KASHMEER SHAWLS.-For the early history of the Indian shawl, a French standard writer is quoted, who seems to know all about it. He says that the Indian shawl dates 4000 years back, and the shawl cloth of Babylonia, the silky textures of Ruth, the mantles of Thamar, and the long pieces of cloth worn by Biblical characters, were none other than shawls of Eastern manufacture. When these Asiatic veils or mantles took the form of the modern shawls, is not precisely known; but it seems pretty certain that this article of ladies' attire was introduced into Europe about 1739, by the wives of some of the French ambassadors and consuls in the East. Up to that time they were pieces of cloth that served as Coverings for the head, or as scarfs and waistbands, and of comparatively small size. There is a tradition that the light veil, fastened by a thin golden thread over the forehead, covering the back of the head and falling on the shoulders, of Leonardo da Vinci's famous portrait of Monna Lissa, wife of Francesco of Giocondo (La Joconde), was in reality one of those earlier Kashmeer fabrics, that could be drawn through a lady's ring as a test of its firmness. But the great rage for Kashmeer shawls was initiated from the specimens sent over by French officers of the Army of Egypt under Napoleon. "This fine silky web of wool," says Larousse,"worked with fanciful flowers, distinguished by the tints of its colors, its singular designs, those strange palms draped in shades of great variety, those borders formed of tortuous lines crossing each other in endless devices-all combine to inspire, at the very sight of a shawl, those who see it with a desire to possess it Fashion adopted it, protected it, and it soon became the indispensable item of an elegant wardrobe." The furore lasted for many years, and was not even checked by the almost prohibitive duty the French government levied on the originally costly fabric.

For a long time it was unknown by what process the Indians could give to their shawls those magnifi cent shades and that symmetry of design so much admired: and, although French manufacturers took to copy Kashmeer shawls on their looms, it has been found impossible to imitate them entirely, and the eyes of the initiated know at once how to distinguish an Indian from a French shawl.

On the cession of the Kashmeer principality by the British Government to Marajah Goolab Sing, father of the present sovereign, in 1845, it was stipulated that three pairs of genuine shawls should be presented every year to the Crown of England, in acknowledgment of its suzerainty. The shawls continue to be sent to this day to H.M. the Queen, who is said to bestow them as gifts to the young ladies Connected with the court.

Kashmeer shawls are made of a certain kind of wool, or rather hair, known under the native name of "toss," and produced by the Thibetan shawl goat, which wanders between the 35th and 45th degrees of north latitude, and from the 75th and 90th degrees of east longitude, over some 600,000 square miles of mountains, plateaux, and valleys, of which, however, only 50,000 square miles furnish the proper

food.

A goat yields about three ounces of wool; shawls, of all kinds, weigh on an average from three pounds to five pounds; whilst the total number of shawls manufactured in Kashmeer amounts in round numbers to 30,000.

The finest shawl wool sold in the bazaars of Kashmeer for the manufacture of first-class shawls is known as "Turfanee," and brought by the Argoons via Yarkund to Kashmeer, from the Turfan, Aksoo, Kamal, and other districts. The wool is spun into VOL. XCIII.-7

yarn by girls, whose earnings average about six to seven shillings a month, then dyed, and ultimately woven by men on rudely constructed looms, in bits from one inch to a foot square. These are cut out and given to tailors, who sew them together. Before this is done, the precious garment looks like a bundle of rags, and it takes one man three years to complete a full-sized shawl, made up sometimes of 1500 pieces, and even more. A first-rate woven shawl will fetch in Kashmeer as much as £300, in which price only £30 for procuring, spinning, and dyeing the raw material, £70 for duty, and £50 for miscellaneous expenses, are included. The remaining £150 go to the weaver and tailor.

OLIVE TREES.-The olive is largely cultivated in the Balearic Islands of the Mediterranean. The olea tree, upon which the fruit is grown, originally appears wild in the mountain-land as a shrub, producing a fruit which bears no oil. When brought under cultivation, grafting is practised. The ancient historians of Majorca recount that in olden times the olive was unknown to the Balearic Islands, and that the art of grafting was taught to the islanders by the Carthaginians. By the appearance, however, of some of the enormous and ancient-looking olive trees to be seen now in Majorca, one would be tempted to believe that their existence dates as far back as the period to which the historian refers. An intelligent Marjorcan farmer, being asked how old he thought some of these trees were, replied: "I believe they may well date from the time of the flood." It is a remarkable feature in the growth of these magnificent trees that one seldom or never sees two alike. Almost all, in the course of time, assume most grotesque forms; and upon old trees, whose trunks are rent open and torn into half a dozen shreds, is often to be seen the finest crop of fruit, while in Majorca they have in some places attained proportions akin to those of the forest trees of the tropics.

THE following editorial announcement is taken from the Philadelphia Weekly Mercury, of November 30, 1752. It is a curious jumble of information, strangely mixing up the starting of the stage-coach with the news of the day:

"On Monday next the Northern Post sets out from New-York, in order to perform his Stage but once a Fortnight, during the Winter Quarter; the Southern Post changes also, which will cause this Paper to come out on Tuesdays during that Time. The Colds which have infested the Northern Colonies have also been troublesome here, few Families having escaped the same, several have been carry'd off by the Cold, among whom was David Brintnáll, in the 77th Year of his Age: he was the first Man that had a Brick House in the City of Philadelphia, and was much esteem'd for his just and upright dealing. There goes a Report here, that the Lord Baltimore and his Lady are arrived in Maryland, but the Southern Post being not yet come in, the said Report wants Confirmation."

THE ORIGINAL "DECLARATION."-The official copy of this instrument has now been placed in Independence Hall, in a fire-proof safe especially designed for both preservation and convenient display. Its appearance is of course faded and time-worn. The text is fully legible, but the major part of the signatures are so pale as to be only discernible in the strongest light, a few remain readable, and some are wholly invisible, the spaces which contained them presenting only a blank. It is an impressive thing to stand in that Hall, and look at this venerated relic. The thanks of the people of the whole country are due to those who have exerted their influence to have it placed in Independence Hall.

THE following description of the Imperial State Crown is by Professor Tennant, mineralogist to the Queen:

"The Imperial State Crown of Queen Victoria was made in the year 1838 with jewels taken from old crowns and others furnished by command of Iler Majesty. It consists of diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds set in silver and gold; it has a crimson velvet cap with ermine border, and is lined with white silk. Its gross weight is 39oz. 5dwts. troy. The lower part of the band above the ermine border, consists of a row of 129 pearls, and the upper part of the band of a row of 112 pearls, between which, in front of the crown, is a large sapphire (partly drilled), purchased for the crown by King George IV. At the back is a sapphire of smaller size, and six other sapphires (three on each side), between which are eight emeralds. Above and below the seven sapphires are fourteen diamonds, and around the eight emeralds 128 diamonds. Between the emerald and the sapphires are sixteen trefoil or naments, containing 160 diamonds. Above the band are eight sapphires, surmounted by eight diamonds, between which are eight festoons consisting of 148 diamonds. In the front of the crown, and in the centre of a diamond Maltese cross, is the famous ruby said to have been given to Edward Prince of Wales, son of Edward IIL, called the Black Prince, by Don Pedro, King of Castile, after the battle of Najera, near Vittoria, A.D. 1367. This ruby was worn in the helmet of Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt, A.D. 1415. It is pierced quite through, after the Eastern custom, the upper part of the piercing being filled up by a small ruby. Around this ruby, in order to form the cross are 75 brilliant diamonds. Three other Maltese crosses, forming the two sides and back of the crown, have emerald centres, and contain respectively 132, 124, and 133 brilliant diamonds. Between the four Maltese crosses are four ornaments in the form of the French fleur-de-lis, with four rubies in the centres, and surrounded by rose diamonds, containing respectively 85, 86, and 87 rose diamonds. From the Maltese crosses issue four imperial arches composed of oak leaves and acorns; the leaves contain 728 rose, table, and brilliant diamonds: thirtytwo pearls form the acorns, set in cups containing fifty-four rose diamonds and one table diamond. The total number of diamonds in the arches and acorns is 108 brilliants, 116 table, 559 rose diamonds. From the upper part of the arches are suspended four large pendent pear-shaped pearls, with rose dia mond caps, containing twelve rose diamonds, and stems containing twenty-four very small rose diamonds. Above the arch stands the mound, containing in the lower hemisphere 304 brilliants, and in the upper 224 brilliants, the zone and are being composed of thirty-three rose diamonds. The cross on the summit has a rose-cut sapphire in the centre, surrounded by four large brilliants, and 108 smaller brilliants. Summary of jewels comprised in the crown: One large ruby irregularly polished, one large broadspread sapphire, sixteen sapphires, eleven emeralds, four rubies, 1363 brilliant diamonds, 1273 rose diamonds, 147 table diamonds, four drop-shaped pearls, and 273 pearls."

A SITUATION is desired by a young woman, who is competent to instruct children whose sight is defective. She is willing to make herself generally useful, and has no objection to going to a distant part of the country. Address S. A. Smith, M.D., 16 South Twentieth St., Philadelphia. References exchanged.

A CRUST of bread, a pitcher of water, a thatched roof, and love-there is happiness for you, whether the day be rainy or sunny. It is the heart that makes the home, whether the eye rests on a potato patch or a flower garden.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. UNDER this head will be found all information connected with MSS., and answers from the Fashion Editress.

In sending an order to the Fashion Editress, the cash must always accompany it, or it will not be at. tended to.

All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to

be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage.

Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks.

Any person making inquiries to be answered in any particular number must send their request at least two months previous to the date of publication of that number.

Authors are requested to pay full letter postage on all MSS. Hereafter we will not take any MS. from the post-office when the full postage has not been paid. Mrs. G. McT.-Sent skirt supporter May 10th. B. H.-Sent gold ring 15th.

Mrs. W. H. E.-Sent box 19th.

M. M.-Senf patterns 19th.

M. L. G.-Sent rubber gloves 21st.

Dr. A. S.-Sent articles by express 22d.

E. A. H.-Sent patterns 24th.

Mrs. I. F.-Sent hair switch 26th.

Mrs. A. C.-Sent skirt supporters June 11th.
J. M. C.-Sent paint bruslies 11th.
H. C.-Sent patterns 11th.

Mrs. S. E. T.-Sent patterns 11th. Frances.-Elder-flower water is perfectly harmless, and is a soothing application when the skin has become heated by exposure to the sun.

Jennie.-Long walks, or any violent exercise, immediately before or after a hearty meal are inju rious.

H. R.-Good chocolate is considered fattening. Ferdinand. The proper expression would be "a setting of eggs." The hen sits upon them.

Clara. We are quite of your mother's opinion. It is her duty, or your father's, if living, to seek an explanation from the gentleman respecting his intentions towards you.

Louise.-We have no faith in any superstition of the kind.

Gracie. For deep mourning crape ruches are worn next white crêpe lisse or illusion.

"Artists and what make them," declined.
"The Thermometer," declined.
"Anger," declined.

Thomas.-Rest satisfied with doing well, and let them talk as they will.

Agnes.-We do not believe you can find sale for any of the old Continental money. There are parties who have in their possession hundreds of the notes. Miss Georgie Gray, Providence, R. L. Replied to yours; the letter has been returned to us as uncalled for.

R. O. W.-We answered your question in the letter, that we were not purchasing. Under no circumstances will riddles or rebusses be published. Daisy.-Oatmeal will not injure the skin.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumnbonnets, materials for dresses, fewelry, envelopes, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets will be chosen with a view to ecoas well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.

Instructions to be as minute as possible, accompa nied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much dependsin choice. The publisher of the LADY'S BOOK has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of its transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the LADY'S BOOK, the Fashion Editress does not know.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq.

No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor the Publisher

will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE.

Fig. 1.-House dress of elephant-colored silk and grenadine. The lower skirt is of silk, the front and sides are kilt plaited, the back plain. The scarf drapery forming overskirt is of the grenadiue, trimmed with fringe, ribbon bows at the sides. Basque waist of grenadine with kilt plaits in the back, silk sleeves on the upper part, grenadine under.

Fig. 2.-Evening dress of pink silk. The underskirt trimmed with plaitings on the front, train plain. Polonaise of India muslin, cut low in the neck, trimmed with garlands of roses and foliage and puffs and Valenciennes lace. Bertha of lace and flowers; pink ribbon sash. Hair arranged in puffs, long curls in the back, and flowers to match those on dress.

Fig. 3.-Afternoon dress of pale blue damask and silk. The underskirt is of the damask, the overdress and basque are of the plain, trimmed with a band of darker blue and fringe. Sleeves to match underskirt.

Fig. 4. Walking dress of pale green silk. The upper part cut as a polonaise, the skirt kilted upon it under the sash: the sleeves and trimming are of black silk. Black chip bonnet, trimmed with green silk and black feather.

Fig. 5.-Walking dress of purple silk and plaid grenadine. The underskirt is of the purple silk, trimmed with a knife plaiting and puff. The overskirt and basque are of the grenadine of a lighter shade, trimmed with a knife plaiting of silk; silk sleeves. Lilac chip bonnet, trimmed with silk and feathers.

DESCRIPTION OF EXTENSION SHEET.

FIRST SIDE.

Fig. 1.-Visiting dress. The underskirt of brown silk, the back breadths kilt plaits, the front with a plaiting and puffs above it forming the trimming. The overskirt and basque bodice are formed of rows of écru-colored lace and pongee. The sleeves are of silk. Chip bonnet, trimmed with the two shades, blush roses inside the brim.

Fig. 2-Walking dress. The underskirt of gray silk, trimmed with three ruffles; the basque bodice also of silk. The overskirt and sleeves are of plaid grenadine, trimmed with silk fringe. Bonnet of gray straw, trimmed with gray and blue.

Fig. 3.-Evening dress of white grenadine. The underskirt made with knife plaitings of white and one of rose-colored silk, with puffs of grenadine above them. The overdress is trimmed with two rows of fringe, with rose-colored ribbon bows fastening it up the back. Basque bodice; elbow sleeves, trimmed with silk.

Tig. 4.-Evening dress of pale blue silk, with a plaiting and ruffle upon the back breadths; the front is trimmed with folds of figured grenadine, put on slanting and finished with fringe. The same grenadine forms the drapery at the back, and bodice, made up over the silk; plain silk sleeves, trimmed to correspond.

Fig. 5.-House dress. The underskirt of black velvet, the flounce upon it of velvet, trimmed with silk and silk puffs above it. The overskirt and basque are of écru-colored Cashmere, trimmed with fringe; black velvet sleeves.

Fig. 6.-Dress for light mourning, composed of black silk and grenadine. The underskirt is of silk; the overskirt and basque of grenadine, the sleeves of silk. The trimming is cords of passementerie and bands of silk.

Fig. 7.-Bonnet of écru-colored chip, trimmed with black velvet, écru silk and feather, écru lace and black velvet inside the brim.

Fig. 8.-Gray straw bonnet, trimmed with brown and gray ribbon and feathers. Pink roses inside the brim.

Fig. 9.-Black chip bonnet, trimmed with écru silk, and ornaments of metal.

SECOND SIDE.

Figs. 1 and 2.-Sleeveless basque and tunic, made of black net, trimmed with narrow black velvet, stripes of lace insertion, and edged all around with

lace.

Figs. 3 and 4.-Front and back view of dress for young lady, made of plaid wool goods, trimmed with fringe, bands of the plain color of underskirt, and tassels and cords.

Figs. 5 and 6.-Dress for young lady, made of navy blue silk and cru-colored grenadine. The underskirt is of the silk, trimmed with kilt plaitings; the overskirt and basque, which is buttoned up at the back, is of the ecru, trimmed with bows of the blue, and a fringe and a heading of écru.

Fig. 7.-Moyen-âge damask fichu. This fichu is made of a strip of white moyen-âge damask two inches wide, and is trimmed with lace half an inch and an inch and three-quarters wide, and gold soutache. A folded strip of tulle is sewed in the neck. The plaited ends, which are sewed on the fichu as shown by the illustration, consist each of a piece of tulle ten inches and seven-eighths long and twelve inches wide, trimmed with lace and gold soutache. A bow of pink gros grain ribbon finishes the fichu in front.

Fig. 8.-Black kid boot, open up the front, and fastened up with buttoned bands; it is to be worn over colored stockings.

Fig. 9.-Rabat of Organdy muslin and lace. This rabat is made of two pieces of Organdy muslin, some Valenciennes insertion, and lace. The muslin is plaited perpendicularly, and the ends are sewn into a band, which is covered with a spray of convolvuli to match the bouquet.

Fig. 10.-Boot of French kid, with box toe, laced across the front to show the colored stocking underneath.

Fig. 11-Necklace of silver.

Fig. 12-Fan of Russia leather and silk; it closes and folds up into the handle.

Figs. 13 and 14.-Front and back view of boy's kilt suit, made of two shades of brown striped camel'shair; the trimming and vest are of silk.

Fig. 15.-Dress for little boy, made of gray Cashmere or wash goods, and trimmed with bands of plaid; the sleeves are made to correspond. Sash of gros grain.

Fig. 16.-Evening coiffure and bertha; the latter is formed of illusion, with wreath of gilt and green leaves through the centre; those arranged in the hair are to correspond.

Fig. 17.-Invalid's jacket. The material is soft, creamy white Indian silk, and the trimming the new Cashmere lace, with bows of colored ribbon. There is a bouillonné of silk at each side of the front, and a cascade of lace and ribbon down the centre. The trimming forms a point at the back.

Fig. 18.-Gros grain and lace fichu. This fichu has a foundation of blue gros grain an inch and threequarters wide and thirty-four inches long, which is trimmed with a side-plaited falling ruffle of crêpe lisse an inch and three-quarters wide, and two similar standing ruffles an inch and seven-eighths of an inch wide respectively, and with a row of lace an

inch and three-quarters wide. A fold of blue gros grain covers the seam made by setting on the ruffles and lace. At the bottom of the waist the fichu is finished by a bow of gros grain.

Fig. 19-Bonnet of pearl-colored chip, trimmed with blue and pink ribbon, feather, and wreath inside the brim.

Fig. 20.-Velvet and lace fichu. This fichu consists of a bias strip of black velvet twenty-nine inches and a quarter long and an inch and three-quarters wide, lined with lustring, and edged with cream-colored lace three-inches and a quarter wide. The fichu is finished in front with velvet bows.

Fig. 21.-Cuff of linen, pointed around the edge, with a plaiting of linen cambric below the points. Fig. 22.-Striped linen collar.

Fig. 23-Ladies' night-dress, cut sacque shape, with a yoke formed deep in front, of rows of tucks in scallops, edged with a trimming.

Fig. 24.-Dressing sacque of Nainsook muslin, made with a broad puff down the front, with a trimming each side; the puff is divided by bands running crosswise; the cuff on sleeve is made to correspond. The collar is trimmed with an edging to correspond with the other.

Fig. 25.-Basque for dress. Our model is made of black silk matelasse, and is trimmed with plain silk, as the underskirt of the dress is. This model will of course serve for any plain goods.

Fig. 26-Gymnastic costumes for girls, made of white, blue, or gray flannel, and trimmed with worsted braid of a contrasting color.

CHITCHAT

ON FASHIONS FOR JULY.

WE have received several inquiries from our fair readers, as to how they with limited means are to follow fashions which are given in elegant materials. We reply, that, in whatever class of the social world one moves, one can meet the exigencies of fashion, so far as not to shock received ideas, by wearing garments of quite forgotten models. Any pattern we give as being in silk or elegant goods, trimmed with lace or elegant fringe, can be reproduced in wool, simply edged with woollen braid; but its cut at least will be just the same, and the outline of the wearer will be elegant in spite of the simplicity of the cos tume. One should not wear, without any kind of modification, toilets of three or four year's standing. The last fashionable models, of which our illustra tions give a faithful representation, furnish a thousand ways and means of altering and modernizing old dresses, either by combining two together, if their colors harmonize, or by adding a few yards of some tissue, à la mode, such as Cashmeres, camel'shair, or any of the numerous woollen goods of which there is now such a large assortment to choose from. Cashmere is particularly well adapted for such transformations. Its softness and the immense variety of tints in which it is to be found render it quite unique for making up dresses, à la Juive draperies, flounces, plissés, bouillons, etc., with which a somewhat faded or old-fashioned silk skirt may be brightened up; besides which the great durability of this material recommends it to the favor of the economical.

In silk there is a new material, the texture of which recalls shagreen leather, which looks extremely well combined with plain silk.

A pretty walking dress is of blue grenadine, plain and plaided. The plain material is employed for the skirt and the polonaise. The skirt is trimmed in front with a plaited flounce. Above the flounce, the tablier is trimmed with a bias fold formed of the fancy grenadine, the plaided pattern of which is

formed of satin stripes of unequal width. The same fancy grenadine is employed for the revers of the polonaise, which is open at the back, and to which is fastened a scarf of the plain material, which is placed under the polonaise, and is turned back over it. The revers of the bodice and the under part of the sleeves are also of the plain material. The newest style of making dress sleeves at present is to have the upper and lower sides of different materials.

For croquet and country dresses there are costumes of the finest ginghams in gay colors, trimmed with Smyrna lace, an old linen lace known to our grandmothers. Though "only gingham," these costumes are elaborately made. The polonaise is the overdress prepared for them, and the single skirt is bordered with a wide flounce trimmed with lace. This is very much admired in gray and blue plaid gingham, with white Smyrna lace, and many bows of gray grosgrain ribbon. Another gingham costume has a toque hat and parasol also made of the gingham, and trimmed with white embroidered muslin frills. A third, most dashing of all, is the Roman plaid gingham of black, rose, and white, trimmed with Russian lace that is partly white, partly rose-color. The bows about this dress are of black gros grain ribbon, with rose-colored facings.

Among the freshest summer washing dresses are those of pink and of blue batist, partly striped, partly plain, made up elaborately, and trimmed with plait ings, sashes, ribbon bows, insertion, and lace. For these the polonaise is much used, but there are others with long apron overskirts formed entirely of di. agonal puffs, alternating with white insertion, edged with lace, and tied back with ribbons. Sometimes the bodice is fastened behind, and is also formed of puffs and insertion. Other dresses have basque bodices and little fichus of plain batist. Gray and écru batist have by no means been abandoned as overdresses for black or brown silk skirts. That fashion is too sensible and comfortable to be readily given up. The handsomest of these are polonaises trimmed with wide bands of white embroidery, and orna mented with black gros grain bows. The back has the familiar Marguerite effect, yet is what is called the French back, as it has but one seam. The front fastens in the middle, but the wide embroidery is arranged to give a diagonal effect, or else that of the shield passing straight down the middle; it is then brought up on the sides to where the Marguerite bodice stops, and caught there by a bow of long loops. The skirt of the back is bordered with many plaitings of batist. There are bracelets and bows of the ribbon on the wrists, and a bow at the back of the neck.

Many of the new black silk and grenadine costumes are ornamented with écru braid embroidered with either blue or scarlet, and many of the new navy-blue linen costumes are trimmed with Russian lace em. broidered in color and with white embroidery worked with colors. White muslin dresses and black batist dresses embroidered with straw are very popular this season, and for dinner dresses there are coarse net tunics worked all over with white floss silk in palm pattern, with sleeves to match, and these promise to be great favorites. The black batist dresses trimmed with plaitings of Valenciennes are likewise great successes.

Jet is again in favor, and particularly colored jet, such as blue jet, bronze jet, pink jet, and smoke jet, which is a steel-gray shot with blue, and is the most stylish color which has yet appeared.

Cream-color has become a disease: fashion, so to speak, is jaundiced, for the inevitable yellowishwhite has even found its way into lingerie, and, instead of snow-white linen collars and cuffs, the latest