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little party at the minute and By nine we had emerged inaccessible village of Bökpyin, from the narrows into the to which the Burman had heart of the Mergui Arohipelbeon “relegated” as Town- ago, a vast collection of abrupt, ship Officer. Bebind it rise insorutable islands, of every high ridges of pathless and shape and size-from mere impenetrable jungle, which rooks to peaks of 2000 feet. send down small river They stretched away all round through dense green

denge green walls us under the blinding sun into of forest to the muddy sea. the blue distance, stifled with Unless the Mercury happens jungle, distorted by mirage, to put in, there is no com- and with overpowering munioation with the outside effeot, not so much of Sleeping world.

Beauty as of Death. For this I was roused at 4.30 by the was primeval Nature: they anobor obain being wound had never been alive, never round the dram of my ear, been oalled into full being by and at five we started in a human 2880oiation and human marvellous dawn. The Mer. history. Save for the soores cury is a glorified steam-launch of jelly-fish, looking like paraof 80 feet or so, with a 6-foot ohutes attached to oauliflowers, draught. She is a good sed- for a few diving sea-birds, and boat, despite the seventeen for the incessant little boilings patches alleged to adorn her of the water that ejeoted a boiler; ber

was flying-fish and told of the rediverted to Basra for the lentless and unceasing struggle Inland Water Transport. below the surface, we deOar way lay at first through tected no trace of life all day. an unending lake, bordered As I saw the Archipelago with yellow.green mangrove two years ago, so it was a swamps seamed with noisome thousand years before, and is little ohannels wriggling away to-day,- & scene of ethereal into the solid forest wall be- beauty, but, to the civilised hind. Above them rose oon- oye, inhuman, siderable red - soiled hills, One human association, howcovered with jungle.

We ever, I did discover, when I had passed & few tiny hamlets, made friends with the big comeach with its long fish-stook- petent Chittagonian "serang," ade in the water off shore, con- and joined him on his little sisting of two converging lines bridge. He knew every obannel of vertioal bamboos, whose in his head, so I was free to oscillations suffioe to frighten pore over his entrancing old the fish from escaping between chart, and to find that all these the poles, and pass them gently islands have most Stevensonian on from one to another till names : the Sugarloaf, the they are imprisoned at the Canister, the Five Sisters. apex in a funnel-shaped net, Better still were the notes : surmounted by a tiny hut "Fool ground,” “Black Rook perohed precariously above. visible 8 miles," "Several rooks

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hero unoovored at low water,” cocoanats, and enjoyed one of “Good anohorage reported on the sunsets for which the Arobithis coast”-delightfully vague pelago is famous. At Bökpyin those last; while, for irony, I there was nothing more to see. found at one spot in this wilder- Next day we had another ness the legend “Thinly popu- long steam of ten hours. The lated"; and for sheer romance, soonery in this southern section just behind it, “High Land on of the Arohipelago is more the Main."

open, and the oppression was Towards evening we passed relieved by a few deep-red sails. Boat Island, steered on the At four wo anchored off the White Rook, bumped on the jetty at Viotoria Point. The bar, and anchored in the creek officer in whose relief I had of Bökpyin. I took & stioky come did the honours of the walk of half a mile to the end dak-bungalow, and when the of all things, where the jungle Mercury took him away next stands ready to be “let in,' day I was left, exoept for an watched a tree - trunk being officer of police and his wife, as ohipped and prized open to the sole European resident of form a dag-out, bought some the station.

II.

Viotoria Point lies on the store is kept by Boon Teck, a last southerly tip of Burma, delightful Chinaman, once a

high narrow promontory journalist in the Federated pointing due south. West and Malay States, and for seven south are islands and tide- years oo-lodger in London with races; north, a road leads up a small girl now world-famous towards Māliwūn, 25 miles through her conneotion with away, but after the tenth British tooth-powder and its mile is dereliot; east is the artistio ally, the Musical estuary of the Păkobān river, Comedy Stage: to Boon Teok and beyond it, four or five her oareer is a source of intense miles off, is Siam. Immedi- gratification. North of Repong ately opposite Viotoria Point is the Isthmus of Kra, destined is the mouth of the Renong some day to be world-famous river, on which lies Renong, a too, through a ship canal; small ramshackle town com- south, the bigb bare ooast runs posed of Siamese officials and down past other gravel - tin soldiers under a half-Chinese dredgers at Ngow and Ratrūt, governor,

English tin- to Pukét, Penang, Singapore, dredging company, and an and the Equator. ambiguous conglomerate of Life at Victoria Point was Burmese and Malays and non- simple. My abode was a threedescripts who oarry on all the roomed dak-bungalow, raised business there is. There are a dozen feet off the ground on no Siamese shops: the chief wooden legs. My staff con

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little party at the minute and By nine we had emerged inaccessible village of Bökpyin, from the narrows into the to which the Burman had heart of the Mergai Arobipelbeen “relegated” as Town- ago, a vast colleotion of abrupt, ship Officer. Behind it rise insoratable islands, of every high ridges of pathless and shape and size-from mere impenetrable jungle, which rooks to peaks of 2000 feet. Bend down small river They stretched away all round through dense green walls us under the blinding sun into of forest to the muddy sea. the blue distance, stified with Unless the Mercury happens jungle, distorted by mirage, to put in, there is no and with overpowering munioation with the outside effeot, not so much of Sleeping world.

Beauty as of Death. For this I was roused at 4.30 by the was primeval Nature: they anchor obain being wound had never been alive, never round the drum of my ear, been called into full being by and at five we started in & human association and human marvellous dawn. The Mer. history. Save for the scores cury is a glorified steam-launch of jelly-fish, looking like paraof 80 feet or so, with a 6-foot chutes attached to oauliflowers, draught. She is a good sea- for a few diving sea-birds, and boat, despite the seventeen for the incessant little boilings patches alleged to adorn her of the water that ejected a boiler; her

was flying-fish and told of the rediverted to Basra for the lentless and unceasing struggle Inland Water Transport. below the surface, we Oar way lay at first through teoted no trace of life all day. an unending lake, bordered As I saw the Arohipelago with yellow.green mangrove two years ago, so it was a swamps seamed with noisome thousand years before, and is little ohannels wriggling away to-day,- & scene of ethereal into the solid forest wall be- beauty, but, to the civilised hind. Above them rose oon

eye, inhuman. siderable red - soiled hills, One human association, howcovered with jungle. We ever, I did discover, when I had passed a few tiny hamlets, made friends with the big comeach with its long fish-stook- petent Chittagonian "Berang," ade in the water off shore, con- and joined him on his little sisting of two converging lines bridge. He knew every obannel of vertical bamboos, whose in his head, so I was free to oscillations suffice to frighten pore over his entrancing old the fish from escaping between chart, and to find that all these the poles, and pass them gently islands have most Stevensonian on from one to another till names: the Sugarloaf, the they are imprisoned at the Canister, the Five Sisters. apex in a funnel-shaped net, Better still were the potes : surmounted by a tiny hut “Foul ground,” “Black Rook perohed precariously above. visible 8 miles," “Several rooks

Dew

one

here unoovered at low water," 0000anuts, and enjoyed one of “Good anohorage reported on the sunsets for which the Arohi. this ooast”-delightfully vague pelago is famous. At Bökpyin those last; while, for irony, I there was nothing more to see. found at one spot in this wilder- Next day we had another ness the legend “Thinly popu- long steam of ten hours. The lated”; and for sheer romance, soonery in this southern seotion just behind it, “High Land on of the Arohipelago is more the Main."

open, and the oppression was Towards evening we passed relieved by a few deep-red sails. Boat Island, steered on the At four we anobored off the White Rook, bumped on the jetty at Vietoria Point. The bar, and &nohored in the oreek officer in whose relief I had of Bökpyin. I took a sticky come did the honours of the walk of half a mile to the end dak-bungalow, and when the of all things, where the jungle Mercury took him away next stands ready to be “let in," day I was left, except for an watohed a tree - trunk being officer of police and his wife, as ohipped and prized open to the sole European resident of form a dug-out, bought some the station.

II.

Viotoria Point lies on the store is kept by Boon Teok, a last southerly tip of Burma, delightful Chinaman, onoe & high narrow promontory journalist in the Federated pointing due south. West and Malay States, and for seven south are islands and tide- years oo-lodger in London with races ; north, a road leads up a small girl now world-famous towards Māliwūn, 25 miles through her connection with away, but after the tenth British tooth-powder and its mile is dereliot; east is the artistio

ally, the Musical estuary of the Păkobān river, Comedy Stage: to Boon Teok and beyond it, four or five her oareer is a source of intense miles off, is Siam. Immedi- gratifioation. North of Renong ately opposite Viotoria Point is the Isthmus of Kra, destined is the mouth of the Renong some day to be world-famous river, on whioh lies Renong, a too, through

too, through & ship banal; small ramshackle town oom- south, the bigb bare coast runs posed of Siamese officials and down past other gravel - tin soldiers under a half-Chinese dredgers at Ngow and Ratrūt, governor, an English tin- to Pukét, Penang, Singapore, dredging company, and

and an and the Equator. ambiguous conglomerate of Life at Victoria Point was Burmese and Malays and non- simple. My abode was a threedescripts who oarry on all the roomed dak-bungalow, raised business there is. There are a dozen feet off the ground on no Siamese shops: the chief wooden legs. My staff oonsisted of four persons : my of the day was my own, to read priceless bearer, Mohamed Said, or sleep or explore. Bathing, from Sialkot; Josef, a blaok of course, was impossible, as I youth from near the Jaganath was soon informed by a young temple at Pari, who hewed shark who came nosing along wood and drew water; Sadhu, the rook on which I was sitting. a melanoholy pallid sweeper A mile away was the jungle, boy from the Panjab, who wherein was an extensive assort“gwept” the whole station, ment of both small and great inoluding the little hospital; beasts: orooodiles and black and

Sāmmi, the Madrasi panthers by the coast; and in “000k.” Bat Sāmmi “could the high ridges north of the only bake bride-oake," boil station, bear, elephant, and eggs, that is, and stew things tiger, besides snakes and into a slush: the first fish he monkeys innumerable. An eletried to cook was, as was truly phant had recently eaten a said by my bearer, who in- native's banana-trees; and just stantly took over his daties, before I arrived, a tiger, driven “unripe." However, Sāmmi down by the drought, had killed was revenged later when a & cow on the road half a mile reoaloitrant cock, during his away, and snuffed (80 the exeoution, dug his spur into Eurasian operator asserted) Mohamed's wrist; the bird, he round the door of the Wireless told me with ill-concealed glee, Station. But shooting meant “hit him."

Sapplies were a longer expedition than I had mainly non-existent, but what time for, and killing things has there were never cost me a never amused me. At first I rupee a day; and with fish and tried to walk in the jungle; but eggs and bread and an ocoa- a jungle looks best from the sional hen and an insufficient- outside. Onoe you are in, you ly occasional goat (misoalled oan see nothing whatever; and "muting”), and plantains at the noise you make on the the war rate of twelve a penny, parohed leaves frightens every I did well enough. A more bird for a mile. The uncanny serious problem was that of silenoe produces a sinister feel. oooupation; after a spell of ing of being watched by unseen service on two fronts, and a eyes: you find that, compleyear of duty in India, I was mentary to your dislike of killvery happy to sit down for a ing animals, is an even stronger change, but my month passed dislike of animals killing you; none too quiokly.

and after I had been warned Twioe å day I had to go that my perambulations were to my daties at the Wireless rather foolishly risky, and an. Station half a mile off; but one likely to show me any of the soon tires of the rending orack wild things I had come out for of its discharge, and the high to see, I desisted. thin note in the receiver, like So my walks were limited to a telephone trying to talk to a square mile or so; but in itself without words. The rest that space were inexhaustible

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