We were now presented with the first view of the beautiful scenery of Dovedale. As we stood on the margin of the lovely stream, Thorp Cloud was exhibited in its most imposing attitude,-lofty and remarkably steep, and apparently terminating in a cone or circular point, forming with Bunster hill (its opposite) the massive portals of the Dale. Here the beauty of the stream is much enhanced by presenting a series of rough stony embankments, which divide it into numberless cascades of surpassing loveliness. The verdant meadow fringing its margin, and spreading on either hand till they reach the steep and sterile mountain side. The Dale here attaining its greatest width, and bounded by lofty mountains, the view, closed in the distance, by a bold projecting headland, covered with blooming gorse bushes and underwood. The winding footpath lay over this.* On attaining the summit of the eminence the Dale assumed another and far different character, wild and magnificent in the extreme; every vestige of those changes effected by man being totally excluded, as if this bold and rocky promontory set him at defiance, as well it may, for the obstacles here, to his reforming propensities, are of no ordinary magnitude. The boldest part of the headland overhanging the river is jagged and broken, crumbling to pieces by the perpetual action of the elements; but ye it presents on the top a broad space covered with the finest verdure, and affording nourishment to the luxuriant hawthorn, crab tree, and ash, which grow profusely, and furnish an ample shade in the noon-day sun, for the visitor to enjoy his sandwich, whilst he can, at the same time, overlook and delight in (if he loves such scenery) the wild and splendid prospect, laid out like a lovely picture before him.† Rock piled upon rock, and mantled

* The sugar loaves are just opposite this point.

The Dean of Clogher (Mr. Langton) now laid in his lonely tomb in Ashborne Church, is said to have met with an untimely death from this point. After regaling himself with his party, he foolishly resolved to ascend the hill with his own horse, (which he had brought thus far) and in that buoyant gaiety and fearlessness of spirit wbich characterize some young people, a Miss La Roche determined to accompany him on his perilous excursion. But they had not proceeded a great way when the ascent, which

with the creeping ivy, finely contrasting with their grey pinnacles. The descent from hence leads through thick and overhanging brushwood and stunted trees.

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black marble measures emerging on this side, their basset edges forming a series of steps by which the descent is, in some measure, facilitated. On reaching the meadow, where the Dale expands considerably, we find on the right a number of bold rocks ridging the mountain side, jagged and broken for the most part, and clothed fantastically and beautifully with ivy and creeping plants, the clefts between them filled with the hazel and dwarf ash, and abundance of indigenous plants, which give a beauty and deep interest to this colossal group, called "Tissington Spires," or the "Twelve Apostles." Beyond these, on the same side, the Dale is finely curved and craggy. The base covered with patches of the broken fragments of limestone or shingle, added too, year after year, by the decay of the crag, dreary and sterile indeed, and strangely contrasting with the blooming meadow,the limpid stream, and the sweet flower of the wild geranium protruding its delicate form through these angular and rude heaps, planted and reared, as the guide would have it, by some fairy hand.+ On our left we found that magnificent grouping of rocks, styled, from some fancied resemblance, "Dovedale Church."-The foliage

at first seemed easy, became steep and difficult in the extreme; and the poor horse, unaccustomed to such ground, and overbalanced by the weight, lost his footing and rolled down the steep. The young lady was caught by her long tresses in the brushwood, and escaped with some slight bruises; the horse also wonderfully escaped after rolling to the bottom in the most fearful manner;-but the Dean was so mangled in the fall, that he died in a few days and was buried as stated. This incident is noticed (as it ought to be) by most writers on the Dale, and ought to be a warning to all those who are fearless and fool-hardy. Some say the Dean ascended from Reynard's Cave, higher up the Dale; but the guide who accompanied us affirms that he proceeded from this headland, which I think much more likely.

These may easily be distinguished by their smoothness and dark appearance. An old hut is here passed almost entirely built of the black marble. The entrochi which overlies these measures, is discovered on ascending the opposite side of the hill.

It is strange what a hold the superstitions of by-gone days still have on the minds of our peasantry in some districts.

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around their base and from amongst their clefts is most luxuriant, adding grace and beauty to their majestic forms. The scenery here is so bold, beautiful and impressive that few lovers of the pencil could leave the Dale (if time permitted) without transferring its shadowy resemblance to his sketch-book.--Proceeding onward, the Dale becomes narrow and gloomy till nearing Reynard's Cave, where the hills again recede. In front, of the Cave, which was considerably elevated on our left, rises a vast mass of limestone traversing the mountain side obliquely, and presenting about the centre a finely formed archway of no common dimensions,-through which the jagged mouth of the Cave above is seen. The arch is about 40 feet high and 20 wide, and may have been formed partly and chiefly by volcanic agency-and subsequently enlarged and rounded off by the erosion of ages. It is perhaps nothing more than a portion of a vein, of which the Cave is a part and which traverses the hilly range to the eastward. This bold mass has withstood the vio lent action of those forces which scooped out and formed the Dale. The ascent to the Cave is exceedingly difficult, and great care should be taken, especially above the arch, where the mould is loose and friable, giving way beneath the tread. But the view from hence will amply repay the toil and trouble.-To the right, the Dale assumes its wildest character; becoming a gloomy and cheerless glen; shut in by huge perpendicular rocks, overhung with the brushwood-the river fretting and foaming over the rocky bed and struggling to free itself from the dark recess.-The Cave is not spacious, but remarkably uneven and fretted, the roof circular and giving full effect to the voice, which we failed not to try by attempting the chorus in the Messiah.-The effect was magnificent and thrilling-surrounded with such objects as exhibit in legible characters the majesty of God. Would that the heart were always attuned to such noble and elevating conceptions; then would nature minister to the mind pleasures of the highest order, pure as the mountain rill, and lofty as that azure vault which then sweetly canopied the Dale--for it was a day

of great beauty-after resting awhile, under the full influence of those feelings elicited by our employment, we next visited the adjoining Cave called Reynard's Kitchen, -and then made our way carefully down the fearful steep to explore the remaining part towards the northern entrance.*

On our descent to the narrow gorge, our ears were saluted by the shrill whistle of the mountain Shepherd driving his flock, and the sharp bark of his dog, whom we presently descried on the towering heights above. His appearance at such a time produced sensations of no common nature and in wonderful harmony with the sublime scenery of this most magnificent portion. The path now became more uneven and rugged, and led immediately under the lofty cliff, one bold angle overhanging the stream obliged us to advance close upon it, and carefully to pick our way over the broken fragments toppled from the cliff and forming part of the bed of the river, to prevent getting wet. We now emerged through a fine rocky portal into an open space where the hills lose in a great measure their bold character, swelling into more gentle eminences, and the river assuming the appearance of a smooth stream. But the view down the dale is remarkably grand. No description can convey an adequate conception of it to the mind, and no sketch, that the author has ever seen, does it justice, all of them being either too exaggerated or grossly incorrect in the details. The left is bounded by a rock for the most part detached from the mountain, of magnificent dimensions, rising boldly from the very bed of the river which sweeps rapidly past its base. It is slightly curved on the face so that the higher part inclines considerably forward. The right is occupied by a jagged cliff presenting four or five detached pinnacles starting boldly from its face mantled with ivy and shrubs. At the extreme point the cliff is perpendicular

* It is said this Cave received its name from a robber called Reynard, who used to frequent it. Parties frequently make this their resting point, and take luncheon, and sometimes boil the kettle for tea filled from the pure stream, and heated by a fire made of the dry brushwood.

and more bold, presenting on the summit an immense square mass (called the Watch Box,) apparently so poised on its very edge as if the least touch, or the next tempest which swept down the Dale would topple it from its lofty position into the bed of the river. entire view here is of the wildest description.

The

A little beyond this point where the valley takes a sudden turn, eastward, are the Dove holes, two large openings in the rock, of some interest, but the tourist is generally contented after having toiled his weary way thus far, and is anxious to retrace his steps to his carriage or Ilam Inn. Some parties enter the Dale here, coming from the Buxton road, which is not above one mile and a half from hence, and may be reached by taking up the ravine beyond the Dove holes by passing over some two or three fields at the top near to a farmhouse called Hanson Grange.

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Gilpin, in his Northern Tour, observes, "that Dovedale is one of the most pleasing pieces of scenery anywhere to be met with."-And Mr. Jewitt, in his history of Buxton, states that it is not in the power of language to do it justice"-and to the artist and the lovers of rocky scenery" "it affords a treat of the richest kind;" "but to the botanist it is almost inestimable, for there is scarcely a plant indigenous in Britain which may not be found in its luxuriant bosom, or on some of the neighbouring hills."—Mr. Rhodes, (author of the "Peak Scenery," has also employed his powers with great success in describing this enchanting glen, and a Mr. J. Edwards, of Derby, has made it the subject of an elaborate poem, called the "Tour of the Dove." On retracing our steps and reaching the foot of Thorp Cloud we crossed the stream and passing over two fields came to the "Izaak Walton," a very nice convenient Inn to all who visit Dovedale. After a hasty repast we proceeded to Ilam Hall, the beautiful seat of Jesse Watts Russell, Esq., which is but a short distance from the Inn.

ILAM.

The house, erected a few years ago, is a castellated