cleared the yourt of all but the chief and his family. Voilocks had been spread for me where I had been sitting, on which I lay down, wrapped up in a fur, and was soon snug and warm. The yourt was about twenty-five feet in diameter, and ten feet high in the centre. Close to where I slept were several rich carpets rolled up, and four or five boxes containing all the old man's wealth. On the other side of these valuables my host and his wife slept, and near them three children. My Cossack from Siberia, and the one who had command of my escort, spread voilocks and slept in this yourt. I do not know whether this was matter of precaution on my account, but it was always done.

Horses were brought to the yourt at daybreak. After a bathe in the lake I sat down to breakfast, when the Cossack brought me some broiled lamb, one having already been killed and nearly cooked in the iron caldron for the morning meal. My servant came into the yourt, looking miserable; I fancied the idea of a day's hard riding was the cause, but it was not. He had heard the Kirghis relating stories of the robbers on the previous night, which the Cossacks translated into Russian, and this had frightened him. When I said that he should return to Oust-Kamenogorsk with the horses, and wait for me there, the effect was wonderful; in ten minutes he was actively engaged in packing my things, and telling the Cossack what he would have to do for me. My delight at sending him back almost equaled his own, seeing how much he dreaded going among the Kirghis.

On the opposite page is a view of the Arkat Mountains—an inconsiderable chain, which stretches across the steppe: these peaks are bare granite, and exceedingly picturesque. Near them are many salt lakes fringed with the salsola, with its deep crimson color, which produces a splendid effect. There are Kirghis yourts in the foreground, and the small earth pyramids mark the road to the Cossack pickets.

238

DEPARTURE.-BARREN PLACE.-SKETCHING.

CHAPTER XVII.

ADVENTURES IN THE STEPPE.

THE old chief ordered two of his Kirghis to accompany me and bring back the horses. It was necessary to be fully prepared for a hard gallop, which induced the Cossacks to pack my small quantity of baggage into leathern bags, always used by the Kirghis, and to take two extra horses to carry them. They would then have very light loads, and be able to travel at a gallop when necessary. This being accomplished, we left the old chief and rode away, directing our course to the southwest. The morning was calm and beautiful, more like a summer's day than one so late in the autumn; but there was nothing to interest me on this vast steppe, the herbage having been eaten up, and flowers there were none. After riding several hours, we came upon a part almost destitute of vegetation, the whole surface a coarse reddish gravel, with a few rounded blocks of stone of small dimensions. A little to the left of our route, and apparently about ten versts distant, we saw an encampment.. The two Kirghis said we must go there, as we should not find another before reaching the Monastery Mountains. Our horses were turned toward it, and we galloped on, as I was anxious to reach this aoul as early as possible, and get nearer the mountains. Before noon the horses were changed, and while this was being done I made a sketch, looking toward the Chinese frontier on the Irtisch, the scenery in this region being extremely pretty. Having finished, we started on again with two Kirghis, and horses for the baggage. Riding fast over the steppe for an hour and a half, we arrived at a place which afforded me a capital view of the Monastery Mountains; having finished a drawing of this, we rode on again, seeking the aoul of Mahomed, a celebrated chief, reputed very wealthy. The Kirghis said we should find him near the Mantilla Rocks, which they pointed out far away to the south. Judging by the misty tone of their color, I was certain that they were thirty versts distant at least; but it re

KIRGHIS GROUP.-AN EXAMINATION.

239

quires considerable experience before the eye can measure with any degree of accuracy the distances on these boundless steppes. Unless we pushed on very fast, there was every probability of our

We had

being obliged to sleep on the steppe without shelter. good horses, and the Kirghis were equally anxious with ourselves to reach the aoul; they therefore secured the bags on the horses to prevent their shaking, and then away we went, galloping over the smooth plain straight toward the misty mass.

For more than an hour we had gone on looking to the right and left, but not one living object had been seen, nor was there any great change in the appearance of the Mantilla Rocks to indicate that we were much nearer. Having reached the edge of a slight depression or a very broad undulation, we stopped to examine the country over which we had to ride, but neither camels, horses, nor yourts could be seen. The sun was sinking fast; in an hour he would be below the ridges to the west; there was no time to be lost, as a starlight ride in this region was somewhat dangerous-at least our Kirghis thought so, and they did not spare their horses. After crossing the depression in the steppe we were once again on the elevated ground, and stood some minutes gazing over the country, when the Cossacks and Kirghis declared no cattle or yourts could be seen. I thought otherwise, and pointed to a dark mass descending the slightly elevated plain

240

HERD OF CAMELS.-DOGS.-MAHOMED.

toward the Mantilla Rocks; but not one of them could see it; nevertheless, I was certain it was a herd of horses being driven toward the aoul. This was not the first time I had discovered objects far beyond the range of vision of many other persons. The Cossacks and Kirghis had no hope; however, half an hour's hard riding convinced them I was right; they could now see that such an object was there, and that the mass was moving toward us. The Kirghis understood the matter at once, and turned to the southeast.

We had not ridden more than five or six versts when we reached another of these broad depressions. From this bank of four or five versts we saw a large aoul on the shore of a small lake, with great herds of horses and camels going slowly toward it. This was a delightful sight to us, as we rode our horses down the bank, and were very soon passing through an immense herd of camels, being driven in from several different points; great numbers of sheep we could see already around the encampment. As we rode along the Kirghis eyed us keenly, no doubt wondering who and what we were. A Cossack had been sent on to announce our coming to the chief. Approaching nearer, the dogs began to greet us with a very loud barking; they were a pack of savagelooking rascals, who would bite as well as bark when the opportunity served. They kept close in attendance with their music till we nearly reached the aoul, and were only induced to retreat by the whips of the Kirghis, who had ridden out to meet us. They led me up to a large yourt, at the door of which a long spear, with a tuft of black horsehair on it, was standing. A fine old man took hold of the reins of my bridle, and gave me his hand to dismount; to refuse his assistance would have been an insult. He then conducted me into his yourt, a beautiful Bokharian carpet was spread, on which he placed me, seating himself on the voilock near. I invited him to a seat on his own carpet, which afforded evident satisfaction to all those assembled in the yourt.

This was Mahomed, and the three Kirghis who had met us were his sons; they were seated near to us. My arms were matter of great interest to them when a Cossack brought my saddle into the yourt and took the pistols out of the holsters. The old man and his sons being anxious to examine them, I removed the caps to prevent any accident, and they were scrutinized with in