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How some successful #ere, how others crost; If you perhaps would try some dish unknown, Then to the sparkling glass would give his toast, which more peculiarly you'd enake your own, Whose bloom did most in his opinion shine,
Like ancient sailors still regard the coast, To relish both the music and the wine.
By venturing out too far you may be lost. Why am I styl'd a cook, if I'm so loth By roasting that which your forefathers boild, To marinate my fish, or season broth,
And boiling what they roasted, much is spoil'd. Or send up what I roast with pleasing froth; That cook to British palates is complete, If I my master's gusto won't discern,
Whose savoury hand gives turns to common meat. But, through my bashful folly, scorn to learn? Though cooks are often men of pregnant wit,
When among friends good-humuurtakes its birth, Through niceness of their subject, few have writ. 'Tis not a redious feast prolongs the mirth;
In what an aukward sound that ballad ran, But 'tis not reason therefore you should spare,
Which with this blustering paragraph began: When, as their future burgess, you prepare
“ There was a prince of Lubberland, For a fat corporation and their mayor.
A potentate of high command,
These brought him kissing-crusts, and those And have excessive doings at their wake:
Brought him small-beer before he rose.” Ev'n ta lors at their yearly feasts look great, The author raises mountains seeming full, And all their cucumbers are turn’d to meat. But all the cry produces little wool: A prince, who in a forest rides astray,
So, if you sue a beggar for a house, And, weary, to some cottage finds the way, And have a verdict, what d' ye gain? A louse! Talks of no pyramids of fowl, or bisks of fish, Homer inore modest, if we search his books, But, hungry, sups his cream serv'd up in earthen will show us that his heroes all were cooks;
How lov'd Patroclus with Achilles joins, Quenches his thirst with ale in nut-brown bowls, To quarter out the ox, and spit the loins. And takes the hasty rasher from the coals: Oh could that poet live ! could he rehearse Pleas'd as king Henry with the miller free, Thy journey, Lister, in immortal verse! Who thought himself as good a man as he.
“ Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go, Unless some sweetness at the bottom lie, That he might taste their soups, and mushrooms Who cares for all the crinkling of the pye?
know !” If you would have me merry with your cheer, Oh, how would Homer praise their dancing dogs, Be so yourself, or so at least appear.
Their stinking cheese, and fricasee of frogs! The things we eat by various juice control He'd raise no fables, sing no flagrant lie, The narrowness or largeness of our soul.
Of boys with custard choak'd at Newberry; Onions will make ev'n heirs or widows weep;
But their whole courses you'd entirely see, The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep;
How all their parts from first to last agree. Eat beef or pye-crust if you'd serious be;
If you all sorts of persons would engage, Your shell-fish raises Venus from the sea;
Suit well your eatables to every age. For Nature, that inclines to ill or good,
The favourite child, that just begins to prattle, Still nourishes our passions by our food.
And throws away his silver bells and rattle, Happy the man that bas each fortune tried, Is very humoursome, and makes great clutter, To whom she much has given, and much denied : Till he has windows on bis bread and butter: With abstinence all delicates he sees,
He for repeated supper-meat will cry, And can regale himself with toast and cheese: But won't tell mammy what he'd have, or why.
Your betters will despise you, if they see The smooth-fac'd youth, that has new guardians Things that are far suppassing your degree;
chose, Therefore beyond your substance nerer treąt; From play-house steps to supper at the Rose, 'Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat.
Where he a main or two at random throws : 'Tis certain that a steward can't afford
Squandering of wealth, impatient of advice, An entertainmeut equal with his lord.
His eating must be little, costly, nice. Old age is frugal; gay youth will abound
Maturer age, to this delight grown strange, With beat, and see the flowing cup go round, Each night frequents his club behind the 'Change, A widow has cold pye; nurse gives you cake;
Expecting there frugality and bealth, From gen rous merchants ham or sturgeon take. And honour rising from a sheriff's wealth: The farmer has brown bread as fresh as day, Unless he some insurance-dinner lacks, Aud butter fragrant as the dew of May.
'Tis very rarely he frequents Pontack's. Cornwall squab-pye, and Devon white-pot brings; But then old age, by still intruding years, And Leicester beans and bacon, food of kings! Torments the feeble heart with anxious fears:
At Christmas-time, be careful of your fame, Morose, perverse in humour, diffident, See the old tenants' table be the same;
The more he still abounds, the less content; Then, if you would send up the brawner's head, His larder and his kitchen too observes, Sweet rosemary and bays around it spread : And now, lest he should want bereafter, starves; His foaming tusks let some large pippin grace, Thinks scorn of all the present age can give, Or midst those thundering spears an orange place; And none these threescore years knew how to live. Sauce like himself, offensive to its foes,
But now the cook must pass through all degrees, . The roguish mustard, dangerous to the nose. And by his art discordant tempers please, Sack and the well-spic'd hippocras the wine, And minister to health and to disease. Wassail the bowl with ancient ribbands fine, Far from the parlour have your kitchen placd, Porridge with plums, and turkeys with the chine. Dainties may in their working be disgrac'd.
lo private draw your poultry, clean your tripe, What these approve the great men will dislike: And from your eels their slimy substance wipe. But here's the art, if you the palate strike; Let cruel offices be done by night,
By management of common things so well, For they who like the thing abhor the sight. That what was thought the meanest shall excel; Next, let discretion moderate your cost,
While others strive in vain, all persons own And, when you treat, three courses be the most. Such dishes could be dress'd by you alone. Let never fresh machines your pastry try,
When straiten'd in your time, and servants few, Unless grandecs or magistrates are by:
You 'll rightly then compose an ambigue : Then you may put a dwarf into a pie.
Where first and second course, and your dessert, Or, if you'd fright an alderman and mayor,
All in one single table have their part.
From such a vast confusion 'tis delight,
Crowd not your table: let your number be Be not too far by old example led,
'Tis the dessert that graces all the feast, The French our relish help, and well supply For an ill end disparages the rest :
The want of things too gross by decency.
And often ask'd for sugar with their meat;
And rumps of beef with virgin-honey strew'd. And let your various creams encircled be Insipid taste, old friend, to them who Paris know, With swelling fruit just ravish'd from the tree. Where rocombole, shallot, and the rank garlic, Let plates and dishes be from China brought,
grow, With lively paint and earth transparent wrought. Tom Bold did first begin the strolling mart, The feast now done, discourses are renew'd, And drove about his turnips in a cart; And witty arguments with mirth pursued. Sometimes his wife the citizens would please, The cheerful master, ʼmidst his jovial friends, And from the same machine sell pecks of pease; His glass “ to their best wishes” recommends. Then pippins did in wheel-barrows abound, The grace-cup follows to his sovereign's health, And oranges in whimsey-boards went round: And to his country, “ plenty, peace, and wealth.” Bess Hoy first found it troublesome to bawl, Performing then the piety of grace,
And therefore plac'd her cherries on a stall; Each man that pleases re-assumes his place; Her currants there and gooseberries were spread, While at his gate, from such abundant store, With the enticing gold of ginger-bread : He showers his god-like blessings on the poor. But flounders, sprats, and cucumbers were cried,
In days of old, our fathers went to war, And every sound and every voice was tried. Expecting sturdy blows and hardy fare:
At last the law this bideous din suppress'd, Their beef they often in their murrions stew'd, And order'd that the Sunday should have rest; And in their basket-hilts their beverage brewd. And that no nymph her noisy food should sell, Some officer perhaps might give consent,
Except it were new milk or mackarel. To a large cover'd pipkin in his tent,
There is no dish but what our cooks hare made, Where every thing that every soldier got, And merited a charter by their trade. Fowl, bacon, cabbage, mutton, and what not, Not French kickshaws, or oglios brought from Was all thrown into bank, and went to pot.
Spain, But, when our conquests were extensive grown, Alone have found improvement from their brain; And through the world our British worth was But pudding, brawn, and white-pots, own'd to be known,
Th’ effects of native ingenuity. Wealth on commanders then flow'd in apace, Our British feet, which now commands the Tbeir champaign sparkled equal with their lace; Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain, (main, Quails, beccoficos, ortolans, were sent
Would they take time; would they with leisure To grace the levee of a general's tent;
(pork; In their gilt plate all delicates were seen,
With care would salt their beef, and cure their And what was earth before became a rich terrene. Would boil their liquor well whene'er they brew,
When the young players once get to Islington, | Their conquest half is to the victualler due. They fondly think that all the world's their own : Because that thrift and abstinence are good, Prentices, parista-clerks, anu Hectors meet; As many things if rightly understood, He that is drunk, or bullied, pays the treat. Old Cross condemns all persons to be fops, Their talk is loose; and o'er the bouncing ale That can't regale themselves with mutton-chops. At constables and justices they rail ;
He often for stuft beef to Bedlam runs, Not thinking custard such a serious thing, And the clean rummer, as the pest-house, shuns. That common-council men 'twill thither bring; Sometimes poor jack and onions are his dish, Where many a man, at variance with his wife, And then he saints those friars who stink of fish, With softening mead and cheese-cake ends the As for myself, I take him to abstain, strife.
[discourse, who has good meat, with decency, though plain : Ev'n squires come there, and, with their mean But, though my edge be not too nicely set, Render the kitchen, which they sit in, worse. Yet I another's appetite may whet; Midwives demure, and chamber-maids most gay, May teach him when to buy, when season 's past, Foremen that pick the box and come to play, What's stale, what choice, what plentiful, what Here find their entertainment at the height,
waste, In cream and codlings revelling with delight. And lead bim through the various maze of taste.
The fundamental principle of all
Ev'n Lamb himself, at the most solemn feast, Is what ingenious cooks the relish call;
Might have some chargers not exactly drest. For, when the market sends in loads of food, Tables should be like pictures to the sight, They all are tasteless till that makes them good. Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light, Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care,
Some at a distance brighten, some near hand, To know for whom it is you would prepare : Where ease may all their delicuce command : You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother, Some should be mov'd when broken; others last A testy father, or a haughty mother;
Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste. Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire, Locket, by many labours feeble grown, Or else some smiles from court you may desire; Up from the kitchen call'd his eldest son : Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give, "Though wise thyself,” says he, “ though taught To show the splendid state in which you live. Pursuant to that interest you propose,
Yet fix this sentence in thy memory:
And yet we say are tolerably well :
Whom they distinguish as of middle size,
For pleading well at bar, or turning books; Tban if you give them with the nicest art But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks, Ragouts of peacocks brains, or filbert-tart. From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs
The French by soups and haut-gouts glory raise, To stall of garter, and to throne of kings. And their desires all terminate in praise.
A simple scene, a disobliging song, The thrifty maxim of the wary Dutch
Which no way to the main design belong, Is, to save all the money they can touch :
Or were they absent never would be miss'd, Hans,” cries the father, “ see a pin lies there; Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss'd : A pin a day will fetch a groat a year.
So in a feast no intermediate fault To your five farthings join three farthings more ; Will be allow'd; but, if not best, 'tis naught.” And they, if added, make your halfpence four!” He that of feeble nerves and joints complains, Thus may your stock by management increase, Prom nine-pins, coits, and from trap-ball, abYourwars shall gain you more than Britain's peace. stains; Where love of wealth and rusty coin prevail, Cudgels avoids, and shuns the wrestling-place, What hopes of sugard cakes or butter'd ale? Lest vinegar resound his loud disgrace.
Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill, But every one to cookery pretends; Or in a prudent mixture show their skill:
Nor maid nor mistress e'er consult their friends. Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few But, sir, if you would roast a pig, be free, Increase the appetite, when choice and new. Why not, with Brawn, with Locket, or with me? Ev'n they, who will extravagance profess, We'll see when 'tis enough, when both eyes out, Have still an inward hatred for excess :
Or if it wants the nice concluding bout : Meat, forc'd too much, untouch'd at table lies, But, if it lies too long, the crackling's pallid, Few care for carving trifles in disguise,
Not by the drugging-box to be recall'd." Or that fantastic dish some call surprise.
Our Cambrian fathers, sparing in their food, When pleasures to the eye and palate meet, First broild their hunted goats on bars of wood. That cook has render'd his great work complete : Sharp hunger was their seasoning, or they took His glory far, like Sur-loin's knighthood, flies; Such salt as issued from the native rock. Immortal made, as Kit-cat by his pies,
Their sallading was never far to seek,
Until the British bards adorn'd this isle,
His British harp, instructing whilst he sung: Still to the destin'd point directly go.
Taught them that honesty they still possess, Perhaps no salt is thrown about the dish,
Their truth, their open heart, their modest dress, Or no fried parsley scatter'd on the fish,
Duty to kindred, constancy to friends, Shall 1 in passion from my dinner fly,
And inward worth, which always recommends; And hopes of pardon to my cook deny,
Contempt of wealth and pleasure, to appear For things which carelessness might oversee, To all mankind with hospitable cheer. And all mankind commit as well as he?
In after-ages, Arthur taught his knights I with compassion once may overlook
At his round table to record their fights, A skewer sent to table by my cook :
Cities eraz'd, encampments forc'd in field, But think not therefore tamely I'll permit
Monsters subdued, and hideous tyrants quell'd, That he should daily the same fault commit, Inspir'd that Cambrian soul which ne'er can yield. For fear the rascal send me up the spit!
Then Guy, the pride of Warwick, truly great, Poor Roger Fowler had a generous mind, To future heroes due example set, Nor would submit to have his hand confin'd, By his capacious cauldron made appear, But aim'd at all; yet never could excel
From whence the spirits rise, and strength of In any thing but stuffing of bis veal : But, when that dish was in perfection seen, The present age, to gallantry inclin'd, And that alone, would it not move your spleen? Is pleas'd with vast improvements of the mind. 'Tis true, in a long work, soft slumbers creep, He, that of honour, wit, and mirth, partakes, And gently sink the artist into sleep.
May be a fit companion o'er beef-steaks ;
His name may be to future times enroll'd Great men have dearly thus companions bought: In Estcourt's books, whose gridiron's fram'd of Unless by these instructions they'll be tanight, gold.
They spread the net, and will themselves be Scorn not these lines, design'd to let you know
caught. Profits that from a well-plac'd table flow.
Were Horace, that great master, now alive, Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks
A feast with wit and judgment he'd contrive. Is lodg’d by Nature, or attain'd by books: As thus:-Supposing that you would rehearse That man will never framc a noble treat,
A labour'd work, and every dish a verse; Whose whole dependence lies in some receipt : He'd say, “Mend this, and t'other line, and this." Then by pure Nature every thing is spoild,
If after trial it were still amiss, She knows no more than stew'd, bak’d, roast, and He'd bid you give it a new turn of face, boil'd.
Or set some dish more curious in its place. When Art and Nature join, th' effect will be If you persist, he would not strive to move Some nice ragout, or charming fricasee.
A passion so delightful as self-love. The lad that would bis genius so advance,
We should submit our treats to critics' view, That on the rope he might securely dance, And every prudent cook should read Bossu, From tender years enures himself to pains, Judgment provides the meat in season fit, To summer's parching heat, and winter's rains, Which by the genius drest, its sauce is wit. And from the fire of wine and love abstains; Good beef for men, pudding for youth and age, No artist can his hautboy's stops command, Come up to the decorum of the stage. Unless some skilful master form his hand :
The critic strikes out all that is not just, But gentry take their cooks though never tried ; And 'tis ev'n so the butler chips his crust. It seems no more to them than up and ride. Poets and pastry-cooks will be the same, Preferments granted thus show him a fool, Since both of them their images must frame. That dreads a parent's check, or rods at school. Chimeras from the poet's fancies flow: Ox-cheek when hot, and wardens bak'd, some The cooķ contrives bis shapes in real dough. cry;
When Truth commands, there's no man can But 'tis with an intention men should buy.
offend, Others abound with such a plenteous store,
That with a modest love corrects his friend, That, if you'll let them treat, they'll ask no Though'tis in toasting bread, or buttering pease,
So the reproof has temper, kindness, ease. And 'tis the vast ambition of their soul,
But why should we reprove when faults are To see their port admir'd, and table full.
small ? But then, amidst that cringing fawning crowd,
Because 'tis better to have none at all. Who talk so very much, and laugh so loud, There's often weight in things that seem the least, Who with such grace his honour's actions praise, And our most triiling follies raise the jest. How well he fences, dances, sings, and plays; 'Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please; Tell him his livery's rich, his chariot's fine, A kitchen will admit of no disease. How choice his meat, and delicate his wine; The fowler and the huntsman both may run Surrounded thus, how should the youth descry Amidst that dirt which he must nicely shun. The happiness of friendship from a lie ?
Empedocles, a sage of old, would raise Friends act with cautious temper when sincere ;
A name immortal by unusual ways; But flattering impudence is void of care:
At last his fancies grew so very odd, So at an Irish funeral appears
He thought by roasting to be made a god. A train of drabs with mercenary tears;
Though fat, he leapt with his unwieldly stuff Who,wringing oft' their hands, with hideous moan, In Etna's flames, so to have fire enough. Know not his naine for whom they seem to groan; Were my cook fat, and I a stander-by, While real grief with silent steps proceeds, I'd rather than himself bis fish should fry. And love unfeign’d with inward passion bleeds. There are some persons so excessive rude, Hard fate of wealth! Were lords as butchers wise, 'That to your private table they'll intrude, They from their meat would banish all the flies! In vain you fly, in vain pretend to fast; The Persian kings, with wine and massy bowl, Turn like a fox, they'll catch you at the last. Search'd to the dark recesses of the soul;
You must, since bars and doors are no defence, That, so laid open, no one might pretend,
Evin quit your house as in a pestilence. Unless a man of worth, to be their friend. Be quick, nay very quick, or he'll approach, But now the guests their patrons undermine; And, as you're scampering, stop you in your And slander them, for giving them their wine.
Then think of all your sins, and you will see, * That is, “ be admitted a member of The Beef How right your guilt and punishment agree: stak Club.”- Richard Estcourt, who was a player Perhaps no tender pity could prevail, and dramatic writer, is celebrated in the Spectator, But you would throw some debtor into gaol. as possessed of a sprightly wit, and an easy and Now mark th' effect of this prevailing curse, natural politeness. His company was much co You are detair’d by something that is worse. Feted by the great, on account of his qualifications Were it in my election, I should choose, as a boon companion. When the famous B: ef- To meet a ravenous wolf or bear got loose. steak Club was first instituted, he had the office of He'll eat and talk, and talking still will eat, providore assigned bim; and, as a inark of distinc- No quarter from the parasite you'll get; tion, used to wear a small gridiron of yold hung But, like a leech well fix'd, he'll suck what's about his neck with a green silk riband. He died
good, in the year 1713. N.
And never part till satisfied with blood.
Nor were emperors less contributors to so great an
undertakin , as Vitellius, Commodus, Didius JuTo Mr.
lianus, and Varius Heliogabalus, whose imperial
names are prefixed to manifold receipts; the last DEAR SIR,
of which emperors had the peculiar glory of first
making sausages of shrimps, crabs, oysters, I must communicate my happiness to you, be- prawns, and lobsters. And these sausages bemg cause you are so much my friend as to rejoice atit. mentioned by the author which the editor pubI some days ago met with an old acquaintance, a lishes, from that and many other arguments the curious person, of whom linquired it he had seen learned doctor irrefragably maintains, that the the book concerning soups and sauces. He told book, as now printed, could not be transcribed till me he had; but that he had but a very slight view after the time of Heliogabalus, who gloried in the of it, the person who was master of it not being titles of Apicius and Vitellius, inore than Antoninus, willing to part with so valuable a rarity out of his who had gained his reputation by a temperate, closet. I desired him to give me what account austere, and solid virtue. And, it seems, under he could of it. He says, that it is a very hand- his administration, a person that found out a new some octavo; for, ever since t'e days of Ogilby, soup might have as great a reward, as Drake or good paper, and good print, and fine cuts, make a Dampier'might expect for finding a new continent. book become ingenious, and brighten up an author | My friend says, the editor tells us of unheard of strangely; that there is a copious index; and at dainties; how“ Æsopus had a supper of the the end a catalogue of all the doctor's works, con- tongues of birds that could speak;" and that "his cerning cockles, English beetles, snails, spiders, daughter regaled on pearls,” though he does not that get up into the air and throw us down cob- tell us how she dressed them; how “ Hortensius webs, a monster vomited up by a baker, and sucio left ten thousand pipes of wine in his cellar, for like; which, if carefully per used, wonld wonder- his heir's drinking;" how “Vedius Pollio fed his fully improve is. There is, it seems, no manu-fish-ponds with mai's flesh ;" and how “ Cæsar seript of it in England, nor any other country that bought six thousand weight of lampreys for his can be heard of; so that this impression is from triumphal supper.” He says, the editor proves one of Humelbergius, who, as my friend says, he equally to a demonstration, by the proportions does not believe contrived it himself, because the and quantities set down, and the nauseousness of things are so very much out of the way, that it is the ingredients, that the dinners of the emperors not probable any learned man would set himself were ordered by their physicians, and that the seriously to work to invent them. He tells me of recipe was taken by the cook, as the collegiate this ingenious remark made by the editor, “That, doctors would do their bills, to a modern apothewhatever manuscripts there might have been, they cary; and that this custom was taken from the inust have been extremely vicious and corrupt, as Egyptians; and that this method continued till being written out by the cooks themselves, or the Goths and Vandals over-ran the western emsome of their friends or servants, who are not al- pires and that they, by use, exercise, and necessity ways the most accurate." And then, as niy friend of abstinence, introduced the eating of cheese and observed, if the cook had used it much, it mightvenison without those additional sauces, which be sullied; the cook, perhaps, not always licking the physicians of old found out to restore the dehis fiugers when he had occasion for it. I should praved appetites of such great men as had lost think it no improvident matter for the state to or their stomachs by an excess of luxury. Out of der a select scrivener to transcribe receipts, lest the ruins of Erasistratus's book of endive, Glaucus ignotant women and housekeepers should impose | Lorrensis of cow-heel, Mithæcus of hot-pot, Dioupon future ages by ill-spelt and uncorrect receipts nysius of sugar-sops, Agis of pickled broom-buds, for potting of lobsters, or pickling of turkeys. Epinetus of sack-posset, Euthedemus of appleCælius Apicius, it seems, passes for the author of dumplings, Hegesippus of black-pudding, Crito of this treatise; whose science, learning, and disci-soused mackarel, Stephanus of lemon-cream, Arphine, were extremely contemned, and almost ab-chites of hoy's-harslet, Acestius of quince-marmahorred, by Seneca and the Stoics, as introducing lade, Hickesius of potted pigeons, Diocles of sweetJuxury, and infecting the manners of the Rumans; breads, and Philistion of oat-cakes and several and so lay neglected till the inferior ages; but other such authors, the great Humelbergius comthen were introduced, as being a help to physic, posed his annotations upon Apicius; whose reto which a learned author, called Donatus, says, ceipts, when part of Tully, Livy, and Tacitus, have that “the kitchen is a handmaid.” I remember been neglected and lost, were preserved in the utin our days, though we cannot in every respet most parts of Transylvania, for the peculiar palate come up to the ancients, that by a very good of the ingenious editor. Latinus Latiius finds author an old gentleman is introduced as making fault with several dishes of Apicius, and is pleased use of three doctors, Dr. Diet, Dr. Quiet, and Dr. to say they are nauseous; but our editor defends Merriman. They are reported to be excellent that great person, by showing the difference of our physicians; and, if kept at a constant pension, customs; how Plutarch says, " the ancientsased their fees will not be very costly.
no pepper," whereas all, or at least five or six bunIt seems, as my friend has learnt, there were dred, of Apicius's delicates were seasoned with it, two persons that bore the name of Apicius, one For we may as weli admire that some West Indians under the republic, the other in the time of Tibe- should ab tain from salt, as that we should be able rius, who is recorded by Pliny, “to have had to bear the bitterness of hops in our common a great deal of wit and judgment in all aflairs that drink : 'and therefore we should not be averse to related to eating,” and consequently has his name rue, cummin, parsley-seed, marsh-mallows, or affixed to many sorts of aumulets and pancakes. nettles, with our common meat; or to have pepper,