of their doorways cannot have suited any other edifice: I sought in vain for inscriptions near them.

We here saw a building rather apart from the town, similar to others which I have noticed elsewhere, having a square room, with a circular end, and side buildings forming little covered saloons with many doors: these ruins retain much of their stucco, which has been painted with borders and wreaths of flowers, and part of a female figure, in red, blue, green, yellow, and white colours.

The present state of this district is extremely wild; only three or four huts are amidst these ruins on the mountain, and their occupants have always their gun slung over their shoulder, even within the limits of their own cultivated fields. On inquiry as to why this custom prevailed, we were told that the country was full of wild animals, and of the fiercest kind. I was extremely cautious and particular in my inquiries as to their nature, and have no doubt of the truth of the account which I heard from many of the people of the surrounding district, and each unknown to the other. In this village alone, four or five lions, called Aslan by the Turks, and other animals called Caplan (the leopard), are killed every year. The man who first told me had himself taken the skins to the Aga, to present to the different Pashas, and these presentations had been rewarded by sums of one to two hundred piastres, which he had himself received. The lions, he said, are timid unless surprised or attacked, and I could not hear that they did much injury to the flocks. Wolves-and, if I understand rightly, the hyæna also—are found here; and the latter are described as gnashing their teeth together; my Greek servant adds, that such animals strike fire from their mouths, but this occurs in his travels in Persia. I have heard the same from showmen at our country fairs, among other exaggerated wonders. Bears are certainly found here in great numbers. I observe the most costly buildings in this district

are the apiaries, which are formed of a square of high walls, open at the top only; within this the hives are placed, and a ladder is used if entry is required-a precaution which is essential to keep away the bears from the honey. This, which reminded me of the illustrations of Æsop's fables, was the more interesting from its being his native country. The moral of the fable is preserved; but the hives that I have seen pictured would not be known by the bees of this country, as their house is here more simple, being universally the hollowed section of a fir-tree. Snakes are also abundant in this district, but they are most numerous in the lower valleys. An island opposite to Macry, at the foot of the Cragus range, is wholly given up to them; and the ruins of an earlier village, called Macry-vecchia, probably of a late Roman age, are shown as the remains of a town deserted on account of the number of snakes. The people object even to approach the island, and I doubt not that their fears greatly exaggerate the number and size of these animals. My servant saw one, which he considered small, among the ruins of Cadyanda; it measured six feet, and was as thick as his arm.

Uslann, April 16th.—I have seldom passed a more rugged, and never a worse road with baggage-horses, than today; the distance on the map is not great, but we have been five hours on the way. For the first hour, after leaving Tortoorcar Hissá, we ascended a craggy mountain covered with fir-trees, and then arrived at a little cultivated plain. Around this were barren crags, scarcely affording pasture to the flocks of large black goats on their rocky sides: the height to which they had climbed made me giddy as I looked up to seek whence came their bleating.

From this elevated mountain pass we obtained occasionally splendid views of the sea, whose immense expanse was unbroken by a vessel of any kind. Turning down a steep ravine towards the south-east we came to a few huts, and

continuing our course at last saw before us the Delta of the Xanthus; Patara being at one angle, and this place occupying the other toward the sea. Uslann has but three sheds,

and serves as the port, or scala, for shipping fire-wood and salt-fish to Rhodes. Two Greeks carry on this trade, and are the whole population. A village, consisting of a few huts, lies about a mile inland from this place, which is probably another mile from the sea-coast. We were supplied here with eight fowls for fifteen piastres, scarcely five-pence each: but this is not so cheap in proportion as the produce of the interior towards the south. The prices of our provisions I find are higher than they were two years ago.

We were attracted hither by the report of the existence of ruins in this quarter, and also by the admirable chart of Captain Beaufort, who lays them down as ruins not yet. visited. Colonel Leake had also directed me hither as the probable site of the ancient Cydna, or Pydna, but of this discovery I am not satisfied.

About a mile distant, near to the sea, we found a rocky hill, fortified with a beautifully built Cyclopean wall, with towers and loop-holes, and showing a fine specimen of an ancient

doors through the towers; and as the wall rose up the steep side of the hill, the terrace was formed of a flight of steps; several of the towers had only been breastwork, having but three walls, the inner side being left open.

This place does not appear to me ever to have been a city, for the walls contain but one building, and this at the lower corner. No loose stones, or cuttings of the bare rocky ground for foundations, show that any other buildings ever existed. What this one structure has been, must remain a mystery; its form, painted walls, and arched domes, are precisely the same as those of the ruin I have described at Sidyma. Within this building lay a broken pedestal, with an inscription. In turning over the stone we killed a scorpion, which lay concealed beneath it. On the outside of the wall were the remains of a small ruined building, again of the same construction, but still less perfect; it had its three chambers, with dome tops and painted walls. Only two tombs were to be found in the neighbourhood, and they were near the outside of the south gate. An inscription upon a stone which had been over the doorway of one of them, I think may assist to strengthen my opinion that this place. was a stronghold or fort of the Xanthians, and that the soldiers of the fort may have lived in tents or buildings of perishable materials, no traces of which are left within the walls. Three lines of this inscription are cut upon the ornamental moulding, and have apparently been added at a subsequent period*. There are no signs of other tombs, and no theatre or public buildings.

Close to the scala, and near to our tent, is an isolated rock, the whole of which is crowned with a well-built Greek wall, which appears to have been the basement of a temple or some single building; its situation, rising out of the plain, is imposing.

* The inscription orders that the penalty for disturbing the tomb should be paid to the City of Xanthus.

April 17th, Xanthus.—I am once more at my favourite city—the first in which I became acquainted with the remains of art of the ancient Lycians, and in which I hope to find still more, embodying their language, history, and poetic sculpture. How might the classic enthusiast revel in the charms of this city and its neighbourhood! With Mount Cragus before him, he might conjure up all the chimæras of its fabulous history.

This morning, on leaving Uslann, which is very nearly the Turkish name for the Lion, we crossed the little river which rises suddenly from the rocks within two miles of the sea, but meanders in a brilliantly clear stream for at least three miles before it reaches the beach; it is navigable for small boats to the scala. Continuing across the plain for four miles, with drifted sand-banks on our right, we came near to what is not improperly called the Island, being a rocky hill rising amidst the perfectly level plain. On the larger portion of this hill there are no ruins of ancient buildings to be found, but some are visible on the summit of the smaller. We were unable to cross the swamp by which it is surrounded at this season, in order to examine them; but an intelligent old Greek, who was our guide, said that the stones were only the lower part of a building, which was round, but not a theatre, for it had no seats. No columns were to be seen there, nor any other remains of a city: neither tombs nor walls were upon the hill. Possibly this may have been the Letoum and temple of Apollo, which Colonel Leake expected would there be found; the easy transport of columns by sea would fully account for their absence. In half an hour more we crossed the livid waters of the Xanthus, which there divided into two streams, but both were too deep for us to pass with comfort. The horses were several inches above their girths in the water, and the baggage was partly bathed. Three men stripped, and guided us across the rapid streams. Another hour brought us here, where we intend