these parts being the whitest and the most easily broken up. The glowing colours in which this town is described in the "Modern Traveller," as quoted from Captain Beaufort's admirable survey, show how essential it is to know upon what standard a description is formed. It would have given Captain Beaufort much pleasure to have gone inland for a few miles, and to have seen theatres and towns in perfect preservation as compared with Side, and of so much finer architecture. From the account which he gives I was led to expect that this would form the climax of the many cities of Asia Minor, but I found its remains among the least interesting. Returning towards Adalia I have varied the road slightly, but the features of the country continue much the same. The author to whom I have just referred speaks of this coast as being flat, sandy, and dreary; my description of a few miles inland would be remarkably the reverse of this, for I never was in a richer, and at the same time more picturesque country, independently of the interest of its remains. The tourist whose observations are made from his yacht,—a common mode of visiting Asia Minor,—can see little. What opinion even of England could be formed from a survey of its coast? What resemblance is there in the bare downs of Brighton to the wooded Warwickshire or the varied beauties of Derbyshire? On reaching the noble river Eurymedon we fell again into the track by which we had come, crossing the bridge we had before passed. The maps are all so extremely incorrect that I am unable to trace my situation upon them. Having sought in vain for a considerable lake in them, which is laid down as extending from this river to the Cestrus, I have no definite clue by which to discover the ruins of Aspendus. Arrowsmith's map places the modern village of Starus upon the site of Aspendus; but no remains of antiquity are to be heard of in the neighbourhood. About five miles nearer to Adalia, having crossed the Cestrus, we travelled for nearly ten miles amidst hewn rocks, sometimes apparently forming tombs, but more frequently being the quarries whence building materials have been obtained. This ground must have been in the vicinity of a large city, but not even a squared stone is to be found. Last evening my tent was pitched at what is called par excellence "the village," originally standing on the bank of a small lake near the river Kaprisoo; but this lake is now a wilderness of reeds and occupied by water-fowl. Here we shot a woodpecker, and saw a beautiful variety of the jay or roller, of which I have kept a specimen; we also put up a jackal. The village consists of houses, five in number, with walls of wickerwork lined in the inside with mud, and with roofs of reeds. On looking around for a chimney, I saw that the moon was shining through the upper part of the walls, the mud lining only extending about three feet from the ground, though the walls were perhaps five in height; the ground was richly carpeted, and luxurious cushions were placed on either side, at least this was the case in the hut owned by the Aga, or principal man, in which I might have claimed a lodging; but I pitched my tent at his door, and made his house my kitchen and servants' hall. Here was the usual assemblage of persons tendering their rural fare. The kymac was somewhat different from that I had before tasted, and was excellent; it had not been allowed time to form a solid scum or crust, but had been broken up and mixed with the sugar of the grape, forming a more agreeable cream than I ever tasted at a London rout. It is impossible for an equestrian traveller to learn more of the entomology of a country than an extremely superficial knowledge of the varieties of species. There were many butterflies already on the wing which are strangers to northern Europe, and some of the transparent-winged kinds. The insect commonly known in English port-towns by the name of cockroach or black beetle, and said to have been brought from the West Indies, is found here, as is also the bug, which has been considered by us to have come from America in the timber. I see on the trees a great variety of the cimex, and one or two kinds of dragon-fly that I do not know in England. Vermin is certainly not so abundant in the houses of the Turks as in most parts of southern Europe; indeed the people are more cleanly than other nations in similar climates. The chameleon and tortoise are frequently seen basking on the rocks. The people in the district of this country south of the Taurus are in the peculiar state of having no settled residence, and their manners take their character from this mode of life. I have not seen a village, or even a mosque except in the city of Adalia,—the people all living in tents; and from this circumstance they are less capable of paying the prompt attention to the rites of hospitality which I have met with elsewhere, although they have the same hospitable disposition. Here the firman has lost its power, and I seldom mention it. The only difficulty however that I have had is in obtaining corn for the horses, which generally have to fare like the cattle of the district and eat grass. I have authority to demand corn, but, living in their tents, the peasants do not require it, and at this season they have none for their own horses. Barley is the only corn grown for the horses in Asia Minor; I have never seen oats in the country. April 12th.—When I returned to my hospitable entertainer at Adalia, his family were all going to their church, but they bade me welcome, and I felt myself at home again. The house gave every proof of the goodness of its inhabitants. In a bakehouse were five large tubs of flour, sufficient to furnish bread for a barrack, in process of being made into loaves, which were, according to the custom at this season (Passion-week), to be given away to the poor, -a practice followed in this house to a great extent. Seeing in one of the numerous store-rooms the large stocks of oranges, lemons, dried fruits, seeds, and corn of various kinds, I was half disposed to think my host kept a bazaar; but these were his provident winter stores still unexhausted. Over my door was an ornament formed of palm leaves, which for this week were placed conspicuously in all Greek houses. Some little children dressed up were acting the portion of the life of our Saviour which is commemorated at this season. The Greek Church still dates by the old style; therefore this, as well as all other festivals, is kept by them twelve days later than the date in our calendar. April 13th.-On returning from a walk of four hours I saw passing my room door ten or twelve visitors, among whom were several priests, and was astonished and afflicted to hear that one of the children of my host, who was well when I left the house, had died in a choking fit, and was actually buried; the persons whom I had noticed were friends come to offer consolation. The family were in such great affliction that I at once ordered my baggage to the boat, and set out on my voyage to Tékrova. SCULPTURE. TOMBS. RUINS OF PATARA.-CITY OF XANTHUS.-INSCRIPTIONS AND CURI- April 13th.-Ir is Friday; on Friday I attempted to leave England, but in vain, owing to a storm; on Friday I had a wretched voyage on the sea of Marmora; on Friday I packed to leave Constantinople, but was obliged to remain; and now on the same day of the week, at six o'clock in the evening, I am sitting in my boat in the harbour of Adalia waiting for the be-u-tee, or local firman, from the Pasha; it was to meet me on the opposite side of the port, about two hundred yards from the place whence I started, but the boatmen say they dare not go further, and my Friday's voyage is at an end. Saturday, April 14th.-The sun having set, the city gates were closed, and I therefore had to sleep in the guard-room. This morning at three o'clock I was fairly afloat. The boat is well built, and has the picturesque latteen |