CHAPTER III.

Grennah. - Arab Conversation. Fountain of Cyre. Ruins of Cyrene. Interrupted by Bedawin.-Ruins of a Theatre.-Basreliefs.—Inscriptions.-Terraces.-Temple of Esculapius.—Aqueduct.-Cyrene's History unknown.-Its Ruinous state.

My first day in Grennah was entirely occupied in the very matter of fact, but not less necessary, employment of arranging my encampment, whilst Mohammed was equally busy in receiving the visits of his Arab friends, in whose society he entirely forgot me; he seemed to imagine that he was making a tour of pleasure with the Frank in his suite, not that he was in the service of the Frank. He took possession of the Grotto of the Fountain, and established himself on sundry mats and carpets in a part which is now dry. I also went there for shelter from the hot sun, while my larger tent was being prepared; and sat by the bubbling water, out of reach of the Bedawin and their fleas, but close enough to hear the Babel-screaming of their

conversation, and to be amused by its monotony. The Arabs are great talkers, but the range of their ideas is remarkably limited, so that the day is often passed in an unceasing repetition of the same words. I noted down such a conversation, and, as a favourable specimen of causerie, I transcribe it here. There arrived. a gray-bearded old Bedawy, with a long gun, and pistols in his belt, but in all other respects a striking contrast to the city brave whom he had come to see. As he came up, he pronounced, "Es-selam alaik" ("Peace be with you"); receiving a long, drawling answer, "Alaik es-selam" ("With you be peace"). He then went up to Mohammed, and touched his right hand, whereon each kissed the palm of his own hand; he then literally fell on Mohammed's neck, and kissed it on the right side, just below the whisker—a salute which was immediately returned. Now began a rolling fire of questions and answers, in such quick succession, that it required a practised ear to follow their meaning; neither party seeming to pay attention to question or answer-both being already, no doubt, aware of their import. After repeating the words, "Es-selam," several times, then came the inquiry, "How is your state? How are you? How is your humour?" The answer was, "May your state be peaceful;" or "Praise be to God;"-an answer, generally, given only to very pointed inquiries after health.

Chap. III. GRENNAH.-ARAB CONVERSATION.

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These questions were repeated three or four times. Then again, "Es-selam, How is your state? how is your humour? how is the state behind you?"-meaning the family left at home. Again, “Es-selam, How is your state? how is the state of your house (wife)?” Again, "Es-selam, How is the state of your children?" and so continually with the same words, varying the final interrogatory by asking after his brother, and his mare, and his cows, and his sheep,-in fine, after all things that are his, down to the most insignificant of his possessions; each being the object of a particular inquiry. Next came the gist of the conversationhalf an hour having been, perhaps, thus passed in preliminaries which affected the value of the inquirer's own possessions, for the child of Nature has a keen eye to business. What is the price of corn in Benghazi?"—then a string of salams. Presently he asks what barley is selling at, and then follow renewed inquiries after his friend's state and humour; as if the fatigue of answering so many questions may have altered them. When reassured on this point, he slips in an inquiry, "How much do oxen fetch ?" and if he be a keen politician he next attacks the local news: "Why has the Pacha come to Benghazi?" "Is the Bey going to be dismissed?" "Is it true that there is war with the French in Tripoli ?" and so on he questions; but the great point of interest is the

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