IV.

Woronetz, but even to the most eastern part CHAP. of Siberia, were they not separated from them by an abutment of the range of the Carpathian mountains, which divides them from the Campo Longo of Russia and Moldavia.-We met some aravans laden with Hungarian tobacco. At Inares there was a neat and good inn, where we dined. Thence proceeding through the villages of Ocsa and Soroksar, we had no sooner quitted the last than we beheld the spires of PEST, and the citadel of BUDA, situate upon different sides of the Danube, at the foot of a chain of mountains, which rise with grandeur upon the western side of the river. The Danube separates the two cities, in other respects one. BUDA is upon an eminence above the western, and PEST below upon the eastern bank. PEST is a very large and handsome PEST. city. We were conducted to its principal inn, called The Seven Electors. The streets are full of shops; and there are two theatres: there is also a handsome theatre at BUDA. We were quite surprised by the magnificence of these two cities, of which so little is known in other parts of Europe. PEST, situate in a plain, is adorned with public edifices, erected in a style of grandeur and elegance: it also boasts of a University; although as little heeded

CHAP. by the Universities of ENGLAND, as Cambridge

IV.

Pesthiensis.

and Oxford are by its Hungarian Professors. All its buildings are constructed of a porous lumachella, brought from the quarries of Bude upon the other side of the Danube: its for is quadrangular; and it gives its name to a the neighbouring country, which is hence deComitatus nominated Comitatus Pesthiensis; the whole of Hungary being divided, like Great Britain, into counties. Between the two cities, PEST and BUDA, there is an immense bridge of boats, three-quarters of a mile in length. During the wars with Turkey, this place suffered much, being often taken and retaken: it is entirely commanded by the citadel of BUDA, so that every part of it was exposed to the cannon from the opposite heights. As soon as we arrived, we hired a lackey, and sent him to engage a box at the theatre; whither we afterwards repaired, to see the comedy of "Peter the Great and his favourite Mentchikof.” The theatre was dark and small; and the piece so dull, and ill performed, that we did not remain until its conclusion.

May 10. This day the Turkish Ambassador arrived, at another inn, called The White Boat. As soon as we had breakfasted, we waited

.IV

upon the Governor of PEST (Baron Leeuwen), CHAP. and afterwards upon the Governor of BUDA (General Orft), requesting a passport, and permission to visit the Mines of Schemnitz and Cremnitz. We were assured that we might go to any of the Hungarian mines, without any other passport than that which we had brought from Constantinople. At Buda we heard that the BUDA. Diet would soon be assembled at Presburg, and that the Prince of the Palatinate was there. We Palace. were permitted to see the palace belonging to his Highness, as it was furnished by the present Emperor of Russia, after the marriage of the Prince with his sister. It was really magnificent: indeed there are few finer palaces in Europe; and the furniture bespoke the wealth and pomp of the sovereign by whom it was presented. Among other articles, there was a table of very great size, which consisted entirely of massive silver, embossed, and ornamented with sculpture: the other tables were each of one entire mass of coloured glass. We saw also a superb collection of the most costly minerals of Siberia'. The ball-room was of immense magnitude; and many of the other

(1) Among these may be mentioned a superb crystal of Wolfram (the ferruginal Scheelin of Hauy and of Brognurt), in its matrix; also a ruby of the size of a hazel-nut; and many of the gold ores of Siberia, VOL. VIII.

Ꮓ

IV.

CHAP. apartments were adorned with the richest tapestry of Petersburg, copied after paintings by some of the best masters. The view from a balcony of the palace, elevated upon a rock above the Danube, exhibited one of the most striking sights we ever saw, owing to the peculiar nature and grandeur of the objects presented to the eye: it consisted of an extensive prospect of the Danube, diversified by islets covered with trees, the long bridge of boats, and the whole city of PEST, with all the campaign country intervening between this river and the Tibiscus, the gardens of the palace, and the suburbs, backed by lofty mountains which surround the city. BUDA is well built, and more magnificent in its appearance than PEST; but both together, added to the advantages of their situation upon the Danube, their numerous gardens and diversified appearance, make this a delightful place of residence. Before the invasion of Hungary by the Turks, BUDA was the capital of the country. Some writers have believed that it was either the CURTA of Ptolemy, or the AQUINCUM of the Itinerary of Antoninus';

"Elle

(1) Royaume de la Hongrie, chap. 7. p. 45. Cologne, 1686. estoit appellée AQUINCUM dans les temps de l'ancienne Pannonie, et selon d'autres CURTA OU SOLVA." Voy. Hist. de Royaume de Hongrie, liv. iii. p. 151. Paris, 1688.

but, according to Bonfinius, the antient name of Buda was SICAMBRIA'; and it was called Buda, from Bleda, the brother of Attila, who had received that appellation'. Several Roman antiquities remain in different parts of the town'.

By

CHAP.

IV.

the Germans, Budu is called Offen, or, as we should say, Oven; owing to its natural sudatories, or hot kilns". It is divided into two parts, Upper and Lower. They still shew the remains of structures built here by Matthias' Corvinus, king of Hungary, and by his predecessors. This city was taken by Sultan History of Solyman, August 20, 1526; and recaptured by Ferdinand the First, king of Bohemia, brother' of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, in the following year. In 1529, by the treason of the garrison, it fell again into the hands of Solyman,

Buda.

(2) "Quinetiam Budam fratrem, cuì gubernationem Scythiæ, ædificandumque urbem in Danubii ripâ, Sicambriæque ruinis, Budam deinde dictam delegaret, dolo captum interfecit." Vide Ant. Bonfinium, Rer. Vngar. Decadis I. lib. iii. p.53. edit. Sambuci. Francof. 1581.

(3) " Bledámque, fratrem, quem plerique Budam appellant," &c. Ibid. p. 52.

(4) Townson found here many Roman inscriptions, none of which were seen by us by some one of these, the antient name of this place might be determined. Townson also mentions a Roman SUDARIUM. See Travels in Hungary, chap. 4.

(5) Nunc a furnis calcis, quæ olim ex lapidibus illic coquebatur, Offen vocant." Atila, Nicholai Olahi, cap. 12. p. 880. Francof. 1581.