except by the traders of the Russian American Fur Company; and much valuable information has been hitherto locked up in their archives. By the recent treaty all the documents relating to the territory were to be handed over to the United States Government. Let us hope that they may, in the interests of geography, receive a thorough investigation.

The treaty between Russia and the United States establishes the eastern and southern boundary lines as arranged by Russia and Great Britain in 1825. The western line includes the whole of the Aleutian Islands; Attou is distinctly named as the most westerly island ceded. The northern boundary is only limited by the ice and snow of the Arctic.

In 1865, the Western Union Telegraph Company of America, the largest corporation of its kind in existence, commenced the explorations for a proposed overland telegraph, which, by means of a cable, viâ Bering Straits, was to unite the old and new world. The project-of itself not entirely new-was virtually started by Mr. P. D. Collins, an enterprising American, who had, after several years' perseverance, obtained the necessary charters and right of way from the British and Russian Governments. The scheme, after an expenditure of three million dollars, was abandoned in 1867, owing to the success of the Atlantic cable, and not from any overwhelming difficulties in the way of the undertaking itself. There was, at the date at which our explorations commenced, no faith in the great submarine cable, at least among telegraphic engineers.*

It is by no means improbable that this enterprise may be again

CHAP. VI.] W. U. TELEGRAPH EXPEDITION.

69

It is needless to state that an expedition employing several hundred explorers, who examined six thousand miles of country on both sides of the Pacific-from Fraser River to Bering Straits, and thence southward to the Amoor-has added something to our knowledge of those countries. In point of fact, five volumes like the present would hardly give a fair idea of the amount of travel undertaken. Much of the information acquired is in the hands of the Telegraph Company, and much more in the possession of individuals, and is virtually lost to the world. I have confined myself almost exclusively to the narration of my own experiences, ranging over nearly two and a half years.

Colonel Bulkley, engineer-in-chief of the projected line, in the spring of the above-mentioned year, left San Francisco (where the head-quarters of the expedition were established), and paid a preliminary visit to Sitka. He there left Dr. Fisher, the surgeon-in-chief, to collect information while he himself returned to California to organise the expedition. I first had the pleasure of meeting Colonel Bulkley in Victoria, V. I., and immediately volunteered to serve on the expedition. He expressed himself gratified at the idea of an artist accompanying him, and we commenced a friendship that has but increased with better acquaintance. Colonel Bulkley inspired affection and esteem in all who knew him.

revived, if the Atlantic cable or cables should "give out" or work with uncertainty, although it would be an expensive line to construct and to keep in good order. That the scheme is practicable there can be no doubt. Portions of the line which were completed between New Westminster and the Mouth of Quesnelle-both on Fraser River-are now used for the transmission of messages. See Appendix (II.).

Our expedition had a military organization, and to each man was assigned a special duty. The principal officers for the first season (1865) were as follow:

Col. Bulkley, Engineer-in-Chief (on leave of absence U.S. regular army.) Capt. Scammon, Chief of Marine (U.S. Revenue Service).

Major Wright, Adjutant.

Major Chappel, Chief Quartermaster.

Mr. Lewis, Assistant Engineer.

Dr. Fisher, Surgeon-in-Chief.

Major Kennicott (in charge of Yukon party).

Lieut. MacCrea (in charge of Anadyr party).

Major Abasa (in charge of Siberian party).

Major Pope (in charge of British Columbian party).
Capt. Conway (in charge of building party).

E. K. Laborne, Interpreter.

Fredk. Whymper, Artist.

It would occupy an unnecessary amount of space to give the details and numbers of each party, more especially as reference will be made to them subsequently; but I may add that several collectors for the Smithsonian Institution at Washington accompanied us, among the principal of whom were Messrs. Dall, Rothrock, Bannister, and Elliot. Major Kennicott, besides being selected on account of his previously acquired knowledge of the country, was the appointed director of the scientific corps.

The men selected by Colonel Bulkley were nearly all young, and hardly one beyond the prime of life. He more than once said that no old man (or old woman either) should serve on his expedition, and he could have hardly found a better place than San Francisco for the selection of active and "live" men. There, nearly every one has been more or less a traveller, and knows something of the many acquirements valuable in a new country.

CHAP. VI.]

PREFERENCE FOR YOUTH.

71

Doubtless Colonel Bulkley's preference for youth, activity, and "go" is that of Americans generally. Here, in England, I have sometimes thought that youth was considered more of a crime than a recommendation, and that you were nowhere until you had-like old port-acquired "body" and "age"!

CHAPTER VII.

A VISIT TO THE CAPITAL OF ALASKA.

The voyage-Sitka Sound and Harbour - Baranoff- Early history — The town-Water supply-Agriculture - Former Russian settlements in California - Russian American Company-The fisheries - Kalosh Indians - Our experiences of Russian hospitality — Sitka in new hands - Two Sundays in a week - Kodiak ice- Formal transfer of Alaska.

ON the 30th July, 1865, I bade a final adieu to Victoria, joined the W. U. Telegraph Company's steamer 'Wright,' and the following day we were en route for Sitka, the then capital of Russian America.

Our voyage, made in calm summer weather, was not specially eventful. Early in our trip we were unfortunate enough to lose one of the fans of our screw, which of course somewhat diminished the speed of our vessel. At Port McNeil, near Fort Rupert, V. I., we stopped to take on board a small quantity of native coal to test its value for steaming purposes.

After threading Johnstone Straits we passed to the north of Vancouver Island, and outside Queen Charlotte's Island. I mention this fact because there is well known to be an "inside passage" threading the archipelago of islands north of Vancouver Island. In winter it may possibly be the better route, but it is of a difficult and tortuous nature.

On the 8th August we reached the intricate and rock-girt shores of Sitka Sound, and soon came to an anchor imme