mother was young and of a peculiar beauty; with much elegance and softness, yet with the dignity of a Meg Merrilies; she had somewhat of the Græco-Egyptian style of face, the features being rather long. Her hair, which was formed into a band round her head and partly plaited, flowed with a long handkerchief down her back. Her clothes were loose and few; the breast was open, and the legs bare from the knee; the arms also were exposed. With this appearance even of poverty in the dress, there was at the same time a considerable display of wealth; on one of her wrists I saw three broad gold bracelets, or bands of plain gold, about three-quarters of an inch wide, and on her neck other gold ornaments. A bunch of fresh flowers was stuck into the hair, a very common ornament among the people throughout Turkey; it is placed so carelessly, and still with so much taste both as to position and selection of colours, that a stranger cannot but be struck with it; and this is done without the aid of a glass, for there can scarcely be one in the whole country: I have seen none in the houses of either rich or poor, both Greeks and Turks having religious scruples against their use. I observe my guides frequently picking up flowers, and sticking them carelessly into the folds of the turban, generally with the blossom hanging downwards.

From some goatherds in the neighbourhood I obtained two musical instruments, a long flute and a kind of guitar,

used by the inhabitants. They had themselves made them, and played several airs upon them, one of which I recognised

as the same I had heard played on a flute of a similar kind during the dancing of the Dervises at Constantinople*.

The country is still most richly wooded: another species of the plane is common here, far inferior to the one of which I have before spoken; it grows upright and very high, and does not throw off the bark, which is rough; it has a leaf with five points like a star, which when touched emits a strong smellt. The trees here form a complete wilderness of rich thicket, a happy land for the birds, which have miles of impervious woods, where they dwell in multitudes: the vines are matted over the tops of the highest trees, and covered with fruit, not a bunch of which will be gathered except by the birds. I passed along a thicket of this kind for nearly twenty miles yesterday, in which nightingales and thrushes were singing most delightfully; and in the evening the nightingales hymn my vespers, regardless of the light in my tent, until the fatigue of travelling bids me sleep.

Hoóla lies in the mountains, and is the first place that I have passed, since leaving Adalia, deserving the name of a

* The same instruments, the present mode of playing upon them, and even the usual attitude whilst playing, are exactly represented in the following figures, copied from an Egyptian papyrus at the British Museum.

village. Its elevation has carried me back a month in vegetation; here however the trees are in bloom, and generally green. For the first time I see rye cultivated; oats are unknown in the country. The distance from Koógez to Hoóla is about forty miles, and twelve miles further is Moóla, which lies still higher in the mountains. These are again becoming bare, and of marble, and the twelve miles have carried the season back almost to winter, the walnuts, figs, and fruittrees scarcely showing a leaf. The map distance is perhaps not more than four miles, yet the climate is that of another country.

April 27th.-Moóla is a town of considerable size, and stands at the south-eastern end of its valley. Thence I travelled north-west for twenty-four miles to the post-village called Acrui-cooe (or Stable-village), and the next morning continued the same line for eight miles to Esky Hissá, the ancient Stratoniceia. This valley is varied by hill and dale, and has its mountain, river, and meadows; indeed it contains within its range so extensive and varied a country, that it would be easy to imagine oneself in a far distant region; I have fancied myself at home, for at this elevation (about four thousand feet) the season and the products of the soil are precisely those of England, the trees just in leaf, the flowers coming out, and no plant to be seen that is not known in our country.

The ancient town of Stratoniceia has extended over a considerable space, and, judging from the remains, must have been formed of magnificent buildings. Five or six temples may still be traced, and it has its theatre in the hill on the west of the town. Many of its walls are built of the ruins of former structures, which appear to have been all of white marble. One immense cella of a temple still stands in the centre of the town; its walls are of the large stones used by the early Greeks; and at each corner is a sculptured shield, with a sword or spear across the back of it, as seen so fre

quently in Pamphylia. A handsome cornice still runs round a part of the walls. The stones within the portico are covered with inscriptions; I copied one, which, from its posi tion, and the form of the beautifully cut letters, must have been among the earliest.

The walls of the cella on the outside were literally covered with inscriptions, which might all be deciphered by devoting time to them. Many parts of columns still stand in their original positions, and also two or three fine arches and doorways, indicating the magnificence of the former buildings. The present village is scattered over a wide space, and is formed of, and within, the ancient ruins.

The road hence to Mellássa, the ancient Mylasa, is varied by many small hills, from which it descends steeply to a plain, with the town standing at the end of it. Along the whole line of road I observed much ironstone, and some almost pure iron-ore: the small hills were all of the micaceous schist which I have before endeavoured to describe; it varied much in colour, being sometimes as white and shining as silver, and forming a sand like Calais sand, but glittering with mica; at other times being almost jet black, then red, blue, green, or yellow. The broad veins of marble were highly crystallized in many places, and almost transparent, resembling the agate rocks of the central country; the slaty schist was shivered into splinters a foot long, and in some places into flakes as thin as paper, the whole indicating the effects of great heat. The country was entirely covered with a forest of fir-trees, the mode of felling which is so singularly primitive, that the American Indian alone could do it in a more simple manner. The bark is cut for two or three feet, and the trunk wounded with the long knife of the people; afterwards for a season the turpentine bleeds from these cuttings, and they then set fire to it, thus consuming the trunk to the depth of about an inch: the tree is then again chipped, and the fire applied to the renewed

discharge of inflammable sap. Some years are thus employed in felling a large tree, which at last falls, borne down by a heavy gust of wind. After the tree is down, the slow habits of the people are still shown in their further operations. The small branches alone are cut off for firewood; the trunk is then chipped or grooved on the upper side, so as to catch the rain-water, to promote the decay of the wood; and in this state the tree lies, sometimes across a path, which is turned in consequence for several years,— until, falling to pieces, the parts are carried away on the camels and asses employed in the trade of furnishing firewood to the villages and sea-ports. The timber, although extremely straight and good of the kind, is used for no other purpose than fuel, and in every neighbourhood many hundred trees are undergoing the process above described. The smaller trees, laid in lines around the cultivated grounds, are used as fences, the branches soon harbouring luxuriant vegetation, forming a thicket, through which the cattle seldom break.

The water-jars of this western part of Asia Minor are made of red clay, and are in form precisely like the terracotta vases of the ancient Greeks. These jars, which stand but insecurely, are seen tied to the trunks of trees by the wayside, and kept constantly filled for the use of the traveller. This extremely grateful supply of water, in parts of the country remote from natural springs or aqueducts, is a religious care for the ablutions before prayer. There are very frequently endowments for the maintenance of this devotional observance. Upon fountains supplied by small aqueducts are frequently Turkish inscriptions relating the

* Mr. Yates observes, that to the same primitive and tedious method of felling trees intended for burning, Theophrastus, speaking of the natives of Ida, appears to allude when he says, "that after these things, the tree, being decayed, falls in consequence of the under-cutting, by the force of the winds."