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founded by a colony of Phocians about 600 years before the Christian era,
Mrs. Netherton and Sophia were greatly delighted with the surrounding scenery, and the interesting objects that attracted their attention, particularly the view of the city from La Viste, and the beautiful and spacious avenue leading to it. On the left was a rich landscape, decorated with chateaux and villas, and on the right, a long roadstead crowded with vessels, the Isles of If, Pomegues and Ratoneau, and farther off, a fine view of the Mediterranean.
Several days were employed in visiting the Library, Museum, the Jardin des Plantes and other places; they were highly entertained with the bustle of the Exchange, which opens and shuts at the striking of the clock by beat of drum.
But none of these sights compensated for the want of that place of worship which they had been accustomed to attend, to hear the word of life. The Sabbath was dull and monotonous, and void, in a great degree, of that interest which it possessed in dear England.
From Marseilles they proceeded to Arles, a town on the Rhone where they inspected the several monuments of antiquity, for which it is celebrated ; among others, the obelisk and amphitheatre. Their next visit was to Montpelier, the salubrious climate of which is universally extolled. Here they continued for some weeks, visiting the cathedral and churches, and making themselves acquainted with the various charitable institutions of the place. The university and the botanical garden, the observatory, and the public library, consisting of nearly 40,000 volumes, engaged their attention; they were much delighted with the citadel, which commanded a view of the town and neighbourhood. Indeed, the prospect was every where beautiful, embracing on the one hand the Pyrenees, and the Alps on the other.
The change of temperature and scenery appeared to produce a favorable effect on the enfeebled constitution of Mrs. Netherton; but although her health was improved, she entertained the impression, that the issue would, at no distant period, be fatal, so far as it related to this world; yet she saw the necessity of using all the means that, under the Divine blessing, might tend to her restoration. She rejoiced that she had a better and an enduring substance, in those regions where sickness was unknown, and health a constant companion. The “ blessed hope” of seeing God face to face not only gave her tranquillity, but inspired her with joy. “I am not at all anxious to recover,” said she, one day to Sophia, “yet, if it were the will of God, I could wish to see you comfortably settled before I depart to my eternal home; but all that is in the Lord's hands; He knows what is best for me and for you. By his kind providence, you have once escaped the fowler's snare, and I trust this is a token for good that He has in reserve for you, one of His dear children to be your companion through this wide world's wilderness, and to rejoice with you around the throne of God for ever. That will be bliss indeed.
"Yes! and before we rise
Should constant joys create.'” Sophia could only answer by tears : the idea of parting with one so dear, was most afflicting, and instead of anticipating such a scene, she endeavored to banish it from her mind, earnestly entreating the Lord to protract, if it were His will, the existence of her beloved aunt, or to resign her to so painful a separation.
After some weeks they quitted Montpelier, and proceeded to Lyons, a celebrated city, situated on the rivers Rhone and Sirone, which are crossed by nine bridges. The interior of the city was by no means inviting; the narrowness of the streets, and the houses being seven or eight stories high, rendered the appearance dull and gloomy. There were, however, many objects that engaged their attention, among others, La Place de Louis le Grand, or Bellecour, which is reckoned one of the finest squares in Europe, and is adorned with beautiful lime-trees, and an equestrian statue of Louis the 14th; and the splendid Hotel de Ville, inferior only to that of Amsterdam. The library is very extensive, consisting of upwards of 90,000 volumes, the public institutions numerous. It is peculiarly renowned for its silk manufactures, in which article an extensive trade is carried on. But that which chiefly interested our fair travellers, was the circumstance that at Lyons resided, in the twelfth century, Pierre de Vaud, the founder of the amiable and pious sect of the Waldenses, who maintained a steady adherence to Christ and His cause, and adorned their profession of religion
by works of piety, notwithstanding the grevious persecutions they experienced. It is related that Pierre de Vaud, who was an opulent merchant, employed a priest, called Stephanus de Evisa, about the year 1160, in translating from Latin into French, the four Gospels, and other books of Holy Scripture. No sooner had he perused them than he was struck with the glaring contradiction between the doctrines of the Pontiff and the truths of the Gospel, and animated with zeal, he abandoned his mercantile vocation, distributed his riches among the poor, and associated himself with other pious men; he began in 1180 to teach publicly, and to instruct multitudes in the doctrines and precepts of Christianity.* Religious assemblies of the Waldenses were formed in France, Lombardy, and the other provinces of Europe with incredible rapidity, and with such invincible fortitude, that neither fire nor sword, nor persecutions, could damp their zeal, or wholly ruin their cause. During the greater part of the seventeenth century, those of them who lived in the valleys of Piedmont, and who had embraced the doctrine, discipline, and worship of the Church of Geneva, were greatly oppressed, and cruelly persecuted by the ministers of Rome. And the few that survived were indebted for their existence and support to the intercession made for them by the English and Dutch governments, and also by the Swiss Cantons.
The indications of approaching winter made Mrs. Netherton desirous of returning home. Like David, she earnestly longed for the courts of the Lord's house, to see His power and glory as she had seen it in the sanctuary. She, therefore, left Lyons in the diligence, and having rested a few days at Dijon, once an ancient capital of Burgundy, proceeded to Paris, the resort of the grave and the gay, the literati, and the nonchalans. Here they were providentially introduced to excellent private lodgings in the house of Monsieur Martinet, a pious devoted Protestant, whose family consisted of himself, his wife and daughter, all equally active in the Bible and Religious Tract Societies, and members of a Protestant church. From Monsieur Martinet she learned many pleasing particulars relative to the increase of true religion in France, and especially at Paris. Several young men had been
* See Mosheim's Ecclesiastical History,
raised up to publish the glad tidings of salvation, and the aspect of affairs was altogether favorable to the prosperity of true religion.
The health of Mrs. Netherton began now to decline so rapidly, that it was judged improper for her to quit Paris, unless there should appear indications of improvement. Not knowing, therefore, how soon her change might come, she reviewed her previous arrangements with respect to her property, and conversed with Sophia upon the subject of her dissolution, with a calmness that attested her sure and certain hope of an inheritance incorruptible, unfading, everlasting. “The property I leave you, dear Sophia,” said she, “if managed with prudence and economy, will not only be equal to your support, but enable you to give something to feed the hungry, and clothe the naked, and aid the objects of benevolence. All will be in your power while you remain unmarried, and, then I have so arranged, that your future husband shall receive a certain portion, and the remainder be secured to you during your life. I leave you an orphan, but not comfortless: you have a Friend that careth for you and will never leave you nor forsake you: trust Him, and live to Him, and you will find, as I have done, comfort in affliction, counsel in difficulty, and protection in danger.” Sophia was greatly affected while Mrs Netherton made this disclosure, and, in broken accents, expressed her thanks for all the disinterested kindness of her benevolent aunt. They found Monsieur Martinet extremely kind and attentive, in conducting them to the different places which are usually visited by les etrangers. They were much pleased with the Jardin des Plantes, and delighted with the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise, the site of which is a commanding eminence, called Mont Louis, to the north of the city, and covers a considerable extent of ground, the surface of which is irregular and serpentine, and shaded in many places by trees. Winding gravel walks divide it into plots of graves and tombstones, each the property of a family, and each stone is at the head of a bed of flowers, surrounded by a light hedge or trellis-work. Here they wandered for some time indulging a melancholy pleasure, while reading the superscriptions, and marking the pots de fleurs, garlands, and offerings, suspended on the different tombs.
After visiting the Hospital des Invalides and the Champ de Mars, they repaired to the Palace of the Tuilleries, so called, it is said, because a tile-kiln formerly stood on the site where it is erected. This palace was begun in 1564, and afterwards enlarged by Henry IV, who, in 1600, began the grand gallery which joins it to the Louvre. In the Council-chamber of the Tuilleries is a globe, and also a curious clock, that shows the time of day in every part of the Northern hemisphere. The gardens are always open to the public, and are adorned with many fine statues, bronzes, and casts. One of the walks is decorated with a long range of large orange trees.
In the great museum of the Louvre, they saw what is esteemed the finest collection of works of art in Europe. It consists of three principal divisions, the first containing the statues, the second the pictures, and the third the designs. On the ground floor is the museum of antiques, on the first floor the drawings, and the paintings occupy the saloon and the grand gallery that unites the Louvre to the Tuilleries.
The Boulevards occupy the space originally appropriated to the defence of the city, and form wide and magnificent streets, in the centre of which is an unpaved road, with a row of lofty trees on each side, and next to the houses, wide gravel walks for the accommodation of the public. They next visited the splendid manufactory of Porcelain at Sevres, about three miles from Paris, and after seeing the superb brass column in the Place Vendome, and the triumphal arch in the Place du Carousel, they prepared for their return to their beloved country, amidst the deep regrets of Monsieur and Madame Martinet, who were delighted and profited by the pious and instructive conversation of Mrs. Netherton and her niece. It was however, deemed advisable to consult an eminent physician at Paris, upon Mrs. Netherton's complaint. The result of this visit was so satisfactory as to allow her to encourage a gleam of hope that the prescription of M. de Noailles might prove beneficial, and their departure from the French capital was consequently for some time delayed. In three weeks there was an evident improvement in her health, and by the Divine blessing, she was, in a fortnight afterwards, allowed to return to England, where she was to pursue the course directed by Monsieur de Noailles and avail herself of his prescription. They accordingly proceeded by the usual route to Dieppe, and arrived safely at Brighton, in the multitude of preserving and protecting mercies. As their lodgings were near the Esplanade, they had a delightful view of the ocean, which they surveyed with