projecting noses alone have been subjected to the corroding action of the weather, and that their bodies within the colonnades are uninjured. At the east end I found the paws of one lion and the flanks of another, which doubtless filled the spaces corresponding with the western end. I then raised the several statues to the vacant spaces between the columns nearest to them, and again found that those parts alone of the bodies and drapery which would have projected from between the columns show the effect of the rain and wind, the rest of the figures retaining the smooth surface of the marble. Each of these statues is borne by an emblematic animal, and the drapery is blown violently by the wind. The Monument now put together requires but two whole stones to complete the larger frieze, and one to complete the west tympanum. We should then have the whole of the four friezes, the pediments and necessary architectural members, and every niche and pedestal for the reception of statues occupied by the fragmental representation of such statue."

My reasons for placing the pavement around the Monument at the level represented, concealing a considerable portion of the massive base now exposed, are the following:

At the assumed level, in excavating on the north side, we ceased to find the fallen fragments of the building, and soon afterwards lost all trace of the chips of broken marble: we then came to a dark-coloured native earth, on the surface of which we found several bronze and bone pins, arrow-heads, etc. The cisterns found at the east and west ends of the base of the building have been arched over; the crowns of these arches forming the same level, which corresponded with that of the dark earth on the north side. The level adopted has also the advantage of placing the eye of the

spectator on a line with the lower part of the sculptured frieze; whereas, had a lower one been chosen, the set-off in the massive base would have intercepted a perfect view of the sculpture.

During the whole of the excavations, although we found the limbs, feet, fingers, and drapery of the statues, we never discovered a fragment of the heads,-not a curl or feature, not an ear, a nose, or any chip of the heads of the statues, notwithstanding a careful examination of the earth surrounding the ruins. The reason for this did not occur to me at the time, and I urged the men to persevere until they should lay bare the rock; thinking it possible that the heads might have first fallen, and their broken fragments have been shaken down among the blocks, and that they might still lie concealed below. Instead of finding the expected puddingstone rock, we came upon small irregular stones, artificially cemented together; and on advancing, we found regular walls, forming a series of small houses; in these, near the openings left for door-ways, were decayed iron hinges, bolts, rings, and numerous nails; in the houses, weights, scales, and broken pottery. Upon the tiles of the floors were imprinted patterns, and amongst them the Cross of the early Christians was conspicuous; whilst upon some of the walls the Panagia of the Greek church was still to be recognized. This circumstance is interesting, as affording relative dates for the existence of the various buildings, and a probable explanation of the absence of the heads of the statues, as we know that during the third and fourth centuries the Greek Christians generally were iconoclasts. In the spring of 1846 upwards of thirty heads of statues were discovered in a well near Smyrna, doubtless thrown there from the same religious motives which caused the mutilation of the statues in this Monument. The hatred seems to have been limited to the heads of statues; the limbs are not injured, nor were the heads of the figures in bas-relief ever destroyed. There is

one head of a boy in the group on the apex of the east pediment which has escaped, possibly from its high position upon the Monument. The incidents which occurred whilst I was engaged in watching with care the progress of these excavations have afforded me the means of reasoning and drawing the conclusions offered in the early part of these pages.

482

REMARKS

FOR

THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS.

HOPING that some of my friends may be induced to visit this interesting country, I shall give a few hints as to the machinery of travelling, which will be found of use to them. A tent is the first requisite, the old cities and places of the greatest interest being frequently distant from the modern. towns or khans; and a good tent makes the traveller quite independent of the state of health of the town, which I found a very important advantage. It is desirable that the tent should be of a waterproof material. I found great use in an oil-cloth hammock, which was occasionally slung from pole to pole, but was always of service to spread under my mattress when the ground was wet. A carpet may be procured in the country, but a mattress must be taken; also a canteen, containing the usual requisites for cooking and for making tea, and a lantern. Arrow-root is the most portable and convenient material for the traveller's store; it may be prepared in five minutes, and a basin of this will stay the appetite until the dinner can be prepared, which-what with pitching the tent, lighting the fire (often with green wood), and the process of cooking-must be frequently delayed an hour or two after the traveller halts. Rice is necessary, and tea a great treasure.

I have always found the convenience of carrying a gimlet

among my travelling stores; it is a substitute for nail, hook, and hammer: inserted into the wall it forms a peg by which my clothes are frequently kept from the dirty or damp floor, or to which I can hang my glass, watch, or thermometer. The traveller will of course be prepared with every requisite for the tailor, and will take a few simple medicines.

For economy in travelling it is well to take only five or six horses; if this number be exceeded, another guide is required, and the pay to the ostlers is increased. The traveller who wishes to pay liberally and be well attended by the post, must calculate that five horses will cost him, with these extra payments, as much as seven; and this sum will cover all expenses on the road to guides, ostlers, etc., amounting to seven piastres per hour, or about four miles. On the ordinary lines of road he may travel three hours in two, being six miles an hour; this saves time, but the expense is the same. However proficient the European traveller may be in the Turkish language, I should recommend his taking a servant who can act as dragoman, as he will be thus enabled far better to understand and fall into the manners and customs of the people.

The most acceptable presents to the inhabitants are not such as are of the greatest intrinsic value, but articles of use which it is difficult for them to procure. The traveller will do well to supply himself with copper caps for the people in authority who have had percussion guns given to them, but which are rendered useless from the want of these, and also gunpowder for the peasantry: by all classes a sheet of writing-paper is much valued; leads for patent pencil-cases are very acceptable; and a common box-compass will furnish much pleasure, occasionally directing the Mahometan to the point for his prayers. I have been often asked in a delicate manner by the Greeks if I possessed a picture of our Queen or reigning sovereign; a common print of this kind would be highly prized.