a pirate, or was known to commit a single act of violence. Their chief characteristic is the simple retirement of their lives, without ostentation,

living up to the faith they profess in word and deed, and bringing up their children to better things than the knowledge of the nineteenth century— as the apostle directs, in the fear and admonition of the Lord."

This grotto, where tradition reports that the Revelation was vouchsafed to St. John in his exile, is carefully preserved by the inhabitants of the isle; and the school of the Apostle, which adjoins it, has been well known in modern Greece as educating more useful clergymen and good scholars than almost any other place of education in that kingdom.

In the next chapter we find our traveller, how or why he is not pleased to tell us, making for the mouth of the Nile in a rather perilous open boat. He entered by the Damietta branch, and proceeded, with his companions, to engage a country boat to take the whole party to Cairo. The scenery on the banks of the Nile is far from interesting, and, to use Mr. Formby's words, often subjects the visiter to ocular impalement, from the tall, meagre forms of the bordering palms. The captain of their boat was a surly fellow, evidently in his own mind disgraced by the society of Giaours, and only quieted by the prospect of his two hundred piastres. After various preparatory grumblings, he broke out into open rebellion, and actually cut off their morning's supply of fresh milk. To what extent the captain might have pushed his obstinacy, our travellers were not forced to experience, after a chance reception of them by the Bey of Messourah Abdul Hamet, who was too glad to show his respect for Europeans to care for either the dirt or the holes and tatters of their travelling costume. The protection of the second in rank to the pasha himself worked wonders in their favour. How this was obtained is worth reading

"At last we came into a large ante-room, where was assembled a large miscellaneous crowd of dependents and different persons, waiting for audience, or possibly for justice. After remaining here for a short time, that the announcement of our being come might take effect, we were ushered into the hall of audience, and found the bey in full divan. We were

made to sit down by the side of his excellency, close to him, and he commenced a discourse concerning the latest news from the head-quarters of Ibrahim's army, the countries we had passed through, and many other such matters; and, amongst others, the project of navigating the Nile by steam, and the success of the pasha's attempt. Pipes were now served round with most splendid amber mouth-pieces, set with diamonds, together with coffee; and B, observing the bey's eye to be inflamed, asked him about it. I ventured to recommend a lotion, with a little warm milk and water—a simple remedy which they seemed to despise from its very simplicity. B——, however, going much more nobly to work, rose from his seat, and, to my great astonishment, took hold of the bey's hand, felt his pulse, looked grave, asked his patient several questions, with the most perfect medical propriety, and concluded by saying how much he regretted not having more medicines with him than he had brought on this journey; but that if the bey would trust to him, he would send him some pills that he had no doubt would do him a great deal of service. The bey gratefully and with perfect submission accepted the offer, and, accordingly, the dragoman was directed to accompany us to the boat, in order to bring away the medicinal treasure. As we pursued our way to the boat, we took occasion to inform the dragoman quietly respecting the conduct of the captain, and requested him to give him a few intimations from head-quarters, as to the ultimate issue of such incivility towards the intimate friends of his highness the bey, if they should have any further reason to complain; and forthwith I was commissioned to pack up a dozen common pills in a packet of writing paper, tied up with a little brownish thread, and labelled in English, for the sake of a more mysterious appearance, and when this was done, we parted with our friend the dragoman with mutual obeisances, but from that time we had not one word of complaint against the captain.”—Pp. 92, 93.

We heard once of an English traveller in Egypt who had to complain of a native for the dilatoriness with which he performed his stated carrying of the party across the desert. The village sheikh said he could not interfere, but that the Frank might thrash the fellow if he offended again. Next day the offence was repeated, and, finding remonstrance useless, the traveller leaped from his horse, horsewhip in hand, and pursued the fellow through the sand, gave him a sound thrashing, according to the sheikh's advice, and never had occasion afterwards to do more than hold up his weapon to enforce obedience.

As far as we have been permitted to judge, partly from the specimens preserved in the museums of this country, and partly from the elaborate drawings with which so many of the English and French travels in Egypt have been illustrated, we cannot feel that contempt for the massive architecture and colossal sculpture of that country, which is too evident in the disparaging remarks of Mr. Formby. We cannot realize the author's mixed feelings of respect and levity when regarding the two wondrous statues of Memnon, the only remains of the great city, on whose site they look down in solemn majesty. The ruined halls of Karnac and Philoe, seem to us,-the latter we may judge from Mr. Roberts's picture in this year's exhibition,-to impress too powerful respect to render the "harlequin adjustment" of the hieroglyphics, or "the queer attributes and dresses of the

figures," a source of unseemly mirth. The Temple of Denderah,

the work of the later Ptolemys, before the images of which the Hindoo troops of our Indian army bowed down, as recognising the pictures of gods similar to those of their own mythology, surely deserves some little more praise than as giving "the best impression of the capabilities of the Egyptian style."

The pasha is too well known to us, from late events, not to make any remarks on the success or failure of his schemes other than interesting to the general reader. He, too, would be the regenerator of his country, by engrafting European innovations upon a stock where they will never grow, save at the expense of

old habits and it may be better feelings: he regards the arts and sciences as the end, not as the means-as civilization itself, not as mere indexes of it; and it is under this idea that he is surrounding himself with symptoms of the art and science of the Frank, to the daily oppression of his people, and the exaltation of his and his satellites' dominion. The hollowness of this state will be shown on the death of its originator. "But see what he has done!" is the universal cry. "Has he not put down all robbers?" Certainly, except himself. "Has he not a camelpost from one end of his kingdom to the other? has he not imported workmen, physicians, philosophers, and mechanics, raised a great fleet, and a greater army, built palaces and mosques, made a board of agriculture, put down all civil commotions, and made his name a passport over what was once a lawless country?" Doubtless; and for whose glory and benefit? That of the pasha, and the pasha alone: he has raised Mehemet Ali, not Egypt, in the eyes of the world. His manufactures entail a loss; his schools educate hundreds, to send out a dozen fit for the pasha's service, and to return the rest as useless to their friends; his hospitals are for his soldiers, so are his physicians and surgeons. The poor Arab fellah may still seek the Arab doctor, though in the next village lives a refined garrison surgeon. Agriculture is improved at the expense of the peasant and the farmer; his imported artizans come, do the work, go away, and the people learn not. The revenue is raised by violence; the revenues of the mosques, the sources of constant charity, absorbed into the state, and the oolemas made state pensioners.

"Not a peasant in the land can call his rough wool-shirt his own for two days. As an instance of what daily happens, a boatman, in the crew of a friend's boat, had earned 70 piastres, 14s. while in service at Cairo. He asked leave, on passing the village where his parents lived, to land and see them, as they had not seen each other for years, and the son wished to give his earnings to his parents. The captain warned him of his danger, but he was determined to go; he knew his parents were poor, and they had not met for some time. He was accordingly allowed to go, under a promise to rejoin his boat, higher up, at a certain village fixed on; but, when the boat came to the village, the man was missing; nor was he there on the return of the boat, some weeks afterwards. At last, at a village lower down, they found him, and took him on board. He had hardly gone to sleep at all, from keeping watch, lest the boat should pass him in the night; and the story he told was, that, on entering the village, he was seized by the sheikh, put in prison, bastinadoed, his money taken from him, and compelled to leave the village, without seeing either his father or mother. There was no redress: the money was wanted for the Pasha's service."-P. 119.

So much is levied on the district, for which the sheikh is answerable, ergo he must bastinadoe, to save his own heels and his own coffers. Again, the pasha is lord of the soil, and his Committee of Agriculture are his farming stewards. They put their heads together, and order how much cotton, sugar, and

corn each district shall raise in the year. Perhaps the fellah has sown corn, the Board orders cotton; consequently, the farmer's corn crop is rooted up, and the cotton sown. Again, the farmer wants some of his crop for himself. To obtain this, he must take his entire crop to the pasha's warehouse, sell it all at the pasha's buying price, and redeem what he wants for his own use, at his highness's selling price. With such a system can we wonder at the poverty of the land ?-and when we read of the expeditions of the pasha's captains to sack villages, in order to gather recruits for the army, can we wonder that the children are made cyclopes from their youth, in order to escape from the pasha's military service? The pasha prides himself on his Europeanized young men ;-let us see what they are like:

"Again, the pasha is very much commended for sending youths to Europe to learn European sciences. But what kind of characters do they come back? They have a smattering of French, of sciences, and other matters, of all which they have a magpie knowledge. They return, not Christians, but despisers of the Prophet, with their faculties only the more sharpened to avail themselves of every iniquitous mode of rising in the world. They learn a curious sort of apish politeness, very different from either European gentility, or Turkish reserve. In a word, whatever they may be besides, they are generally finished scoundrels, with scarce one single principle of right. I consider a strict Mahometan, setting aside his contempt for others, to be a moral, estimable character; but the new race of Arab-Europeans are real infidels, not even understanding the sciences and arts, by means of which the ancient glory of Egypt is expected to revive. I have seen the style of these semi-Frenchmen in our visit to the different schools; and I confess I think the few that have come back from England, though destitute of the mannerism of the others, are both all the better for it, and have acquired some tolerably solid and useful accomplishments."-Pp. 120-122.

And yet, with all his defects, he is a master-mind, affable, yet keen; resolute, but mild; dignified, yet bold and fearless in his cunning, especially in the opening years of his eventful career. Doubtless he is a great man, but not because he has taught his ministers to sit on chairs, drink wine, speak French, and despise the mosques.

One of the most curious chapters in the "Visit to the East," is that entitled "Buonaparte in Egypt;" in which the author gives some extracts from a French translation of the private journals of two natives, during the invasion of Napoleon. Abdarshahman Gabarti, the chief of these journalists, was a man of some weight and reputation among his people, and a member of Napoleon's divan, before the revolt of Cairo; the other writer, Mou Allem Nicholas el Turki, was a Maronite Christian, and a poet of some fame, at the court of the Emir Beschir. The extracts show how consistent Napoleon was, in "doing at Rome as they do at Rome," and in building up his own power on the ruins of true religion. The birth-day of the prophet gave Napoleon an opportunity of showing his