toward the Kamga the cliffs are limestone, in which is a large cave, and not far distant there is a noble waterfall on the River Karbou, about five hundred paces from the lake. The scenery on all the streams which fall into the Altin-Kool is very fine; on some it is exceedingly wild and grand. We continued our voyage toward the Kamga, which enabled me to obtain views of the high chain to the eastward; after which we crossed the lake, and proceeded along the north side about a verst from the shore. The attention of the Kalmucks was suddenly attracted by a sound in the mountains, which caused them to rest for a minute, when one of them gave orders to make for the shore. The canoes were instantly turned, and the men pulled for the land with all their might.

The lake was perfectly calm, but these mountaineers knew that a storm was coming, and it was evident that they were exceedingly anxious. Our little boats were pulled along at a great speed toward a bay where there was a sandy shore, our only place of refuge. We were within a hundred yards of the beach when we heard the wind sweeping over the lake with a fearful sound. Looking out in the direction of the noise, I saw a streak of white foam coming toward us like a race-horse, and felt that if we were caught in this blast we were doomed; a few minutes more, and we should be safe. At last we touched the sand; to leap out was the work of a moment; simultaneously we seized the canoe, and ran with it

up

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the beach; the other two crews performed the same operation. Now the gale swept past in its terrible fury, and a wave came dashing on to the strand four or five feet deep. Two of the canoes, being a little behind, were not out of reach of the wave as it rolled in, and were filled in a moment; the men, however, held on, and the boats were soon pulled out of danger.

We sought shelter in the forest under several large cedars, and while some of my companions brought our baggage, others began preparing a balagan as a protection against the storm. Just at this moment came a vivid flash, followed by a terrific crash of thunder, which appeared to shake the solid earth. The roaring of the wind and waves, and the heavy roll of the thunder, were appalling. It soon became a perfect hurricane; the tops of the waves were blown off as they rose, and the lake was covered as if with a sheet of snow. Had we gone even one hundred yards farther before turning toward the shore, we should never have been heard of again. Beyond this little bay there was not a spot on which we could land for fifteen versts. The perpendicularity of the shores and frequent storms render the navigation of this lake extremely dangerous, the more especially in a craft in which many persons would hesitate to cross the Thames.

Each canoe is cut out of the trunk of a tree; ours were made of poplar, which grows in some of these regions to a large size. Though the wood is very soft, it is a work of great labor for the Kalmucks with their implements. The sides are cut down to about three quarters of an inch thick, and the bottom is near double the substance, which is usually made flat and without a keel.

The storm continued until near evening and then cleared off. The Kalmucks proposed, although late, that we should take advantage of the calm and get out of the great basin, expressing their conviction that we should be detained in the morning, as the weather was breaking, and storms would now be frequent. I had already sufficient proof of their knowledge to induce me to adopt their suggestion; therefore the order was given to pack the baggage, and in a quarter of an hour we were on our way to seek another lodging. It was more than two hours before we turned the rocky point at the entrance of the smaller part of the lake. Even before doing so the rain began to pour down, and night came on

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BEAUTIFUL SPOT.-KOLYVAN.-FINE ART.

apace, yet no place could be found where we could land and place our boats in safety. Nor was it until some time after dark that we discovered a favorable spot, and then we had to encamp "in thunder, lightning, and in rain," which continued nearly through the night. The following afternoon we reached our first encampment, near the outlet into the Bea, whence we started on our voyage round this lake, decidedly one of the most beautiful spots in the world.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE CHAINS OF THE ALTAI.

I NOW determined to visit the source of the Katounaia, though several of my Siberian friends considered it would be impossible to reach Bielouka with its glaciers at this season of the year, the winter commencing very early in this high region. During my journey I had collected jaspers and porphyries of great beauty, also several specimens of quartz and aventurine; and Kolyvan polishing works lying in my route, some of these I gave to be cut. The works here are not so extensive as those in Ekaterineburg, nor do they cut any of the precious stones. The articles made are often on a gigantic scale; and a walk through the Hermitage in St. Petersburg will sufficiently prove to every one the beauty and grandeur of the different vases, columns, and pedestals produced in this far-off region, where Europeans generally consider there is nothing but barbarism.

At the time of my visit there were about one hundred and twenty workmen employed in this Zavod. Many were engaged in cutting dark purple jasper columns fourteen feet in height; others were at work on vases of dark green jasper; both the design and material were exceedingly beautiful, and in some the foliage was equal to any I have ever seen, either ancient or modern. Were these artists free to exercise their talent for their own benefit, this wild region would soon produce men that Russia might be proud of; but the poor fellows are made to work for two shillings and ninepence and three shillings and eightpence a month. Let us hope that his imperial majesty will give these deserving

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319

men their freedom, and with it the privilege of putting a waterwheel on the stream which furnishes the moving power to the imperial works. Were this accorded to them, three or four artificers would join and erect a small wooden building and water-wheel, by which means they would be able to execute works of moderate dimensions, and find a ready sale at remunerative prices. The mass of materials on which they employ their talent is so enormous in the Altai that it will not be exhausted for ages to come.

From Kolyvan my road lay to the southeast. The director gave me his tarantass, in which I could travel about one hundred and thirty versts to a village on the River Tchurish, and at three o'clock we started with five horses over a hilly country. The first fifteen versts were uninteresting-rounded hills, with very few trees, to break the sameness of the landscape. After this we reached a more elevated part of the country, affording a fine view of the Tigeretzskoï chain. A little before dusk we arrived at a village where horses were ready to take us on. We had high hills to cross, which in some places were steep; this led us on to a plateau, with great blocks of granite standing up along several small ridges. From this spot I had a noble prospect of the Tchurish winding its course in a deep valley in the mountains. About ten versts beyond this point the road falls abruptly into the valley. It was no easy matter to descend: two wheels were locked, and the yemstchick begged me to walk down, he being afraid of his horses bolting. Night was fast covering hill and valley in gloom, which gave to many of the objects a mysterious aspect. Having, however, reached the valley in safety, we sat down in the carriage, and were soon fording the river, the water coming into the tarantass, but without doing us any damage. On reaching the opposite bank we had some difficulty in getting up; but, when once on the road, the men proceeded at a furious speed, regardless either of our necks or their own. The people of the village declared that it was impossible to go on in the dark, and, knowing nothing of the country, I reluctantly passed the night here.

The following morning a dense fog covered up every thing; but I found, on leaving the village, that we ascended rapidly. After about an hour we emerged from the fog into a brilliant sunshine, while all below was hid in a sea of white vapor. Having gained the summit, we had a fine view of the mountain chains to

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RIVER TCHURISH.-PICTURESQUE SCENERY.

the south, among which I wandered in 1847. Many of their forms were familiar to me, so that it was like meeting an old acquaintance. No snow had yet fallen on their summits, which gave me hopes that I might still reach Bielouka. As we passed over the mountain, I saw some basalt columns in a deep ravine beneath. Stopping a few moments on the ridge before we descended, my man pointed out the River Tchurish in a deep narrow valley to the east, into which we were about to descend. From this point we had a fine prospect of the south part of the Cholsoun chain, with its high crags and snowy peaks glittering in the sun; other summits, still farther to the south, near the source of the Bouchtarma, could scarcely be distinguished from the clouds. The road down to the valley of the Tchurish was steep, and the country to the south well wooded with pine and birch trees. Our speed was a full gallop down a straight road for some five or six versts, when we turned suddenly round, forded a rapid stream, and in ten minutes were in the village. As my friend's tarantass was to stop here, horses were soon saddled, and a party of four men ready to accompany me to the next village, twenty-five versts distant.

The sun was sinking fast when we mounted and rode away. About two versts from the village we came to the Tchurish, a broad and rapid stream, which we must ford. One of the men rode in, I followed, the others came after us. The water was both deep and cold, but all passed in safety, when our horses were put into a sharp trot to enable us to reach Korgon before dark. The road was along the east bank of the river, close under the high granite cliffs, which rise in many parts from two to three hundred feet. In many places the scenery was very picturesque, and reminded me of some parts of the River Tom. Several deep ravines ran up into the mountains, down which small streams fretted and foamed over their rocky beds. We had a rough ride, and arrived at the village at dark. A boat was sent over to take us across, but our horses had to swim. The Startioner had been apprised of my visit, and was waiting to conduct me to his house. My horse was over in a few minutes, when I mounted and accompanied my host to his home, and this was to be my restingplace for the night. I was scarcely seated when the good man presented me with a plate of delicious honey, fresh from the hive.

It was seven o'clock in the morning before the men and horses