giving it the proper shape (Fig. 113 e, p. 230). Care is required in the binding to avoid drawing the bandage into a string around the neck of the graft; otherwise, when it swells, the bandage will cut in, and soon the wind will snap it off. At this point let the wrapping be free as possible, and in putting on either the composition or mortar, be sure that no small hole or fissure is left for water to settle into the cleft or other opening in which the graft is inserted. GRAFTING COMPOSITION. No. 1. Equal parts of rosin, beeswax, and tallow, melted together and worked into toughness by kneading and pulling, as molasses, when boiled down, is made into taffy. It may be kept in water, and used without bandages. Being warmed in the hand for use, it is made into small, thin sheets as wanted, and pressed closely over the wounds and around the grafts, so as to exclude air and water, a little grease being used to prevent its sticking to the fingers. No. 2. Two parts rosin, one or one and a half part beeswax, and half or three fourths of a part tallow, melted together as No. 1, and spread with a brush while warm on rag or cheap muslin, which may be cut or torn into strips or patches as wanted for use; or the strips or patches may be soaked in the composition. Or the graft may be bound with dry rag, the loose end being sealed down with a touch of the composition, and the whole covered with a coat laid on warm with a brush, the composition being kept melted over a furnace or pot of embers. No. 3. Two parts pitch, two parts rosin, one part beeswax, one part tallow, and one part turpentine, melted together and boiled for half an hour. This is, on the whole, superior to the former, and may be used as that, either spread on the rag before wrapping, or laid on with a brush after the graft has been bound, being kept melted for this purpose. GRAFTING MORTAR. What is called grafting mortar is made either by mixing strong loam or clay with an indefinite proportion of horse-dung or cut straw, or both, working it up to the consistence of mortar thoroughly and repeatedly to toughen it. When required for use, it should be a little stiffer than potter's clay. Instead of the above, equal parts of strong loam and cow-dung may be used, to be prepared and applied in the same manner. AFTER-TREATMENT. Newly-set grafts should be watched throughout the season, to stop and restop any holes or cracks which the heat of summer or the swelling growth may occasion in the coating which defends them, and to slacken the bandages by cutting them through at the back of the stock whenever there is danger of their cutting into the stock or graft. The growth of the graft should also be observed, and a proper form and direction given to it by nipping or tying up, as may be found necessary. In addition to these precautions, young stocks budded or grafted should be kept carefully clear of natural or stock shoots, all of which must be removed as soon as they appear. The hand, defended by a stout glove, may be rubbed harshly around or down the stock while they are yet quite tender, and it is done. But larger and older trees require different treatment. Only a part of the limbs of a large tree should be grafted at one time, so that there may be a sufficient supply of leaves produced to effect a healthful circulation in the tree; and, for the same reason, much of the young growth may be suffered to remain upon the limbs that are grafted, to keep those parts in vigor. If these precautions are neglected, the full grafting of a large tree will generally kill it, or portions of it. But, on the other hand, the moment it is seen that the grafts have taken, care must be given that no strong, gluttonous shoots are put forth near them, but all such as seem likely to become stronger than the graft growth should be nipped from time to time, to check them and strengthen it. In succeeding years, the remaining limbs may be grafted, and the needless branches and sprouts cut away in the course of winter pruning, having regard always to the necessities of the system of circulation in the individual tree. a. Orchard tree, with stem seven to nine feet high. c. A dwarf tree, trimmed into conical form. d. A dwarf tree, conical, but formed with drooping habit. In rearing the young tree from the bud or graft, we usually determine the height of its stem when ready for bearing. It L is therefore plain that we may take our choice of low or high trees, tall or short stems. The general practice has been to set out trees with tall stems, or trim them up tall afterward, Fig. 118 a. This perhaps may have arisen from the too prevalent habit of suffering cattle to run in our young orchards, which is as outrageous as it would be to stable them in our parlors. It is difficult to change habits, even after the reason for their formation has passed away; but it is clear that orchard trees with short stems, say four or five feet high, are, on many accounts, more desirable than tall ones. (See Fig. 118 b.) They are much more readily pruned, the fruit is more easily gathered, and thus much labor saved. A certain farmer, scarcely yet in middle life, has an orchard of sixty russeting apples, grafted and planted by himself when a boy, which yielded in 1856 some six hundred barrels of fruit, half of which could be gathered without bench or ladder by a man of ordinary height standing upon the ground. Fruit is not so readily blown off from low trees as high ones, and when it falls is less injured for use or market. The main stem of a short tree is also less exposed to injury from the sun and from late spring frost, the latter sometimes bursting the vessels in which the heat of the former has caused the circulation to start. Insects do not so readily select a tree partially shaded as a place of deposit for their eggs, instinct telling them that they need the sun to hatch them. Shorter stems for orchard trees, and higher fences for orchards, will be found decided improvements. 66 Very low-stemmed trees, or " dwarfs," are sometimes pruned into a pyramidal, or, rather, conical shape, by suffering all the young side shoots to grow, and nipping their extremities, shortening also the main shoot or leader, Fig. 118 c; or, with the same general form, a drooping habit is given to the young tree by tying downward the points of the young branches, Fig. 118 d; and these and other fancies may be pursued to any extent. CHAPTER XVII. Setting out Trees, preparing Holes, &c.—Tables of Arrangement of Distances, Area, &c.-After-culture.-Combination of Fruits. SETTING OUT. FOR all kinds of trees that are perfectly hardy, early fall planting is to be preferred. If the earth is sufficiently moist to allow of their being well taken up, they should be removed as soon as the circulation is checked, or say when the first frost causes a fall of the leaves. Trees that are liable to injury from the winter, as peach, and, in some places, cherry, should, in such localities, be set out only in the spring. In choosing trees for setting out, those of moderate or even small size are generally to be preferred. Large trees suffer more by removal, and require more prompt and abundant supplies to start them again vigorously. They are also more difficult and expensive to transport; yet, if not removed far, and the directions for planting, given page 245, are observed, they may be very successfully transplanted, and, if well cared for by being staked and mulched, and, if need be, manured after setting out, will come quickly into bearing. In general, however, fruit-trees should be set out where they are expected to remain in the second or third year from the graft or bud, except peach-trees, which, being commonly budded in the fall of their first year's growth from the seed, may be advantageously set out in the spring of their second year, before the bud sprouts, and, being properly headed down, the bud will make a strong growth before fall, and be benefited by remaining undisturbed from the start. If preferred, however, the common mode may be followed, which is to allow the bud to make a year's growth before the setting out. The resetting of trees in their previous relative positions as to their north and south sides was formerly deemed of importance, but is of no practical consequence. In general, the depth at which they are set should be about |