than our own, who are here to join us in this commemoration.

success.

The citizens of Ohio have been deeply interested in this celebration, and are greatly gratified by its If events are to be ineasured by their results, the work of the great founders of the National Government may well be commemorated by the people of all the States, and by none more heartily than by the people of Ohio. When independence was declared, Ohio had no existence. Over all that is now Ohio, stretched one vast, unbroken wilderness. Mr. Webster, in the great debate in the Senate, described it as a wilderness which had perpetu. ated itself from century to century ever since the creation. In an extent of hundreds of thousands of square miles, no surface of smiling green attested the presence of civilization. It was a fresh, unbounded, magnificent wilderness. No permanent settlement of civilized men had yet been made anywhere within the limits of Ohio. And, my friends, what is Ohio now? [Cheering and confusion from the swaying and pushing of the crowd.]

A State with three million of inhabitants-a greater population than that possessed by all the Colonies when they achieved their independence. But it is not for me, it is not for us, fellow-citizens of Ohio, to dwell on the growth, the progress, the prospects, the prosperity, the history of Ohio. Á very interesting and instructive address, covering all these topics, was delivered some weeks ago by a distinguished citizen of Ohio. We are here to-day, as citizens of Ohio, upon the invitation of the Board of Centennial Managers of our State, to complete the commemorative exercises on our part contemplated in the original invitation of the National Commission. It is enough for me, it is enough for the citizens of Ohio, to say that we rejoice that our homes are in Ohio. It is enough for us to say that we are grateful that our lines have fallen unto us in such pleasant places, and that we have such a heritage as Ohio now is.

Ohio has been signally honored here by the selection of one of her citizens as the Director-General of this great enterprise. We are glad to know that General Goshorn has so discharged the duties of his office that his name will be honorably remembered in connection with this Exhibition forever, for his name goes into history with it. [Applause.] We wish, as citizens of Ohio, to congratulate especially the citizens of Philadelphia and the people of Pennsylvania on the fortunate issue of this great enterprise. It is mainly their enterprise. Upon them its great burden devolved, and to them belongs the lion's share of the glory of its great success. [Cheers.] This Centennial Exhibition is now drawing to its close. It will not be forgotten; it will pass into history; it will live in the minds of our countrymen, linked with recollections of the fathers whose work it has so fitly commemorated. We hope-nay, we confidently believe-that the influence of this celebration will be to extend and perpetuate the principles of our Revolutionary ancestors, and to give increased assurance to all mankind that the new nation brought forth on this continent a hundred years ago is destined under Providence long to remain the home of freedom and the refuge of the oppressed.

THE GOVERNOR'S RECEPTION.

The conclusion of the governor's speech was the signal for a general renewal of the enthusiasm, the First Brigade Band, stationed near by, playing several selections. Thousands in the multitude were unable to clearly see the governor. He was escorted to an adjoining balcony on the second story, where he modestly acknowledged the enthusiastic reception accorded to him by politely bowing to the people below. After remaining on the balcony a few moments, during which he was repeatedly cheered, the gov ernor returned to the reading-room and received the Centennial Commissioners and Board of Finance, the members of the two organizations being presented by Director-General Goshorn. The governor was next escorted to the large hall in the rear, used as a public reception-room, where a passage-way had been reserved between the eastern and western entrances.

At ten minutes of 12 o'clock the public were admit

ted. The governor, attended by his staff, stationed himself near the centre of the hall, and, as the visitors passed him, cordially grasped the hand of each, overlooking no one, from the youngest to the oldest of his guests. During the first fifteen minutes he shook hands with over five hundred persons, but after that it was found necessary to admit the throng less rapidly, and the rate was reduced from thirtyeight to twenty-two per minute. Among the first in the line was Miss Nichols, of the Woman's Pavilion, who handed the governor an elaborately - worked fern-leaf motto containing the words, "All Glory to God," with the dates 1776 and 1876 inscribed at each end. In the envelope was a note explaining the gift was worked for the governor by Mrs. Weaver, of Salem, Ohio, but owing to the pressure of the crowd, the governor was unable to open the envelope until several moments had passed, and it was then too late for him to make an acknowledgment of the neat tribute. The motto was placed in a prominent position on the west wall.

Soon after 2 o'clock, the fact becoming apparent that to admit the crowd on the outside awaiting an entrance, and which still continued to accumulate, would occupy till nightfall, Governor Hayes reluct antly yielded to the suggestions of the State Managers to bring the ceremony to a close..

At fifteen minutes before 3 o'clock, the governor, accompanied by Director-General Goshorn, left the building and took the cars on the steam railway for the Memorial Hall station, where he alighted and passed through the Main Building.

At about four o'clock, while making a tour of the buildings and grounds under the escort of Mr. Goshorn and several members of the Gubernatorial staff, Governor Hayes arrived in the vicinity of the Municipal Building, at which the Commercial Exchanges of other cities were being entertained at lunch by their Philadelphia brethren. At the door of the building the governor and his companions hesitated, and were on the point of withdrawing, when, upon the solicitation of Mayor Stokley, the party were induced to enter. Governor Hayes was presented to the company by Mr. E. Harper Jeffries, of Philadelphia, and received with hearty applause. The governor responded in acknowledgment of the cordiality of his reception, which, he said, he construed to have been tendered, not as a compliment to himself as an individual, but to the office of the Chief Executive of the great State of Ohio. Addressing Mayor Stokley, he added that the pleasure of meeting so many of the representative men of the business interests of the country was an unexpected one, and that, as he had been honored with an introduction, his only purpose was to pay his respects to the gentlemen present. He thanked the people of Philadelphia, through their Mayor, for the generous manner in which they had greeted the name of Ohio, and the welcome they had extended to her Executive, and closed by saying that, whatever may be the result of the present ephemeral political strife, we would all remember that we are Ameri

cans.

The governor's brief remarks were interspersed with rounds of cheers, which were renewed upon their conclusion.

Mayor Stokley followed in some pertinent remarks, and the visitors in a short time withdrew to continue their trip through the enclosure.

WHEN any one is run over in St. Petersburgh the carriage causing the accident is confiscated, the horses are taken to the fire brigade for public use, and the driver is imprisoned and flogged. Hence fewer accidents than anywhere else.

THE BEAUTY OF FORM.-Every country has its standard of beauty. Turkey and Africa-especially the latter-set up fatness of the female form as their standard. In our own country an accumulation of fat is not regarded as a part of beauty; consequently they who are troubled with excessive fatness do all in their power to get rid of it. We have heard of girls eating slate-pencils, and we know of one who drank vinegar as freely as water to make herself look genteel and graceful. A girl who is constitutionally fat cannot reduce her weight except by severe regimen. To resort to any other means will certainly ruin her health. The girl who drank vinegar freely succeeded in exchanging her hearty manner, fresh, rosy complexion, and robust form, for a languid air, pallid hue, and an exceedingly genteel and delicate figure. The result of the exchange is constant suffering, arising from the complete wreck of a fine constitution.

Tight-lacing is another pernicious habit. In vain the family physician raises his voice in warning; in vain comes Fashion's mandate from over the water that small waists are no longer in vogue-but no use. The American girl will persist in killing herself by inches daily. No other countrywoman on the face of the earth sees the beauty in tight-lacing that she does. The plump and meagre abuse the corset alike. Our girls forget that a beautiful form must be in proportion. The idea of a girl fully developed squeezing her waist into an eighteen-inch corset! And how often we hear the boasting remark: "My waist measures but eighteen or twenty inches." If a small waist was considered such a great point of beauty, how is it that the statue of Venus of Milo was fashioned with a waist measuring thirty-two inches? "A waist thirty-two inches! What an ungainly figure!" you will say. Not at all. The Venus of Milo is a perfect conception of the female form.

The number of our girls who are anxious to get rid of fat are few in comparison to those who wish to acquire that plumpness of form which is really essential to beauty. It is said that the plumpness of the women of the East is caused by their habits of idleness aud wantonness, and that our women are thin and meagre of form, generally on account of the constant activity of their mind and body. It is

a well-known fact that habits of indulgence-plenty of sleep, and physical and moral indolence-produce fat; but food-the quality, not the quantity eatenhas more effect than anything else on the plumpness of the body.

Dr. Gazenane says that "immoderate love, and especially jealousy, are very apt to produce excessive thinness." After that, no girl who desires to be plump and rosy will fall too desperately in love; neither will she allow the green-eyed monster to take up his abode in her heart.

Girls who are grieving because they have not that fulness which is required to make the female form perfect, should remember that plumpness is by no means the sign of a sound constitution, and that some of the hardiest races were possessed of thin, wiry frames. The skilful toilet nowadays has resources enough to make up the defects of the form, and all ingenuous means to remedy it should be avoided. The girl of light structure and easy, graceful movement is often envied by her more robust sister. Of course it isn't pleasant to think of one's self as a walking bone-rack: yet the more a thin girl thinks on this subject the thinner she 'll grow, and there's no help for it-for, if nothing else, a discontented spirit will keep her thin.

The only sure way to grow fat is to lead a regular life, be free from all nervous excitement, exercise moderately, have some light occupation, and take

CLAIR

THE Scientific American contains some useful hints regarding the prevention of explosions of oil lamps. Among other things it says: "All explosions of petroleum lamps are caused by the vapor or gas When that collects in the space above the oil. full of oil, of course a lamp contains no gas, but immediately on lighting the lamp consumption of oil begins, soon leaving a space for gas, which commences to form as the lamp warms up, and after burning a short time, sufficient gas will accumulate to cause an explosion. Many things occur to cause the flame to pass down the wick and explode the lamp. 1. A lamp may be standing on a table, or mantel, and a slight puff of air from the open window or door may cause an explosion. 2. A lamp may be taken up quickly from a table or mantel and instantly exploded. 3. A lamp is taken out into an entry where there is a draft, or out of doors, and an explosion ensues. 4. A lighted lamp is taken up a flight of stairs, or is raised quickly to place it on the mantel, resulting in an explosion. In these cases the mischief is done by the air movement-either by suddenly checking the draft, or forcing air down the chimney against the flame. 5. Blowing down the chimney to extinguish the light is a frequent cause of explosion. 6. Lamp explosions have been caused by using a chimney broken off at the top, or one that has a piece broken out, whereby the draft is 7. Sometimes a variable and the flame unsteady. thoughtless person puts a small-sized wick in a large burner, thus leaving a considerable space along the 8. An old burner with its air edges of the wick. drafts clogged up, which rightfully should be thrown away, is sometimes continued in use, and the final result is an explosion.

FOR ladies' and children's boots and shoes, the Crown Dressing is rapidly displacing all others. Its proprietors, Messrs. Frank Miller, Son & Co., New York, is the largest house of its kind in the country, and are never known to press and inferior artic Those who have tried the Crown Dressing speak of it most highly-Harper's Bazar.

THE above building is in the Gothic style of architecture. It was built by Judge Potter, of the Supreme Court of New York, for a permanent residence, upon the side of a high, rocky hill, overlooking the town of Whitehall, New York. It is situated upon a level plot of ground, about one hundred and fifty feet above the town, with the hill rising high above it in the rear, and is one of those quiet, unobtrusive pieces of architecture that is seldom seen in this country. It was constructed of white sandstone, laid rubble, and pointed the color

SR

DR

FIRST STORY.

of the stone, with a black uniform line marking the joints. The roof is covered with slate; the porches, cornices, etc., are of wood. The house is very com modious, having all the necessary apartments to make it a first-class residence. It is considered by many of acknowledged taste to be one of the most successful and beautiful residences in the northern portion of the State, although in point of expense very many treble it in cost, which was about $25,000. The interior is well finished, good plumbing, heating, and all other conveniences of the present day are abundantly and richly supplied. The above

SECOND STORY.

inches; SK summer kitchen, 14 by 17 feet: SR storeroom, 6 feet 9 inches by 10 feet: C chamber, 14 feet by 16 feet 6 inches: BR bath-room, 6 feet 9 inches by 8 feet 9 inches; P pantry, 5 by 10 feet.

Second Story.-C chamber, 15 feet by 14 feet 3 inches; C chamber, 15 feet 3 inches by 20 feet: C chamber, 15 by 24 feet: C chamber, 14 feet by 17 feet 8 inches: BR bath room, 7 feet by 12 feet 6 inches; BC bed chamber, 10 feet by 17 feet 6 inches; BR billiard-room, 14 feet by 18 feet 6 inches; DR dressingroom, 8 by 14 feet

HOLLOWAY'S MUSICAL MONTHLY for December is just published, containing several attractive pieces of music for piano or organ. Send 40 cents for it, or $4 for next years' subscription, to Mr. Holloway, and receive by return mail.

A New Premium, and the most liberal ever of fered. Any subscriber, new or old, sending in the name of a new subscriber, with $8 for the two, will receive in addition to the Monthly, a nicely-bound volume of new sheet music, containing songs and piano or organ pieces, costing in the regular way about $10; 64 sents in stamps must be sent for postage on the premium. This is a splendid holiday present. Sample copies of the January number now ready, for canvassing, will be sent on receipt of 25 cents; regular price 40 cents.

New Sheet Music.-Under the Mistletoe, new edi tion of Glover's beautiful Christmas song, 25 cents. Christmas Bells, fine duet and chorus by Stewart, 30. Around the Fire, Christmas song and chorus, Holloway, 30. Kriss Kringle March, by Fawcette, with splendid title, 50. Slightly Soiled Music: We are closing out a lot, very slightly soiled, of 25 cent to 50 cent pieces at 10 pieces for $1. Send at once. Address all orders for music or the Monthly to J. Starr Holloway, Publisher, 811 Spring Garden Street, Philadephia.

IN Brazil diamonds are found on mountains 6000 feet above the sea. The crystalline cannot be cut, and is called "Bort." It is made into powder, and used for cutting other gems. The amorphous variety is opaque and of a gray color, and is called carbonate or diamond carbon; it is used for polishing diamonds and other hard stones, and is much used by the watchmakers of Switzerland for polishing rubies for jewelling watches.

Fashions

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any, who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelopes, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets will be chosen with a view to economy as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.

Instructions to be as minute as possible, accompa nied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. The publisher of the LADY'S BOOK has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of its transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the LADY'S BOOK, the Fashion Editress does not know.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq.

No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor the Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE. Fig. 1.-Visiting dress of brown silk. The lower skirt is trimmed with plaited ruffles of two shades of silk and velvet; the overskirt with black lace and

Brown

velvet. Basque bodice, bound with velvet. velvet bonnet, trimmed with feathers and silk. Fig. 2.-Reception dress of two shades of purple silk and matelasse. The underskirt is trimmed with one ruffle, with a narrow plaiting on the edge, and a band of matelasse above it, and heading the flounce. The front of the dress is made of the matelasse and light silk, trimmed with fringe and shells of silk. Sleeveless basque of matelasse; dark sleeves.

Fig. 3.-Walking dress of two shades of elephant color. The skirt and sleeves are of silk of the dark. est shade; the polonaise is of figured wool matelasse of the lightest shade, trimmed with fringe. Velvet bonnet of the two shades, trimmed with silk, and feathers.

Fig. 4. Evening dress of pink silk and white silk matelasse. The underskirt is of the pink, formed of slanting folds, divided by lace and loops of ribbon. Polonaise short in front, forming a train in the back, trimmed with lace and a narrow fold of silk; neck square, trimmed with lace, and illusion folded inside; elbow sleeves. Hair arranged high; pink feather in it.

Fig. 5.-Carriage dress of blue silk matelasse; the lower skirt trimmed with two plaitings and a band of velvet. Overskirt and basque trimmed with broad velvet band and sash loops, and ends in back. Velvet bonnet of the two shades, trimmed with silk and flowers.

DESCRIPTION OF EXTENSION SHEET.

FIRST SIDE.

Fig. 1.-House dress of gray silk and Cashmere. The underskirt is of the silk; the polonaise is buttoned down the back, and is trimmed with pocket, buttons, and bows of silk.

Fig. 2.-Walking dress of navy blue silk and camel's hair. The underskirt is of silk, the overdress and basque of camel's hair; the skirt is trimmed with a deep knotted fringe, and a large silk bow in the back. The basque is plaited on the sides, deep in front. Felt hat, turned up at one side, trimmed with ribbon and flowers.

Fig. 3.-Walking dress of black Cashmere; the underskirt trimmed with a deep plaiting, the overskirt with ball fringe. Black velvet hat, trimmed with velvet and feather. Cashmere sack, deep in front, trimmed with two rows of fringe and feather bands.

Fig. 4.-Visiting dress of plum-colored silk and velvet; the underskirt is of silk, trimmed with plaitings and ruffles. Polonaise of velvet, the front trimmed with fringe, the back with embroidery. Plum-colored velvet bonnet, trimmed with lace, feathers, and flowers.

Fig. 5.-Carriage dress of brown silk and velvet; the underskirt of the silk, trimmed with plaitings: the overdress and basque of velvet, trimmed with fringe and écru lace. The waist is trimmed with silk, and silk sleeves. Bonnet of brown velvet, trimmed with silk and flowers.

Figs. 6 and 8.-Front and back view of walking dress, made of navy blue silk and striped camel's hair. The underskirt is trimmed with ruffles, edged with knife plaitings. The polonaise is buttoned down the back, with revers of silk turned back; silk or striped sleeves, as fancy may dictate; it is trimmed with a wool fringe. Bonnet of velvet, trimmed with feathers, lace, netted silk, and flow

Fig. 9-Suit of brown Cashmere; the underskirt trimmed with silk plaitings, the overdress with the same; silk pocket and bow at one side; cuirass basque, bound with silk. Bonnet of velvet, trimmed with silk and feathers.

SECOND SIDE.

Fig. 1.-Suit for child of five years; navy - blue Cashmere dress; ulster of blue waterproof. Hat sailor shape, made of felt, trimmed with velvet.

Fig. 2.-Suit for girl of eight years, made of myrtle. green serge. The skirt trimmed with two plaitings. Sacque of the same, trimmed with silk bow at the waist, and sash. Felt hat, trimmed with velvet and feather.

Fig. 3.-Suit for boy of ten years, made of gray tweed.. Felt hat.

Figs. 4 and 5-Gymnastic costume for boys. Fig. 5 is of striped flannel; Fig. 5 of navy-blue bound with black.

Fig. 6.-Trimmings for chemise. See page 561 for description.

Figs. 7 and 20.-Ulster coat for a girl of eight (front and back). Light gray cloth. The coat is doublebreasted, and is plaited at the back, each plait being fastened down with a patte. Pockets, cuffs, and revers all bound with narrow braid. This coat is worn over a dark-gray velvet dress.

Fig. 8.-Gymnastic costume for girl of seven years, made of navy-blue flannel, trimmed with cardinal red braid, the full drawers underneath are also of flannel.

Figs. 9 and 10.-Front and back view of ladies' basque, with lacing across the back, front, and sleeves.

Fig. 11.-Dolman of black Cashmere, trimmed with fringe and passementerie; ribbon bows.

Fig. 12.-Pendant of gold and brilliant set with fine pear-shaped pearls, the centre one of unusual beauty. Fig. 13.-Spotted lace veil, trimmed with an edge. Fig. 14.-Dress for child of two years. The front in kilt plaits; the back loose and fastened by a sash.

Fig. 15.-Cloak for child of four years, with cape plaited in the back, fastened with buttons.

Fig. 16.-Baby's shirt, made of linen lawn, and trimmed with narrow lace.

Fig. 17.-Infants' slip, made of Nainsook muslin, and trimmed with a narrow edging.

Fig. 18.--Suit for boy, made of navy-blue cloth, and trimmed with bands of Astrakhan fur and frog buttons.

Fig. 19.-Gymnastic costume for girl of six years, made of gray flannel, trimmed with bands of blue or scarlet.

Fig. 21.-Scotch fishwife costume. Like the French costume, this may be worn at a fancy ball. The chief difference between the two is the headdress, the Scotch woman tying a Madras handkerchief over her cap. The Scotch woman wears two petticoats, a navy-blue under one, and a striped yellow-white upper one; the latter having three tucks. The laveuse tunic is blue and white striped flannel; the white linen apron forms the pocket. The Garibaldi bodice is of flowered chintz: the cloak is blue duffel, and the fish basket slung at the back.

HATS AND MOURNING BONNETS.
(See Engravings, Page 508.)

Fig. 1.-Mourning bonnet of black silk, trimmed with crape and silk flowers.

Fig. 2.-Mourning bonnet of black silk, trimmed with crape ruches and bows.

Fig. 3.-Cream-colored felt bonnet, trimmed with silk and flowers.

VOL. XCIII.-37

Fig 4.-Bonnet of black velvet, faced with cardinal silk, trimmed with ribbon loops and cardinal wing. CHITCHAT

ON FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER.

THERE is certainly an attempt on the part of our modistes to return to a great simplicity of outline in dresses. But alas! while the cry is for simplicity in material, costliness and extravagance seem the order of the day. Heavy fabrics are very much more fashionable, rich fabrics falling in straight folds, for dressy toilets, and requiring plain fashions, with wide plaits well marked. With such shapes the only suitable trimmings are lace, and more especially old lace of priceless value, so much and so justly appre ciated, fringe and braid. Velvet, plain or striped satin, gros grains, faille, and brocatelle; such are the materials of this style of toilet. Dresses for the daytime, for visiting, or promenade toilets are always long-skirted, but not invariably Princess shaped. The walking costume is subject to all the modifica tions which fancy can suggest; and it is this variety which renders modern toilets so original and pretty; it permits a lady to affirm her own personality, by the choice she knows how to make from among a thousand things which might tempt her, but which her reason and good sense alone may forbid or allow. Daytime costumes are mostly made of part woollen material and partly silk or velvet, and the shapes most generally adopted are those spoken of early in the season-draperies and polonaises, with trimmings of all sorts, braid, fringe, fur, etc. The cuirass paletôt, somewhat masculine in shape, is made either of the same material as the dress, or of cloth or velvet. Cashmere is the material par excellence for general wear, because it is sufficienly warm without being so heavy as other woollen fabrics. It is to be had in every shade of light or dark colors, and associates most happily with faille, gros grains, or even velvet; thus composing most elegant and tasteful toilets for the autumn and winter, which will remain fashionable long after all the new fancy materials now in vogue have become quite dé modés.

Many a garment of last year's make may be renovated and made to look fashionable again, if care is taken to alter its shape a little and to trim it anew. This year braid of very stylish effect is the best of trimmings for such a purpose. Embroidered braid is the most elegant; it is very expensive, but ladies may work it themselves, and thus procure a very beautiful and original style of ornament at comparatively small expense. By selecting a not very elaborate design, one can easily work the plain woollen braid so as to make it look extremely tasteful. Camaieu tints produce pretty, sober, lady-like patterns. If a different color is chosen to that of the braid itself, it should not be such as to form a gaudy contrast. Upon a dark blue dress, for instance, the braid might be black and embroidered in point russe in several shades of blue. This style of embroidery looks quite as well, and even better, In fine wool than in silk.

Our lady readers will find in the pages of this maga zine many patterns of borders or insertions which they can very well adopt to braid embroidery. The embroidered braid will be much more elegant than the brocaded, for what is worked by hand always is, and nothing gives a more dainty and soigné appearance to a lady's dress than anything she has taken the trouble to arrange and trim with her own fingers. Braid can also be worked with chenille, to which the introduction of small patterns in silk knotted stitch and point d'or adds much beauty and effect. This work is quickly done, and will no doubt be a pleas. ure to many of our fair readers.

There is no color exclusively adopted by fashion