Cement for Iron Stove Pipes and for filling Cracks in Stoves.— Equal parts pulverised clay and fine wood ashes, and a little salt; mix with water to the consistency of putty.

Cement for Stoves and Ranges.—Mix fire clay, with a solution of silicate of soda.

Cement for Chemical Apparatus.-Melt and mix starch, glycerine, and gypsum to required consistency.

Cement for Joining Metals to Bone, Ivory, and Wood.-Mix litharge with glycerine to the required consistency.

Cement for Leather, Canvas, Cloth, Parchment, &c.-Melt and mix glycerine with glue.

Cement for Thick Leather.-Melt and mix glycerine with glue, and add pure tannin to proper consistency.

Pale Tough Cement.-Dissolve 75 parts of white indiarubber in 6 parts chloroform, and add 15 parts mastic and a little glycerine.

Porcelain Cement.-Add plaster of paris to a strong solution of alum. Cement for Fastening Metal Tops on Oil Lamps.-5 parts water, boiled with 3 parts resin, I part of caustic soda, and mix with half its weight of plaster of paris.

Cement for Fixing Brass Letters on Glass.-Copal varnish, 15 parts; drying oil, 5 parts; turpentine, 2 parts; liquified marine glue, 5 parts; melt in a water bath, and add 10 parts dry slacked lime.

Tough Cement for Various Purposes.-Guttapercha, 1 lb.; indiarubber, 4 oz.; dissolved in bisulphide of carbon; pitch, 2 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; boiled oil, 2 oz.; melted together.

White Cement for Shells and Various Purposes.-Best gelatine, 1 oz., dissolved in water; then add drachm glacial acetic acid and a small quantity of powdered and sifted calcined oyster shells.

Cement for Coating Acid Troughs.-Melt together, 1 part pitch, I part resin, and 1 part plaster of paris.

Thick White Cement.-Resin, 4 oz.; beeswax, 1 oz.; plaster of paris, 5 oz.; borax,

oz.

Cement for Fixing Iron Bars into Stone.-A compound of equal parts of sulphur and pitch.

Indiarubber Cement.-Dissolve 2 oz. of pure white raw indiarubber inpint benzoline or bisulphide of carbon; heat in a hot water bath.

Cutlers' Cement for fastening the Blades of Knives into Handles. -Resin, 4 parts; beeswax, I part; brickdust, I part. Another cement for the same is resin, 4 parts; pitch, 4 parts; tallow, 2 parts; brickdust, 2 parts.

Cement for Box Wood and other Hard Woods.-Dissolve oz. isinglass in alcohol; and mix sugar, oz.; box wood filings, I oz.; and add a little acetic acid.

2

Cement for Cementing Emery to Wood.-Melt and mix equal parts

of shellac, white resin, and carbolic acid in crystals; add the acid after the others are melted.

Strong Paste Cement.-Glue, 1 part; flour, 4 parts; add sufficient water and boil gently; then add a little glacial acetic acid and mix well.

Paste for Labelling Tin and Iron, &c.-To ordinary paste add a small quantity each of glue and chloride of calcium. Another is: to 8 oz. of paste add 20 drops of a solution of chloride of antimony. And another is: 10 oz. mucilage of gum tragacanth; 10 oz. honey of roses; and 1 oz. flour.

Waterproof Cement.-Gelatine, 5 parts; solution of acid chromate of lime, I part; after using, expose the article to sunlight.

Waterproof Paste Cement.-To hot starch paste, add its weight of turpentine and a small piece of alum.

Cement for Repairing Bronze and Zinc.—Mix powdered chalk and zinc-dust, and stir them into soluble glass solution of 30 B, until the mixture is fine and plastic.

Cement Lining for Inside of Cisterns.-Powdered brick, 2; quicklime, 2; wood ashes, 2; made into paste with boiled oil.

Cement for Seams and Joints of Stone Cisterns, &c.—Powdered brick, 6; white lead, 1; litharge, 1; mixed to a paste with boiled linseed oil.

Cement for Joining Porcelain Heads to Metal Bars.-Mix Portland cement with hot glue.

Cement for Fixing Tiles in Grates and Fireplaces.-Mix with hot glue, to the consistency of mortar, equal parts, sand, plaster of paris, and hair mortar.

Cement for Alabaster.-Melted alum.

Strong White Cement.-Mix finely powdered rice into a paste with cold water, add warm water to the proper consistency, boil for five minutes, and add a small quantity each of dissolved isinglass and acetic acid.

White Cement.-Plaster of paris mixed with alum water. White Cement.-White lead, whiting, a small piece glycerine, well mixed with a little dissolved isinglass to the required consistency.

Common Black Sealing Wax.-Common resin, 6 lb.; yellow beeswax, lb.; lamp black, 1 lb.

Common Red Sealing Wax.-Window glass resin, 6 lb.; white beeswax,lb.; colour with venetian red.

Sealing Wax.-Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 9 oz.; colophony, 3 oz.; and enough pigment mixed with turpentine to colour it.

Sealing Wax.-Resin, 6 lb.; red ochre, 1 lb.; plaster of paris, lb.; linseed oil, 1 oz.

Sealing Wax.-Resin, 50 parts; red lead, 37 parts; turpentine, 13 parts.

Shoemakers' Wax.-Melt equal parts pitch and resin; then add a

little tallow; pour into water, and pull it into cords till tough; cut into pieces and keep in water.

Heel-ball.-Mix together beeswax and vegetable black, and enough resin to give it the required hardness.

Strong Cement.-Equal parts guttapercha and shellac, melted and mixed with a little white lead.

Tough Cement.-White raw indiarubber, 2 oz.; isinglass, oz.; guttapercha, 3 oz.; bisulphide of carbon, 8 oz.; heat in a hot water bath. Cement for Fixing Paper on Glass.—Soak glue in vinegar, boil, and add flour to required consistency.

Cement for Worm-eaten Wood.-Mix whiting with phenic acid and essence of turpentine, and a little linseed oil; before applying, paint the wood over, and allow it to soak in, with a mixture of 1 oz. chili capsicum and 1 quart benzoline, properly dissolved

Cement for Filling up Cracks in Stove Grates.-Make a paste of pulverised iron and water glass.

Waterproof Cement used by Calico Printers.—1 lb. binacetate of copper and 3 lb. sulphate of copper, dissolved in 1 gallon of water, and the solution thickened with 2 lb. gum sanegal; 1 lb. British gum; 4 lb. pipeclay, and 2 oz. nitrate of copper are afterwards added.

Cement for Fastening Cloth on to Metal and Wood Rollers.— Common glue and isinglass, equal parts; soak in small quantity of water for 10 hours; then boil, and add pure tannin till it becomes thick; apply hot.

Cement for Marble.-20 parts, fine sand; litharge, 2; dry slacked lime, ; plaster of paris, 1; make into a putty with boiled linseed oil.

Cement to resist White Heat.-Pulverised clay, 4 parts; plumbago, 1; iron filings, free from oxide, 2; peroxide of manganese, 1; borax,; seasalt,; mix with water to thick paste; use immediately, and heat gradually to a nearly white heat.

Jewellers' Cement.-Isinglass, oz.; gum mastic, oz.; gum ammoniacum, 1 drachm; dissolve in alcohol; heat and well mix.

Cabinet Makers' Cement for Fastening Cloth and Leather, &c., on to Wood.-Boil 1 lb. rye flour into a thick paste with water; next melt 3 oz. glue in a little water, and add 2 oz. treacle; add this mixture to the paste, and boil with water to the required consistency.

Non-conducting Cement, for Covering Boilers and Steam Pipes. -Portland cement, I part; flour, 2; fine sand, 1; sawdust, 4 parts; mix these dry, and then add, clay, 4 parts; plasterers' hair, part; mix well together with water to the consistency of mortar; apply with a trowel to the thickness of an inch; when dry, apply successive coats of same thickness until from 5 to 7 inches thickness of composition is applied; let each coat dry before applying another, and finally give it 2 or 3 coats of tar.

Cement for Joints, to resist Great Heat.-Asbestos powder made into a thick paste, with liquid silicate of soda.

Cement for Steam and Water Joints.-Ground litharge, 10 lbs. ; plaster of paris, 4 lbs.; yellow ochre, lb.; red lead, 2 lbs. ; hemp cut into inch lengths, oz.; mix with boiled linseed oil to consistency of putty.

Cement for Steam and Water Joints.-White lead, 10 parts; black oxide of manganese, 3; litharge, 1 part; mix with boiled linseed oil to consistency of putty.

Cement for Cisterns and Watercourses.-Powdered burnt clay, 50 parts; powdered fire brick, 40 parts; litharge, 10 parts; mix with boiled linseed oil to consistency of thin plaster. Wet the parts to be covered with water before applying.

Cement for Cisterns.-Ground litharge, 5 parts; concentrated glycerine, part; plaster of paris, 4 parts; fine sand, I part; resin, part; mix with boiled linseed oil to consistency of plaster.

Rust Joint Cement for Cast Iron Cisterns.-Cast iron borings, 5 lb.; powdered salammoniac, I oz.; flour of sulphur, 2 oz.; mix with water. If not required for immediate use, a better cement is composed of: cast iron borings, 6 lbs. ; powdered salammoniac, 1 oz.; flour of sulphur, oz.; mix with water.

NOTE. The cubic contents in inches of the joint, divided by 5, will be approximately the weight of dry borings required to make the joint.

Red Lead Cement for Faced Steam Joints.-White lead, 1 part; red lead, 1 part; mix with boiled linseed oil to the consistency of putty.

Cement for Faced Steam Joints to stand Great Heat.-Plumbago, I part; red lead, 1; white lead, 1 part; mix with boiled linseed oil to consistency of putty.

Steam Joints.-Lead wire makes an excellent joint.

Cement for Furnaces.-Fire clay, 1 part; burnt fire clay, I part; mixed with sufficient silica of soda to make it plastic.

Cement for Leather Belts.-Guttapercha, 3; pure white raw indiarubber, 1; dissolved in 8 of bisulphide of carbon.

Cement for Leather Belts.-Another one is :-Guttapercha, 16; pure white raw indiarubber, 4; dissolve; then add pitch, 2; shellac, 1; boiled linseed oil, 2.

Turners' Cement.-Burgundy pitch, 2 lbs. ; resin, 2 lbs.; yellow wax, 2 oz.; melt, and add 2 lbs. of whiting; pour out on a slab and roll into sticks.

Enamel Glaze Cement for Coating Iron Pans.-Flint glass, 130 parts; carb. soda, 2015; boracic acid, 12 parts; dry at a temperature of 100 C.; heat to redness and anneal.

Cement for Fastening Leather on Iron Pulleys.-Soak for 10 hours part crushed nut-galls in 8 parts water; strain, and apply hot to the leather. Pulley to be warmed and coated with glue mixed with a little treacle.

Another cement for same is:-1 part isinglass, 5 parts fish glue, dissolved in 6 parts water; then add gently I part nitric acid.

PAINTS, WOOD STAINS, AND VARNISHES.*

Painting Machinery.-Rough castings spoil the look, and lower the value, of machinery. A nice smooth surface can be cheaply, and efficiently got up, as follows. First chip off all rough projections on the casting, and rub it hard all over with a piece of sandstone; next give it a coat of thin good oil paint. When dry, fill up all rough and hollow places with putty made of white lead, lampblack or dry lead paint, and gold size, which will set hard. Next thin the said mixture down to the consistency of treacle with spirits, and give the casting a coat of it. When dry, rub the casting down to a smooth surface with pumice stone and water, and give it two finishing coats of paint.

I

Tar Paint for Iron Work.-Gas tar, 7 parts; naphtha, 1 part. Paint for Iron Work exposed to Weather.-Red oxide of iron, ground in oil, mixed with equal parts boiled linseed oil and turpentine, with I oz. of patent dryers to the lb.

Paint to prevent Dry Rot.-Wood tar, 1 part; train oil, 1 part; oil of cassia, I part; apply three coats of it.

Paint for Stone.-Browning's solution for protecting the surface of stone consists of 85 per cent. by weight of benzoline; 10 of gum dammar; 2 of sugar of lead; 2 of wax, and per cent. of corrosive sublimate. Apply with a brush, after having cleaned the surface of the stone.

Paint for Wire.-Mix linseed oil with as much litharge as will make it the required thickness; addth part of lampblack. Boil for 3 hours, and apply in thin coats.

Flexible Paint for Canvas.-Yellow soap, 2 lbs.; boiling water, 1 gallons; dissolve and grind the solution while hot with 125 parts oil paint.

Paint for Blackboards.-Finely powdered pumice stone, 4 oz.; powdered rottenstone, 3 oz.; red lead, 1 oz.; lampblack, 8 oz.; glycerine, I oz. ; mix and make into a paste with shellac varnish, and then add 2 quarts shellac varnish; apply 2 coats; stir well.

Anti-oxidation Paint.-Red lead, 8 parts; zinc in powder, 10 parts; dryers, 2 parts; linseed oil, 80 parts. Make only as much as is required for the time, and apply quickly when fresh.

Table 149.-COMPOSITION OF OIL VARNISHES.

The Author is indebted for some of these receipts to "The Engineer," and "The English Mechanic."