under the most improved system that can be expected, it will exceed that of 1825, or the object in view will be in a great measure sacrificed. It is true that temporary reductions may be made, by suspending public works, by the diminution of salaries, and by the abolition of appointments; but it is extremely doubtful whether such a course of proceeding be consistent with true economy: the questionable nature of such retrenchments is unequivocally evinced in the suspension of those buildings, which are essential to the health and comfort of individuals whose duties necessarily confine them to a fixed residence; such as the houses for Superintendants at the different villages: some of these, it is true, had been commenced on a scale of unnecessary magnitude; but, after considerable progress had been made in works, in their nature essential, economy might best have been promoted by their completion. It is also to be remembered, that, in order to render the expenditure more extensively productive of good, the Colonial Appointments should be filled by competent and respectable individuals: as the facility of procuring such persons must be in proportion to the desirableness of the situations, and as there is little inducement but the prospect of emolument, a liberal regard should be had in graduating the scale of remuneration, not only to the relative value at which their qualifications might be estimated in Europe, but to the risk incurred by change of country and climate. Instead, therefore, of curtailing salaries, and reducing establishments with too severe a hand, it appears to us, that the principles of Economy would be best consulted, and the objects of the Government most effectually attained, by establishing a due responsibility and controul in the several departments by which disbursements are made, and by a more frequent and rigorous audit of the accounts. Arrangements of this kind are so requisite, that they should be made, even though it were found necessary for the purpose to increase the number of the civil servants.

Mediterranean.

CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, VISIT OF REV. JOHN HARTLEY TO SIX OF THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES.

(With a Map.)

taken from Arrowsmith: it marks very clearly the relative situation of the Seven Apocalyptic Churches; but does not extend far enough to the eastward to embrace the whole of Mr. Hartley's route, as he visited several places beyond the Salt Lake: it will, however, enable the Reader to trace the greater part of his Journey.

A brief account of the Seven Churches, by the Rev. H. Lindsay, British Chaplain at Constantinople, was given at pp. 104, 105 of our Volume for 1816. At pp. 423-429 of the Volume for 1821, will be found the visit of the late Messrs. Parsons and Fisk to Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, and Philadelphia; and, at pp. 166, 167 of that for 1822, the visit of Mr. Fisk to Ephesus.

In the Journey here narrated, Mr. Hartley accompanied the Rev. Mr. Arundell, Chaplain at Smyrna : they visited all the Apocalyptic Churches except Thyatira.

Preliminary Remarks.

A Missionary, in visiting the Christian Communities of the Mediterranean, finding the doctrines of Christianity either little understood by those who hold them, or greatly neglected or distorted, will feel it an unquestionable duty to illuminate as many persons as possible, with the primitive light of the Gospel; and to teach them to discriminate between its genuine doctrines and the false and injurious additions of men. This I have felt to be my principal object during my sojourn in these countries; and I would testify, with gratitude to God, that, in every chief place which I have yet visited, I have found abundant opportunity of imparting such knowledge: not a few persons have been led to disclaim those errors in which

they have been educated, and to join me in religious worship: of some I even venture to hope, that it has pleased God to accompany the acquisition of knowledge with a considerable change in their moral character; and it is my earnest prayer that they may prove themselves true followers of Christ, by sincere devotedness of heart and by exemplary sanctity of life. When I am engaged, therefore, with only a few individuals, in reading the Scriptures, in explaining and enforcing their meaning, and in united prayer, I feel myself to be employed in my chief Missionary Duty, and it is my hope to spend much of my life in this manner.

Having arrived in Smyrna at Christmas 1825, I was engaged till the end of March, partly in duties of this nature, and partly in

In April, I undertook the Journey of which the following pages contain a narrative, with the view of obtaining information on the religious state of these countries, and of promoting the dissemination of the Scriptures and other Books by engaging the co-operation of Natives in this duty; not without hopes of effecting some good, by conversation with individuals and the distribution of such books as I could take with me.

Smyrna.

On

The Church of Smyrna is represented (Rev. ii. 8-11) as contending with most severe sufferings-poverty, slander, and persecution: but Modern Smyrna is a far greater sufferer. The former things have passed away: the faithful Smyrnæans have long since fought their battle and won their crown; but now the evils are of a different orderapostacy, idolatry, superstition, infidelity, and their tremendous consequences. whatever side we look, we meet only with what is calculated to excite painful feelings. The religion now predominant was unknown in the days when Polycarp was martyred; and, unlike the Paganism of Rome which disappeared and fell before Christianity, still maintains its seat, and lords it over those countries where the Redeemer suffered and where His Gospel was first proclaimed. Rome is the only place of importance mentioned in the Scriptures which has not been for centuries under the Mahomedan Yoke.

The population of Smyrna has been estimated at 100,000, and even more: the practice, however, of exaggerating the population, which is so general in this country, has extended, I conceive, to this enumeration.

do not think that Smyrna contains many more than 75,000 inhabitants. Perhaps there may be 45,000 Turks, 15,000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, 8000 Jews, and less than 1000 Europeans. The Mosques are more than 20. The Greeks have three Churches; the Armenians, one; the Latins, two; the Protestants, two. The Jews have several Synagogues.

Mr. Jowett has given us an interesting account of the Greeks in these parts, in his "Christian Researches in the Mediterranean:" I regret to say, that, at present, a cloud has darkened that pleasing picture. The Universities of Scio and Haivali, which promised to be the cradle of Grecian Learning and Religion, have been destroyed; and a check has been given to Education, which there are but slender hopes to see repaired. Smyrna has participated in the general miseries of Greece: no longer do we find Economus giving instruction to his young countrymen; and in vain do we look for any institution which is calculated to assist the studies of the rising population. I am happy, however, to remark that the "Evangelical School" still exists; an institution, which owes its perpetuity to English Protection, and which, if it be not calculated to lead the pupil into the field of extensive knowledge, prevents him at least from being sunk in utter ignorance : I had the pleasure of frequent intercourse with the Master of this School, and found him one of the most liberal Ecclesiastics June, 1827.

whom I have met with in the Eastern Communion the number of his pupils is about 150; but they are all very young, and their education is little more than elementary. In addition to this establishment, the Greek Youths of Smyrna have no other means of acquiring knowledge, than what is furnished by very inferior Day Schools and by private instruction.

During a residence of more than four months in Smyrna, I enjoyed continual opportunities of imparting religious instruction. My excellent friend Mr. King found occasions of usefulness still more extensive; and I am persuaded that the divine blessing has attended his exertions. We both are fully convinced of the importance of a stationary Missionary being appointed to this place: unless, indeed, the occasional endeavours of Missionary Visits should be followed up by permanent exertion, there is every reason to fear that the seed which has been sown will not bear fruit to perfection. May it please God very speedily to bestow on the Church of Smyrna a faithful Protestant Minister, who may deem it his delight and his honour to emulate the example of Polycarp on the very ground on which that revered Martyr lived and died!

Smyrna will ever be to the Christian a most interesting spot. The conflict which was maintained here, was one of no common description: it was not only Polycarp himself, who was the gainer by his sufferings: on the firmness of the Christian Matryrs depended, under Divine Providence, the

transmission of the Truth to the latest generations had they yielded to the fury of their foes and denied the Lord who bought them, we should have been still immersed in the ignorance of our forefathers-without God and without hope in the world. We do well, then, to cherish the memory of these faithful servants of God: it is just for us to bless the Most High for His grace bestowed upon them. I must confess that I tread the ground, which has been signalized by the death of a Christian Martyr, with unspeakably more delight than I should visit the Plain of Marathon. was a conflict, not for the liberty which is merely co-existent with the span of human life, but for a freedom which is eternal! Here -without arms, without allies-the world and its god were vanguished! Here was honour won-not that empty bubble which fallen man admires, but that exceeding and eternal weight of glory, which God has prepared for His faithful servants.

From Smyrna to Ephesus.

Here

March 28, 1826-We entered on our journey this afternoon. I am favoured with a companion in the Rev. Mr. Arundell, British Chaplain at Smyrna, and Rector of Landolph in Cornwall: the rest of our party consists of Mehmet, a Janissary of the English Consulate; Mileon, an Armenian, the Syrogee, or, in other words, the man who provides and takes charge of the horses; Mustapha, a Turk, who gives help to Mileon; and Nicolas, a native of Thessaly, my own servant.

The immediate environs of Smyrna are interesting from the thick groves of cypress, 2 P

which adorn, with pensive beauty, the Turkish Burial-grounds. Christians might learn an advantageous lesson from the attention of the Turks to their places of interment: I know of no Church-yards, in England, which will bear a comparison with the cemeteries of Smyrna.

Close to Smyrna, we were gratified with the improvements of Suleyman Aga; but, afterwards, observed nothing which merits attention after a ride of little more than two hours, we arrived at Sedikeny, and spent the night at the country-house of Mr. Arundell. In this village there are three summer retirements, possessed by opulent European Families, resident in Smyrna: a Missionary would find it an excellent retreat during the heat of summer; and would here, not only be able to obtain that retirement for devotional exercises which is so important to a Christian, but would find abundant opportunity of usefulness by his intercourse with the Greeks of the village. The number of Greek houses is estimated at 300: the Turks have 40, with one Mosque.

March 29, 1826-We have had a most perilous journey to-day. On leaving Sedikeny, the clouds threatened rain; but transient gleams of sunshine emboldened us to proceed. We had not advanced far before the rain overtook us, nor could we for several hours find any other shelter except what was afforded amidst the ruins of Ololazzi: this was, a few years ago, a flourishing Greek Village; but, since the revolution, a party of Turks passing that way utterly destroyed it: the very trees have not escaped the fire. After leaving it, the rain descended upon us with more fury than ever. During the former part of the day we passed some moderate elevations; but afterwards we entered on one of those immense plains, for which Asia Minor is celebrated. Our first essay on this extensive level was of an appalling description for full a quarter of a mile, we had to contend with a terrible morass: perceiving, however, the Janissary pushing on manfully, I followed him; and, at length, after continual sinking and plunging, we emerged upon firmer ground.

About two o'clock, we arrived at a miserable hovel, in which we were glad to obtain shelter and spend the remainder of the day and the whole of the night. The owner is a poor black: he informs us that his hut is called "The Arab's Coffee-house." Here we are surrounded by smoking Turks: the rain penetrates through the roof, while we have to spread our mattresses on a dirty floor; and, what is most shocking to European delicacy, we are excessively annoyed by the vermin, always met with in such situations: yet we find great cause to praise God for His mercies.

March 30-This morning, we had a ride over the plain, rendered more agreeable by the contrast of yesterday's difficulties. We left a small village to the left, which has received the name of Fregata, from some fancied resemblance which it bears to the hull of a frigate. On the right, we saw, shortly afterward, the remains of the ancient metro

polis: near them is the village of Tourbali. The scenery here is exceedingly beautiful: on the right is Mount Gallesus, clothed in many parts with beautiful forests, and in some places exhibiting stupendous precipices; and the plain through which you travel has been called by Van Egmont "one of the most delicious in the world:" on the other side, is the Pagasean Lake of antiquity: even at this season, we saw a considerable sheet of water in that direction, and in winter the greater part of the plain is inundated. We passed through a beautiful defile, having lofty mountains on both sides, and the river Caister flowing through the valley.

Ephesus.

We reached Aiasaluck about half-after one o'clock. It was with feelings of no common interest, that my eye caught, from a distance, the aqueduct of the castle; and, with still greater delight, that I afterward proceeded to examine the ruins. There can be little doubt that the suburbs of Ephesus extended to Aiasaluck; but the principal ruins of that celebrated city are at present a mile distant. At this place we see chiefly the ruins of the Mahomedan Town, which flourished for a time after the destruction of the other; and had been erected, in a great measure, by the spoils which it furnished. Innumerable are the inscriptions which are either lying about in disorder or neglect; or which are built into the aqueduct and the Turkish structures.

No ruin here struck me so much as the large Mosque, which some travellers have ventured to suppose the Church of St. John. The front of the building is reckoned one of the finest specimens of Saracenic Architecture; and, in the interior, are some stupendous columns, which there is no reason to doubt, once graced the celebrated Temple of Diana.

I cannot describe the feelings which came over my mind an viewing the Mosque, the Castle, and the multitude of Ruins which are strewed on every side. What a scene of desolation! With the utmost truth and feeling has it been observed by a celebrated traveller

"It is a solemn and most forlorn spot! And, at night, when the mournful cry of the jackal is heard on the mountain, and the night-hawk, and the shrill owl named from its note cucuvaia,' are flitting around the ruins, the scene awakens the deepest sensations of melancholy." I was also much struck to observe, how the stork appears at present to claim possession of these ancient edifices: you see this bird perching, in all directions, upon the summits of the buildings, or hovering round them in the air, or fixing its immense nest, like the capital of a column, on the large masses of ruins. As for the stork, the ruins of Ephesus are her house. There is a great peculiarity in the note of this bird: it reminds the hearer of the sound of a watchman's rattle.

A large archway leading to the castle is generally called the Gate of Persecution; from the supposition that the sculpture attached to it represents the sufferings of the primitive Christians: it is however believed, with more reason, that nothing else is signi