March 27th, four small working mules were waiting at our gate to take us, our friend Mr. Robertson, and our interpreter, to the place on the northeastern shore, from whence we should cross over to Ithaca. They were procured for us by the kindness of captain Coulthurst, an English gentleman at the head of the police in this island, whose attentions require a particular acknowledgment.

с

Having crossed the harbor, we ascended a ridge of mountains, which traverses the whole breadth of the island in front of Argostoli, and terminates towards the southeast in a peak 4,000 or 5,000 feet high. After riding two hours and a half, we found ourselves enveloped in clouds, which, rushing by with the speed of the wind, told us of the height we had reached. The cold

(c) This is now called Mauro Bouno, or Black Mountain. Its classic name was Ænos, and from it Jupiter derived one of his epithets. It forms the most prominent feature of the island, and is visible from many parts of Greece.