the neighbourhood of Dretegl are only birds of passage; but at Mostar they amount to about 300. They are more numerous in some parts of Dalmatia, particularly about Verlicca and Sign.

On leaving Dretegl, the road crosses a projecting corner of the hills; from which is a good view of the town of Pógitel *, on the opposite bank, in a picturesque and singular position. It has been a fortified place from very early times, and the post of governor is always held by some distinguished person. It stands in a semicircular recess, like an immense shell, in the side of the hill; and at the two projecting extremities, the walls run down from the summit to the river; the upper part being enclosed by a semicircular wall, terminated at each end by a tower.

The houses are perched at different stages within the rocky ascent, from the water's edge upwards; and near the centre of the lower part is a mosk, with a dome and elegant minaret, and a dark cypress before it; objects which contribute so much to the beauty of Turkish towns. Pógitel has also a clock tower, a building met with at Mostar, and other towns of Herzegóvina; for which the Turks are probably indebted to their Christian predecessors; and, what is more singular, the clock strikes the hours, despite the Moslem prejudice, that "bells drive away good spirits from the abodes of men."

* Pógitegl, or Pozsitegl, sometimes written Pocitel, and Pojitel.

discovered. There is a tiresome kind of bramble, that grows here, and is found in Dalmatia, Italy, and Sicily, with double thorns set in opposite directions, which pertinaciously lays hold of whatever it reaches. It has a particular attachment to cloth, which it never relinquishes without tearing away a piece; and harder substances are often handled very roughly. With great difficulty we extricated ourselves from this labyrinth of thorns, and emerged into the road all rags and tatters, and, what was worse, the macintosh covers of my baggage were full of holes.

*

We soon afterwards passed some small houses, belonging to Krusevich; part of which lies in the valley below, by the river side. Near them were numerous large tumuli of rough stones, some of great size; and as we proceeded on this mountain road, I observed many more on the distant hills and valleys. The people know nothing about them, and satisfy themselves with the belief, that the stones were accidentally thrown in these large heaps, by persons who happened to pass by; a supposition which would entail on their predecessors a larger amount of travelling, than could be expected from the most itinerant of mankind. I believe them to be of a date anterior even to the

* I mention these, with a view of recommending them to all who wish to be independent of rain; and a sheet or two of the same, to lay on damp ground, and stretch above a bed in a tent, are very convenient.

sculptured tombstones before mentioned, and to have been the usual sepulchres of the country at that period; being found all over Herzegóvina, and in many parts of Dalmatia. And this opinion of their antiquity is confirmed, by finding a stone tomb at Cisla placed upon one of them. They are in different sites; some on the points of hills, some in level plains, and others in hollows; and many are of considerable size.

Near Krusevich are some oaks, and ash, much juniper, and our enemies the brambles in great profusion. The oaks are not large, but those of Ulovo, opposite Gabella, grow to a much greater size. The rocks, as throughout Herzegóvina, are limestone. I must however observe that the Narenta passes over, in one part of its course, or receives a tributary stream which comes from, primitive rocks; as I found rolled stones of red, and grey granite in its bed, at Mostar, Cháplina, and other places.

After a march of four hours from Dretegl, we halted at Bielotich.* The view from this point is extensive; and in the distance are seen the peak of Biocovo, above Macarska, and other Dalmatian mountains.

We soon afterwards joined the high road from

* The word Bielo, "white," often occurs in Slavonic names. Bielotich probably means a "white chicken." Bielopoglie is the "white field," from Pólé, a "field," and Bielograd (or Belgrade) is the "white city.”