To touch the Father's sheathed and sacred blade, Spoil crowns on Jefferson and Franklin laid, Or wash from Freedom's feet the stain of Lincoln's blood! Hearken, as from that haunted hall Their voices call: "We lived and died for thee; We greatly dared that thou might'st be; We claim denials which at last fulfil, III.-1. Here may thy solemn challenge end, Or in one choral with the Present blend, And that half-heard, sweet harmony Of days that were, and may again return That was so sure in thine old solitudes- Won from the mixture of thine elements, And winnow truth from each conflicting dream! Some force unspent, some essence primitive, For Fate, to mould thee to her plan, Withheld the udder and the orchard fruits, Fed thee with the savage roots, And forced thy harsher milk from barren breasts of man! III.-2. O sacred Woman-Form! Of the first People's need and passion wrought- But fair as morning and as heart's blood warm- Or from Rome's central seat, Whose being circles all No more a Chieftainess, with wampum-zone In thine own native beauty dressedThe front of pure command, the unflinching eye, thine own! VOL. XCIII.-13 III.-3. Look up, look forth, and on! There's light in the dawning sky; The clouds are parting, the night is gone: Prepare for the work of the day! Fallow thy pastures lie And far thy shepherds stray, Till the bounty of coming hours Be just, and the world will know! In the great task, for thee to die, BAYARD TAYLOR. The next piece on the musical programme was a Triumphal March, with a chorus, entitled "Our National Banner;" words by Dexter Smith, of Massachusetts, music by Sir Julius Benedict, of England. The following are the words: O'er the high and o'er the lowly In the rays of freedom's sun; Let the banner wave forever, Till the stars shall pale on high; As it floated long before us, Be it ever floating o'er us, O'er our land from shore to shore; Wave it, save it, everinore. At the conclusion of the singing Mr. Ferry introduced the orator of the day, Hon. Wm. M. Evarts, of New York, who was received with long continued cheering. He delivered an address, which occupied over an hour in the delivery, but to which the audience patiently listened to the end, though but a small portion of them were able to hear his voice. At the conclusion of the oration the chorus sang grandly the great "Hallelujah Chorus," which was probably never better rendered in this city, and without doubt never as well in the open air. Each part, each solo, was distinctly heard in any part of the square, and it received the applause which it so richly deserved. The exercises were then closed by singing the Doxology, The Old Hundredth Psalm, in which all joined. After the services were ended, the people insisted on their right to see and call out their favorites. General Sherman yielded to the demands and stepped upon the platform, where he was roundly cheered. He was followed by General Sheridan, who was as warmly greeted as ever. Mr. Evarts then brought forward successively General Hooker, General McDowell, Governor Carroll, of Maryland, and Governor Newell, of New Jersey; and finally Governor Hayes, of Ohio, Republican candidate for President, consented to appear, and the applause was deafening. It was regretted that Governor Tilden was not also present, that he might be similarly recognized. Mr. Ferry then called for cheers for Mr. Evarts, Bayard Taylor, General Hawley, the French Minis ter, the British Minister, John Welsh, Governor Hartranft (who had been often called for but did not respond), and asked that in the absence of the Chief Magistrate, three times three should be given for him. The hospitality of Philadelphia also received three cheers, and finally the people insisted on giving three cheers for the Vice-President. The cheers were all given until everybody was hoarse, and then the multitude broke up slowly and dispersed, some to their homes and others to hear the music in the square. At the close of the ceremonies the new bell tolled out the number of States. THE FIREWORKS IN THE PARK. Before six o'clock in the evening the street cars on the different lines running to the Park began to be crowded with people who were bound for the Park to see the display of fireworks by Professor Jackson, and for the next two or three hours they were packed to their utmost capacity, in some cases even the roofs being covered with boys and men. Carriages, wagons, transfer coaches, and every style of conveyance was called into requisition, and tens of thousands of men, women, and children who found it impossible to obtain transportation, thronged the streets leading to the Park, making their way afoot. At the Park the scene was one that is to be seen but once in a lifetime. Out Callowhill, Green, Fairmount Avenue, and Spring Garden Streets and Girard Avenue came a steady stream of pedestrians pouring into the gates, while every street car discharged its overcrowded passengers to add to the throng, until by eight o'clock such a mass of people was assembled as has probably never before been seen in one place in Philadelphia, or perhaps in the country. The fireworks were erected on the heights between the Brown Street and Fairmount Avenue entrances, along the line of the Reading Railroad, facing the Schuylkill, and the whole plateau, reaching from the waterworks to Lemon Hill, and from the railroad to the river, was a solid, densely packed mass of humanity. The hills on the opposite side of the river were also completely covered with people. The preparations for the display were complete, and everything seemed to promise a successful and beautiful exhibition, when, about half-past eight o'clock, just as the performance commenced, by the burning of colored fires, the clouds which had rapidly been gathering began to drop rain, and vivid lightning and heavy thunder mingled with the artificial pyrotechnics. The immense crowd, however, stood their ground, and the exhibition. Several handsome pieces were fired, with excellent effect, and were loudly applauded. The lightning continued frequent and bright, at times dimming entirely the light of the fireworks. Soon the rain began to fall more rapidly, and in a few minutes had increased to a heavy shower. Professor Jackson and his assistants hurried things along, and succeeded in setting off all the large pieees before they were destroyed by the rain, some of them being very elaborate and beautiful, particu larly the great "Temple of Liberty," which was last on the programme. The entire exhibition, however, which was intended to last two or three hours, was necessarily crowded into half an hour, a new piece being lighted before the one before it was entirely burned out, and the display closing about nine o'clock. Taking the circumstances of the rain into consideration, however, the display was highly creditable. THE key of the Bastile, which is preserved at Mount Vernon, was presented to General Washington by General Lafayette, after the building was destroyed during the French Revolution, on the 14th of July, 1789. This prison was so accursed as a place of torture and of suffering, that the fury of the populace of Paris turned against the building was the first great event of the French Revolution. The Bastile was originally a royal palace, and was built by Charles V., in 1369. EVERY lady should use the "Frank Miller Crown Dressing" for their own and her children's shoes. It gives the richest gloss and color, and leaves the leather soft and pliable. It is really a very superior article. TAKE care of little things. Springs are little things, but they are sources of large streams; a helm is a little thing, but it governs the course of a ship; a bridle bit is a little thing, but see its practical use and power; nails and pegs are little things, but they hold large parts of buildings together. So a word, a look, a frown-all are little things, but they are powerful for good or evil. Think of this, parents and teachers, and mind the little things in the lives and words and actions of the children intrusted to you. GENERAL SHERMAN IN A TEMPER.-A good joke on the general is going the rounds of the fun-loving coteries of Washington, the hero of which is, sad to say, a dog. It appears that the general owned a pretty little dog, who, as may happen to dogs and men, got led astray. In vain they searched; he was gone. Each day the general listened for the pet dog's honest bark baying deep-mouthed welcome as he drew near home. In vain; he heard no bark. But one day a servant rang the house-bell and handed in an elegantly-monogramed and sweetly-scented letter, whose contents were found to be as pompously follows: "Pound-master and Mrs. Blynstine present their compliments to the general of the army and Mrs. Sherman, and have the honor to say that a certain small dog, supposed to be the property of the general of the army and Mrs. Sherman, has come into the possession of Pound-master and Mrs. Blynstine. On payment of a trivial forfeit, usual in such cases, Pound-master and Mrs. Blynstyne will take great pleasure in restoring the dog to the general of the army and Mrs. Sherman." The general of the army carefully kicked the pompous servant down stairs as a compliment to Poundmaster and Mrs. Blynstine, and then sent a colored man to the public pound to pay the fine and redeem the bow-wow. So wags the world. THE SEWING MACHINE was invented in 1844 by Elias Howe, Jr., of Massachusetts. In 1845 he constructed a machine considered by competent judges equal in all essentials to any that have succeeded it. Yet for several years there was no sale whatever. Last year the Howe Manufacturing Company alone sold seventy-five thousand sewing machines, while several of the other leading companies sold from twenty to fifty thousand each. Even these figures fail to convey an adequate idea of the benefit conferred by this single instance of Yankee ingenuity. WOOING. A RICH man came a wooing me, But he was getting old, And half his words were of his love, Were mingled through and through, While holding out the tempting bat To see what I would do. He told how wondrous fair and bright And told of webs of India's looms, And silks and velvets fair, And vapory webs of snowy sheen He told of jewels like the stars That jem the midnight skies, And diamonds which he said would match The splendor of my eyes; And robes that might become a queen, He said that pearls like drops of light My life-long dreams and hungerings And touched a thousand hidden chords The wild, deep longings of my soul Love of the beautiful had been A passion strong and wild; I worshipped at fair nature's shrine, And now temptation held me fast, I must unto another's hands Give womanhood and youth, And at the altar pledge a vow And so a swift revulsion came, That tinged my pallid cheeks with shame, I rose again in strength and pride, To my fond lover and his love I bade a kind good-by: And so I smothered back the dreams And so the short temptation passed ANNA LINDEN. THERE is another fellow about as impudent as Lizt, the pianist. This is Worth, the dressmaker. A New York correspondent furnishes the following information, which should be interesting to our lady readers: "Very many ladies send regularly to the great man dressmaker, Worth, in Paris, for their dresses, both in summer and winter. Do not for a moment suppose all these women have seen Worth. The greater proportion send a photograph to him, with a description of the complexion, the color of the hair, eyes, etc. It is not an infrequent occurrence to have the photograph returned to the owner with regrets at being unable to compose a toilet for madame.' A lady of high fashion in this city relates how she went to Worth on one occasion to have a number of dresses made. He asked her to walk across the room. It was a medium-sized apartment. When she was about half across, he called to her from the sofa, where he was sitting, 'Madame, that is enough; I cannot invent a dress for you; your figure does not please me. Good-morning, madame!' A mother and daughter in this city, charming women, but newly rich and over-anxious about dress, wear the most exquisite toilets of Worth's composi tion, which are entirely unique. They have never been to Paris, or waddled through the Tuileries,' yet Worth has seen them--that is, he has their life. sized pictures; he admires them, and sends thei poetical and ravishing dresses." Is it possible that American ladies can stand the impertinence of this fellow? No lady will, we are sure. Parvenues may. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. UNDER this head will be found all information connected with MSS., and answers from the Fashion Editress. in sending an order to the Fashion Editress, the cash must always accompany it, or it will not be altended to. All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage. Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks. Any person making inquiries to be answered in any particular number must send their request at least two months previous to the date of publication of that number. Authors are requested to pay full letter postage on all MSS. Hereafter we will not take any MS. from the post-office when the full postage has not been paid. Mrs. B. H. R.-Sent necklace June 15th. Miss N. M.-Sent silk 16th. A. V. R.-Sent pattern 16th. Mrs. B. S. S.-Sent necklace 19th. Mrs. E. S. O.-Sent articles by express 19th. Miss F. M. B.-Sent patterns 21st. Mrs. J. H. C.-Sent goods by express 23d. Mrs. W. F. S.-Sent tea-tidies 234. Miss S. H.-Sent colored cotton 25th. H. M.-Sent linen 8th. Maria.-Its previous publication prevents its ap. pearance in the LADY'S BOOK. Nellie.-You did not do wrong, but you had better not do more than bow when you see the gentleman again. It would be wrong to encourage his attention, as you are already engaged. James J. P.-We decline your charade with thanks. The subject is good, but the metre is very defective. Horace.-The expression sub-rosa, meaning "under the rose," privately, originated in the rose being among the ancients a symbol of secrecy; hence it was their custom to hang it up at entertainments as a token that nothing said there should be divulged. Miss K.-No such MS. is in our possession. R. F.-The article is under consideration. Fashions. NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS. HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department wil hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelopes, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets will be chosen with a view to economy as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given. When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final. Instructions to be as minute as possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. The publisher of the LADY'S BOOK has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of its transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the LADY'S BOOK, the Fashion Editress does not know. Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq. No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor the Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting. DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE. Fig. 1.-Walking dress of navy-blue silk, made with two skirts, the lower and upper one trimmed with plaid grenadine of two shades of blue. The basque is of the grenadine, with silk sleeves. Bonnet of blue silk and crape, trimmed with ribbon and white flowers. Fig. 2.-Brides' dress of white silk. The skirt has an overskirt in front trimmed with fringe and wreaths of orange-blossoms; the sides are trimmed with plaitings; the basque with puffs of illusion and plaitings of Valenciennes lace. Basque bodice, trimmed with fringe. Illusion veil; half wreath of orange-blos soms. Fig. 3.-Walking dress of purple grenadine and silk of two shades. The skirt is of the grenadine with trimming of silk, and silk pocket. Basque bodice of grenadine, with silk sleeves. White chip bonnet, trimmed with white feathers and silk. Fig. 4.-Visiting dress of matelasse and brown silk. The underskirt is of the brown silk, the polonaise of the matelasse, buttoned at the side of skirt. The sash is of brown. Pearl-colored chip bonnet, trimmed with brown silk, feathers, and field-flowers. Fig. 5.-Carriage dress of two shades of green silk. The back breadths are of the dark silk, trimmed with a plaiting and ruffle. The front part, forming the overskirt, is made on the dress, is of the light shade, which is striped. The back of overskirt is made of this lined with the plain; it and front part are both trimmed with fringe. Basque bodice of plain green, with striped sleeves. Green crêpe de Chine bonnet, trimmed with white feather and silk. DESCRIPTION OF EXTENSION SHEET. FIRST SIDE. The lower Fig. 1.-Evening dress of pink silk. skirt trimmed with one ruffle, with narrow plaitings above it. Overskirt of white muslin, trimmed with lace and looped with pink roses. Pink silk bodice, trimmed with flowers and white lace. Fig. 2.-Walking dress of gray debège. The back is trimmed with a plaiting, the front has an apron formed of plaitings and bands of silk. Basque bodice, trimmed to correspond with front. Gray chip bonnet, with silk crown and feather trimming it. Fig. 3.-Visiting dress of écru-colored pongee. The lower skirt is trimmed with one band of navy-blue and écru plaid silk above it; the same trims the overskirt, basque, sleeves, and pocket, and the bows in the back are made of it. Ecru chip bonnet, trimmed with navy-blue and écru silk and flowers. Fig. 4.-Dinner dress of black silk, made with two skirts, the lower one trimmed with a knife plaiting and heavy fringe knotted in points. The overskirt is trimmed to correspond; over it a sash is looped. Basque bodice. Fig. 5.-Walking morning dress of plain and striped percale. The underskirt is of navy-blue, trimmed with two plaitings: the upper skirt and basque are of striped blue and gray, with plain blue trimming them. White straw hat, trimmed with navy-blue and a bird. Fig. 6.-Carriage dress of brown silk and cru silk grenadine matelasse. The underskirt is of the brown; the overskirt and basque bodice of the figured and plain grenadine, trimmed with the brown silk and fringe. Ecru chip, trimmed with brown silk and feather. Fig. 7.-Black chip bonnet, trimmed with black lace, pink roses and berries and silk; pink flowers inside the brim. Fig. 8.-Bonnet of white chip, trimmed with navyblue silk, bird, and cluster of white flowers at the back; silk arranged inside the brim. SECOND SIDE. Fig. 1.-Fashionable bonnet. Fig. 2-White surah body, half-fitting, with postilion basque; all the edges are piped with pink. The top, opened shawl-shape, is surrounded by a drawn band, trimmed with white lace, with inner stand-up collarette high at the back. Pink surah cravat, with bows in the middle of the body and at the bottom of the sleeves, which are puffed in their width, and trimmed at the bottom with two lace frills. Fig. 3.-Ladies' drawers. Fig. 4.-Velvet necklet, ornamented with silver filagree bands, and a silver pendant from it. Fig. 5.-Habit shirt of pale blue, pink, or lavendercolored silk, to be worn over a black or white dress. Figs. 6 and 7.-Front and back view of fancy apron for little girl, made of French Nainsook, and trimmed with colored ribbon. Fig. 8.-Fashionable umbrellas. Fig. 9.-Dress for girl of seven years, made of brown Cashmere, the front breadth striped with bands of écru; basque bodice. Brown straw hat, trimmed with brown and écru. Fig. 10.-Dress for girl of four years, made of white muslin, and trimmed with graduated ruffles at the sides, tucks up the front, and four ruffles in the back. Fig. 11.-Dress for girl of nine years, made of two shades of gray debege; the trimming is simply folds of the material. Fig. 12.-Dress for girl of five years, made of gray camel's hair, the skirt formed of alternate puffs and folds. Jacket to match. Gray chip hat, trimmed with silk and flowers. Fig. 13.-Suit for boy of four years, made of écru camel's hair, trimmed with brown braid and buttons. Brown straw hat. Fig. 14.-Dress for girl of ten years made of écrucolored pongee, trimmed with plaitings of the same, and navy-blue ribbon bows. Fig. 15.-Dress for girl of nine years, made of piqué, and trimmed with Hamburg edging. Hat of white chip, trimmed with white muslin. Fig. 16.-Suit for boy of six years, made of navyblue cloth, trimmed with braid. Fig. 17.-White chip bonnet, trimmed with white silk crown, and daisies around it; ribbon bow at the back. Figs. 18 and 19.-Front and back view of dress for little boy, made of gray linen. Fig. 20.-Russia leather fan, which closes. Fig. 21.-Black satin fan, painted; feathers on the top. Fig. 22.-Ribbon and fan for ball-dress. The fan is of ivory and white satin, ornamented with artificial flowers. Fig. 23.-Gray chip bonnet, trimmed with silk and variegated flowers; the same inside the brim. Fig. 24.-Ladies' kid walking boot, trimmed with bow at the top; rubber elastic in the sides; the toes are ornamented with stitching. BASQUE BODICE. (See Engravings, Page 121.) Figs. 1 and 2.-Front and back of basque bodice for dress. The back of sleeves and of the basque has puffs of silk let in it. The collar comes down in front to the waist. Pockets on each front. CHITCHAT ON FASHIONS FOR AUGUST. WE have been asked so many questions about fichus, Dolmans, capes, and jackets, that we consider it better to answer all the questions here, as they may prove of benefit to our numerous readers. Many desire to cut old garments over to the present fashionable shape, and we will endeavor to give the different shapes, as these garments will be used for country wear during the summer. To begin with the shapes worn, we may almost say they are innumerable. Some jackets are long all around, some short at the back and long in front, some tight in the back and loose in front, and others tight both at the back and in the front. The Princess of Wales Polonaise is one of the most ladylike garments we have seen for a long time. It is a long jacket shaped to the figure, and with coat sleeves. The skirt is ample, and the model we saw was trimmed with several rows of braid. A band of the black Cashmere came in a point below the waist at the back, and was also trimmed with braid. A long, pointed pocket at the side was trimmed with braid in the same manner. This is being imitated in light materials; but in Cashmere, trimmed with military braid, it would be pretty and becoming to a tall figure, The shorter jackets are very much trimmed down the back with bows of gros grain and lace, in what the French term coquillés. These jackets are made in silk, Cashmere, or material matcling that of the dress. The trimmings used on silk are silk fringes, lace, and plaitings of the silk. Yak lace is not very popular, having become exceedingly common; the finer kinds are now used. On jackets made of the same material as dress, military braid, of the same shade or darker, is the favorite trimming. Fichus are of all kinds of shapes; the prettiest and newest are those in the shawl shape, Fichus with ends are still worn, and there is a pretty new trimming which looks very well upon them. It is made of the same material as the tape fringe, and is very fluffy and soft in effect. The handsome old-fashioned silk fringes with knotted headings are being worn again; and we have come to the conclusion that none of the later and newer inventions equal these in appearance or in wear. We have seen some of the little shawl fichus of colored crape or Cashmere embroid. ered, and trimmed with one of these fringes about eight inches in depth, and admired them very much. Capes are not as much worn as last year; they are much trimmed at the back, and have long ends in front. Dolmans are very popular; these are usually much trimmed, and are frequently braided and embroided all over. Some of these, intended for evening wear, are very pretty, being made of white broché, lined with white silk, and trimmed with ostrich and marabou feathers and chenille fringe. Broche is a material composed of silk, with raised pattern in velvet. For a travelling and seaside costume, we would suggest the very fine summer beige materials, which are to be had in all the newest shades of buff and gray. The very long polonaise comes down very nearly to the bottom of the underskirt in front, and is loosely caught up very low down at the back, so that the underskirt may be either quite plain or merely trimmed with one flounce or plaiting at the back. Extremely handsome fringes, composed of three or four rows of fluffy woollen balls, finished with tassels, and in two shades of gray or brown, to match the dress, are in great vogue for matching such costumes. The costume for travelling is completed by a short circular, trimmed all around with similar fringe. It has a long, pointed, and narrow hood, also edged with fringe at the back, and a bow of ribbon to match, to mark the bend of the waist in the middle. With a straw bonnet, trimmed with ribbons of the same shade, and a cluster of fieldflowers; this will prove a very useful and elegant costume for the country and for the beach. For dressy toilets, the great skill of our costumiers just now consists in draping with graceful art a wide scarf of some rich, fancy material over a plain gored skirt of silk. We have already given several models of this style, which is not easy to explain by mere written descriptions; we will, however, attempt to give our readers some idea of a dress trimmed en écharpe, which we noted as particularly tasteful. The dress was of palest rose-colored silk serge, the plain front trimmed low down with quillings of cream lace, put on with light torsades of rose-colored ribbon. The sides were covered with finely-plaited quillings of the material, framed in all around with lace. A deep quadruple Bulgare plait formed the heavy train at the back. The écharpe which formed the tunic was a very wide one of brocaded cream gauze, extremely light and soft, crossed over the plain front part, and then arranged in a graceful chiffonnage at the back, finished into two unequal ends, richly trimmed with lace and pale pink torsades. The bodice, made Princess fashion in front, all in one with the skirt, was prettily ornamented with a plastron of quilled cream lace; at the back it formed a small, fancifully-shaped basque, finished with rose-colored ribbon and lace. This dress is very beautiful for evening wear, in white; with tulle and lace scarf and trimmings, it would be exceedingly pretty. When we speak of the polonaise as being more fashionable than ever, this must be understood only of the demi-toilet style of dress, of toilets for walking or driving, or for ordinary wear at home. All dressy toilets are made with the trained Princess robe, ornamented with light draperies, or merely trimmed en quille at the sides, with lighter ornaments in front, and deep, plaited train at the back. The simple morning dress is, by some strange whim of fashion, also made in the Princess fashion; and, as it is only worn in the house, is always made much longer than the walking costume. Whether of linen, cambric, Cashmere, or beige, the robe de chambre is invariably made with pretty aumonière pockets, collar and cuffs to match, and trimmed all down the back. The bow at the back is quite optional. Wide Elizabethan belts of Russia leather or of black velvet are again stylishly worn with basques, polonaises, and Princesse dresses, especially those intended for semi-dress, such as de beige, batiste, gingham, and plain black silk. Black velvet belts, with silvered buckle and clasps, are liked with va rious dresses, but more especially with the gingham and batiste suits that are now trimmed with black velvet bows down the front, on the sides of the skirt, at the back of the neck, and on the wrists. A wide velvet band is then passed around the neck, and a silver filagree ornament worn suspended from it. Long white scarfs of crêpe lisse, tucked in each end, are worn as neckties and cravat bows in mourning. Three-cornered neckerchiefs of black net, fringed with tape fringe, are also used in mourning. Gold embroidery in linen cuffs and collars is a strik |