NIGHT RIDE.-KOCH-BOUCHTA.

221

has been blown into heaps by the wind, and forms many small mounds reaching far into the steppe.

Although disappointed with this visit, I felt a great desire to explore the country to the east of Nor-Zaisan. I could see the misty outlines of mountains, but at a very great distance, besides which I was determined to follow the Irtisch to its source. This river is the principal supply and only outlet of Nor-Zaisan. It was far too late to think of visiting the Tchornie-Irtisch this year, nor could it possibly be done from this place. Under these circumstances, desiring to retrace my steps to Koch-bouchta without delay, we rode back to Kliee, the aoul of my host, and started on our return after drinking tea. He sent eleven of his own Kirghis to accompany me to the next aoul, supposed to be about thirty versts to the westward. We were undoubtedly a wild-looking band, consisting of nineteen men and twenty-seven horses. As night was drawing in fast, and the aoul very distant, my new escort went off at a gallop, which we kept up over steppe and rough ground for an hour, when it became quite dark. After this our speed was slower, nor was there any certainty when or where we should find an encampment. Two or three Kirghis rode off to some distance on each side of our route to look out for either a light, or some other indication which might guide us to a yourt. Having ridden more than an hour in this way, the party who had been out on our right came in, and said there was an aoul in that direction not far off. A Kirghis was sent to recall the other men, when we turned toward the encampment, crossing some rising ground, and shortly were greeted by the barking and growling of many dogs as we rode up to the yourts. It was now about nine o'clock; and a Kirghis yourt is never lighted up at night excepting by a small fire in the middle, which makes only a reddish glare, as the camel's dung does not blaze. A few minutes sufficed to spread the carpets and roll ourselves up for the night.

We left this encampment soon after daylight in the morning, and in little more than an hour came upon our old track, followed it, and just at dark rode into Koch-bouchta, my host delighted to see me return safe and well. Tea and various good things were soon placed on the table, which, after so long a ride, were most acceptable, and several of the Cossack officers came in to spend the evening. Wodky and other drinkables were produced. My Cos

222

SONGS.-ECLIPSE OF THE SUN.-DENSE FOG.

sack friends sang Russian songs, and I made an attempt at some English ones. Thus we passed a very agreeable evening on the frontiers of his celestial majesty's empire.

A little after dark on the evening of the seventh day after leaving my friend at his gold mine, his dogs gave notice of my return. I was hailed with delight, and we spent several hours very pleasantly in his little room. He presented me with one of his beautiful dogs, long afterward a faithful companion and an excellent guardian during my sojourn in Chinese Tartary.

CHAPTER XVI.

AMONG THE KIRGHIS.

TO-DAY, Saturday, the 9th of October, New Style, there was a beautiful eclipse of the sun, commencing at eight minutes to twelve, and ending at six minutes past four. I watched this with much interest as we rode over the steppe, knowing it would be visible in Europe. The country over which we passed was not particularly interesting low hills running down into the steppe, with numerous small valleys, in all of which my companions told me there was gold. We passed large flocks of wild turkeys; but they are very difficult of approach, even to within rifle-range. Night had now come on, and we were still far from the mine. It was not till two hours after dark that we saw the light, and shortly after entered the little dwelling. The lady of my host received me kindly, and I found her a very pleasant companion. Both host and hostess did every thing they could to make me feel at home, and it was exceedingly agreeable to me that I could now converse with them in German without an interpreter. We supped most sumptuously; then I slept in a comfortable and warm

room.

Sunday morning broke with a fog so dense that it was impossible to see any object ten paces distant; nothing could be done outside; even the gold-washing was stopped. I spent the forenoon very pleasantly with the baron and his doctor, an intelligent man, from whom I collected much information about the country. He had been the medical officer at one of the Cossack fortresses

KIRGHIS ROBBER.-DOGS.-GOLD-WASHERS.

223 in the little horde of Kirghis, and a conversation I had with these gentlemen decided me to travel through the different hordes in the steppe.

The baron informed me that the Kirghis inhabiting the steppe around here and to the westward are great robbers, continually making barantas; that only eight days since they had robbed two Cossacks, who carried his bags with all the letters, and seven hundred rubles in gold and silver-a little more than a hundred pounds-stripping the men of their arms and every thing they possessed. This was done in the daytime, in a mountain pass not far distant. The Cossacks were surrounded in a moment by fifteen Kirghis: one fired his pistols, but without effect, and they were instantly secured, the two men having no chance against this gang of banditti. While we were sitting at dinner, five Cossacks arrived, bringing with them one of the gang whom they had taken : he was a strong, hardy-looking scoundrel, not likely to stand upon trifles when out on a plundering expedition. Having been told that a man had recognized him, he replied that he would not do so next time his meaning was fully understood by those who saw and heard him.

Again it was wet, with a cold, cutting wind blowing direct from the northeast and across the snowy summits of the Altai: this was likely to be another day spent in-doors; but the weather having cleared up in the afternoon, I sketched the gold mine. Another Kirghis dog was presented to me by my host, belonging to one of the best breeds in the steppe; two horses had been given in exchange for him: his name in Kirghis is "Mitaban” (elastic sole); my other dog's name is "Iattier" (one that can catch). They are a beautiful pair. I was assured that Mitaban had run down and killed not less than thirteen foxes this summer.

The ground was hard-bound with a strong frost this morning, a proof that winter was near. After breakfast I made a sketch of the valley about two versts from the mine. This was a very busy scene: the gold-washing was finished for the year, and the men paid off, great numbers of whom are Kirghis. Their yourts were placed in the valley, wherever fancy dictated; some in snug, warm corners under the rocks, others in the grassy slopes, and some even on the hills. Horses and camels were standing in small groups, the men were busy packing up their goods and chattels, and the

224

GALE.-WILD GOATS.-VALLEY OF THE ISILKSOU.

women had begun dismantling their voilock dwellings. In less than two hours the camels were loaded with all the wealth of this people, and the women had mounted, and were leading off their patient hump-backed companions. The men had secured their hardearned money in sashes tied fast round their waists; the keen edges of their battle-axes were examined; the thongs tried, to see if they fitted their wrists, and then they mounted and rode away. A few put their horses into a gallop, uttered loud shouts, and brandished their battle-axes in defiance of the banditti they supposed to be lying in ambush to plunder them of all they possess. Most of these men succeeded in carrying off a small quantity of gold besides their pay. Their precautions were, on this occasion, quite necessary, for it was well known that a large band of plunderers were on the look-out for them. They mustered eighty-three men ; still, they might be met by three times that number of spoilers. This evening we had a fearful gale, with rain and sleet, rendering it impossible to see twenty paces.

A fine calm morning followed the stormy night, which induced me to start on a sketching expedition. The valley of the Isilksou had been mentioned as very beautiful; I proposed going, when the baron ordered two good horses to be saddled, and a Kirghis to guide me across the country about two hours' ride. We left the gold mine before nine o'clock, riding in a northwesterly direction over low hills, and frequently passing large masses of quartz. At about a verst distant to the west some rocky peaks rose up: my man turned in this direction, and pointed out a herd of wild goats feeding among the crags. We rode on toward some rocks, under the shelter of which I hoped to approach near enough for a shot. I dismounted, and scrambled from rock to rock for some time, and then had the satisfaction of seeing them look out for me from the crags half a verst away, the valley of the Isilksou being immediately beneath. These rocks form its rugged sides; in many parts are precipices five or six hundred feet high; in other places ravines ran up into the mountain on which we were standing. The valley was about two versts broad, with the River Isilksou winding through the middle, twisting and writhing about like the folds of some huge serpent.

On the opposite side the rocks rose in dark masses, higher and more picturesque. I mounted my horse, and rode toward the

DESCENT OF A RAVINE.-MAGNIFICENT SCENE.

225 west, to seek out a ravine by which we could descend to the river. At last we found a track made by the goats and other animals on their descent for water. I turned to go down the ravine, but to this the Kirghis made many objections, and stopped his horse. Thinking he supposed it impossible to reach the valley this way, though the track seemed good, I continued to descend without any great difficulty, calling loudly to the man as I went on. At last

I came to a part down which it was impossible to ride; I dismounted: this obliged me to lead my horse along a very stony path and across the ravine. Just at this moment the Kirghis appeared, calling out-I supposed wishing me to return. I could see no farther difficulties, and went on. When I reached the bottom of the ravine, on looking round, I observed the Kirghis slowly descending from this place. The valley was beautiful, but it was much more so from the opposite side; this decided my movements, and I rode off over a fine grassy turf, crossing the plain toward the river. The man came up to me at a gallop, still talking in Kirghis, which I did not understand. I put my horse into a sharp trot, and soon reached the river, which was flowing fast over a rocky bed; but it was not deep, nor more than fifty yards wide. We crossed, and presently reached the precipices, which were split and riven into exceedingly picturesque crags, with scarcely any herbage upon them. They were of a dark purple color, almost black; some were basaltic; in other places there were thick veins of quartz intersecting them.

I turned to the eastward, and rode to some Kirghis tombs, from which I got an excellent view of the valley, which I sketched. This was a most romantic and beautiful spot, and I deeply regretted that the lateness of the season prevented my spending several days among these picturesque scenes. Whatever had been the object the Kirghis had in view, he was now quiet, and watched my proceedings with evident interest. It was only when I began to ride farther down the river that he again objected, and pointed to the other side of the valley, apparently to tell me the scenery was better there. Not far to the east I saw some grand groups of rock, and rode on toward them, when I came upon a magnificent scene. A huge mass of dark basalt rose near a thousand feet above the valley. I dismounted, and climbed up great rocks of red jasper, rising fifty or sixty feet above. On reaching Р