white, and retain the horns, which are in this part of the world exceedingly short and thick.

The skull, with its horns, has thus been constantly presented to the eye of the Greek artist blanched white as marble, and hence the introduction of precisely this figure in the friezes of their architecture; and perhaps the vine or clematis wreathing about the horns may have suggested the frequent accompaniment of this ornament. It appears to me the more evident that this is the real origin, from its being the skeleton of the head that is depicted. Had the figure been in honour of, or connected with, the worship of the Bull, why not have exhibited the living head, which is rarely given?

From Enáe I made an excursion to the site of Old Troy, and back, a distance of about fifteen miles. Adjoining Enáe is a mound, which, if artificial, is a colossal work. I believe it is supposed to be a tumulus, and is called Enea's tomb, connecting it with the present name of this place. The mound or tomb, whichever it may be, is now, together with the fields at its base, become a Turkish burial-ground, covered with stones and planted with the cypress. A mile below the town, the stream on which it stands flows into the Méndere, which is here a large river, equal in size to the Wye, and much resembling it in scenery; it carries down much soil, and occasionally lays waste a tract of country three times its own width. About a mile further

on our route, which lay by the river, is a wooden bridge; the only other crossing at this season is by a bridge near the mouth of the river on the plains of Troy, distant eighteen miles from Old and New Troy; and in consequence, although these two places, the most interesting in this part of the country, are not far distant from each other, standing on opposite sides of the river, the traveller has to make a day's journey down the western side to Old Troy, and return, and then along the eastern bank to New Troy, and afterwards proceed to the Dardanelles. I believe at some seasons there are places in the river fordable, but there are none now. The ride is extremely picturesque: the river, with the road, generally occupies the whole of the valley, which is bounded by ranges of craggy hills richly wooded; where any inlet or hollow occurs in them, the soil is excellent and highly cultivated, exhibiting beautiful green meadows and corn-fields. Large flocks of goats, with their bells and the herdsman's pipe, give life to the scene, and climbing to the most craggy parts add to the picturesque effect.

The pipe used by the shepherds in Asia Minor is a similar instrument to those found in the tombs in Athens, specimens of which are in the British Museum; it is open at both ends, and is played by the shepherds in the manner represented on the Greek vases, by blowing sideways into it. This instrument and the lyre are sufficient evidence that the ancient Greeks, who attained a perfection in architecture and sculpture never equalled by any other age, cannot have understood the science of music.

About two miles before we arrived at Boonabassy, which word means 'spring-head,' we left the river and passed over a range of hills, commanding a splendid map-view of the

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whole of the country where the greatest nations once contended in almost endless strife: and now nations as great, then not in being, contest the point, where lived these people whose acts for ages gave even a date to the world. The continents of Europe and Asia, as well as the islands of Imbros and Tenedos, were included in the view, the centre of which was marked by the winding course of the Scamander.

In the village of Boonábassy a few relics of past days have been worked up in the mud of the hovels, but there are none to indicate the site of even a small town. This village, which is by Europeans called Old Troy, stands at the end of a chain terminating in two mountains, between which the river descends into the plains, that extend about fifteen miles to the sea. Upon one of these we rode in search of some trace of the city, of which the champions of this locality for Old Troy boast. The natives call this hill Bollhu-tepe, and some the Heights of Boonábassy. We saw on the stony top of a hill (certainly very small for the site of a city) two piles of loose stones; I think it very questionable whether put together by nature or art; and if by art, a doubt may arise as to the purpose, for I have often seen in mountain districts piles as large heaped up by the villagers as a testimony of respect, upon the spot where some too adventurous brother met with an untimely end. I could not find on this or the neighbouring heights a single squared stone, or any indication of art of any age; and this is the spot fixed upon as ancient Troy. The country was beautiful, and the ride amply repaid me, affording me new information upon the geography of this district. I saw many partridges, and two eagles; one sat boldly on a tree under which we passed, looking down contemptuously upon me, and I observed his keen eye watching me continually; it was not one of the largest sort, but of the size of a small turkey.

The hills were generally of schist, somewhat micaceous and flaky, in colour resembling serpentine, being green when wet, and of a lighter colour when weather-worn; I judged the distant rocks, from their fractures, to be limestone: they were generally covered with vegetation. In some I observed fine veins of good white marble, and others were of mountain limestone. I first saw in the town of Enáe, in the adjoining burial-ground, and afterwards much scattered over the roads, volcanic stones, which in the former places appeared as fine hexagonal basaltic columns. I am told (but place little reliance on the report of the people here) that they come from the distant chain of Mount Ida, and from near the quarry that we visited to see the granite columns. It is probable they must be found much nearer, for the people would not take the trouble to carry them so far.

I have today had an opportunity of examining some of the agricultural implements of the country; one is used for the joint purpose of threshing and of cutting the straw*. It is very primitive and curious, consisting of a thick plank of timber flat on the ground, with another smaller one inclining upwards, to which the animal is attached, for the purpose of dragging it over the corn, which is spread out on the hard rocky ground; the flat underside is stuck full of flints or hard cutting stones, arranged in the form of the palate or rough tongue of the cow. In the one which I examined I found the teeth all made of beautiful agates, and

* Implements precisely similar to these were exhibited in the "Exhibition of all Nations," 1851, in the collection from Tunis. Paul Lucas noticed this method of threshing near the Sea of Marmora. He has represented in an engraving both the instrument itself and the mode of drawing it by oxen: he describes the method of arming it with gunflints, and of making it heavy by causing persons to sit upon it. This is the tribulum mentioned by Virgil, Georg. i. 164. The Prophet Isaiah alludes to it (chap. xli. 15)—“Behold, I will make thee a new sharp threshing instrument having teeth."

on inquiry hear that the stones are found, chipped, and set near Béiramitch, in the mountains of the Idæan chain, a few miles from this place. The roller is the trunk of a tree, often weighted by the driver riding on it; it is dragged over the ground, but does not revolve.

The mode of winnowing is as primitive; advantage is taken of a favourable wind, and the corn is thrown into the air. The plough, each portion of which is still called by its ancient Greek name, is very simple, and seems suited only to the light soil which prevails here.

aporρov, the Plough. pvμos, the Pole. ivus, the Share. EXETAN, the Handle, or Plough-tail. μerada, the Yokes. катрivоs, the Goad, or instrument for driving.