MOUNTAIN GORGE.-FORD THE RIVER.

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Over this we had to find our way, and many a weary verst we traveled. At length we were stopped by a deep mountain gorge, into which we descended with very great difficulty. There we found a torrent issuing from beneath ice and snow, and not far from this there was a hot spring bubbling up into a basin formed in the granite rocks. This was, indeed, a scene of desolation, for, as the sun never penetrates this chasm, there was not a blade of grass or a sprig of moss on the spot.

CHAPTER XXIII.

ASCENT OF THE BIELOUKA.

THE latter part of the night had been extremely cold, and the grass was now covered with a thick white frost, which made every thing look winterly. Before the sun's rays reached into the valley, we mounted and continued our journey down the bank of the Tourgan. This little river runs in a rocky bed, leaping and foaming in innumerable cascades. After riding about three versts, and making several vain attempts to ford, we succeeded. There is nothing either fine or picturesque in this valley, as the mountain slopes are gradual and unbroken. We had not gone far after crossing the stream when we came to a point which afforded us a peep at the mountains on the south side of the Katounaia, and the snowy peaks beyond. By this time the sun was sufficiently high to shine upon this valley in his full splendor, and the change was exceedingly agreeable in temperature-it was, in the space of a few minutes, from winter to summer. As we descended the valley the slate rocks began to appear, rising from fifty to one hundred feet above the green sward over which we were riding. Presently the river made a turn and flowed close at their base. Yepta, the Kalmuck, said that this was the only place at which we could ford the rapid stream, and here it was very difficult. We stood on the high bank a few minutes, and surveyed the boiling and rushing water beneath, while immediately above were a succession of small falls, varying from six to ten feet in height. At the bottom of the last there was a rapid extending about twenty paces down the river; then came another fall of greater depth; after

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DANGEROUS PASSAGE.-ANECDOTE.

which the torrent rushes onward over large stones until it joins the Katounaia. Across this rapid, between the falls, we had to make our passage, not one at a time, but five abreast, otherwise we should be swept away. As we could only descend the rocky bank in single file, and scarcely find room at the bottom for our horses to stand upon, it was no easy matter to form our party before plunging into the foaming water. Yepta was the first to descend; I followed; then came three others, with two led horses. To go straight across was impossible; we could only land on some shelving rocks a few paces above the lower fall. The brave Yepta gave the word, and we rode into the rushing water knee to knee. Our horses walked slowly and steadily on as the water dashed up their sides; instinct making them aware of the danger, they kept their heads straight across the stream. The distance we forded was not more than twenty paces, but we were at least five minutes doing it, and it was with no small satisfaction that we found ourselves standing on the rocks, some twenty feet above the water, wishing as safe a passage to our friends. When I saw them drawn up on the little bank, and then dash into the stream, I felt the danger of their position more than when crossing myself. Their horses breasted the torrent bravely, and all were safely landed; the dog was placed on one of the pack-horses, where he lay between the bags in perfect security. I am certain that every man felt a relief when the enterprise was accomplished, which would have been impossible had the water been three inches deeper.

While engaged sketching this dangerous spot, the hunter related to me the following anecdote, which gave a tragical character to the scene: I mentioned before that the Chinese had a picket near the Kara-goll, and it was by this route the soldiers came to relieve their companions and bring their provisions. On one occasion a party of sixteen men arrived here on their way to join their comrades at the Kara-goll. Six rode in abreast, but had only gone three or four paces when they found the water unusually deep, and the torrent swept them down. In a few moments five of them went over the fall; one man threw his long rein toward his comrades on the bank, which was caught, and by this means both man and horse were saved. The other poor fellows and their horses were dashed against the rocks and killed almost immediately; nor was there a single body of either found.

RIVER KATOUNAIA.-BIELOUKA.

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Continuing my ride down the valley, in about two hours I reached the River Katounaia, running in a valley about a verst broad, and covered with a rich grassy sward. Fine clumps of birches and pines are scattered about, while the lower parts of the mountains on either side are covered with a thick forest of picta and cedars. Some of these summits are bare rocks, and others reach far up into the snowy region. Our track was now up the banks of the river, and in about two hours we reached the Tourgan, which has its rise in the mountains to the northwest of the Bielouka. The view up this valley is very fine: a broad stream comes dashing over large rocks looking like snow; groups of magnificent cedars are growing on its banks, intermingled with graceful pendent foliage of the birch, colored in rich yellow and orange tints, while the poplar has put on every shade of color, from the most beautiful orange to the deepest crimson. Overtopping these are rocky ridges of brown and purple; the more distant mountains take a more aërial tone; and beyond, the snowy summits of the chain shoot far into the sky, looking like frosted silver against the deep ethereal blue.

Almost immediately after fording the Tourgan we were obliged to ford the Katounaia, high precipices rising from the bed of the river stopping our onward course. This stream was not difficult to cross, although five times as wide as the Tourgan. We pushed on toward a point where the valley makes a turn to the northward, and here I expected that we should obtain a view of the mountain we had traveled so far to see. I was the more anxious, as the sky was without a cloud, a rare occurrence in these regions at this season of the year. Yepta, the hunter, and a Kalmuck, rode on with me at a sharp gallop over very rough ground. Having proceeded about five versts, we reached the bend in the valley, where Bielouka stood before us in all his grandeur. I lost no time in seeking out a good point whence to sketch this monarch of the Altai chain. Adding this to my collection was something important gained, although I felt convinced other views might be met with of greater sublimity. Yepta and two other Kalmucks started with me on a sketching expedition across one of the spurs that run from the Bielouka toward the south. Even the lower part of it was extremely steep, which caused us to make many zigzag windings. When about half way up, we came to a most effectual barrier

344

YEPTA.-VALLEY OF THE BERYL.

perpendicular rocks about a hundred feet high. We now turned toward the east, riding along the foot of these precipices, and shortly arrived at an opening, but so steep that it was doubtful if we could get up on foot. Leaving two Kalumcks with the horses, Yepta and myself started, and shortly discovered that it was al

most impossible to keep our feet; one slip and a roll to the bottom would have been our fate. At last we reached the top, and found ourselves on a plateau rising gently for about half a verst to some rugged crags, crowned with dwarf cedars; beyond these rose the icy summit of Bielouka sparkling in the sun. Turning toward the southeast, we had a fine view looking down into the valley of the Biela, or White Beryl, which has its source among some high peaks of a very picturesque shape. The water in this little river has a most peculiar appearance; looking at it from this distance, it is like milk tinged with green. The rocks on this mountain are slate, of various colors-purple, blue, and light green. I have no doubt the latter gives the tint to the water.

The sky was now without a cloud; every mountain top was clear, and their outlines beautifully defined. While sketching the

BIELOUKA.-SPRING FLOWERS.-MUSQUITOES.

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valley of the Beryl, the two Kalmucks arrived with our horses; they had continued their ride along the foot of the cliffs, and found by ascending one of the ravines that they could reach us on the little plateau. I was glad, as this would enable us to cross the mountain, and return by another route. Having finished my sketch, we rode on toward the cliffs, from which we could look down into the valley of the Katounaia. On gaining the crest we beheld the river running in its deep valley among dark pines, which gave a gloomy aspect to the scene. The sun no longer penetrated into these depths, although he was shining in full splendor on every thing around us. After riding a short distance, I attained a point which afforded me a fine view of Bielouka, a stupendous mass, whose mighty crags protrude through the snow and ice of ages. It has a singular effect when the sunlight falls on the different masses of snow, ice, and rocks. The summit of Bielouka is formed by two enormous peaks, shored up with innumerable buttresses, which form ravines or small valleys, now filled up with glaciers descending to the edge of some fearful precipices, which overhang the valley of the Katounaia.

The whole of the mountains around this giant of the chain seem to be composed of slate; on the lower spurs rich short grass was growing, which would have made a fine pasture for thousands of sheep. In this grass I found many spring flowers-the red primula, sweet-scented violet, and several sorts of anemones. Theirs will be but a short life, for in ten or twelve days deep snow will cover them for nine or ten months. It is a long winter. Three or four hundred feet higher the herbage had almost ceased; several varieties of mosses cover the stony ground and cling to the rocks. A little higher, and these are lost-long before we reached the top of one of the lower ridges separating the valleys of the Katounaia and Beryl. While sketching even in this high region I was attacked by legions of musquitoes: it is seldom they have any visitors in this region. Having finished my sketches, I was not sorry to move off into a more exposed situation, where the breeze dispersed my tormentors. During the time I had been occupied, Yepta had crossed the ridge, and discovered that it was utterly impossible for us to ascend to the Bielouka in that direction. We rode slowly down the mountain, that in some parts was exceedingly steep; and having gone more to the east, we had a fine view