Even to-day Moyobamba covers nearly as much ground as Lima, though its population is but a small fraction of that of the City of the Kings. Although comprising fewer than five thousand permanent residents, it has the proportions of a great city. Its streets are broad and ample; its homes have each a spacious garden adapted to yield the choicest produce of tropical and temperate zones. Grapes are here that rival the best of Italy; citrous products, in profusion, that equal the choicest of Cuba or Mexico. And as I contemplated the splendors of flower and fruit; the lilac and magenta of the orchid; the purple of the grape and the gold of the orange, I was minded of Goethe's graphic word-picture of Sokontala. How well, indeed, it would portray Moyobamba, if Nature's lavish prodigality were even but feebly seconded by the industry of man. Thus sings the poet: "Willst du die Blüthe des Frühen, die Früchte des Späteren Yahres, Willst du was reizt und entzückt, willst du was sättigt und nähst, Willst du den Himmel, die Erde mit einem Namen begreifen; Nenn' ich Sakontala, Dich, und so ist alles gesagt."'1 Goethe's illustrious countryman, Alexander von Humboldt, in speaking of the future of the Amazon basin, declared, "It is there that the civilization of the globe will be one day concentrated."2 Had he explored the eastern versant of the Andes from the Pongo de Manseriche to the southern border of the Pampa del Sacramento, he would, I doubt not, have located the capital of the world's future civilization in the neighborhood of the Peruvian Sakontala -fairest Muyapampa. 1"Wouldst thou the blossoms of spring, as well as the fruits of the autumn, Wouldst thou what charms and delights, wouldst thou what plenteously feeds, Wouldst thou include both heaven and earth in one designation, 2 "C'est là que tot ou tard, la civilization du globe doit se concentrer un jour." Contemplating this luxurious Eden-Eden suntuosathe Peruvian poet Pardo y Alliago exclaims: "Does not such a profusion of gifts, such richness, evince that the will of God holds centuries of felicity and greatness in reserve for Peru? But to combat our negligence, He prudently reserved the completion of His work and made the harvesting of the heaven-given fruit contingent on the desire of man." 1 The day will come, and it may not be far distant, when the dream of the poet shall be realized; when the prophecy of the man of science shall be fulfilled; when rehabilitated Moyobamba, fertile in harvests and flocks, shall be an emporium of earth's bounty and a Paradise of Delights. 1"Tal profusion de dones, tal ríqueza, La voluntad de Dios no hacen patente Mas para combatir nuestra tibieza El Peru. CHAPTER XX TRAMPING THROUGH A TROPICAL FOREST The days passed so quickly and pleasantly in Moyobamba that I was scarcely aware of the flight of time. The prefect was a capital entertainer as well as a most genial host. But he was more than that. While I was enjoying to the fullest, his bountiful hospitality, he was quietly, but without my knowledge, giving directions regarding my journey to Yurimaguas. The first part of it-to Balsapuerto-was through the dense, uninhabited forests of the montaña. This, with the exception of the first day's journey, had to be made afoot; for the greater part of the trail is impassable for horses or mules. The time usually allowed for the trip is five or six days. In the case of heavy rains and swollen rivers, a longer time is required. From Balsapuerto to Yurimaguas the traveler goes by water in a dugout, and can, when going down stream, cover the distance between the two places in two or three days. Although I had brought with me from Lima a liberal supply of provisions for our journey through this part of the montaña, the prefect was determined that there should be nothing wanting that could contribute to our comfort and enjoyment. Accordingly, when the day of departure came, I found before the prefectura a dozen cargueroscholos and Indians-who were to transport my baggage and the extra store of provisions that the prefect had ordered for the party. In addition to the cargueros there were five soldiers in charge of the bright and gallant young officer who had, as the prefect's representative, come out to meet me as I was approaching Moyobamba. These men were to serve as my escort, to look after my tent, the preparation of meals, and the general welfare of the party during their march through the wilderness. "These officers and soldiers," said the prefect, "are at your disposition as long as they can be of any service to you. They have orders to accompany you to Iquitos and, if you desire it, they may go with you to New York." From what I had heard about the difficulties and dangers and delays of the journey between Moyobamba and Iquitos, I had looked forward to this part of my transcontinental trip with some degree of apprehension. When, however, I saw all that the thoughtful and generous prefect had done to minimize any possible difficulties or delays, any apprehensions I may have entertained were instantly dissipated and I now looked forward to the time to be spent in the forest and in the dugout on the tributaries of the Huallaga, as days of genuine pleasure and rarest delight. And as the sequel will show, I was not disappointed. As had been done at Cajamarca, Chachapoyas and elsewhere, the prefect, his staff and a number of friends accompanied me several miles before saying farewell. But before he left us, he wished to assure himself that all his instructions had been carried out, and, being satisfied on this score, he called the officer in charge and the chief of the cargueros before him, and in the most earnest manner commended to their care and attention his departing guest. Indeed, had I been his own brother, he could not have been more considerate or generous, and as he pronounced the final words, "Adios, el cielo vaya con Ud," I felt that I was taking leave of one who possessed in an eminent degree "all the blazon of a gentleman.' Soon after leaving my noble host, we were in the heart of the forest primeval-the German Urwald-and could, with little flight of fancy, imagine we were traversing the dark and trackless woods of the fore-world. Hour after hour we marched in single file over the narrow, and at times, imperceptible trail. Scarcely a word was spoken. The Indians of the party were naturally quiet and rarely had anything to say, while my escort, probably divining my wish to be left in undisturbed communion with Nature in her mysterious and majestic sanctuary, did not make any attempt to engage me in conversation unless I spoke first. Then they were all courtesy and readily proffered all information and assistance in their power. We stopped about noonday for luncheon, after which we pushed forward as rapidly as the condition of the trail would permit. It was over a succession of steep hills and deep ravines, and at times, by reason of much fallen timber, our progress was exceedingly slow. Fortunately, the weather from early morning until about the middle of the afternoon was all that could have been desired. The temperature was mild and the sky overhead was clear, although rarely visible on account of the thick canopy of foliage that concealed it from view. But suddenly, dark lowering clouds appeared in front of us, and, almost before I could unstrap my poncho, the rain was falling in torrents. This forcibly brought to mind the fact, so frequently observed in the tropics, that a clear sky and a transparent atmosphere are no index of a rainless day. For frequently the heavens may be bright and cloudless in the morning, and a few hours later there will be a heavy downpour. This circumstance has given rise in Peru to the popular saying, Finally, after a hard day's ride, we arrived at our stoping-place for the evening. We were seven and a half leagues from Moyobamba, and had made what my escort called a jornada grande-a long journey-so long that travelers usually give two days to it. 1 "Distrust a mountain sky, a limping dog, and a woman's tears.” |