the plain on our return to Macry, where my first inquiry was respecting the arrival of the Beacon ship, which, in accordance with instructions sent from the Admiralty, I had arranged to meet here on this day, the 12th of May, to endeavour to transport the marbles from Xanthus to England for the British Museum. I was disappointed; the vessel had not been heard of on the coast, and I therefore at once took a boat for Rhodes, to gain what information I could upon the subject from our Vice-consul stationed there.

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CHAPTER XXIII.

RHODES.-CITY OF RHODES.-SAILORS.-LAVISSE.-CARMYLESSUS.-RETURN TO THE YEEILASSIES.-REVIEW OF LYCIA.

May 13th.-Thirty hours' endurance of the sea, mostly in a scorching sun, brought us at two o'clock in the morning to the quay within the stately harbour of Rhodes. The beautiful tower, which is the striking feature of the city, commands the entrance. The password being called, we landed, and by the light of a full moon spread our carpet on the quay, and enjoyed an English breakfast of tea and toast, long before the inhabitants of the town opened their gates.

I was surprised to find that the city retains so much of the buildings and fortifications of the Knights of Rhodes. Probably the only change in the view of the town from the harbour, during the last eight centuries, is the elegant minarets of the Turkish mosques here and there peering above the walls. Armorial bearings and architectural ornaments, of what we call the Tudor age, are seen on the fronts of almost every house; and to those who take an interest in the history of the middle ages, the castle where the last resistance and surrender was made, and the tower under which sixteen thousand Turks fell before it yielded to their sway, illustrate perfectly the scenes and events recorded. Many dates are on the walls, blended with gothic ornaments generally of about the tenth century. The rocks alone point

out the site of the famed Colossus at the entrance of the smaller harbour. I found one or two pedestals worked up in modern buildings, which show marks of Greek art in their heads and festoons, and in the well-cut inscriptions, but no other trace of the ancient Greeks was discoverable.

The present town within the walls is thickly inhabited, but the mass of the Frank population reside in its environs, each having his house within a high-walled garden. The Greek inhabitants far outnumber all the rest. There are also many Jews, who are each night locked within their own quarters of the town. Considerable excitement prevails at present against this people, owing to a story of a Greek boy having been killed as a sacrifice to satisfy some of their superstitions. The case is now pending, but no Jew passes without the hoot or howl of the Greeks; the justice of the Porte was shown on the first hearing of this affair, by its ordering three of each party, Jew and Greek, to repair to Constantinople and give all the information they could, promising at the same time that the most impartial and strict inquiry should be made into the case.

The Turks have a strong garrison here, and perhaps it may be more required than in other parts I have visited. Rhodes has seen many changes, and the great bulk of its inhabitants being aliens it may not improbably experience many more. The island has forty villages, and produces much fruit of all kinds: the peasantry are Greek, and if allowed the privileges proffered by the new Firman, they may cultivate the soil most profitably: the produce has hitherto been seized so capriciously, that the ground was only tilled for a sufficiency to supply the inhabitants. A steam-packet now touches at this island more than once in the month, on its way from Smyrna to Beyrout. Our hospitable but unpaid Vice-consul, Mr. Wilkinson, rendered me every information in his power, but could give no tidings of the Beacon ship. At noon, on the day of our arrival (the

13th of May), we were again in our boat to return, and in four hours were nearly within the bay of Macry. The breeze, which drove us on so quickly, was too fresh, and with a crash the foremast snapped off just above the deck. With one sail only we made but little way, and the land-breeze sprang up before we could reach our point. For nearly twenty hours we made scarcely any way, suffering much from the broiling sun, and paddling along with the feeble oars of the idle Greek sailors. At two o'clock on the 14th of May we were again on terra firma, and experiencing the insufferably oppressive and stagnant air of the bay of Macry.

A striking contrast in character between the Greek and Turk is seen in the sailors. The Greek will put out to sea even in a brisk breeze, and work his boat with activity; but should the gale increase to a storm, he will quit the helm and leave the vessel adrift, to repeat his prayers and cries of despair. The Turk, on the contrary, shows his fear in the first instance: he will never put to sea unless under the most favourable circumstances; but should an unforeseen storm arise, he is as unmoved as in the calm, apparently ready to meet his fate at his post, displaying a moral courage unknown to the Greek.

May 15th.-We have today ridden for two hours southward, to the village called by the Greeks Lavisse, and by the Turks Tuslee, a name which signifies 'stone village.' The first hour's ride was along a zigzag path up the steep mountain-side at the back of Telmessus, and then down a considerable descent into a highly-cultivated plain: the latter is divided into gardens, most of which have summerhouses or shelter from the sun, and each with walled fences. The town of Lavisse consists of about three or four hundred houses, well built, and entirely occupied by Greeks: from its commanding situation and the remains of a few tombs, I judge that it may probably be the site of a small ancient town, perhaps Cissida. Rising from this plain in all

directions, on the bare rocks, are seen scattered huts, mostly belonging to the Turks; one of these groups is formed by the establishment of the Aga and a small mosque. Macry is the port or scala of this place, and it is here that the post is conducted, and all official business. Skirting the plain we passed through Lavisse, and over a hill to the sea-coast, in order to examine the ruins of an ancient city, supposed to be Carmylessus, situated principally upon an island and partly along the coast. After an hour's walk however in the burning sun, we were disappointed at finding that the only boat which the coast supplies had just put to sea for Kastelorizo. Delighted with the wild grandeur of the rugged scenery, we walked back to Lavisse, and for two hours sat under the welcome shade of its luxuriant trees, surrounded by a number of Greeks, all apparently wealthy, and with talent to increase their riches. I purchased several coins of the country, and have no doubt that these people possess many which would be valued for their rarity in Europe. The intrinsic value of the metal seemed the price expected for the silver coins. I hope that some which I have collected in Lycia may prove useful in illustrating the lost history of the country.

May 16th.—We have once more escaped from the suffocating air of Macry, and are now at the bridge of the Xanthus. The season is getting too hot to travel for pleasure; we are therefore, like the inhabitants of the deserted village of Satalacooe on the opposite side of the river, upon our way to the Yeeilassy. Our route is the same as that by which we descended a few days ago, and we intend afterwards to proceed as far as we can toward Smyrna by the high lands, passing over the country between Lycia and Mount Cadmus; at all events it will be cool travelling, and the route is novel to Europeans. Enjoying the independence of a tent and horses, our wants are limited to fire-wood, water, and grass for the horses; the latter, I fear, will be the most difficult to