this tufa, and formed hills of Roman cement: perhaps nature first suggested this invention to the Romans, and we have learned it from their works. Pieces of pumice-stone were united by this cement, so as to form cliffs and cavernous rocks some hundred feet in height. It seemed to me that there was here every variety of volcanic substance, from the white and light pumice-stone to the metalliferous black basalt. The material of which these sand-hills are composed is precisely the same as that in which the city of Pompeii was buried. What may not here lie beneath its drifts! Many columns and worked stones are rolled into the river which runs at the base of these hills; and there are several caves cut with squared openings, only half-buried by the sand.

Though not a stranger to high mountain-passes, I have never experienced such cutting cold nor so strong a wind as in this pass of the Taurus range; neither I nor any of my men could ride, and we were obliged occasionally to lie down until the gusts had ceased: the very rocks of marble seemed cut by it, for they stood in shivered points, through which the wind hissed fiercely. We passed much snow, and were visited by a storm of small pieces of ice, of broken forms and transparent; this was succeeded by beating rain and snow, as we descended towards the valley of Alaysoón, where in two hours we arrived thoroughly drenched. However, hearing of some ruins within a few miles, I risked the repetition of the storm, and walked about three miles again up the mountain, through a craggy wilderness, into which I feared the peasant took me only to see some tombs cut in the rocks, as the situation appeared too high and dreary for the living of any age. Tombs we did pass, and then climbed up steep hills which were covered with broken tiles, crockery of terra-cotta, lamps, jugs, pieces of glass, etc., but none of sufficient value to be worth picking up. At length I saw many squared stones which had been rolled down the hills,

and above me on all the overhanging rocks were the foundations of walls. What was my surprise to find, on ascending, the extensive remains of a superb city, containing seven or eight temples, and three other long buildings, ornamented with cornices and columns, and with rows of pedestals on either side! I know not what these buildings may have been, but from their forming long avenues I imagine they were agoras.

On the side of a higher hill is one of the most beautiful and perfect theatres I ever saw or heard of; the seats and the greater part of the proscenium remain; the walls of the front have partly fallen, but the splendid cornices and statuary are but little broken. I walked almost round, in the arched lobby, entering as the people did above two thousand years ago. Eight or nine venerable walnut-trees have done some damage, by heaving up the seats. From its peculiar situation I judge that this theatre was entered on one side, where appeared three or four vomitories together. The whole of the city, with its costly tombs and its inscriptions, both cut in the rocks and on the sarcophagi, is ancient Greek, without a vestige of Roman or Christian character. The helmet, shield, and lance, together with masks and lions' heads, varied the ornaments of the richly-worked Corinthian cornice. I observed in the agoras many of the pedestals were six-sided. The whole town was a pile of superb public buildings, arranged in excellent taste, both for seeing and being seen; the ruins are, for so elevated a spot, extensive, and in their mountainous situation are wildly grand. The theatre faced the south. The town has no trace of walls, but its tombs are to be seen carved in the rocks for miles around, with much architectural ornament. This must, I suppose, be the situation assigned to the ancient Sagalassus; it is now called by the Turks Boodroóm.

My guide kept earnestly begging that I would point out

the stones in which he should find gold, thinking that I knew from my books where it was to be met with. The people had spent much time and trouble in cutting pedestals in pieces, imagining from their having inscriptions that they contained treasure. They have in several instances been fortunate, and I saw a split stone which from its form had probably been a kind of altar; into this they had cut, and, concealed in a hollow in the centre, they had found, they said, much gold money. There are in the village below some traces of foundations, and many squared stones and handsome cornices, and several fluted columns lie about the fields.

In the burial-grounds I saw some Christian columns; and a large handsome trough in the town was also of the same date, having two angels carved in the front. A number of Byzantine coins have also been found in the town. How much it is to be regretted that the introduction of a divine religion should have unnecessarily put to flight all the divinity of art! The language of Demetrius of Ephesus was prophetic. In architecture and in sculpture the Cross is a brand always attended by deformity in proportion, and total want of simplicity in ornament.

April 1st. We left the valley of Alaysoón in a snowstorm, which had covered the ground nearly a foot deep; and, after mounting a hill toward the south, descended into another valley, in which no snow had fallen, and where the wheat was six inches high, while in the country through which we had passed it had not even been sown. The mountains were also beginning to be clothed with trees, but no bursting leaves yet bespoke a spring in this still elevated region. Another valley succeeded, and the country became far more picturesque than any that we had passed through for many weeks. The village of Sádecooe lay on our right. I here first saw the common black crows of Europe; also many red ducks, and a white

vulture* with black wing-feathers: my servant shot one of the small black and white birds which we had seen frequently in this mountain region, the white-backed flycatcher.

* Neophron Percnopterus, or Egyptian Vulture.

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CHAPTER VII.

PAMPHYLIA.

ARRIVAL AT BOOJAK.-VISIT TO THE RUINS OF A SPLENDID CITY, PROBABLY SELGE.-BEERMARGY.-DESCENT OF THE TAURUS RANGE.PLAINS OF PAMPHYLIA.-ADALIA.-VISIT TO THE PASHA.-BOTANY.EXCURSION TO ANCIENT CITIES, PROBABLY PERGE, ISIONDA, PEDNELISSUS, SYLLIUM, SIDE, AND ASPENDUS.-RETURN TO ADALIA.— DOMESTIC MANNERS OF A GREEK FAMILY.-DEPARTURE.

AFTER travelling twenty-four miles to the south-east we arrived at the village of Booják. Leaving here my baggage, I started with a guide to visit some extensive ruins, which I heard lay about ten miles toward the north-east. The road was highly picturesque, traversing pine-forests, and ascending the whole way, commanded views of various chains of mountains and their cultivated valleys. After passing a rocky plain we entered a wood or wilderness of shrubs, and suddenly came to a cliff of the greatest perpendicular height that I had ever looked over; no description can give an idea of the place. I was at the end of a ridge of mountains of white marble, which terminate abruptly in a deep and rich valley, with villages, of which Dávre appeared the largest, and having only one side accessible, the other three rising perpendicularly, perhaps a thousand feet.

Upon this promontory stood one of the finest cities that probably ever existed, now presenting magnificent wrecks of grandeur. I rode for at least three miles through a part of