CHAP. IX.] VOLCANOES. 97 Koseldskai; the first of these is between eleven and twelve thousand feet in height, and is an unfailing land-mark for the port. From the summit of the steep hills which so nearly enclose Petropaulovski, a grand view of these mountains is obtained; a comparatively level country stretches to their base. It is, however, covered with rank grass and underbrush, and intersected by numerous streams: a journey to them would be more easily made in winter time than in summer. To the S.S.W. of the town a fourth peak-that of Vilutchinski-towers above the coast-line, and is a very beautiful feature in the landscape. Petropaulovski has been frequently visited by earthquake, accompanied sometimes by showers of ashes from these volcanoes. The smoke from Koriatski was several times observed by us; its pure snows only hid the boiling, bubbling lava beneath. * The object of our visit was to communicate, by special courier, with Major Abasa, a Russian gentleman in our Telegraph service who had formed a station at Ghijega at the head of the Ochotsk Sea. The facilities of travel on the peninsula are superior to those on the coast of the above-mentioned sea. In winter small Siberian horses, reindeer, and dogs are all employed for sledging purposes. The feeding of the dogs of Petropaulovski took place every evening, and their yelps and howlings made night hideous. One dried salmon per diem was each dog's allowance, and they were much better off than their Russian-American cousins, who in summer have to forage for themselves. See the 'Proceedings' of the Royal Geographical Society for Feb. 11th, 1867. The hospitality extended to us was almost unlimited. Dinners, balls, suppers followed each other in rapid succession; we had a steam-boat excursion in Avatcha Bay. One of the dishes common in Petropaulovski was salmon pie, constructed apparently of eggs and salmon, covered with a crust. Salmon is very abundant in the harbour and neighbouring streams, and some has been put up in salt for export. We also got a little sledging, when the snow fell just before our departure. The ice was fast forming in the harbour, and it was often a serious undertaking to row ashore. It is well known that in 1855-during the Crimean warPetropaulovski was visited by the Allied fleet. The record of that visit has been duly laid before the public, commented on, and forgotten; but it is not so generally known that our first attack, the previous year, was by no means a subject of congratulation for us, and (although well understood by naval officers, and especially by those who have served on the Pacific station) it has been kept uncommonly quiet. The fact is, that at the first visit, the wretched little town made -greatly to its own surprise-a successful resistance, and is very proud of the fact. The inhabitants look upon the combat at Petropaulovski as one of the decisive battles of the world! The narrative I am about to lay before the reader was obtained on the spot, but not merely from the Russians. An Englishman-Mr. Fletcher-who had resided there for thirty years, and several of the foreign merchants who were in the town at the date of the attack, confirmed the Muscovite versions of the story. In the autumn of 1854 (28th August) six vessels of war CHAP. IX.] ON PETROPAULOVSKI IN 1854. 99 French and English-comprising the President,' 'Virago,' 'Pique' 'La Fort,' 'L'Eurydice,' and 'Obligado'—arrived off Avatcha Bay; a gun, placed near the lighthouse at the entrance, was fired by the Russians, and gave the inhabitants of Petropaulovski notice to be on the alert. Admiral Price immediately reconnoitred the harbour and town, and placed the Virago' in position at a range of 2000 yards. The Russians were by no means unprepared. Two of their vessels, the 'Aurora' and 'Dwina,' defended the harbour, and a chain crossing the narrow entrance shut it in. There were seven batteries and earthworks, mounting about fifty guns of fair calibre. The 'Virago' commenced the action with a well-directed fire, and several of the batteries were either temporarily or entirely disabled. The one furthest from the town, on the western side, was taken by a body of marines landed for the purpose. The guns were spiked. Four of the Allied fleet were specially engaged, and the Russians returned their fire with spirit. There were three batteries outside and on the spit, two at the termination of the promontory on the western side of the harbour, and one in a gorge of the same, which opens on Avatcha Bay. It is in this little valley that the monument to La Perouse stands. The town was well defended both by nature and by art. The hills shut it in so completely, that it was apparently only vulnerable at the rear. There, a small valley opened out into a flat strip of land immediately bordering the bay, and, although there was a battery on it, it seemed an excellent spot to land troops. Our vessels having taken up a new position, and silenced the batteries commanding it, 700 marines and sailors were |