146

A LONG DRIVE.-BOUNDARY.

were rattling along the broad street at a furious speed, having traveled this station, twenty-eight versts and a half, in one hour and forty minutes. We stopped at the post-house, where I saw a post marking 2591 versts from St. Petersburg—a moderately long drive. I handed my papers to the smatrical, and walked back a short distance to look at a fine church and a large gastinoi-dvor, or market. Here are very large warehouses, and several establishments for the conveyance of merchandise. Russian brandy is made here, and much commerce is carried on with other parts of Siberia. There are also many large and fine houses, proving the wealth of some of the inhabitants. Altogether it appears to be a town enjoying considerable prosperity.

I returned to the post-station in about twenty minutes; the horses were ready, my papers were handed to me, and I took my seat in the tarantass, when the whip and reins were shaken, and we once more bounded along. At a short distance from Shadrinsk we entered upon a beautiful country-fine pasture-lands, with woods which appeared as if planted by man. We now left the Is

setz at some distance to the south, and continued our drive through this woodland scenery. The next station was a mere village, standing on this woodland plain; here we again changed horses. After driving a few versts we came to the bank of the Issetz, pursued our route along the side of the valley about fifteen versts, then turned into a forest which surrounds the station. Here I drank tea, which I made dinner and supper, to lose as little time as possible. Two meals a day are ample for travelers in this region, and both should consist of tea, with meat or eggs. Spirits are very bad either in hot or cold weather.

After leaving the post-house and crossing a small river, I found that the road again turned toward the Issetz, running for some distance close to the river, now a broad stream gliding smoothly along between willowy banks and through rich pastures. About the middle of the station we crossed the boundary between the governments of Perm and Tobolsk, where I hoped to find greater variety in the scenery; but night came on fast, rendering every object indistinct and gloomy, during which we traveled over one hundred and thirty versts, crossing the Issetz in the dusk, and the Tobol just as day was breaking.

Leaving Iloutrovsky about twenty versts to the north, as the

CONVICTS.-BARRACKS.

147

morning advanced we were on the Steppes of Ischim, a very uninteresting tract of country lying between the rivers Tobol and Ischim. There are many lakes in this district, and in some places pine woods on the small sandy elevations, which can scarcely be called hills; in other parts good pasturage is found for the cattle.

About two o'clock this morning we came up to a large party of convicts marching into Eastern Siberia: these unfortunates have a long journey before them. There were ninety-seven in the gang; seventeen men and three women in chains led the van, destined for Nertchinsk, and have yet to march more than four thousand versts. It will take eight months before they reach their place of banishment: they were a most desperate-looking set. The others followed in pairs, on their way to the government of Irkoutsk: they have a journey of three thousand versts to go, and theirs will be a march of six months. Behind them followed telagas with baggage, and there were eleven women riding: some of these poor creatures were following their husbands into exile. In front and on each side were mounted Cossacks, who kept a strict guard over their prisoners.

Barracks are built at each station, usually outside the village. The front buildings are occupied by the officers, guards, and other persons employed: from each end extends a high stockade to the distance of about forty to fifty feet, which returns at right angles, and extends about sixty feet; it is then carried along the back, and thus incloses an area of two hundred feet by sixty; in the middle of this space are the buildings for the prisoners. The stockade is formed of trunks of trees twelve inches in diameter, standing fifteen feet above the ground, and cut to a sharp point on the top; placed close together, they form a barrier which the prisoners can not scale. Besides this, they are well guarded. They march two days and rest one; the distance varies: on some days they make twenty versts, on others twenty-five, and a few stations twenty-eight. A gang leaves Ekaterineburg every Monday morning. That there are among these convicts many dreadfully bad men no one can doubt, but there are also not a few who have been driven by cruel treatment to rebel against their brutal masters, some of whom use them worse than dogs. A word, or a blow in return for the lashes they have endured, may have been the cause of their exile. This is not mere speculation, for it has often happened.

148

EXTORTION.-ANCIENT TUMULI.

Having gone over a most monotonous country for many stątions, we arrived at Bezroukova: the road passes within about twelve versts of Ischim, and then turns to the eastward. As we traveled along I could see the church and some other large buildings rising above the plain, which is named the Steppe of Ischim, a continuation of the Kirghis Steppe. In some parts it is sandy and sterile, with a number of salt-lakes extending far toward the south. We were now only about one hundred and sixty versts from Petropavlovsky, the great mart for Asiatic produce and Kirghis cattle: it is visited by several caravans from Tashkend in the summer to exchange such merchandise as they carry for Russian produce. This town is on the present frontier of the Kirghis Steppe, which is guarded by a line of forts and Cossack posts. We now wended our way along sandy roads to the bank of the River Ischim, which runs in a very deep bed, and crossed the stream near Abatzkoï by a ferry. At Kroutoia we passed near a large lake; indeed, the whole of this country around has a particularly aguish aspect, and is deemed very unhealthy. Forty versts farther we passed through Toukalinsk, a small town containing many good houses. Some of the people are said to be wealthy, which they ought to be if they do much business, for I found it necessary to get some small change for silver ruble notes, and was obliged to pay twenty per cent to procure it. At the post-stations you can seldom induce the yemtschicks to give such money, and, to avoid being imposed upon, it is absolutely necessary to carry a bag of small silver coin.

After leaving Toukalinsk and reaching Beokichevo station, we turned to the northeast, toward the valley of the Irtisch. On approaching this river the country improves, the sandy plain having given place to good pastures amid woods of birch and poplar. My first view of the Irtisch was from some high ground a little after daybreak, when I beheld the river winding its course through the valley. Near this place are many large tumuli covering up the ashes of ancient heroes who have passed over these scenes ages ago. Whether these indicate battle-fields, or the burial-places of a tribe or a nation, it is impossible to say. They are almost invariably placed on high land near the great rivers, and command views over the whole country.

About ten o'clock we reached the station "Tchernoï Ozernaia,"

ter.

SEREBRENAIA.-PONSTINK.-A STORM.

149

or black lake, and then crossed the broad valley of the Irtisch, where the river runs at the foot of the high bank, which on the eastern side at this point rises more than 100 feet above the waAll these rivers have cut a broad and deep channel into the great plains, in some places ten, twelve, and as much as fifteen versts in width, leading to the belief that in former ages a mighty flood swept along, filling this valley from bank to bank. If so, its sources are dried up, and in comparison it has now become a very insignificant stream, although at this place more than three times the width of the Thames at London. This broad valley is covered with fine pastures, where hundreds of cattle feed near to the villages on its banks. There are large wooded patches in many parts; and in May, June, and July, when the water comes from the mountains, it spreads over the entire width, making these clumps of trees appear like islands dotted over a lake. I have crossed this river when it was ten versts broad.

We are now at Serebrenaia, safely across the Irtisch. The station is clean and comfortable. From hence the route is along the eastern bank of the Irtisch for a distance of forty versts, which af forded me several fine views of the twisting and winding of the broad river as it flows on its course.

east.

At Ponstink station the road leaves the river, turning to the Here appears a plain, extending farther than the eye can reach, apparently covered with timber. Just at nightfall we passed two obelisks, marking the boundary of the governments of Tobolsk and Tomsk.

CHAPTER XI.

APPROACH TO THE ALTAI RANGE.

THE sun set, leaving a stormy twilight, which ended in drizzling rain; later in the evening we had several heavy claps of thunder; after this the rain poured down, and the night became very dark. This checked our speed, and made the driver cautious, as we frequently had deep morasses on the sides of the road. The lightning continued to flash, lighting up the lakes near us, and the thunder rolled till its echoes were lost in the plain. Even

a rainy night must terminate, and a little before daybreak the last crash of thunder rolled heavily, the clouds gradually cleared off, and I saw signs of a bright morning. So soon as the storm ceased I slept, and only awoke when the horses stopped at Touroumova station. It was not yet daylight, and I was detained some time before the horses were yoked; this induced me to jump out and hasten the proceedings. I perceived, before stepping into the tarantass, that there was something the matter with my servant: he looked unusually pale. At last he informed me that we had three stations to travel over on which robberies were constantly being committed, adding his opinion that it would be better to wait at the station till daylight, as many convicts had escaped and were now in the woods. Two or three days before, he assured me, they had robbed a carriage during daylight in a woody part of the steppe, a few versts farther on. I called to the yemtschick to stop, when the face of my man brightened up. I was certain, by the tone of his voice, that he thought we were going back; but when he heard me order the head of the tarantass to be let down, there was a very perceptible change in his aspect. I laid hold of the spring on one side, and made him push at the other, when down went the top; the moment this was done, I called out to the yemtschick, "Pashol carashinka" (Drive on fast), and away he went. We were sitting with our heads high above the carriage, which enabled me to keep a good look-out on all sides; I drew my pistols from the holsters, examined the caps, and laid them on my lap, determined neither to be stopped nor robbed with impunity.

Before leaving Ekaterineburg, I had, at his own request, bought my man a double-barreled pistol, with eleven-inch rifle barrels—a deadly weapon if well used. I now put fresh caps on the nipples, and told him to take good aim at any rascal who should attempt to stop us on his side; I, however, discovered that he had no nerve for any such encounter; indeed, I believe at the sight of a stray pedestrian he would have been ready to drop his weapon, and gladly surrender the carriage and its contents to sccure his own safety. The yemtschick kept his horses at full gallop all through the wood: this he thought the best course, as it would be very difficult for robbers to stop us unless they could strike down or shoot one of the horses as we passed, in which case we should have to