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Chart of the Northern Expedition.

CHART OF THE NORTHERN EXPEDITION.

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Northern Expedition.

NORTHERN EXPEDITION.

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trance of Lancaster Sound, on the 1st of August 1819. On the 7th the ships THE long interval which elapsed, from were in the Regent's inlet, (see the the time that the Griper and the Hecla, chart,) and there, in about 90° of long. under the command of captain Parry, the variation of the needle was, we unsailed into the Polar regions, with a derstand, about 120° west. Stopped design to discover the north-west pas- by ice, they left the inlet, which is supsage, and the earliest accounts which posed either to extend to Hudson's were received from them, had created Bay, or trend along the northern shore serious apprehensions for their safety. of America, and resumed their proThey have however at length return- gress up Barrow's Straits, leaving beed; and although no official account hind them Croker Bay (the Croker has yet been published of their voyage, mountains of Captain Ross.) They we learn from the few particulars which speedily discovered the group of ishave transpired, that the enterprise has lands, where Lowther Isle is marked, been attended with more success than nine in number, and named the New any similar undertaking which pre- Georgia Isles. Proceeding onward, ceded it. The general outline which they observed, when rather more than follows, we copy chiefly from the Lite-half way to the ultimate point at which rary Gazette. they arrived, that the variation of the needle was above 120° east: thus it appears that the magnetic meridian must lie between that degree and the degree of 90, which we observe from the chart runs through the inlet, where the variation was towards the west. At sea the compass had been quite useless since the 7th August, and it was only on land that the needle traversed. The greatest dip was above 88°; and our scientific readers, putting these data together, will perhaps agree with us in supposing that the magnetic pole is situated somewhere on the American continent, between the longitudes we have mentioned, and below the latitude of 70°.

From some accounts which had been published, an opinion prevailed, that the mean temperature during twelve months at the North Pole was from ten to twelve degrees above zero. This opinion was, however, found to be erroneous, it being ascertained by our adventurous navigators, that even in the latitude where they wintered, the mean annual temperature was two degrees below zero. In consequence of this intense cold, they endured great hardships; of which it was no small aggravation, that for the last nine months they were upon short allowance of bread, and, during the summer months, of other necessaries; thus adding the cravings of hunger to the pinchings of frost.

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On the 7th of September, after encountering many dangers, the vessels were anchored in Winter Harbour, Melville Island. In the beginning of November their night began, and it lasted till the beginning of February 1820, when the sun was seen for a few minutes above the horizon. This lu

It is nevertheless pleasing to learn, that amidst these privations and sufferings, the sailors bore their situation not only with resignation and fortitude, but with cheerfulness and good_hu- | mour. Frequently, when they had returned from a day of fatiguing and un-minary gradually prolonged the time productive search for game, they wrapped themselves in their blankets, to try by sleep to forget their exhaustion, and that appetite which they durst not satisfy, lest they should, by encroaching on their next day's scanty allowance, or on their general stock, be in the end confined to these dreary regions, starving and without subsistence. Notwithstanding this, never a murmur escaped one of them; but for patience, fortitude, and firmness, they displayed a picture unsurpassed even by the noblest examples of English

seamen.

The expedition arrived at the en

during which it rose, till in June it became constantly visible, circling round and making changeless day. On the 1st of August the vessels were released from the ice, nearly as suddenly as they had been overtaken by the winter; and our hardy countrymen, with the blessing of Providence, were enabled to pursue a homeward, but still perilous course. Their furthest point was beyond 114° west. The ice all around them in the Polar Sea was above 40 feet thick; and no vessel could by possibility navigate farther in that direction, north, west, or south. It is probable therefore that Regent's Inlet will be more minutely

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explored by the next expedition, sent | returned, though with his throat all into these parts, and that hardly any other attempt will be made to the westward of Liddon's Gulf (so named from the commander of the Griper, not Seddon, as has been erroneously printed.) The ships were roofed over during the winter, and the crews did not, as reported, erect huts on shore. Melville's Island was however explored by hunting parties, and Capt. Parry crossed it, and was absent for three weeks together. It is reckoned about 150 miles long, and from 30 to 40 broad. It is also supposed that the whole sea, north of the American continent, is broken into Islands.

It does not appear that natural history has been much enriched thus far by the objects obtained. Only one Bear was seen during their stay at Melville Island. This came smelling up to the Hecla, when Captain Parry directed some of his men to shoot it. Unfortunately, through some misconception of the directions given, they fired in platoon, and only wounded the shaggy monster, which retired growling and bloody. The crews of both vessels immediately gave chase, and continued the pursuit two or three miles, when Bruin found security in crossing some ice, and the sailors were compelled to return, disappointed.

The wolves were large, and were heard nightly howling in a most disagreeable manner. The other quadrupeds found, when the summer returned, were the musk-ox, of which several were killed, the deer, the fox, and the mouse; the latter remained through the winter, were numerous, and changed from brown to white. The fowls were chiefly the arctic gull, the glaucus, the ptarmigan (which has been called the partridge), and a singularly beautiful duck denominated the king-duck.

mangled. There were no fish, and no game of any kind till the summer came, when those birds and animals we have mentioned made their appearance. Grass, saxafragium, and poppies, formed the herbage, in patches and tufts, which looked green and gay at a distance, but was very thinly scattered over the marly surface of the earth. In geology, limestone, sandstone, and slate, were most prominent; coarse granite was found in round detached pieces in the ravines, and other mineral specimens were picked up. Some of the isles were amazingly precipitous, rising from 3 to 800 feet above the water. From the entrance, of Lancaster's Sound to Melville Island, the land gradually declined, till, from towering and pointed rocks, it became gently undulated.

The distance between Winter Harbour and Copper-mine River may be about 150 or 200 miles. The whole distance which the expedition went from the mouth of Lancaster's Sound, was about 500 miles. There were traces of old Esquimaux huts on Melville Island. The lowest temperature was 55° below zero.

These are the chief facts which we have gathered respecting this truly gratifying expedition, which not only reflects honour on all concerned in it, but on the country. Mr. Barrow's prescience is happily illustrated by its results, which have so completely established all that he predicated. Nor is Captain Parry's eulogy to be lightly spoken: his whole conduct has been admirable; and we imagine that this sketch will greatly increase the public anxiety to see the precise details of a voyage which has opened a new sea to British navigation, and gone far to indicate the very seat of o one of the greatest wonders in nature. Upon this sub

The owl, in full beauty of feather, seemed to inhabit this inhospitable re-ject, we have heard that Sir H. Davy gion throughout the year.

A curious circumstance in natural history has been mentioned to us. It is stated that one of the she-wolves of the country where the vessels were laid up, formed an intimacy with a ship dog, and almost daily visited him for some time, as if he had belonged to the same species. At last the dog, a setter, belonging to one of the officers of the Griper, followed his wild companion, and was never seen more. Another dog from the Hecla also went off, but

has made some important discoveries by experiments with the galvanic battery at home; and we look with profound curiosity to the further developement of the principles of magnetism, electricity, and attraction, to which these circumstances will stimulate and help the scientific world. The tables and other data in Captain Parry's work, must be of immense consequence.

It would appear from the hardihood with which our countrymen bore the excessive cold to which they were ex

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hucksters at a village fair. They were formed of boarding pikes, &c. and covered with sails and blankets. Sometimes they tried to eat the produce of their guns; but the foxes were very disgusting, and the musk-ox resembled the toughest beef stewed in a musk sauce. The cause of the foxes being so much more distasteful than we have been told they are about Spitzbergen, is, we presume, the want of that abundance of food from the seal, morse, &c. which their species finds in the latter country.

posed, that a good deal of exaggera- We have not many other particution must belong to the accounts pre- lars to state. Captain Parry, when viously given of the sufferings endured out from the ships for three weeks, in frozen regions. We never read of went entirely across Melville Island, human beings existing at 55° below and beheld the sea on the other side. zero, at more than 12° below the point It is evident, that the icy ocean here at which mercury becomes solid; nor, contains a mighty archipelago of indeed, at any thing like that tempera- islands, of which Greenland is proture, without experiencing far greater bably the greatest. When travelling inconveniences than seem to have at- on land, our gallant countrymen hunttended our navigators. The cold, how-ed, and rested in tents like those of ever, must have been dreadfully intense, since the utmost care was necessary, to prevent the most fatal consequences. An idea of this may be formed from the fact, that a servant of Captain Sabines, on some alarm of fire being given, ran into the air without covering one of his hands; it was immediately frost bitten, and he lost three of his fingers. We understand also that another man was deprived of all the extreme joints of one hand. Ulcers on the face were the effects of incautious exposure; but we hear of no such fatal accidents as are common even in Russia. Our brave fellows stood the extremest weather with mufflers up to their noses, and warm caps descending to their eyes and covering their ears; and after a little experience of the climate, they avoided casualties by very simple means. The person bitten was himself unconscious of the attack; but each "looking in his neighbour's face" as they went, warned his companion when he saw his nose grow white in consequence of the frost. Turning from the wind, and a few minutes' gentle friction with the hand, (or, if very much injured, with snow,) invariably restored the circulation, and the tone of the part; and unless allowed to go too far, no pain whatever was felt. But when seriously affected, the agony of restoring the circulation was dreadful.

Beer, wine, and spirits, became ice; the beer was destroyed, but the wine and spirits were tolerably good when thawed.

The ship's timbers were of the temperature of the surrounding element, and wherever the iron bolts and fastenings ran through, they became studded with rosettes of transparent ice. The most comfortable sleep was obtained by converting the blankets into large bags drawn at the mouth. Into these the slumberer crept, and some comrade, who kept the watch, closed him in by pulling the strings.

During their perhiemation, the Aurora Borealis was but once or twice slightly visible to the voyagers, towards the north. Towards the south it was more vivid; but about the latitude of 60°, seems to be the seat of this phenomenon; and its appearance is not only much more brilliant from Newfoundland, but from the northern Scottish Isles, than from the Arctic Circle. Only one flash of lightning was observed by our sailors.

When the fine weather set in, several of the officers employed themselves in attempting to garden. Forcing under mats, as well as growing in the free air, was tried. One succeeded in getting peas to shoot up eight or ten inches; and these green stalks were the only green peas they devoured as vegetables. Radishes got to the second leaf, on the soil of Melville Island. Onions and leeks refused to grow. In the ships, small salad was produced for invalids; happily, the scurvy never got the ascendancy.

Other officers were engaged in erecting monuments upon the heights, to commemorate the extraordinary circumstances of the expedition. Huge cairns, by these means, crown the most obvious hills, and remain the rude but proud monuments of British daring, with inscriptions to tell the date, and inclosing bottles, in which the principal events of the voyage are written and sealed up.

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Poetry-Villager's Lay.

It was on their way home, when far down Davis's Straits, that Captain Parry fell in with two families of Esquimaux, of whose residence he was apprized by a whaler. He accordingly visited them, and they in turn visited the ships. They betrayed none of the terror which filled the tribe seen by Captain Ross; but accepted the beads and knives presented to them with inconceivable joy. Indeed their raptures were so excessive, that it was with the utmost difficulty one of them could be made to sit still while his portrait was sketched. He was continually starting and jumping up, shouting augh! augh! and playing off the most violent contortions of joy; which were participated by his comrades, when they witnessed the picture. Several of the officers accompanied Captain Parry to their huts, where they saw their women and children. The former, instructed by their husbands, who had learnt from the sailors on their visit to the ships the day before, ran out and shook hands with the strangers. There was one pretty looking girl of twelve or thirteen years of age. The children were horribly frightened, and roared lustily in spite of beads and toys. The whole number of natives was about twenty. They had probably seen or heard of Europeans before. No arms were observed among them; but one of the little boys had a miniature bow and arrow, which showed their acquaintance with this weapon. The skins of the animals they had killed seemed to be pierced with arrows as well as spears.

Taking leave of them about the end of the first week in September, the expedition steered homeward. The ships were separated by a tempest, and the Griper waited seven days for the Hecla at the rendezvous in Shetland; but the latter suffered so much damage, as to be compelled to steer directly for Leith. The Griper also was nearly lost off Sheerness. They are now both at Deptford.

THE VILLAGER'S LAY.

CANTO IX.

BY PALEMON.

Now day declines in majesty serene,
The setting sun imbues the ev'ning scene;
Attendant clouds imbibe the glorious dyes,
Or drest in liveried gold adorn the skies:
Welcome sweet hour, and day's expiring smile!
Welcome sweet respite to the labourer's toil!

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With equal joy, his round of labour done,
He hails the setting-hopes the rising sun.
While long and lone the dewy path he treads,
With weary footsteps through the neighbouring
meads;
Till wreaths of smoke announce the village

near,

And rustic ev'ning sounds salute his ear.
Birthright of Fame, or heritage of Pride;
Go, honest swain! though poverty denied
Art thou not born in the Eternal's plan?
Heir of both worlds a saint-an honest man!
To thee life's true nobility is giv'n,
The heraldry of worth, the smile of heav'n.

O ye who press the silken couch of ease,
Till even pleasures lose their power to please;
Who drug refinement till the cloying cup
Turns poison on the lips that drink it up :
O turn, and view the cottage of the poor,
Where wealth nor luxury ever pass'd the door;
Yet there contentment with serene caress,
Mingle the draught of human happiness ;
Which gold and luxury to his lord denied.
There, to your menial see the bliss allied,

strife

Not that the cottage life always prepares Unmingled sweets, nor knows disturbing cares; Not that the tranquil reign and smile of peace Mark certain empire in retreats like these: Hopes thwarted-reinless passions-marriage And all the train of ills that cling to life,— Wait on the peasant, as the titled lord, The rich man's table, and the cotter's board; Dissensions sown with fallen nature's seeds, Spring 'midst life's fairest flowers as noxious These left uncheck'd, or suffer'd to increase, Will choak domestic happiness and peace. O if good angels, with supreme delight, Behold on earth, one sweeter-lovelier sight! Why not the home where wedded love is giv'n, To typify the blessedness of heav'n? Why not where thou enjoy'st the clement smile Of love and beauty in thy native isle?

weeds:

The vital air, and life's warm transports knew:
On thy dear lap, O Britain! first I drew
An English mother's tenderest arts caress'd;
I drew the fount of life upon her breast;
And drew with it, the passion, still that reigns,
Pure as the flood from those maternal veins,
The patriot-love of Home!-though from my
birth,

I've own'd no narrower heritage than earth:

Cradled in tenderness, and nurs'd in love,Forgive this tribute, ye who can't approve And only thanks, whom I might justly praise. What filial duty owes, my genius pays,

of woman born, who hath not felt the same?
Ah, sweet endearment of a Mother's name!
Cold is the heart-contemptible the man-
With no fine feelings interwove, his plan;
The thought of feeble infancy, who spurns,
And for solicitude contempt returns ;
When pain assail'd, how oft her eye might
swim-

Unreckon'd-thankless-unreturn'd by him!
Nurs'd in a mother's arms, who hath not felt,
At childhood's sweet review, his manhood
melt?

When partial fondness once upon him smil'd,
And saw all beauty centre in her child?
'Tis Nature's voice-and if perfections crown
One loveliest child-'tis ev'ry mother's own!

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