of the same researches. I have also added a paper, rendering to the Trustees of the British Museum an account of the results of the Expedition for removing to our National Museum the works of Art which I discovered.

London, November, 1852.

CHARLES FELLOWS.

PREFACE

ΤΟ

A JOURNAL WRITTEN DURING AN

EXCURSION IN ASIA MINOR.

SINCE my return to England from the Tour in Asia Minor, which forms the subject of the following Journal, I have been informed at the Royal Geographical Society that parts of my route which lay through the Interior and Southern district of the country, and led me to the remains of important ancient cities, had not before been traversed by any European; and it is on this account alone that I am induced to lay my Journal before the Public.

The country through which I travelled is that small portion of Asia Minor (now known by the name of Anadhouly) which lies between lat. 42° and 36°, and long. 26° and 32°, including Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, Phrygia, Pisidia, Pamphylia, Lycia, and Caria. My route is marked in the accompanying Map.

1

As the most interesting period of the history of this country was the time of its occupation by the Greeks, so the remains of their cities form now the chief attraction to the traveller. These cities, some of them of very remote antiquity, all had their origin prior to the Conquest of the country by the Romans in the third century before the Christian æra, after which time that people were nominally the possessors of the country, and the Roman taste was visibly encroaching on the Greek in works of art. About the age of Constantine, the Christians began to produce a still greater change in the architecture of the many cities of which they had possession, including the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse, piling up buildings in a style very different from the pure Greek. Next came the Venetians, whose slight fortifications, built of the remains of ruined cities, are seen on every coast and in every important mountain-pass. The conquest by the present occupants, the Turks, succeeded in the fourteenth century. Their architectural works are few, and of a character so peculiar as to render them easily distinguishable from the earlier buildings by which they are surrounded.

The descendants of the Greeks, the ancient possessors of the soil, do not, I believe, now form a tenth part of the population; their costume and even language are so lost by mixture with the Turks, that these national peculiarities are with difficulty traced. The Greeks generally wear colours. not so gay as those of the Turks, frequently having the turban and Turkish trousers of black; green they are forbidden to use, that being the peculiar colour of a privileged few among the followers of the Prophet.

It will be gathered from my Journal, that at the time of my arrival in the country I was strongly biassed in favour of the Greeks, and equally prejudiced against the Turks; and it will be seen in the course of the narrative how this unfavourable idea of the Turkish character was gradually removed by a personal intimacy with the people, generally in situations where they were remote from every restraint but those which their religion imposes.

Of the country which I was entering I knew as little as of its inhabitants, and this want of information may be manifest in parts of my Journal; but I have given my observations made on the spot, that the fidelity of the descriptions may not be impaired. The Drawings introduced have been selected from my sketch-book for the purpose of illustration only. Those which represent the sculptured remains found at Xanthus have been seen by the Trustees of the British Museum, and I hear that on their recommendation the Government has given directions for having these monuments of ancient art brought to this country; we may hope therefore to see them among the treasures of our National Institution. I have added Translations of the Inscriptions which I copied on my tour, for the elucidation of which I must acknowledge my great obligations to my friend Mr. James Yates.

Had I been aware when I travelled through this district how little it was known, I should have made more careful observations of position and distance, to assist in mapping the country; and I should have devoted more time to the examination of inscriptions. I hope however that the partial information which I can furnish, may induce other tra

vellers better prepared than myself for antiquarian research to turn their steps to this part of the world, which not only abounds in interest connected with early history and poetry, but is so rich in existing remains of past ages.

London, May, 1839.

PREFACE

ΤΟ

C. F.

AN ACCOUNT OF DISCOVERIES IN LYCIA.

ON my visit to Asia Minor in 1838, of which I gave an account in my former Journal, I found that the district of ancient Lycia was so rich in all that is most interesting to the traveller, that, my time then allowing of only a short excursion into it, I could not but feel a strong desire to return at a future day, and explore it more carefully.

This desire was increased when, on reaching England, I learned how completely unknown this country is to modern travellers, and how much importance the learned attached to many of my discoveries.

On my second visit therefore to Asia Minor, in 1840 (the account of which is given in the Journal now published), I