366 the pelting storm. At length a clump of thick cedars stretched out their branches, protecting us effectually from rain and wind. Here we remained until the telagas came up; then, as my clothing was completely saturated, I deemed it prudent to be again in motion, therefore continued my course, listening to the howling of the wind among the higher branches. Our pace was a sharp trot, and the telagas kept up with us till we reached a torrent at the edge of the forest, over which we rode our horses without much difficulty; but the case was different with the little carriages, as the men had to seek a place where the banks were not so abrupt before they could cross. Here we left them, and proceeded, exposed to the full force' of the storm. After riding a few versts the rain changed into snow, and began falling fast, with a great bouran blowing in our faces, rendering our progress almost impossible.

CROSS A TORRENT.-SNOWSTORM.-HORSE-THIEVES.

In about an hour we entered another forest, which afforded us shelter; and when our companions came galloping up, I ordered the Kalmuck boy into one of the telagas, as I knew it would be impossible to cross the river with the carriages. The peasant and myself left them and rode on, but the storm increased so much that we could scarcely make our horses face the blast.

After riding a few versts the man stated that it was impossible to proceed, turned his horse toward a large clump of trees, and said he would remain. I pushed on, and presently heard him following; in short, he dared not stop so long as I rode on. The snow almost blinded us, and was lying thick on our clothing, creating a chilling sensation whenever our speed was slackened. Our way was down the valley of the Tchurish, at about a verst distant from the river. On both sides of this valley high mountains ascended; those to the south were covered with a dense mass of cedar, while those to the north reared their rugged crests of slate, rendered exceedingly ghost-like by their clothing of pure white. As we were riding along we met a peasant, who inquired if we had seen a party of Kalmucks, five or six in number, that had stolen his horses. He was giving chase to the thieves, but with little chance of success. He told me that it was fifteen versts to the Kaier Koomin. I knew that it was about the same distance thence to the village; but the measure of distance given by a Russian peasant is very doubtful, and I suspected that this one was far from correct.

A NEW "BUMP."-KALMUCKS.

367

My companion had never been in this valley, so that it fell to my lot to be guide; no easy task with six inches of snow on the ground, and all traces of the track obliterated. We were compelled to ride with our heads bent forward, or the snow blinded us as it was swept along by the wind. We were proceeding at a trot, when I received a blow which laid me flat on my horse's back; for a minute or two I could see nothing but sparks gleaming before my eyes; but as soon as vision returned, I recognized my man holding up my hat, and the branch of a tree which had been broken off by a blow that had formed a bump on my forehead phrenologists would have found some difficulty in classifying. This made me keep a sharp look-out for trees ahead. Our progress was now very slow; the horses were floundering in a morass, nor could we tell which way to get out of it. As our route must be onward, turning to the right or left was only loss of time. At length we reached the forest, and got upon hard ground and into calm weather; still, the snow fell fast; but, in comparison, the temperature was like summer, while the trees were so thick we could only hear the blast as it roared over the topmost branches.

We had ridden more than two hours since the man told us it was fifteen versts to the Kaier Koomin. Although I had traveled over this country before, the snow had made such a change that it was impossible to ascertain our position. A little farther on in the forest we came upon two Kalmucks, who had made a fire and sheltered themselves, each having a piece of birch bark on his back toward the wind. We stopped, and my man had some conversation with them, after which he turned to me and said it was an hour's ride to the river, and useless going on, as the Kalmucks had declared that we could not ford the stream, the water being high. He proposed our encamping here for the night; to this I would not consent, and rode on; in a few minutes he followed, and very shortly afterward the two Kalmucks joined. Night was now drawing on apace, and the wind was exceedingly cold, but we pushed on fast toward the river. The Kalmucks were pretty correct in the time it required to ride the distance, and it was quite dusk when we reached the bank. We were now brought to a stand, for the water was much higher than usual. My man turned toward me and said "Plavit nilza" (We can not swim it). I answered him by riding into the stream, when at a few paces from

368

SAFE ARRIVAL.-SNUG QUARTERS.

the bank my horse began to swim; the other three followed, and we were carried two hundred paces farther down the stream than the usual fording-place before we reached the opposite bank, where we all landed safely. My man, wet as he was, avowed his satisfaction by exclaiming "Dobery" (Very good); even the Kalmucks expressed their approval, as they saw neither the weather nor the water deterred me from my object. We soon found the track leading to the village, and I pushed on at a sharp trot, as I began to shiver from the piercing cold, already freezing our clothing.

The snow ceased falling; the moon rose, giving light to our path; but it now became a dreary ride, and our poor horses were tired. Fortunately, I knew my way to the foot-bridge over the Tchurish, which we reached at a very late hour. Leaving our horses in the care of the two Kalmucks, we crossed, and arrived in my old quarters at the merchant's a few minutes before twelve o'clock. I sent for the Startioner, who ordered two men to go and bring our horses and the Kalmucks. I also told him about my companions left behind, when he instantly ordered five men and seven horses to be sent to their assistance. I now asked for some wodky; the merchant brought me a bottle; I drank two wineglasses, and then sent it to the three men, who had got into snug quarters in a warm kitchen. The merchant brought me a kalat, or dressing-gown, and helped to strip off my wet things. My shooting-boots were filled with water from swimming the river, and now it was no easy matter to draw them off; however, after many efforts, I stood without them, and was soon divested of my other garments, sitting like a Kirghis, with only one covering.

One of my companions on a former journey in this region came. to see me, and asked how far we had come; I told him from the River Tschugash; but I saw that neither he nor the merchant believed me, as they declared it to be one hundred and seventy versts -about 114 miles. They went and asked the peasant whence we had traveled; he also told them from the Tschugash. We had been seventeen hours on the road, and about fifteen on horseback, having changed our horses three times. My host now regaled me with tea, and, having taken sufficient to stave off the cold, I lay down on some rugs spread on the floor, and slept soundly till long after the cock had called the peasants to their day's labor.

On opening my eyes I observed that the sun was shining bright

SPLENDID GORGE.-JASPER VASES.

369

ly through the small window, which caused me to leave my hard bed and prepare for another ride. The merchant brought my clothing dry and warm, and I was soon rigged up for the road. My first inquiry was about my companions left behind; but they had not yet arrived; this vexed me, as I was anxious to reach the Korgon without delay. About ten o'clock they rode into the yard, to my great joy. Before midday we started on our ride over the mountains, and in less than two hours came to the gorge of the Korgon. Entering this ravine at the Karaoul there is nothing particularly striking, but after riding five or six versts and turning an angle, the gorge bursts upon the traveler in all its grandeur. The precipices rise up two thousand feet, broken into rugged and picturesque shapes, while the torrent foams and roars beneath. This is, undoubtedly, the finest gorge in the Altai. Jasper of various colors is obtained here in very large masses. I saw the workmen cutting some blocks for columns fourteen feet long; they were obtained from near the summit of one of the highest precipices, and are lowered to the torrent with great difficulty. The labor of cutting out the large blocks of jasper is enormous; the workmen drill holes five inches apart the whole length of the block, and to the depth required; into these they drive dry birch-wood pins, which they keep watering till they swell and burst off the mass.

The workmen are sent to the Korgon from the different Zavods, of which some are as much as six and seven hundred versts distant. They arrive here in May, and remain till the end of September, when they all return to their homes. Small stone huts are built against the precipices at the bottom of the ravine, where they live, stowed away in filth and wretchedness, feeding upon black bread and salt, and receiving their poor pittance of two shillings and ninepence a month. Theirs is, indeed, a hard lot. Several vases from these jaspers were exhibited in the Crystal Palace in 1851, and the workmen are proud of the medal awarded to the works at Kolyvan. It is only in the palaces of St. Petersburg that the magnificent productions from the Korgon can be seen to advantage; there they are to be found in jasper, porphyry, and aventurine. I made several sketches of this mountain gorge, so rich. in its varied rocks.

A A

370

THE COUNTRY OF THE KALKAS.-TCHUCK-A-BOI.

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE COUNTRY OF THE KALKAS-ANCIENT MONGOLIA.

My wanderings now led me to the Gobi, whose vast steppes, sandy deserts, and high mountain chains give a peculiar character to this region. The traveler who attempts to force his way into a land abounding with such striking scenery must be prepared for many difficulties and some risks. Perhaps before my visit these scenes were never looked upon by European eye, nor ever sketched by pencil. He who follows on my track will find that his rifle will be required for more purposes than obtaining a dinner. His courage and determination will be tested by men who seldom show fear, and are ever on the alert. It is only by a steady hand, a quick eye, and skill with his weapon, that he can remain safe from acts of violence. Plunder is the common trade; and, what is still worse, the traveler, if not murdered, is carried off into certain slavery.

My party consisted of three Cossacks-brave and honest fellows, who would have dared any danger. Long may they live, and be happy on their land near Kourt Choum. To these were added seven Kalmucks, four of them strong, sturdy hunters, and all accustomed to a hard mountain life. Powder and lead I had a sufficient store, and we mustered eight rifles. These Kalmucks had their hair cut close, except a tuft growing on the top of the head, plaited into a long tail, which hung far down their back, and gave them a Chinese appearance. They may, in fact, be considered Chinese subjects; but, unfortunately for them, Russia compels them to pay a tax also. The chief of my little band of Kalmucks was named Tchuck-a-boi, and was a very strong and powerful fellow, with a beautiful manly countenance, a fine massive forehead, and large black eyes. He was dressed in a horseskin cloak, fastened round his waist with a broad red scarf. When the weather was warm his arms were drawn from the sleeves, which were then tucked into his girdle, and the cloak hung round him in beautiful