CHAP. XVII.]

PRECOCIOUS YOUTH.

191

which the wearer can see with sufficient distinctness. We wore coloured glasses for the same purpose.

For the amusement of children, the women manufacture dolls, often very fair copies of themselves or the men, in dress and general appearance. But the children soon develop into men and women; and, at ten years old, a boy may possess and know how to make good use of a gun, while a girl, at fifteen, may have a husband, or, at all events, be setting snares for one!

Co-Yukon Goggles.

CHAPTER XVIII.

CANOE JOURNEY.-ASCENT OF THE YUKON.

Spring-Thaw

Break-up of the Yukon

Preparations for journey Our canoes - Start - Dangerous condition of river Its size - Current - Perilous navigation - Submerged islands Co-Yukuk Birch-bark fleet-Sachertelontin - Lagoon - Newicargut -- Purchase of supplies Tooth-brush experiences — Medicine-making — Indian dissipation — Child's birch-bark chair.

ALTHOUGH snow covers the ground, and the rivers are frozen, for nearly eight months of the year in Northern Russian America, winter can hardly be said to exist for that time. As early as April 5th, a thaw occurred, and, though it again got cooler, it proved to us that spring was fast approaching. On the 9th, flies made their appearance, the court-yard of the post became a swamp, and, on the 10th, I found the willows and smaller trees budding. The Russians at last became convinced that winter was over, and commenced clearing the fast-melting snow from the roofs and yard. The houses leaked much, and trenches had to be dug in the enclosure, and round the fort. It was amusing to watch the lazy employés of the Fur Company: their mode of proceeding was somewhat as follows. One Russian shoveled a few pounds of snow on to a hide. Two others then-with great appearance of fatigue-dragged it slowly to the edge of the bank and dropped it over. This unparalleled exertion rendered it necessary for the trio to sit down and smoke. After an interval of repose-and the "bidarshik" making his appearance

CHAP. XVIII.]

BREAK-UP OF THE YUKON.

193

-with great zeal and alacrity they started to work again. The "bidarshik," satisfied that they were indefatigable servants of the Company, went in himself to take a nap, or to play a game of cards with his clerk. They repeated the process, and cleared up a few inches more; it was then time to "chi peat" (drink tea), and they adjourned for the purpose. Their mode of working was on economical principles, each doing as little as he could; the Company paid them in exact proportion.

From the 11th to the 25th of April, the weather got cooler, with slight falls of snow. After the latter date, however, the thermometer rarely fell below freezing point, and, by comparison with our winter experiences, it seemed quite warm. On the 28th of the same month, the first goose from the south arrived, and "Kuriler" was in his element. He frequently scrambled across the opening and fastthawing ice of the river, to the island opposite our station, remaining there all night, and never returning emptyhanded.

On the 5th May, the Nulato River made a decided breakup; it had shown many signs of it before, but its ardour had been nipped in the bud. This time it burst in good earnest, and on the 12th it opened still more, and ran out on the top of the Yukon ice, for more than a mile up the great river. In many places the rain had bared the ice from its usual covering of snow; it is, without doubt, a powerful agent in breaking up these great rivers. The general

effect was mess and confusion; the ice dirty, and mixed with logs and débris, and the water, in tortuous streams, running all over its surface. Several persons belonging to the fort, who had been shooting on the island opposite, had much

difficulty in getting back; and Ivan, the "bidarshik," almost came to grief, getting wedged in between loose ice, and up to his neck in water. He was rescued by canoes from the fort. Indians have been carried away, and drowned by an unexpected break-up of the river, and the fish-traps are invariably swept away.

On the 12th, musquitoes made their first appearance, and on the 13th the swallows arrived, and were flitting round the fort, or building under the eaves of the roof. The indefatigable Kuriler bagged six geese, and, the following day, ten more. The weather was now so warm and sunny, that we felt enervated and oppressed by it.

19th. First real break-up of the Yukon, the ice coming down in a steady flow at the rate of five or six knots an hour. For several days afterwards this continued, and was an exciting scene after the monotony of the winter. A constant stream of broken ice passed the station, now surging into mountains as it met with some obstacle, now grinding and crashing on its way, and carrying all before it. Whole trees and banks were swept away before its victorious march, and the river rose some fourteen feet above its winter level. On the 22nd, a quantity of " black ice," i. e. ice discoloured by some very dark-looking earth, went by. By the 24th, the river was beginning to clear.

The varied conditions in which we found the ice would make a very interesting study. Some of it was beautifully clear, representing perfect ice, whilst a larger proportion seemed to be in a sodden, half water-logged state. One variety appeared to be riddled or honeycombed, whilst a very common kind appeared to be in a rotten, yet crystalline condition. When this struck against a second floating lump,

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PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY.

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it cracked into a thousand fragments, and there was a constant sound as of the smashing of glass. As before stated, much dirt, and that of many shades, was mingled with the ice, and the water was as discoloured as that of the Thames at London. Much well-packed snow still remained on the miniature floating bergs; and trees, whole or in fragments, came down imbedded in them. The Russians often dragged quantities of this drift-wood ashore, and kept it for fuel and building purposes. Our man Pickett was set to work in the same way, and succeeded in collecting a good quantity.

All was now activity: the Russians preparing for their spring trading excursion, Dall and myself for our projected trip, and Mr. Dyer for his journey down the river to its mouths, where he expected to meet Mr. Everett Smith-a gentleman of our service, employed in taking soundings there. Provisions and goods had to be selected, weighed out, and packed: guns and pistols cleaned: and oars and paddles manufactured by the dozen.

The skins from our "baidarre" and Mr. Dyer's three-holed "baidarke" were taken off their frames, re-patched in rotten places, soaked in water, &c., and then again put on,. well oiled, and fat rubbed into the seams. By the 25th we were all ready and anxious to get away. Although it was raining hard on the morning of the 26th, at 7 A.M.. Mr. Dyer, with two Indians, left us to descend the river, and by eight o'clock the Russians and ourselves made our start up. The Russians, with Indian workmen, numbered eight persons, under the direction of our friend "Ivan," the head man and trader of the Nulato Fort. Their skin boat was of large size, had a rudder, mast, and large square-sail: it carried over two tons of goods and provisions. Our craft was a much